ps, hoping that bigguwesty Kallen will chime in since he is nearby for a guide as to which places to help with exhaust/pyro bung etc
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ps, hoping that bigguwesty Kallen will chime in since he is nearby for a guide as to which places to help with exhaust/pyro bung etc
Yeah bugger. My 3ltr was the same. Anything over 16psi I got limp mode. There is volt mod tricks you can do to the maf to overcome limp mode. Never done it but plenty have with success. A remap will do this too but for the price of a remap, no thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Lana if your intercooler is the original. Have a real close look at it for leaks. If you have any boost leaks at all, no matter how small, there is no chance of setting up the valves. Do you need a weld in bung for the exhaust pyro? I have 1/8 npt weld in bungs. If you want one, let me know via eBay messaging before 12pm Friday and I'll chuck one in.Quote:
Originally Posted by shantillylais
Thanks for your order too. Its greatly appreciated.
that's a nice offer thank you mudski but yes I have one. I am also making enquiries about a intercooler upgrade even tho' there doesn't seem to be any leaks at this point.
the kit arrived today mudski super quick thanks, have the pyro in now, taking it for a spin this afternoon to see what its doing before I start on the install of the kit. thanks again.
mudski sending you a pm, hope its ok.
after a hic-up with my pyro, took it for a cruise down the highway at 100km on cruise. Boost was varying all over, but mostly around 15psi, pyro was about 300.
then took it up our one and only hill, about 75m rise over a 1km distance, so reasonably steep.
on cruise at 110km, pyro hit 475, and boost was 22, but dropped back to 10 as I got almost to the top of the hill. I lost maybe 5km/hr up the hill but wanted to see how it went basically standard except for the exhaust.
next step will be the dawes and needle, and where to put the needle for ease of adjustment.
Lana, Did you get around to installing the dawes and needle valve and would be interested in what boost values you acheived with no limp.Quote:
Originally Posted by shantillylais
With the passing of time, good info from this forum, other place along with a better understanding of my CRD manual boost control, I am satisfied with current run result:Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Just did a trip to mtns total climb 600m over 150km run (some decent long hauls) getting max boost 17/17.5 psi at 100k/h (2500 rpm) and holding that boost level as revs decreased and where the speed did occasionally increase (long haul), the max boost went to 18psi @ 2800rpm. Cruise boost @ 100k/h (slight load) of 15-16psi. EGTs, cruise say 325-400 degC and on long haul solid work 600-680 odd deg C. Lower cruise boost with OEM ecu mapping proves to be too sluggish for me. Did some low range work, the torque increase and response at low revs is impressive compared to before NADS install. Next will likely do ECU remap.
Also, I use a throttle control unit that does effectively reduce throttle lag and provides real time quicker pwr response but it is worth noting that the rate of response differential is not as noticeable now since NADS install but remains effective and do adjust it for various driving conditions.
Successful Manual Boost adjust for Stock ECUKallen, ECPT returned my ECU yesterday as they did a postal remap of my 08 CRD stock ECU. I have set Dawes to provide a Max Boost of 21psi with needle closed (No limp to date hauling). ECPT recommend 20-22 psi Max Boost and state that the AFR will be around 22:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Cruise Boost From what I am observing, I can confidentially achieve a 6-7 psi drop for cruise boost but I feel it is too laggy low down in revs. Question: Should I adjust the needle valve in the same manner as was done for the stock ecu as you advised?Thanks, JohnQuote:
open the needle until the turbo arm just floats off the adjustment screw..
It's a fine balance act that's for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Try closing needle a little. It'll increase the curzing boost a bi t but also make it a bit perkier down low.
However have a look over the vacume system. Make sure all the hoses are in good order. When working with big boost you want full vacume to play with..
Vac/Boost plumbing all good.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Remapped ECU and set Dawes max boost 21psi.
Went for a run up the mnts (400ks rnd trip), consisting steep/winding solid hauls (some climbs 3rd and 4th gear holding max boost 21psi), hwy cruising and low range stuff.
EGTs before remap were reasonable good with NADS but have noticed further improvement (especially at higher load conditions hauling). Say now 550 down from 580degC (hauling).
No boost spikes or limp what so ever. Good run.
Now have needle in cab and adjust on the fly.
Start of trip, felt it was a bit laggy hauling, started to close needle and really felt when the turbo kicked in and boost came into play. Found the needle positioned at 1.2 turns off seat (solid hauling) but opened up to 1.5 – 2 turns on hwy to get the cruise boost down to 15/16psi.
Fuel usage (veh camped up 3.2 tonne) 13.8 lt/100kms, was 14.5lt/100kms prior to remap (similar drive).
Boost runs at 21 psi most of the time, when ever above 2200rpm (same with any loads above slight), does drop right away when load removed.
Is this due remap profile or typical behaviour?
Plenty of pwr so maybe drop max boost 19-20psi? (thinking of turbo life and possibly reduce cruise boost)
Low down torque between 1600/1800-2000 rpm seems to have reduced and the 3” Xpipe is not as throaty low down or under high load as it was prior to remap. Wondering why.
Can low down torque be improved? (notice it off road)
First up is it crd or Di??Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Yes it's typical of remap, and more boost.
Don't drop the boost or your AFR's (air fuel ratio) will be out and rich, which will decrease power and increase EGT's.
Yes low torque can be improved but it has to be done with remap.
More fuel down low will make turbo spool quicker and more power..
Mine 2008 CRD.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
ECU remap EGTs (degC) cruise @ 100ks 280-375, lazily poking around below 300s, med load 400-450, High loads 500, ringing it 580(yet to see higher with remap).
So turbo life will be OK running mostly 21psi.
ECPT recommends for remap -MaxB 20-22psi for AFR 22:1. Harley(ecpt) sent me a message and will speak Monday.
Yea Harley knows his stuff. I'd nearly make the trip across to see him with mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
So being crd mate we don't need spool control..
So what I'll be doing once remapped is running a open / close solenode on the needle valve.
So when the valve is closed you get max boost and max spool rate.
Then when cursing you can flick a switch and open the valve so needle valve comes into affect. That way you can open the valve more to reduce the cursing boost but still get full power at a flick of the switch..
But those egts sound great atm..
As for turbo life....
Look it's a blind stab. Some last forever at those specs and higher. Some spin the shafts out due to shaft speed.
They are a small turbo.... and 22psi is it's limits.
They'll go higher but there is only so much air you can push threw a straw..
Have a chat to Harley though about the low torque.
He'll sort it.
if it looks at all a little bit oily [intercooler] its leaking they all do just check Hodges thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by shantillylais
Being a 3ltr a big IC is just a waste of money to me money which could be spent elsewhere
maybe towards a front locker
Like to say G'day threedogs.
Yeh, read some good info posted by yourself, relevant in my adventures re: full NADS install (CRD), fitted an ADRAD import tig welded I/C. Now on remap journey. Thanks mate. Bidja was my best mate (kelpie with me 11 yrs), had to say goodbye short while back, have three others (kelpies) to help out. Saw yours, provide great suport and company. All the best.
Forum provides a lot.
Yeh, will chat to Harley, probably go catch up at Tuggerah (4.5 hrs) for me. Like to play some more and understand control / performance with my hand first.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Very interested in getting info on solenoid type /part # etc. Guess fit between needle and resonator air box. Have read a bit on the forum of solenoid use.
We spoke previously on acheiving max spool rate (and to set dawes/max boost), have run with needle closed and opened slightly prior to remap with great results.
Happy with EGTs.
with your drop pipe or Cat buy a high flow, I havent read your complete thread so dont know what you have.
Get it ceramic coated I highly recommend it over wrapping it it will keep un wanted heat out of the cabin,wont cost an arm or a leg but once done forgotten an keeps heat where it should be in the pipe, have a quick read up on thermal dynamics, sound difficult but simple in application.
I run a turbo beanie for the same reason with good results
08 CRD NADS install - Dawes/needle valve, 3" Berkley SS high flow exhaust (turbo back), EGR solid plate (fitted at exhaust manifold), ProVent 200 CC, VDO gauge: EGT Pryo (dump pipe), Boost (mech), Oil Press (elec). TIG welded new ADRAD I/C. ECU remap.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Will have a read up on the pipe over wrapping (is this dump pipe?) and turbo beanie.
Also if its an auto run it in normal not overdrive it will get the gas out faster
Can you give a heads up mate on solenoid type /part # etc. Guess fit between needle and resonator air box. Have read a bit on the forum of solenoid use.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Yea you basically want a 2 port solenode like below.. but to site your fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Then yea fit between needle valve and res box.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F362128747272
Thanks mate and note that they handle temp down to -10degC suits well.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty