Tony when checking the maf sensor voltage you state there shoild be battery voltage on the white wire theb you said something about 5v which i dont understand could you please enlighten me
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Tony when checking the maf sensor voltage you state there shoild be battery voltage on the white wire theb you said something about 5v which i dont understand could you please enlighten me
OK.........here is my latest two cents worth.
I have cleaned the sensor in the past and know how ugly it can get with out a clean and how nice the vehicle runs after. Since then I have fitted a catch can. I have since done about 20-40 thou kms. I pulled the sensor out tonight to clean it but bugger me it is still as clean as. The Catch can is working beautifully. I will clean the sensor all the same just to make sure.
Next job is to fit the EGT and boost guages.
I bought a EGT from Autob.... and matching boost guage. The EGT was $180. Opened it on Father's Day to find no probe included. Sent the good wife back to enquire and the said shop ordered the replacement probe in. She picked it up today after handing over $100 more only to find more parts missing from the probe ie the nuts and olive (?). Brand = AutoMeter model 3343, its made in the USA so I was hoping for something with a bit of quality. My question is should the probe have been in the box in the first place and has my wife been ripped off.
G/Day Tony, Have Passed my GU 03 3.0 di TD over to my son -- spoke to him today -- advising what a great site this is & he says his rig is feeling a bit flat ( 119k -- no issues ) so suggested he clean MAF sensor & complete the " insurance pack" -- would the correct steps be ( after clean sensor )
# 1 --fit boost & e t g gauges
# 2 --- fit blank off plate on emission port
#3 -- fit oil trap
He is electrical fitter so should be ok with testing -- how complex is gauge fitting -- is there much stripping down to get the gauge locations
correct ( welding /brazing ok) Thanks in advance Jim.
You mention a power loss? I went away this weekend and had a similar issue when driving back from Colac. After about 2 hours I began to struggle to get over 90 when towing a camper van. Is this what you've experienced. Mines a 4.5L dual fuel. Could the sensor be causing this?
Running like grap on Petrol at the moment anyway, but yes it did happen on both fuels. What do you mean be a code test? Excuse my ignorance.
EFI vehicles have the ability to identify faults within the engine management system and store fault codes relating to them. Retriving/reading fault codes can give you a clue as to where to start looking for the cause of the fault. Fault codes rarely tell you exactly what is wrong or what component to replace, ie. just because a code might say "exhaust gas oxygen sensor out of range" doesn't mean the EGO sensor is faulty, the fault may be something as simple as a leaking inlet manifold gasket.
Check this thread about reading fault codes; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...eading+erasing
Remember with ANY engine diagnostics, CHECK THE BASICS FIRST.
Tony
Thanks Tony, your post is really informative and easy enough a novice like myself should be able to follow.
Hi YNOT
Just a question.. What is the mass air sensor actually detecting?
and what is it controlling.
Why would it affect the engine power.
I am assuming you only get the MAF sensor on the 3.0 turbo so I'm guessing it has something to do with a fault on the turbo or blocked filter. which causes a loss of power.
Cheers John
MAF or AFM = mass air flow metre, or air flow metre.
sends signal to computer of actual airflow volume being ingested for the computer to determine fuel volume in relative time etc.
so if it's dirty or faulty incorrect info received by ECM and you have problems.
ECM= engine control module, "computer".
Only answered for Tony as I recon he's a very busy man.
Cheers
Interesting thread. My GUIV idles well but a bit roughly, especially when it drops into overdrive below 2000 rpm and I feel that I don't have enough power when I accelerate up certain hills on my journey to work. I would be fairly sure that the previous owner has never had the MAF cleaned. So if I do this can I expect:
*smoother engine through the range?
*improved fuel consumption?
YES on both counts if the maf is the cause.
Also, efi petrol throttle bodies can be a bit of a problem also.
Can usually be cleaned on car well enough to correct clear blockages but must be done with stone cold engine.
Cheers.
Thanks YNOT and and everyone contributing to this
Information like this, make (for me) the muddy waters of hitech motors a little less murky.
from a lo tech new comer.
Pete.
My sensor has no voltage on it, where is the fuse situated (which one is it?) that supplies power to the sensor?
G'day Bigrig,
I have a 2.8 TD GU Patrol, owned it now for 6 years. Recently had blown head gasket and 6 stuffed exhaust valves. Anyway, the point is, when she blew the coolant out, took her to 4WD workshop to evaluate what the prob was. The eng overheat warning had gone off and logged it'self on the pc.
After disconnecting the battery for 24 hrs, as everyone seems to advise, on reconnecting the fault was still there, at the end of the day, I had to visit the local auto elec who hooked up his computer and cleared the pc memory.
I was advised by him, the only way such logs can be cleared is with a pc hooked up and manualy deleted.
I witnessed everything he did myself, so am continuosly puzzled by comments that claim to delet faults by disconnecting battery.
mine seems to have no power some times, cleaned the mac but no difference. forgot to do reset though. second gear foot flat it just goes nowhere if revs are low. this normal?
Thank you YNOT! I have a problem, I could not find the sensor cleaner in the market over here... I live in Bolivia. Would you know of anyother "cleaner" that would do the job?
Hi all, Does anybody have some idiot proof instructions and advice for me on how to clean the MAF on a 1999 2.8.
Is it the same thing a the 3.0 info that YNOT kindly posted in this thread or something different ?
Please excuse ignorance - just learning, and thanks in advance for any info !
well i went out today to see if the MAF sensor was dirty or not
i installed the provent 200 catch can just before xmas ive drained a bit of oil of
a couple of times and thought id take a gander well well dry and clean as a new borns bum
it certianly works for me
HI Tony I have a 2005 gu with a ZD30 motor the maf part no is 22680 7S000, However the wire codes are different to those quoted by you , mine are looking from the front of the vehicle left to right
nothing, yell/blue,yell/gren,red,blk ie 5 connectors
Can you give me the voltages /details tks and rgds teago
Theres a 4 pin and 5 pin, I'll get you a part number for 5 pin $115 on fleabay
back again like magic, pt no on box is 22680-AD21A
Tks very much threedogs Cheers Teago
What if the red wire voltage reading is 13.8v?
That's what mine does. White is on 12 V which is the same as the battery voltage
Thought I had a MAF problem & acquired an engine management booklet. Free. Goodee.
Wiring diagram didnt show GU IV & then i realised YNOT had the colors worked out. Thank YNOT. Thought I was going to buy a MAF until I sorted the wires & colors out. Nissan want an exceptional quantity of $$$.
Adding a note from experience to this thread,
Thelma recently had a 'dirty MAF issue' and we cleaned, it. No fix. Replaced it, no fix. Replaced computer, no fix. For shits and giggles we put another new MAF sensor in and BINGO, fixed. So if it tastes, smells, feels like MAF - it probably is...
With problem solved Thelma runs like a new one and fuel efficiency is 7.5 to 8.5 L/100 ks. Very happy.
Thelma & Louise
Love your Provent 200, in the background. Just like mine & hundreds of others!
Great thread YNOT... thanks.....reading with interest as have had power issues with my 5/2007 ZD30 whilst towing the camper.
It seems to be OK when the weather is cool but as soon as the weather heats up (30+) its really bad, come to think of it its bad when not towing as well in the heat.
Do you think the heat be adding to the problem if the MAF needs cleaning?
@ lagoonboy. Try cleaning the MAF first. You should really do it on every service as a part of your routine.
thanks for this info, dont know whether mine has been cleaned or not, 150k on the clock, hopefully it was cleaned by the nissan blokes during the service.
g~day sorry for my lack of understanding my MAF shows......a..nothing,white,green/yel,green/yel,pink,black? i do not know what series it is?
regards Rob
Mine is the same as crysler above ....nothing,white,green/yellow,green/yellow,pink,black ...also my wires all have cuts in the insulation it appears that the nissan dealer did this to check voltages with a probe.....i cant get any voltage readings with my volt meter will try again...
Chrysler post up your series e.g GUIV, GUIII,GUII and your build date. 2000-2004 are 4 pins MAFs and 2004-2007 are six pins. CRD's I'm not sure of yet. There is some 5pin MAFs floating around which suit the 2000-2004, after market they are, still work but not really sure what the fifth wire is for...
Peps, still having issues mate. Just so you know I have a shipment of 2.8's and 3.0ltr MAF (4 and 6 pin OEMs, just not in OEM boxes) hopefully arriving this week. Bloody chinese new year and the world has to stop for them...
thanx for quick response 11/07 GU vi (6) auto .i`m actually in the proccess of buying a new sensor ..intown here at Geraldton WA they want ~$625 for the sensor alone. I can get 1 new overnight from perth for $210.00 Genuine. some times it`s "why buy local"
Rob