Thanks For the info Mat. Was discussing this topic today and im still up in arms about it.
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Thanks For the info Mat. Was discussing this topic today and im still up in arms about it.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
What are your concerns?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Mark, this is why I bought your Carter 4600. I read only positive advice about fitting a lift pump so I thought it was a good idea for the outlay..Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Thanks for the info Mat. It all seems to make sense I guess. I was looking at a Walbro pump as everything I've read suggests they are silent and already have internal bypass if they fail. Read a number of reports of noisey and/or failed Carters. The 2 pumps I'm looking at are
FRD-11 Minimum Flow Rate: 76 liters per hour (20 gph)
Deadhead Pressure: 28 to 48 kPa (4.0 to 7.0 psi)
The PDF brochure gives Flow up to: 190 liters per hour (52 gph)
FRB-13 Minimum Flow Rate: 162 liters per hour (43 gph)
Deadhead Pressure: 42 to 56 kPa (6.0 to 8.0 psi)
The PDF brochure gives Flow up to: 225 liters per hour (60 gph)
I notice in their PDF brochure they give a completely different figure of flow rate. (which I assume is a maximum with no restriction).
http://www.walbro.com/frb13-series-fuel-pump.aspx
My research suggested that Carter were the most used so it's logical (to me) that fault reports would be more common. It's perhaps indicative that the same person had 2 Carter failures in a short period whereas others have run them trouble-free for years.
They were mounted by Cummins as original equipment if I read correctly.
It might be of interest to some that someone actually mounted his lift pump inside the fuel tank so he can't hear anything. I certainly can't hear mine when the engine is running and it's just under my door.
Bypass is simple to add.
Back right hand corner on the exhaust mount if where i was going to mount it...
I had to remove my EFI fuel filter so that left the 2 metal fuel lines open. I mounted the Carter using those fuel lines because it was an easy option.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Correction. Back left hand mate. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Well started to install the bits today. First up is the Radius Fab 4" snorkel.
As it started
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pscq0bcfgw.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psnvadkbvl.jpg
Out with the old
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psp3cncl4o.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjo0nnzes.jpg
Mark it up and take a deep breath, used an air hacksaw to chop out the hole. Also had to chop out both skins of the inner guard to 4"+ for the airbox inlet.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psqtxm4w93.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psbh5shzca.jpg
A sigh of relief
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5sfck1lr.jpg
What a pain in the butt getting the elbow into the airbox inlet hole through the inner guards, but fed it through from the engine bay side. The intermeadiate tube will only go in via the big new hole you just cut. Far out it's tight, there's only millimeters of clearance, like 1 or 2 if that. these things were never designed to accomodate 4" inlets that's for sure. Sprayed all the silicon bits with silicon spray to lub them up and they just slip on real easy and make it easy to adjust, doesn't solve the lack of space problem but at least it goes together easy.
Drilled a couple of extra holes in the A pillar, whacked in a few rivnuts and the bracket was done, easy as. The Radius Fab snorkel covers all the holes on the guard but leaves to top hole on the A pillar exposed. I simply drilled it out to 9mm, threw a rivnut in there and whacked a 6mm stainless button head screw in there, looks neat as.
A few hours later, after many, many trial fits and adjustments and it's done
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psmbi8m07f.jpg
Tomorrow I'll trial fit the airbox and intercooler and while I'm feeling confident, might chop the bonnet up and install the scoop.
Spent today fitting my new scoop. It's a great looking thing with a very high quality of finish.
First job, remove the under bonnet insulation and the original scoop, then sit the new cooler in place to mark out the location. Engine bay looks better already.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pslxrdq7sy.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psihlwnkgq.jpg
Put the little foam blocks on the corners of the cooler and close the bonnet. They stick to the bonnet, drill through next to them and you now have your cooler location. Get your template and a helper and locate the template on the bonnet, measure many times.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0m4odedx.jpg
Drill all the holes (27 of them) out to 8mm. First I drilled them at 3mm then removed the template, put down a heap of masking tape and then drilled them all to 8mm. Then trial fitted the scoop, all good. Get your air hacksaw out and chop a whopping huge hole in the middle of the bonnet. Clean up all the edges with a flapper wheel, debur and then give it a polish and your left with this. Seal the edges with some paint, I used Rust Guard and then sit the scoop on and see how it looks. This is as far as I got, I'll need to bolt it down later, much later.
Post edited, so as to not encourage other to bugger their bonnet...
NOTE: cut a rectangle that joins up the 4 holes you drilled through at the location of your foam blocks, don't follow the template like I did or you'll be up for another bonnet like I am
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmbslgry.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psej1agx6m.jpg