Cross country 4X4 sell a grenade kit which worthy of aq look. http://www.crosscountry4x4.com.au/
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Cross country 4X4 sell a grenade kit which worthy of aq look. http://www.crosscountry4x4.com.au/
On teleman: I'm interested on your driving habits so i may adopt also to avoid the grenade issue. May you discuss also if you have blocked the egr or have been using a modified GU. the type of fuel you use. Thank you.
That's good to know not all zd30s are bad. Maybe you were using clean fuel all the way.
Your better off getting all the bits separately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Schenck
- Dawes from me.
- Needle valve from Dependable distributors in Adelaide for $93.50. I'm currently testing numerous, cheaper valves out...
- Catch catch from Ebay, Provent 200, DON"T get the kit with the hoses, get them from your local hose place. Much cheaper.
- Boost and EGT gauge/s. MUST be done first.
- EGR plate, from me..
hi yeah I am a newby here, but i find it interesting to note the "hand grenade theory" No one has mentioned the recall on the early zd30's in patrols, which consisted of oil capacity, service intervals, breathers and from memory the PCV valve. I saw a few failures in the early days and a bit later and some of them could also be contributed to the MAF sensor but these were ussually caused by an aftermarket dry paper filter that did not do it's job very well. they were always covered in dust and threw up codes in the nissan Consult diagnostic tool. But in saying that people got sick of replacing the OEM air filter that would pick up dust from another State and clog up. My one word of advise is if you are going to buy an early ZD 30 patrol have a look in the handbook at the capacities chart and if it has a sticker over it (eng oil and service intervals don't touch it) this is only in Aus I think
yes I was a niss mech when these came out
Hey Boys
I have just brought a 07 3.0 from a mine it has 40k on the clock and its limited to 25 kmph at the monent would you's recommend that i do the mods on it before i put it on the road
Common rail diesels are fine, but fitting boost and EGT guage wouldn't hurt so you can see whats going on,
Cool thanks threedogs we had a lot of trougble with oil quilitys whislt i was at Holden but once you found the right oils there wasnt a issue with carbon and blow by
New to the forum, and looking forward to some great discussions.
I have an '06 GUIV Patrol 3.0.
One thing I would like to know is, out of the major petrol companies, is there one considered the best for diesel>
I was under the impression the Shell was the best for petrol and used it where possible for my old X-Trail, but don't know about diesel.
Thanks in advance.
BP say there diesel is cleaner however I don't think there's any real difference between it and the Caltex/ Shell product. I would however steer clear of 'bio'. I'm no expert here but have done some reading and bio might not burn as clean as real diesel.
As a precaution I wil be fitting a Water Watch separator shortly. It's a bit expensive but cheaper than a blown motor ..... that's just my bit! Incidentally .... great forum!
PS: for the moment, when outback, I fill a Jerry using a Mr Funnel. If there's no residue in the funnel filter I then fill the GU directly from the pump. No problems so far.
Hi all im new to 4x4ing and have just purchaced a 2008 patrol ex-britz camper 3.0l turbo diesel 175000kms.
so far i,ve worked out i need a boost controller, a 3in exhaust, and someone mentioned getting a dawes valve
so my question is am i on the right path before i go spending $$$ or do i only need simple mods to keep it reliable???
me and the cook have planned a trip around aussie next year we dont go extreme off roading but will be doing a lot of
dirt tracks any advice would be great.
cheers
Womble
Not too bad with the common rail, first mod is pillar pod with boost and EGT , best thing you can do. At least then you'll know whats going on. Dawes is $45 from 3barracing in the states and the needle valve is about $90 from Dependable distributers in Sth Aust.
You'll also need a Provent200 catch can, and EGR blanking plate. PM Ferret for info on that
Do the gauges first as mods like 3" Zorst will increase boost
Ok, it sounds like Series 3 is the safest bet to beat the grenading issue. Can someone please suggest what month or year the series 3 were introduced, how is it you can see patrols for sale listed as 2004 while descibed as MY2003.
Think mainly early 2000s , 2003 on seemed a tad better but some went boom. NADs if affordable and well worth it.
use the search engine up the top RHS of this page, threads from Chaz Yellowfoot [guru] explain everthing.
this place is awsome!
Correct!! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Pukie83
Thanks for the comments guys just brought 07crd.
Hi guys
Just out of interest what is the latest year people have heard of a 3l packing it in?
Ive had a bit of a look around and cant seem to find anything passed an 03 model going bang..
Does this Mean Nissan finally got there S*#t together and fixed it after that?
thanks
Mark
Nope, Nissan didn't get it, ZD30 is still the ticking time bomb (grenade)Quote:
Originally Posted by markp90
In the last couple of months two 2005 GU4 series expired, one with 260,000 km on the clock with all stock engine. Another one was around 180,000 km and NADS put in 20,000 km earlier. According to Nissan dealer/insider anything you get over 140,000 km is a bonus!
Other week it was another 2004 GU4 series apparently.........
There are no safe Di ZD30s, they just last a little bit longer than the earlier ones (2000-2003). On another note; there is this 08 CrD with the same piston melted failure this time its number one piston (EGR entry point is on the front cylinders for ZD30 CrD). Not sure what to think anymore.......
Deal with it.
Cheers
You will always hear of a few motors blowing up no matter what brand. There is thousands of Patrols out there cruising around without missing a beat.Quote:
Originally Posted by markp90
I've seen a few on my travels with 300k + towing big caravans and the owners totally oblivious to any issues with them. They just keep going. You will find when something goes wrong people will get on the forum to vent so you see high concentration of owners with problems on forums. I don;t doubt there was an issue with the early GU's but unless we know the actual percentages of failures we will never know how wide spread the issue was.
Stating every 3.0l is a time bomb including the CRD is just ridiculous...lol Any brand vehicle will have failures, that is life.
Find anything recent in you price range and just go and enjoy!
Like the Toyota v8 td is a bucket of poo. Mates parents are into horses horses and tow floats. Many people bought them and failed. As nisshead said look how many patrols are doing the rounds and how many members here have them and going strong. Not every breakdown is the grenade problem either. Just because a maff fault injector or pump problem or fuel issue has been reported doesn't mean it grenades. Every modern diesel has its problems ask the Mazda and ford boys about cracking heads etc.
Agree with you there, I personally know more people who have had Toyota's with blown up 1HZ's but everyone seems to think ZD30's are the devil. Oh well, mines been pretty good so far!
Someone asked earlier about MY (model years). Manufacturers do updates that are called MY2003 etc, these breakpoints can be made anytime they please which means you can have a MY2003 which was actually built in 2002, or you could have a MY2003 which wasn't registered until 2004 so that's what it will say on the Rego sticker.
I think car manufacturers brought the MY style of dating in to get rid of the problem of having left over stock of the previous model and then not being able to sell them.
I worked at Holden for 6 yrs and from memory the change over was towards the end of the yr, i think there may be some sort of law that controlls it.
Holden used to always do it from September but now it's just whenever they feel like it. For a while it got out of hand with MY2008, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10. Then they gave the half model year updates the flick (thank god cause it made my job a nightmare).
It's normally done to time a lot of changes that need to be coordinated together. These targeted dates change all the time so it's too hard to make it exactly on the change of calendar year.
i have a gu zd30 y61 series 2, with 130,000 kms on it, so far i have never experienced any many faults with it. during the 130,000 kms (10 yrs already) i replaced the clutch once, fan belt and tensioner 2x, and replaced the oil gasket just a preventive measure. i got a busted leaking radiator upon reaching 126,000 kms. i also installed a turbo timer, oil catch and a front mount intercooler, bloww off valve. i also have a dtronic chip, im also running on jaos mags 315/75/16. im planning to install a 3 inch exhaust system soon.
Is this specific to any particular region/operating conditions or is the non-CRD ZD30 a problem regardless of which country and driving style etc? Just asking as looking to acquire a 2003/04/05 Y61 in the UK...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
It may be more specific to Australia perhaps than UK due to much hotter conditions and it seems the mainly affected are non CrD unit.
There is also a difference to Euro specs to Australian units e.g. EGR is water cooled on European models unlike the AU unit.
It is still a lottery if you ask me but it wouldn't stop me if I really wanted the Patrol.
Choose your poison carefully.
Cheers
Also Toyota are having problems with the new Hi lux diesel Blowing up. Very hush hush but blow up they do
due to faulty washers on the injectors. 100s tojos front end snapping off, new V8 diesel drinking way too much oil.
My 4x4 is MAY 04 GU S3 build nearly done 200K only one problem that was my fault, now its nadded so expect
another 200k out of it
And possibly driving type and distance, and even maybe fuel quality variance?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Yes, just trying to get my head around the various service manuals and which ones are specific to which world territories.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
And I'm pleased to say it won't stop me either, especially as I feel reasonably well informed on what to look for and what to watch out for, as well as what to change "just in case"... ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Cheers, Garry
Does anyone know how much all the precautionary mods cost?
About 4hunge for the lot should be about right. Including gauge/s. Also depending if your doing the work too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4WD DUDE
I was not going to do the whole NADS thing.... But now it's done.. I cannot believe the difference in performance. My Troll just wants to keep pulling..... about to do a 1500KM run with my camper in tow... cannot wait to see how she performs now..... Take it from me... I am the biggest sceptic when is comes to these things.... Like to leave things as the factory intended, but so glad I done the NADS... You just have to do it.....
Looks like I might need a new intercooler.. but thats on the wish list right now....
You'll be glad you changed your intercooler, its chalk and cheese imo,
EG. How can you maintain boost if its leaking ??????
Your fuel figures will improve as well, check out the Vendor thread for Diesel Smart C/O intercoolers
does upgraded intercooler lower EGT's ?
Yeah. Lower the egt's faster when letting off the gas and also when on the gas they would be slightly lower depending on size and flow rate of the ic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limmy
Hey mudski, can you explain why the egt and boost guages need to be done first? Cheers mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Gday coogs, any idea what the diesel in Darwin is like?Quote:
Originally Posted by Coogs
Contacted DS today and got an email back stating that they don't do them anymore..... Bugger.....Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Back to the drawing board
Just noticed a tiny leak on my IC. Was originally gonna clean it but now think it's time for replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by rochjas
Diesel smart have a common rail one on eBay, was surprised they told you they don't do a CRD one. Considering getting one.
Is it true that y61 zd30 engine is not good at high speed which cause blown/crack head?well i got 2 friend that have the same engine as mine its been 10-11years and they aint got any overheating,blown gasket or crack head..because they dont drive over 100km/h ..mine just got top overhaul last week..i think its because i push the car too hard on the highway like 140km/h lately..