04 gu bus...

[QUOTE=biggqwesty;599274]No offence mate but I hope they do a better install than the pic. That's a hack of an install and heaps of panel removed for no reason.
haha ye il be installing myself...
cheers

Well finally put my rear drawers in..put in my blue leds for dash cluster.. aircon panel etc.. wired up my reverse lights to switch up the front... stil dnt know whats up wiv my high idle but besides that the bus is going alright...

Looking good MH got a dimmer on the gauges,
Is the high idle constant or intermittent
late edit. getting 1.5mm skimmed off the inside of the OE maf housing.
I have most bits to install the new larger intake but the body wont allow me GGGRRrrrrrrrrrr

It idles up once engine warms up... If I clutch it in gear and slowly let the clutch out and have my other foot on the break it wil drop idle back to normal.. Or if u turn the aircon on...So that's what I usually do when I'm sitn at lights etc... Otherwise it free revs anywhere between 1 n 2k... Gauges are Algood at night.. Just looks bright in pic...

Whats next on the to do list ??

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html
MH have a read through this, it might solve your high rev issue

Cheers theeedogs... That was a long but good read...

I havent fitted my 76mm intake yet, Mark has nearly done his.
Im waiting now on a 60 degree bend as I dont think a 45 will work.
I'll also be taking your Maf to a mate on Tues, to see if he can skim a mil or so off it.
Catch can hoses look a trear AN10 braided with black hose clamp ends.
found the high idle problem yet?

With the FBW throttle some here have removed it drilled [very carefully] a small hole in it
and given it a squirt with CRC or similar, with good results.
cant drive a bit harder to iron out that spot where it high idles
if you get what I mean

I've come to believe it might have something to do with the flyby wire... Or tbs..
Good work with your maf/intake setup... I have no doubts it will come out a treat...
Was on the gu face book page and was dumbfounded at the amount of no it alls and misinformed knowledge of patrol/zd30 owners...
One bloke trying to say mpd maf housing gives u less power than standard...
Another saying it will make ur motor and turbo blow up cause of incorrect air fuel ratios...
Upgrading Intercooler pipes are more important than upgrading standard intercooler
Catch cans are just a waste of money
The rear hoop at the back is a recovery point
If you don't have a Dawes and needle valve fitted your car will blow up
Anything over 22 psi your turbo will blow up
500-600 on the pyro is perfectly normal...

Most of us know this is far from the truth...
I've tried to help out fellow patrol owners with answers speaking from experience..
One bloke had constant issues with limp mode and asked how can he fix it.. I told him my experience with my hpd maf sensor housing.. Saying I was running up to 27 psi with no limp mode issues.. And was called a liar.. Lol..
Advised that rear hoop on the rear of the car is a tie down point and should be used as such rather than a recovery point...replied with I've always used it as a recovery point what would I knw.. Haha
Informed the hole in the blanking plate for the egr is for the crds not Di... Again your wrong etc..
Dawes and needle valve allow you to manually set boost pressure and spool up rate.. While this is my understanding.. There were people saying.. There simply used to give u more power... U must fit them cause if u don't your 3l will blow up...if u have Dawes valve u don't need a catchcan... Hmmm?
Advised of how the factory intercooler are prone to leaking.. Then was told there more than efficient and that money is better off upgrading intercooler pipes..hmm lol
The higher boost you run the less efficacy... Not in my exp.. The higher boost/more dense the intake charge the lower your egts...
Your running more than 22psi your turbo is about to explode... While I think high excessive boost can potential put more strain on the turbo... It is not constantly spooling at the higher 27psi rate.. This would be max boost... At 100k it is anywhere between 5-10 psi... The time difrence between 15psi up to 27psi would only be a matter of seconds between gear changes in the higher end of the rev range... I like to think it as this way.. When your constantly red lining a car this puts a lot more strain on the motor.. Now if you drive the car.. Say it revs to 7k.. Redline starts at 5k.. Revving it to the red line range then change gear.. Does that mean your motor is ready to blow up? And would you say it gave you less power in doing so? I don't believe in none of this I'm right your wrong nonsense... Or any of the other wank factors... I got the most flex.. You need to run 35s minimum...Yours ain't a 4x4 if it ain't locked and lifted... Should had bought a 4.2...etc... Lol
I understand how much pride people take in there vehicles but to me it's about getn out on the tracks with family and friends and enjoying some quality down time... If your happy how your rig goes then happy days...

I wouldnt suggest using the rear loop to recover it will fail same as the hook on the front.
I was talking to my Mechanic 335 RwKW Patrol about upgrading my turbo pipes to 60mm.
I think they are 50mm with step ups on both ends to 60mm, He said not to ATS.
After reading abit about the DP chip not handling these HPD and bigger intake pipes Im
a bit reluctant to fit mine.
MH read #208