I heard something about a coarser thread stud and nut like a 1.5 over the 1.25 that was a bit longer worked a treat.
Has anyone else heard of this working or tried it and had success.
I would have thought a split washer would do the trick .
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I heard something about a coarser thread stud and nut like a 1.5 over the 1.25 that was a bit longer worked a treat.
Has anyone else heard of this working or tried it and had success.
I would have thought a split washer would do the trick .
stock rims have a taper not flat so i dont think you can use a split washer
Tojos ungrade from an 10mm stud to a 12mm stud, maybe do this mod for the Patrol. mine have come loose but sorted them out in time. Just retighten after a quick drive, Shouldn't have any problems
I had this problem. They sent out the safety notice not long after I bought my 'Trol. I had nissan fit the indicators and I checked them every couple of weeks, they never moved.
That was until one rainy freezing day in the blue mtns, I felt a bit of a wobble driving round a bend.
It was wet so didn't think much of it, the highway gets pretty slippery up at mt. Victoria. Next bend the wobble was there again and there was a rattle sound.
At this point I thought, "I'll pull over in town and work out what the hell that was", there was a rest area less than a km ahead. Before I even got out of the bend,
there was a loud bang and the back end slid along the tar and pulled me into a ditch. Had to get the cops up there because it was half on the hwy on a blind corner in the wet.
Then I stood in the rain for 2 hrs because there were no towtrucks in the upper mountains that day.
Once the towie got it back home I worked out the brake rotor was buggered, 4 wheel studs bent/ 2 sheared off, brake baffle plate gone and the tire had smashed the plastic tail light
asssembly on its way out.
ASAP I went to my local nissan dealer to get the parts I needed, after talking to my usual parts guy who is always a massive help, he suggested I should go over to the service department and tell
them what happened.
I talked to a service mechanic, told him what had happened, explained I had the tires with the defect etc. He seemed genuinely concerned and went to get the head service manager
... That's when the usual Nissan Australia experience began. He came out in his suit and tie, then explained to me there was no recall or defect on the alloy rims, simply a 'notice'.
I wasn't even interested in getting money out of them, just wanted to let Nissan know that this had happened even though I had the markers and had regularly been checking them.
If my tire had come off the way it did in an urban area it could have seriously injured someone.
The service manager however didn't want to know about it and palmed me off by telling me that it wasn't their problem, said I'd have to take it to the dealer who fitted the indicators.
(As if to say that fitting the plastic caps wrong at the dealer had caused the incident).
2 weeks after this happened, a work colleague saw a GU near Port Stevens laying on the side of the road with a wheel missing and one very frustrated driver.
I also found out that a couple of years ago a Patrol in my employers WA office had an alloy undo and shear off.
After the incident I swapped the factory alloys for steel sunraysias. I could have sold the alloys and made a profit but I took them to the
local tip instead and threw them in the landfill. Decided it would be wrong to sell them to someone else knowing just how much trouble those particular alloys cause
I'll add that while I was waiting for the cops/towie, a bloke in an older 'cruiser pulled up on the other side of the hwy,
looked at my Patrol laying in the ditch(the missing wheel was on the other side away from his view), looked at me standing in the freezing rain and said "put it in four wheel drive ya idiot"
before shaking his head and driving off. Needless to say if I ever see that bloke again me and him and going to come to blows
I too have had the exact same issue this weekend with my '04 Patrol. After servicing (private mechanic), 1 weeks full regular driving, a 4 hour trip to the Murray with caravan in tow & a couple of 1/2 hour trips in & out of town, the left rear wheel sheared 2 studs completely & had the other 4 hanging by a thread after 2 hours travelling home. How, after so much driving even under heavy load can the wheel then decide its time to work itself off the axle? Really disappointed & I have no confidence at all in the wheels now. I will also be looking for a set of steels to replace the alloys.
Soo - glad I found this thread. I have the 2102 GU 8 with alloys and what look like the indicators on three studs. Now - I found that little aluminium tool in the console - nearly threw it out - hope I haven't. Can anyone tell me how to use it since I didn't receive any info from the dealer about it? AM I just supposed to check the red arrows stay in the same spot?
Ask the dealer - that's what you paid good money for. Also the more peeved off customers they get the more chance they will do something about it. Asking for help on the forum for something like this is great and you will get lots of help and opinions here - but that wont fix the problem.
This thread been going since 2 of March , Put some 14mm landcruiser studs in up grade the torque rating to suit.. MR Nissans Not going to fix it Just put the thicker studs in
Surely this tread should have been resolved months ago, Over engineer your studs, peace of mind . I'll also be doing a a BOLT instead of stud for your rear wheel carrier if anyony interested
This With allow you to have a high light jack holder up to latest model. Just PM if Interested. High Quality product most colours not charge if different colour required
After having wheels fitted or rotated, check after 30-40 k nip up after that you should be fine, you'll find the'll only come loose in first 30 or so kS
I don't want to speak too soon, as I have never had a problem with the GU Alloys in over 12 years.
I once nearly lost a steel rim on the left rear of the MQ once, and I think that has made me cautious and made me check the wheels with a little extra diligence from then on.
It isn't just an alloy whel problem and it isn't just pertinent to Nissan's, but I think that the main problem is that the GU Alloys are particularly tight on the hub, causing you to think that the wheel is all done up tight when it isn't sitting flat against the hub......
Here is some info about that, these cards are meant to be supplied when the safety recall is done. The whole issue is a typical Nissan failure. Even the recall is botched up by supplying only 3 indicators per wheel. What the cheap skates. You can purchase a rest of them from Ni$$an Rare Parts department for lousy $72 AUD GST Incl.Quote:
Originally Posted by lorrieandjas
Cheers
Any one know what locking wire is and what it's used for?
Its a thin wire (Stainless Steel is best) that's often used in aircraft to ensure that things cannot come undone. Typically a couple of small holes in the nut/bolt are wired to the next nut in such a way, that if one loosens, it would pull the other one tighter. Since they are torqued up in the first place, then it's difficult to pull the next one tighter - so one can't become loose. It tends to prevent the first loosening, and definitely prevents escalation.
It's been used on aircraft for years - simple and so so effective.
An example
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/11/31.jpg
This is a good solution for wheel nuts, I'm thinking of getting my nuts drilled :D
On the downside, it can really hurt when you don't bend over the locked wire and you stab it down behind your thumb nail
Thanks mate - cleared that up for me now!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
This is the first time I have heard about wheels coming off and plastic indicators? I have asked my mates who also own patrols and they haven't either. Good luck with Nissan.
Welcome aboard mate........
last week i loose my left ''17 alloy wheel on patrol.wheel nuts where tigt at 150Nm.and just after 500km,wheel came off,and on other wheels,wheel nuts where screw off..car has 90 000km.today i ask for i price of new alloy wheel,they sad 1300eur...that is just too much..i will by a used one or from some other wheel manufacturer to have as a spear one.
rober just look along the side of the road mate there is sure to be one lying there that has fallen of another patrol. (joke) good luck mate and keep checking
i would,but there is almost no any patrols...so no any lying wheels...Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
Rober, a good practice to have when any wheels are changed or removed for any reason is to nip the rear left wheel again once you get home or after a drive, I really believe this has to do with having such a good rear diff in them, is your left hand drive or right hand drive, I think the right hand drive patrols have the issue with the rear left wheel & vice-versa, I am extremely weary of it now after it happened to me, I check it periodically & before any major trip, never been an issue since
from now on,i will also check my wheels periodically with torque key,I bought it last week.I'am thinking also to put some loctite medium strenght bolt nut glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morton
i don't get it,what a rear diff has with it?
X 2 always re check tightness of nuts after 50 k, or this will happen.
today i did buy all 24 new wheel nuts and six new screws on wheel that fall off.one screw did brake,and two where bend,but i will replace them all 6...
Rober, it is just my theory in regards to the diff but I have spoken to a couple of people including an Engineer & my theory 'seems' plausible to them, I am not saying this is the issue but let me explain my theory, Patrols appear to have an issue with the back left wheel coming loose & often coming off as a result, often damaging the rim & the lugs (what you refer to as screws) The LSD in the back of the patrols are notoriously good, if your vehicle is RHD the left rear will turn in a tighter circle when turning left everytime, sometimes a good rear diff will 'chatter' when turning as both wheels are trying to turn at the same time which is physically impossible when doing left turns (U turns create the same issue but people rarely perform U turns) I believe this is creating more stress on the back left nuts/rim/lugs causing a failure at times, one theory of mine is the rim holes for the lugs are slowly becoming larger over time & to the eye is no more noticably different to the others, eventually the torque settings become redundant as it will not hold as well as it was engineered to do, again this is only my theory, my other theory is my wife is trying to collect on my life insurance lol, I wouldnt put loctite on the lugs mate, just be vigilant with them & you will be fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Rober
But the same thing happens to the right wheel when you turn right.
But the lugs as also spinning in the right direction......Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Don't stroke it, TAP it!!!!.....
Did I good understand,when you say LSD,that is when i normally drive car without locking back diff...My car is left hand drive.but in practice you have more or less same thing of turns on the right and on the left side.i did loose rear left wheel,but also the wright side was loosen,and front left wheel was also loosen...a day before i was off roading on the snow,it was cold,and wheels were full of snow(discentered)or what is the wright word(steering wheel was shaking).day after it happened...i think that problem is that it is a large diameter of wheel(more stress and vibration),and alloy is much softer than steel,so vibrations shows on connection,between wheel and nuts,and nuts with time loose....Quote:
Originally Posted by Morton
Attachment 23602Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Nice hose cradle, don't remember seeing that. Lol
you average left hand turn is tighter that your average right hand turn except when doing U turns, normally performed turning rightQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
it that case I would be more inclined to think that someone is tampering with the wheel nuts or your mechanic didnt tighten them enough perhaps during the last service, I would run with human error if suddenly 3 wheels are loose IMHOQuote:
Originally Posted by Rober
i was at tyre repaire man,changing from summer to winter tyres.they all where tighted on 150Nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morton
this is my lost wheel with eaten holes
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/52.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/53.jpg
new parts
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/54.jpg
installed
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/55.jpg
tightned at 14Kgs
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/56.jpg
i also made new..what is the proper word..hand bars?originals i lost somewhere in bush..
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/57.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/58.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/59.jpg
this time red color,so that i see them better,and not forgot 'em
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/12/60.jpg
bugger x 2
People are saying wheels come loose after 20-50km well my LHR did approx 2000km before parting the vehicle today. There is obviously some kind of issue with it happening to so many people.
..........Leroy
Much damage? Who put the nuts on last ?
Pfft! Mazda. They have yet made a real car. Sorry, the old RX series with the Rotary engines were the only decent vehicle they made.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter cfm
See ya.
After having wheels or tyres replaced or worked on You need to RECHECK your wheel nut after say 10 kays
even if you leave 4x4 shop and return 15 min later requesting they re tension nuts up.
You just missed "NATIONAL CHECK YOUR NUTS DAY" but another coming up soon with the track closure.
@ leroy patrol should of checked them well before 2000. mark it in as part of a monthly check list
Patrol wheels should only be torqued to 133Nm. There was a batch of bad ones where the alloy had too many impurities and the nuts would rip straight through. I've only seen it twice but it has been known to happen.
From what I've been reading this isn't just limited to Nissan or patrols..... has happened on a wide variety of makes and models, whether on OEM alloys, or after market jobbies
MCCrappatappalot signing in!!!
driving along in my 07 Pathfinder last week, doing 70KPH, rear left wheel parted the vehicle, scary when it happened but no one hurt so that's the main thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Country_GU
The alloy had worked its way over the wheel nuts and came off, bit of bodywork damage nothing too serious.
I think whats happened is that the cup type washers that are pressed into the alloy (see pic) have come loose and when wheels have been off for new tyres or servicing these have fell out and not replaced, anyone agree with this?
These cup washers are not meant to come out of the alloy so is this an alloy wheel defect? ~You will see in the pic of the alloy wheel itself the circular holes have all been reemed out to the shape of the wheel nut. When the wheel came off the nuts were left on the studs attached to the brake disc...
seems most people are talking about the rear left wheel coming off, why would this one be more prone to failure?Attachment 56845Attachment 56846Attachment 56847
Happened to me as well in 1976 in my first 4X4 a 1969 shorty cruiser after driving 600ks from Brisvagas to Rocky. I had rotated wheels and rear left been done up tight (no torque wrenches in those days) but wheel was up against the raised lip in middle of brake drum and after some time had worked loose and now against the drum had enough play to almost wear through studs.
Rear left wheel gets most of the drive from diff as seen when tyre wears more than any other tyre on vehicle. I have seen explanation but can't remember how or why this happens and was beyond my simple mind.
Hey Folks,
Sorry I haven't read all the posts - but a quick note from me.
Had the rear passenger side wheel come loose at 110 (there's a long thread somewhere on here with regular updates).
From my research, I found that Nissan never lodged an official recall, but they did fit the plastic markers.
The only reason for the wheels to come loose is if they are incorrectly tensioned (wrong order, wrong tension).
So I went back to the place who did our wheel rotation and they (eventually - after raising with Australia-wide manager) replaced the rim and tyre with new ones.
PM me for more info, if you want it :)
Cheers, Trace
You can add another late model GU to the list, not mine but someone I have met before. Lost his left rear wheel about 6 weeks ago, I only just found out but don't know the circumstances.