You can get other pumps that will allow fuel to be sucked through them if they stop. As Mark mentioned, the Carter needs a bypass check valve in the setup so the IP can suck fuel around it in case it stops working.
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You can get other pumps that will allow fuel to be sucked through them if they stop. As Mark mentioned, the Carter needs a bypass check valve in the setup so the IP can suck fuel around it in case it stops working.
Thanks Gents, Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]
Fast easy installation time might be of my greatest issue at the moment, although in saying that NT has its borders closed currently throwing a spanner in our work plans [emoji51]
I’ve done a little bit of a McGoogle search on others and are getting a bit lost on some of the features, some with pressure relief, some without and also relays maybe needed on some too?
Have found a Holley chart that appears to have 3 Mighty Mite models for diesel application that list allowing flow to pass through if they fail.
https://documents.holley.com/holleyf...tems_chart.pdf
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-428
Some Legends out there over on P4x4 appear to highly rate the Holley Red’s on their TD42’s and it looks like I may be able to get one from SCA down in Lilydale although they appear to be spec’d as Gasoline models which has me even more confused now [emoji848]
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/12-801-1
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...PO3827084.html
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I don't think the gasoline spec matters. The Carters are gasoline pumps. My petrol subtank pump transfers the diesel no problem.
Any decent pump will need to be run through a relay anyway.
It would be interesting to see how quiet the Holley pump is. The 4600 I have can be heard easily when standing next to it or behind the car. it doesn't really concern me just a thought really.
The differences may be in the seal materials. I use Aeroflow and they are sold specifically for petrol and then diesel applications. Have not had a problem with mine in 5 yrs use.
You want a pump that has high flow and 6-14psi of pressure. So anything like has been suggested, carter 4600 or 4601, Holly red etc etc. All these suggested ones will work with most fuels. Apart from when using special fuels like nitro and methanol etc most pumps will easily do petrol or diesel.
Thanks Again Gents, Really Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]
Just zipped over the hills to VPW in Epping to pickup a Holley Red but was informed they unfortunately would not warranty it used for a diesel application [emoji51]
Ended up purchasing the biggest of the 3 models Holley Mighty Mite (12-428) with 7-10psi /34 Gal./hr capability Gasoline/Diesel. Has vacuum pull through ability if it fails and was $88 inc GST, hope it holds up but warranty said given [emoji1696][emoji120]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/147.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/148.jpg
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How much did VPW sting you for that? interesting too, the 4600 is 100gph and the Holley is 34. But the Carter has 1-2 (circa) psi less. Wonder if this makes any difference to ye'old TD42?
It will if the engines gets lent on. The holley may not produce enough volume. It will be enough for the current application. For a warmed over TD I would use a carter 4601.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
$88 inc GST Mudski Mate and I’m only hoping for it to take some pressure off the poor old IP for this trip. Just need it to get me there and back and I’ll look to getting IP rebuilt when coin permits [emoji1696][emoji120]
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Must say it’s a fairly heavy little nugget of a thing unpacked just now, hopefully heavy means quality to get me temporarily back up over the massive mighty 60rwkw mark it mite [emoji1696][emoji120][emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/152.jpg
FWIW: Do NOT pull the little rubber bungs out of each end to blow test the inbuilt one way check valve …….it’s full of factory packaging oil and now all over the kitchen table…….idiot MB style[emoji2957][emoji12][emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/06/153.jpg
Interestingly within the installation instructions it suggests the optional Holley 12-810 Oil Pressure Safety Switch (petrol applications) to cut off supply when oil pressure drops below 5psi which I never knew such a safe guard existed:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-810
Thinking that when I’m finished with it and when time comes to properly fix up the old TD42 I might switch it over to the Daughters TB45 as whatever elecy pump is under its floor pan currently sounds like a million Bees [emoji219] buzzing and I’m not confident She’ll keep a proper eye on OEM dash warning lights [emoji3544]
Again, I really do appreciate your advice Craig, John, Ross, Mark, Andy, Phil & Mat Mates [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Your helpful posts have not fallen on deaf ears and I will build plan on a Carter pump in the future along with other TLC power upgrades Old Grandpa Spec deserves in the future.
Cheers Legends!!!!!
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FWIW (record keeping) :
Will fit the baby lift pump this week but did replace the $110 Zexel IP shutoff solenoid Friday morning before a quick weekend away up the mountains.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/07/20.jpg
Wacky own theory was for ruling out any slight chance of it possibly jamming say half way but didn’t appear once removed to have any spring sticking point tested even with near 30 YO wear marks [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/07/21.jpg
FWIW2: An absolute nightmare of an OEM design swap over whilst the IP is on the truck, an expected 15min job turned into over 2hrs [emoji2959][emoji23]
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You’ve just reminded me that one of the items on my list of things to fabricate is a dedicated spanner for that solenoid.
That’s exactly what it needs John Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
A 15/16” open end spanner head cut off with a 1/2” drive socket connection for a long extension drive up top above the intake manifold would make life shiploads easier next time [emoji736][emoji736]
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Isn’t it metric 24mm? I was thinking a thin walled 12 point ring but can’t really remember if a ring will fit over.
I’ll take a closer look at it
The 24mm I found slightly sloppy on it and kept trying to butcher the thing on the angle I was on initially, changed over to the 15/16” and was snug as [emoji106][emoji106]
Definitely can’t fit a ring spanner over it as is next to zero room on the back side unfortunately.
I ended up undoing the banjo on the hardline so I could lift it slightly to get the open ended spanner onto it at 90 degrees but then also had to remove 2 of the 3 accelerator cable mounting bracket bolts so I could swing it out of the way for quarter turns at a time. [emoji29]
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lookup crowsfoot socket . it might be what you need to get the job done .
Maybe a modified flare nut spanner
you can get crows foot flare nut sockets also
Had to look up the names of them both Thanks Legends (McGoggle images for me :-) but do agree both of them Top Tools Gents could definitely be modified to get the job done next time for us all for sure [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
As best as I can remember my nuffy In situ removal/replace seen no way of any ring type socket spanner that had beyond say 180 degree grip/wrap being able to overlap connect due to the pump’s top/side proximity on approximately 120 degrees of its circumference maybe? [emoji51]
Another issue found when trialling a standard ring spanner intially was that the + connection atop of the solenoid wouldn’t allow a ring to slip over due to its head room from pump casting also if that makes sense?
All I can say is that Mr Nissan (Injection Pump Division) back in the day never considered some poor Aussie Bloke/Sheila trying to remove and plug with a bung one of the few only things things that might stop a TD42 [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
“Carry a spare & a speciality McTool” that we can hopefully develop here Old School 4.2 Diesel Stinker Legends [emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
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I carry a spare solenoid so I need to be sure I have a method of easily (more or less) swapping it out. Once I have that I can be reasonably sure that I’ll never need it :)
Better safe than sorry Brother [emoji106][emoji106]
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Little budget Holley lift pump finally installed yesterday Gents on ‘Old Grandpa Spec Ute’ and can’t thank ya’ll enough again[emoji120][emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
Your tired injector pump advice must have been on the money as I’ve thankfully regained another half a gear to finally get back up over the top of the hills home in 4th again just holding dealer mini max 8psi Safari turbo just on [emoji322][emoji898][emoji106][emoji106]
So a quick history for myself too, same hill prior to replacing injectors was off turbo in 3rd and was worried that I might need to grab 2nd but just made it over.
Dyno tested after replacing injectors which clawed back half a gear yet had still dropped 12rwkw in 12 months since last run with then aggressive mud terrains/same diameter so in theory the loss was much higher found with now all terrains on.
At a best guess I’d estimate that you’ve thankfully got it back up over the 60rwkw mark and that’ll do us just fine for now Legends[emoji123] [emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
EDIT: For honest clarity should’ve added that the last two days in our valley home have been the crispest/coldest air all season but as diesel helpful seasonally known that’s at best 1/2 of new little lift pumps increase thankfully found.
Most noticeable is returned speed of acceleration on the valley flats is almost back but still running a further half a cog uphills tired IP than 12 months ago.
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Good when a plan comes together Mark, happy motoring
Cheers Philstar Mate [emoji106][emoji106]
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Good news to report, thankfully the old Grandpa Speccy GQ survived trailer lugging 2.0ish+Tonne up to work and back with a heap of leftover return gear/products packed on its poor old ute back too [emoji51]
Just over 9,600km and it only used a total of 40L of R4 Rimula X (15W40) [emoji23]
Zero exhaust smoke hot burning headwind hauling up the entire way, convinced now that modern oil new ‘Rimula’ consistencies don’t suit old clackers with far less than optimal piston rings [emoji23]
Will trial soon a Penrite (20W60-Mineral) closest I could find to OEM (50) specs and see if we can stretch out a rebuild longerer [emoji1696][emoji1696][emoji23]
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How many k's on that thing mate? You haven't done anything silly by boosting it have ya?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Clock says sub 400k Plassy Mate but when I started driving it noticed the odometer was intermittently seizing so who knows [emoji23]
Safari dealer whopping turbo tops 8psi snail trail as per above again:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/08/170.jpg
Poor old fella was once proper cooked (head replaced) before my time at the helm these days [emoji120][emoji106][emoji106]
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Geez thats a lot of oil. And no smoke? 2t tow, 80kmh that thing is happy. You dropping oil on the ground? Using mineral oil?
Heaps mate [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
The old boys control rings must be tired but when it’s singing at proper diesel temps up to and around 90C ++ it eats up runny oil like a two stroke mix [emoji51]
Next tests will hopefully tell the true tale of aging diesels and thicker dickhead like me needs at 50+ mineralogy theory’s [emoji23]
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Test results in finally for the old clacker TD42 since changing over to 20W-60 mineral.
400km up and down local highway hills hauling 2.0T for say 80% of that time.
Around 300ml used versus something like 5 times that on both Valvoline & Shell Rimula X R4 15W-40 last tests.
Donk is still obviously tired but can only assume from consumption results that this will hopefully save me a heap of dollars on oil expenditure whilst saving up for a rebuild [emoji1696][emoji1696]
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