Do you reckon I should take mine back Craig mate? I thought 12.7ish meant fully charged on 12v batteries or are these little packs different somehow?
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Do you reckon I should take mine back Craig mate? I thought 12.7ish meant fully charged on 12v batteries or are these little packs different somehow?
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Exact reason I went and bought one. Would not have believed it if I didnt see it. Such a small device, but that punch!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Thats too low, mate... for a LiFePo 90 to 100% S.O.C. no load voltage should be up in the 13's or even very low 14's.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Did you measure that voltage at the "jump start" terminals or at one of the other pairs?
The "jump" terminals are 'hot' off the battery pack but on a lot of the various packs those 'aux' and 'test' terminals will have circuitry on them and you may not be seeing the battery itself
Thanks mate, yeah I just stuck the multimeter straight into the units jump starter plug connection under the rubber flap.
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I would have thought the maximum voltage would be 12.6V out of these.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I believe they are using 3.6V cells that have a maximum voltage of 4.2V and have 3 in series for a maximum of 12.6V fully charged.
Hmmm... OK... what sort/brand/part # pack did you buy?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I'm not convinced there is something wrong yet just curious
Mine has no output on the jump terminals unless I go to 'override' IE the pack can tell if there is a battery connected or not.
You could try putting it on Charge and see if the voltage changes then leave it a while and check volts again even tho it says 100% on the indication
Dunno... could be that some use 3 and some 4 maybe.Quote:
Originally Posted by TPC
Mine definitely goes up around 14 when fully charged and for interest I just confirmed 13.6 at the terminals (last charged 2 months ago) with the lamp on as a load albeit a small one.
I also wouldn't have thought they would use the overcharge (4.2V) for the normal charging of the packs but maybe they do on some.
As mentioned, on mine I have to go to override which takes out the fault diagnosis and reverse protection circuits.
I asked MB what he bought so might shed some light on it.
You may be right about some using 3 and some using 4, mine is a Laser brand and it uses 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Had a look online to look for specs of other brands but most don't have how many cells they use.
Apols TPC... I amended my post but got distracted and forgot to submit before you replied.
Agree the online specs are poor and indeed claims made for some are rubbish.
3 versus 4 would explain the price disparity among some of them that is for sure.
The model I bought for work (and one for myself) were around a couple of hunjy $ at the time and were the biggest I could get that were still legal for commercial air travel
Cheers ET, I’ll have to try that soon mate, it’s not with me atm. It does have a little box thingy on the jumper + lead line that from memory on instructions required specific timing press I think during a jump.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
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...........http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/15.jpg
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That little box should contain some schottky diodes for protection against spikes and reverse connection, hopefully.
Powerall is supposedly one of the top brands in this market and because of that it is also one of the most copied/counterfeit.
Strangely for a Yank company their specs are very vague but, pfft, thats life these days.
If that one is a knockoff they went to great lengths to make it look genuine.
So lets assume it is genuine...then... you could maybe flick Powerall an email query or try and see if their online warranty rego will accept the device.
Like I said before I'm not convinced yours is bad just curious and if it still works then who cares anyway right?
Yeah, I think it is a spike preventer as well but possibly not rev pol...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
While reading up on the unit I recall the manuf has a 'version 3' lead for reverse polarity protection on his latest kits which looks different and also an advice/warning for customers with Ver 2 or earlier to consider upgrading as the early version don't have rev pol protection
I do so want to try reverse pole it now. Bugger the consequences!!!
Ooooooohhhhh.... sparkles... oh so pretty, oh so pretty :redface:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Back to base now, Cheers Gents! Repco 50% off deal for flat batteries maybe suckered me :-)
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pretty disappointed i didn't see a glow in the sky
Mmmmmmm, checked it just now again and still reading 12.28 although strangely enough its on 80% now according to the lights. Plugged it in for another charge as ET suggested and started reading 12.35 instantly. Will see what it reads later. Does appear to be discharging itself :-(
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That rise voltage is a temporary residual effect of the higher charging voltage. All batteries get that, and will drop to their charged voltage fairly quickly.
Yeah, let it sit on charge for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Lithiums are a very different beast to Lead Acid.
For one thing they can't charge 'low' cells like a Lead Acid will IE once any Cell in series gets to max charge the charging flow virtually stops.
For that reason they have to have balancing circuits for the Cells.
Thats why some batteries of similar rating are more expensive and many manufacturers are selling versions they call "smart" as they have the circuits internal to the Battery.
Anyhooow... let the sucker sit there on charge for a while and see what you get.
Cheers ET mate,
Dropped back into Repco a few weeks ago to discuss and they were to contact their supplier for standard specs info requested etc... No call back as yet but home tests kindly suggested above are over time showing issues I believe:
After 48hr charge:
(12hr later residual drop off test check)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/130.jpg
Following pics are as evenly taken as possible over the last few weeks:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/131.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/132.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/133.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/134.jpg
I do now believe it’s warranted evidence for a store credit on oil, filters or the like.
Time to invest in your recommendation from the beginning on other helpful threads :-)
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Final test:
Just used it for the last 30 minutes from 12.27V to put 50% charge needed back on my iphone :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/135.jpg
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Lithium batteries should have higher volts than that
We have a 200 ah Lithium at Work and it still has 13.2 volts after 12 months on the shelf
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FYI MB here's mine. 4 months since last charge down to 3 bars on power bar, still ample volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Attachment 73736
FWIW, Local Repco has never called me back about querying their Powerall supplier. Unit was fully charged up again (5 LED indicators) and left to sit without usage for say 7 weeks. Here later it reads truly +11.96V (4 LED indicators) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/01/15.jpg
Have just finally purchased one of ET’s kindly recommended ‘Powertech LifePo4’ models off Ebay. Did end up choosing the slightly larger 600A jobbie as I only need it for local work unlike ET I believe can sometimes need to air travel for projects with his 450A ripper still !
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I checked my 800a unit last night after having it left uncharged from the AB Donk Party and it was sitting at 14.21V - have to be happy with that. I also have used it twice to jump start a V8 petrol engine and did it with ease - not charged afterwards either. Great unit the Wuldmar. I did have a small 'brick' style booster, about 50mm cube, ran off a 30V cell, but it was a gimmick - difficult to check charge or work out its state of charge and didn't have the grunt it claimed either.
Repco have been great, full refund given on the failing ‘Powerall’ with depleting volt pictures from here shown. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/139.jpg I’m sure it was just an unfortunate failure but nonetheless ET’s kindly suggested version has arrived. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/140.jpg A much bigger unit, says 100% outa the box, just gotta learn how to fire it up now, Cheers ET again!
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Get AB to hold the wires, then just start pressing buttons, loudest screams is the Jump Start settingQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Donks & their batteries around the block have been thankfully faithful of late. Super happy with the kindly recommended ‘Powertech LifePo4’ thank you again ET good bloke!!
Ripper thing from new has sat stagnant at the ready, still 100% its brain says, Cheers again :-) !!!!!!!!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/04/205.jpg
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Had a bit of a disappointing event with the Wuldmar 800amp unit. Main battery dropped a cell, fell to 10V at the battery. Plugged in the wuldmar and unfortunately all it did was equalise the starter voltage, then didn't have the grunt to turn the engine over. Checked the wuldmar and it was down to 11 volts in a matter of seconds. Anyway, maybe this is the extreme.
Can someone please remind me how this thing gets recharged? I've got the ciggy plug cable so I can do it in the car tomorrow, but can I do it via USB from computer? If so which port? The 4 USB ports are labelled "Output" so don't think that can be done?Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
Not sure what I did when I first got it!
Mine does not charger thru th USB, this is output only. Use the round DC cig lighter plug. I cant remember if mine came with a 240V charger or not - did yours? I have to contact the manufacturer as my USB outlets don't appear to output for charging of the iphone - usually I get a ding sound to say the phone is charging by other sources. I have the 800amp unit.
No mine didn't come with a 240V charger so must be ciggy plug only. I think I hooked the Wuldmar unit via USB to computer when I unwrapped it originally! Doh! Anyway she's flat a tack so I'll charge it in the car tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I'm wondering what setting I put the unit on to charge the phone. 12V, 16V, 19V?? The 240V plug I usually use at home has an output of 5V. So do I just choose 12V from the Wuldmar unit or could that be too much for the phone? Might just stick to charging the phone through the inverter with the 5v phone plug.
Bloody instructions with this Wuldmar unit were atrocious Chinglish and not much help at all, plus I can't find them now so probably threw them out!
Use the 5v output plug. The 19v is more suited to laptops and camera batteries I believe.
OK, correction to previous post. I unpacked my battery bank and found a factory supplied USB to Iphone mini cable. I plugged this into the iphone, tried all 3 jacks, nothing. I then pushed the small black button between the 12v/5a output plug and the battery jumped plugs - bingo, turned the charge 'on' to the phone. so happily charging the iphone now.. Can't find any instructions with mine, but being a typical engineer, probably thru them out without reading! I suspect the standard iphoe cable will work with this device as well.
Regards charge capacity, mine sits at 4 out of 5 stars on the side. When charging from cig lighter the 5th light blinks. I can start a V8 petrol engine maybe 6 times before it needs a recharge. recommendation is to keep it topped up though from personal experience.
Glad you've sorted yours PB! My previous comment about 5V output was relating to the 240V AC to 5V DC plug I use in power points at home. I forgot to check the USB output rating on the jump starter unit but just did and find they (x4) are all 5V. Bonus! So I could use the "octopus" lead that came with the unit with USB at one end (plug into jump starter) and 4 different plugs at the other end for different devices. But do I set the jump starter at 12V, 16V or 19V when charging the phone, or does this setting not matter? Complete newby with this unit, actually never used it in anger before.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
The USBs are preset at 5V output, only difference is amperage. so if one end is in USB then regardless of the output plug to phone you will get 5V. You unit sounds different to mine as I simply has 19V and 12V outlets, so in theory you could be charging from the powerbank with both at the same time. Regards what voltage for charging the phone, cant you just use the 5V outlet with a suitable plug ? I would check what voltage your phone needs to charge at and then attach the appropriate plug to the lead perhaps? If the phone charges at say 12v charge off 12v setting, if 17V I would use 19v, but if you connect via USB outlet the other 12/16/19V does not matter. I think thats what you are asking????
Haha yeah I think so mate! The phone charges at 5V (240V plug that came with it has 5V output). So I'll just set the unit to 12V as that's the lowest setting, plug the USB cable that came with the power pack into the 5V outlet and leave it at that. If it the phone gets warm after a bit I'll charge it with the inverter with the phone's original 240V plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Honest Product Review:
ET is flat out on the money; “LiFePo4” ‘Powertech’ bargain!
At least utilised twice weekly here, thank you mate!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/08/601.jpg
Daedong 100hp 4.2TD sucks out only at best 8% [emoji106][emoji106]
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Hey MB do you have a link to that? ETs link is broken. I can only find a 270amp one on ebay for $170?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB