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Cross him off the list!! take it to someone who has a brain, some one on here should be able to point you in the right direction, depending on your location.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
I would give Rob at Robson Bros in Bentley a call if I were you mate.
Cheers , The ferret.
yeah i did mate, ive got me car booked in there for my EGR mods and catch can.
He said $225 for the install of the Pyro gauge, might be worth just getting it done their
They will sort it mate no worries, If you need the EGR plate, let me know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
cheers, the ferret.
Cheers mate. They are doing all the mods for $330 how much do think it should be to install a catch can?
Mate, just go to supercrap and buy the catchcan, repco for the brass fittings and hose/hose clips etc and fit it ya self.
ya don't need a batchelor of mechanics to install a catch can.
It goes between the pcv and the inlet hose,
It should come with instructions, if not someone on here is sure to help.
That's what this forum is all about, helping people.
Cheers, the ferret.
How much does a descent catch can set you back?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...80#Description
And that will do the goods? The place where I'm going Monday to get my EGR mod do e was going to charge $550 for catch can and fit!
Some are around $200, but that will do the job, as they say "ya get what ya pay for" some even make their own, I know I would next time.
Cheers, the ferret.
Mite just run with the robson bros mate. They know their stuff by the sounds of it, said the catch can was the best they could get???
As ferret said, cross him off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Also to note about gauges in the pillar pod.... I found with the incandescent bulbs supplied, the heat would build up inside the pillar and my egt gauge would have random spaz attacks. - Replaced bulbs with leds and haven't had an issue in over 12months.
there seems to be hell of alot more room in your Patrol than mine to get in to the dump pipe hahaha
Mate, if you really want the boost gauge and the pyro, and you are not happy or have the confidence to do the work yourself then get the experts to set it up for you.
Then you don't have to worry about the lack of room to do the job, let them skin their knuckles or what ever while you sit back in the pub with a beer,
There is a pub just down the road.
The guy that says it can't be done is a......... it rhymes with anchor.
You could do this work by yourself, it seems daunting but a piece of pi55 really.
I got a pillar pod with boost and EGT.
My boost gauge has vacuum and boost reading.I went that way because buying an autometer gauge that displays only boost costed heaps more.
I have seen gauges that have more than one kind of display, ie boost and EGT in the one gauge and other combos of parameters
ok so took a trip to 4 more exhaust places this afternoon. all saying its a crappy job! $300-$400 to get a bung put in.
this is doing my head in :(
today i called Robson Brothers 4x4 like Ferrett said.
they put me onto an exhaust place where they get their stuff done.
So i rang the bloke and he said the same thing everyone else has said (about 6 places now)
All the time is in labour, pulling of the heat shield and moving hoses to get to the dump pipe.
He recommended replacing the old dump pipe (stock pipe) and getting a 2 and a half inch dump pipe installed.
i thought this would make sence, becasue if i want to replace the exhaust system it shouyld all be able to be done from under the car, instead of getting the dump pipe out again.
what are your thoughts peeps???
i think in labout im looking at about $200-$250 + the cost of a new dump pipe.
Anyone got an idea how much a new pipe will cost?
you can get 3 inch exhaust off e bay for $900 and install yourself and drill holes before install
Man I can't believe your having so much trouble finding someone to do the job. Took me 1 decent exhaust place to do the job...
If your running out of options then yeah, what your saying makes sense. If it were me, id replace the pipe if its going to cost you that much...
Sorry to hear about your issues dude.
What about a small right angle drill, drill the dump pipe, tap it to the fitting size say 1/8 npt and screw the probe into it.
It can go anywhere that you could reach. idea??
Yeah mate, from what people are saying on forums, the exhaust places should have no worries at all.
No one wants a bar of it :(
Hey Ferrett, all this talk about the heat shield coming out is what i have my doubts about. Im good with my hands but have no mechanical knowlege at all.
and then getting the pipe of. If i were to do it i would use the clamp kit that came with the gauge.
To be honest mate, i dont have the confidence to do it, and i dont think there is much room for me to even try
Mate, you don't need to remove the dump pipe as far as I know, just the heat shield to give access to drill the hole for the clamp kit.
The shield IS a pain I know, about 7 or 8 bolts to get to and undo, it's awkward and causes swearing n stuff, but is doable.
Just take ya time, plenty of CRC on everything, crack the bolts while the pipe is still hot.
Don't lean on the top radiator tank or you will be up fer another $400 (tip)
Cheers, the ferret.
hmmmmm i might have a crack at it tomorrow afternoon the heat shield then.
dont i have to drill the hole before removing the heat shield, so i know where i need to cut?
Once you work out the secret to getting it out (it only comes out one way) you can mark it and then cut the hole and mark the dump pipe.
do i have to dosconnect anything to get it out? hoses? cables?
the thing is i dont want to pull stuff apart, then have the problem of how to put it back lol
Mostly just hoses and stuff, don't undo any aircon pipes tho, take a few pics so you can put it all back the same.
Make ya self a bit of room by pulling stuff off and then it will be easier.
hahaha i know your trying to help mate, but i think thats the icing on the cake.
the more i have to do the more im getting worries lol
im thinking i might just go with the new dump pipe and get the bloke at kewdale exhaust to fit it :)
I think for peace of mind its for the best!
i will install my boost gauge on the weekend but.
i got my gauges today. the gauge thats in there now is an electric vaucum/boost gauge.
this is where the pipe connects to at the moment.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1278/imagekwr.jpg
from there it goes to a little black box and its wires from there.
im guessing i can just hook up my new connection and hose up to the same spot once ive removed the old one?
run it to the gauge and wire it up?
so will that connection just after the intercooler be an ok spot to connect my new boost gauge up?
Yep, that's fine.
Cheers, the ferret.
ok sweet, thanks bud.
the wires on that are on my old boost gauge, there quite thin. Could i run a second wire of those to the pyro gauge for the lights, ignition and earth?
that way i dont need to run any electric wires. just need to add a secone wire the the 3.
Mate, As I am a qualified Fitter/Turner/Tool maker, and not an Auto electrician, I feel that I could comment on your wiring situation,but you would be better off to ask a sparky.
"YENDOR" would be best suited to answer your question.
Cheers, the ferret.
booked in for my new 2 and a half inch dump pipe and my pyro bung install tomorrow.
the bloke is doing it with the new dump pipe for $300
pretty good considering that was the price i was getting of some just to put the bung in lol
If my pillar comes tomorrow which it should, i hope to install my gauges over the weekend :)
gauges installed today pretty stoked it all went well :)
what sort of temperatures should i be seeing from my pyro?
street driving at 60km
highway driving 100km
and 4x4 driving.
and so on. info on this would be great so i know where and what it should be doing :)
cheers
Ok so I have been for a bit of a drive over the weekend once I installed my gauges. Can someone let ne know if these temperatures are normal for my pyro?
Accelerating up to 100km on the highway I'm getting temps of about 450-500c but once up to speed it settled down to about 280-350c
Just cruising through the streets once up to speed it settles around 250-300c.
I was just curious mainly on the accelerating up to speed temps.
And sometimes on cruise control doing 100km my boost gauge Sita roughly on 10psi then goes up to 13psi down to 5psi then settles back at 10psi. It does this a little bit. Is that normal also?
Cheers all
hey leigh good to see you've perservered and managed to get the work done mate..................... as far as temps and pressures are concerned, I can't help there mate but I'm pretty sure I've seen it mentioned in a thread that temps shouldn't go over 500C for sustained periods....... I'll see if I can find the threadQuote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
I haven't fitted my EGR blank yet (lazy + school holiday madness with kids), so these are "stock" temps:
Street cruise @ 60km/h - ~450deg F (230deg C)
Highway cruise @ 100km/h - ~600-800 deg F (315-425deg C) depends a lot on the weight in the car, roof racks, etc. Cruising at 90-95km/h is always ~250deg C
4x4 driving - ~1020-1030deg F (550deg C), and that was a long muddy hill climb in 4H with 25PSI tyres and keeping the boot down hard in 2nd on the auto. During the tougher track sections it seemed to hover around 450-500deg C, but backing off a little saw it rapidly drop back 100deg C in less than 30 sec.
I believe that blocking the EGR sees a substantial temp drop above 2500rpm (when the EGR valve would normally open). I'll know for sure after this coming weekend if I find the time to fit up the blanking plate and needle & dawes valves and adjust them properly.
cheers fellas, yeah your right Clunk ive read that also :)
any info on how to adjust my Dawes valve?
im getting 12 PSI tops and have read it should be set at about 16 PSI
Just undo the thin lock nut, hold the knurled end with pliers and turn the body with a spanner in the direction to tighten (shorten) the valve to increase maximum boost. Then gently nip up the lock nut and go for a drive and test.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
The boost level can vary from car to car, but if you still have ECU control it should be ok to run 16psi. If you bypass the ECU solenoid, I'd keep it below 16psi under 3000rpm.
everything has been asjusted :) yay
just a quick question on boost but.
when i have my cruise control set at 100km/h, is it normal for my boost to sit on 10psi for a fair chunk of the time. But sometimes it goes from 10psi to 5 psi to 0psi EGT's rise a bit, then it finally goes back to about 10psi and stays there for a while.
is this normal boost behavour?
That sounds normal if you still have the ECU controlling boost and your EGR isn't blocked. Otherwise, perhaps it's the cruse control manipulating the throttle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
My EGR is blocked and what's that about the ecu?