Top idea threedogs , just remember they need an air gap.
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Top idea threedogs , just remember they need an air gap.
Im using the 10watt at home in Manland to run the AM/FM MP3 player it keeps my 18ahQuote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
golf buggy/Jet ski battery topped up all the time. nice and light in its own small battery box.
Ive found the 18AH battery has enough powder for all my LED flood lights at camp
for a long week end. I have enough lights similar to the Queen Mary but dont use all
as one is more than enough, They are up high Id say about 3mtrs so plenty of light
and not in your face. Plus if need be I can take the battery pack and light poles down
to the river edge if the bite is on. Then I have a 115ah in the patrol and another 100ah in my camper.
Back to the 10watt thats just to keep the start battery moving. lol
Still have an 80 watt and a 120 folding panel if I need them, but pretty much have my
power use under control,,
Sometimes I even use red LED at camp great on tired eyes lol
Probably ok for 'The Prez' who reputedly never goes off road, but for anyone who drives in places where they tend to get a bit of 'bush pinstriping' the panels mounted in that way would be a liability, just waiting to snag something I reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Re testing of solar panels - yep they are pretty tough items, although they can get smashed. They test them with a standard sized(?) ball bearing dropped from one metre.
Re 'enough solar'. Probably the best advice for anyone considering setting up a solar system from scratch is to consider what equipment they want to run BEFORE even thinking about how much solar/battery/ charger capacity is required, & as part of that process to select equipment which will do the job based on lowest current draw. Pretty much anything which is designed to heat something is, imho, unsuitable for battery use & there are far better alternatives eg. gas/diesel/engine heat. (Surprisingly one exception to this is electric blankets which work well & draw little power - 240v off a small inverter work better than direct 12v). I recall a while back, when getting those Travel Buddy ovens was popular among forum members here, suggesting that they were really only suitable for use whilst driving - ie powered from the alternator.
There are different ways to set up a solar system depending upon intended usage. For me it was essential to have a system which could power us indefinitely without need for mains or generator. To that end we needed enough solar to cover our usage & to return the batteries to 100% full (float) every 24 hour period, (a balanced system) plus to have sufficient battery capacity to sustain us through periods of crap weather without need to break camp & drive. As yet that capacity has never been fully tested, but I estimate we could stay put for 10 days before our battery capacity was getting below 50% & we needed to drive to re-charge. A significant part of achieving that was to be very selective with what equipment we choose to run. The two fridges & the laptop are our biggest power users, but that may change in the near future as I have just been diagnosed with severe sleep apnea & will now have to travel with a CPAP machine which can use 60 to 100 amp hours per night! Thankfully I know folk who travel & who have already been down this path & have directed toward a machine which runs direct off 12v & uses a max of 35Ah per night (or only 10Ah if the humidification isn't needed). Our system will have to be worked a bit harder but should cope ok. (Whether I'll cope with having to become an elephant man crossed with Hannibal Lector every night is another matter!).
Good luck with that Cuppa , I'm dodging the cpap machine like the plague which is probably not a good idea but if I go in my sleep I won't know about it .
As for solar , it's like horsepower and towing something , the heavier the load your towing the more horsepower you need .
Tested my 600 watt system on the van with an overcast sky and gave the numbers to the company I bought them off
( batteries were going flat for some reason ) , they wanted them back because they weren't supposed to work that good under a cloudy sky .
Turns out one battery was shagged the one I didn't replace when I set the dual system up .
You lose a lot of efficiency with solar as you've pointed out Cuppa , depending on conditions .
A panel rated at 100 watt , will only give 100 watt in a controlled lab not in the real world , but a decent set of panels with the right wattage will still give something useful if the day is overcast , how long for depends on usage .
Getting a bit off topic here but............ it ain't the risk of not waking up which worries me (worries my wife though), it's the waking up with brain damage plus the added risk of stroke.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Oh , hadn't thought of that .
I am looking at this https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/komodo-...m_medium=email. Pretty cheap and putting it with the Redarc bcdc1225d. I looked at the redarc between $500 and $700. Bit pricey for me.
Seems ok , price is at cheaper end of scale for sure , if you do get it make sure you check all connections are ok , many cheap panels have dodgy connections but are easy fixed .
my usual company for getting cheap stuff is called " Sunyee" .
The online sellers who I know have consistently had good things said about their panels over a number of years are Bit Deals, who sell 'Rich Solar' panels and Low Energy Developments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Covo71
I have a Rich Solar panel among other ebay cheapies on my car. The Rich Solar starts charging earlier & stops later in the day than the others & is much more tolerant of shading.
If buying a 'kit', be aware that the cabling will be too thin, & should be used to tie your tomatoes up. Replace it with decent thickness cable - see the chart on this page for sizing the cable . The rear of a panel is a far from ideal spot to mount the regulator - you will get more charge into the battery if the regulator is close to the battery, not the panel. They get put on the panel with 'kits' for convenience, not efficiency. Efficiency is important with solar. If you can afford it, treat your batteries to a better regulator than comes with most kits. Something worthwhile doesn't have to cost an arm & a leg, I like Morningstar regs. This one would would be nicer to your battery than any of the kit supplied ones & would handle 160w of panel. With folding panels for portable use be aware of size & weight. Personally I reckon 120w (2 x60w) is about as big & heavy as it's practical to lift in & out of a vehicle & lug around.
Well in the spirit of off topic ;)
This must be the CPAP club! I was also diagnosed with severe sleep apnea 3 weeks ago, and have now joined the ranks of the hose noses! My machine arrives from the USA next week for about $800 cheaper than buying it here. I have been wondering about whether to go with a 12volt power adapter for mine or just buy an inverter, I am now leaning towards an inverter though as I'd prefer to use the humidifier component with it.
Wise advice Cuppa , to add to that what I've done on the folding panel is a small amount of silastic to stop cords from flexing back and forth into the regulator , just a small dab on the wire and fix to the back of the panel .
I think going just the panel and using the redarc so I can charge off the car as well would be the way to instead of a kit.
Me too, my reading was 75.4 per hour..... start my 4 week cpap trial on Tuesday hooooray. Let us know how the travel ones go, as I might well have to do the same for longer breaks awayQuote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Will do @Clunk, be a little while yet, I'm booked in for an overnight CPAP titration sleep test thingo next week. I'll be buying from the US. Cheaper, as I don't have health insurance & the model I want isn't available here. It's a later model Devilbiss which is a bit quieter, uses less power (does that make this on topic?) & runs on a plain, easily replaced 12v lead & has a reasonably small footprint with humidifier attached (about the same as a 2 litre ice cream tub). There are a couple of smaller travel ones but both have 'issues' I wouldn't be happy about. Some of the others can be plugged into 12v, but actually run at 24v so have to incorporate a voltage converter either in the lead or in the machine, so end up drawing quite a lot more battery power. Check out the power specs of the later Devilbiss in their manual. A friend has been using one with the humidifier in his Oka for around a year now & is very happy with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
You're the 2nd person to mention a 4 week trial. The other person mentioned they had had one & that it was free Nothing about that has been said to me. How do you access it?
75.4 AHI is high. Under 5 is normal & over 30 is considered 'Severe'. Mine was 43.1 with the longest apnea lasting 81 seconds. That's a long time to stop breathing for & my overall oxygen saturation levels was 89%, but dropped as low as 78%. This desaturation was described as 'profound'. A couple of people including one who's daughter is a Resmed engineer, tell me I'm well within brain damage territory!
All seems a tad dramatic but I guess it's better to know & have the opportunity to do something about it than to not know.
I'm in the 3rd week of a 4 week trial, it wasn't free though. Cost was $400 for the 4 weeks and they give you an option to buy the machine off them at a supposed discount at the end. I have private health but of course it didn't cover the machine. It did cover the Private hospital and sleep study though. I just thought the 4 week trial was all part of it. The same mob that did the sleep study does the 4 week thing, so this set my scam detector off a bit!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
My Oxygen levels dropped to 73% with an AHI of 44 and was diagnosed with asthma also (Been a long term smoker, but quit 4 months ago), so scary stuff. I've been a bit disappointed that I haven't seen instant results from the CPAP, but my AHI has now dropped to 0.9 so I guess its working? This getting older sucks knobs! The power use doesn't concern me a lot as we rarely camp more than one night in the same place. if need be, I'll throw another battery in to cover the use.
@Cuppa yes it was directed to "Prez"@DXgrunt only as a suggestion.
DXgrunt knows where and what type of driving he intends to do so
mounting them on the pod doors could work for "him". I did not suggest
every Pod owner to mount them on their doors.
They actually make flat , flexible panels these days which I'm assuming can be mounted without the airgap needed for others .
I have had people ask me if I'm worried about the solar panel getting hit by a stone on the front of the GQ , lucky for me god put a stone magnet in the form of a Windshield in front and so far this has been 100% effective .
Ha ha, very good! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Based on what I’ve been told by others you need to be careful with what ‘flexible' panels you buy if intending on mounting them to a rigid structure. There have been numerous failures with the ’semi flexible’ thin panels which have an aluminium backing - avoid them like the plague. When they get hot the backing expands at a different rate to the cells mounted on it & destroys the panel’s functionality. Those with a plastic back are reported to be better, although it may still be advisable to mount them onto a layer of corflute or similar rather than direct onto a metal surface.
Fully flexible panels (designed to be unrolled for each use ) are a different product.
Im thinking the "good" flexible panels are better suited to a marine enviroment
Does anyone know the correct way to fit these connectors.
Some Ive fully soldered but that doesn't seem right.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-MC4-S...gAAOSw-zxWnC3A
I didn't solder mine on the 600 watt setup , to me they're the same sort of thing as tv coaxial cable .
In future if I come across these buggers you can buy an adaptor from that to Anderson which is the way I will do it .
All my other setups I have just cut those plugs off and joined in longer wires (soldered) then put Anderson on other end and or directly wired into solar regulator.
Haven't had any trouble with this setup yet but now I know they sell adaptors I will use them instead .
This article suggests soldering is acceptable if you don’t have the correct crimping tool. Like GQtdauto I’ve generally used anderson plugs, (& thicker cables than the MC4 can accomodate).Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
http://www.sustainablesolutions.co.n...mc4-connectors
I have Anderson but on some thread they said that these MC4 were the go.
Its only for short run of say 5mtrs tops
MC4 connectors are waterproof and are easier for connecting multiple panels together , but for single setups I don't really think it matters which way you go .
This is the one I use at camp, having LED flood lights makes battery power last muchQuote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
longer, very happy with that
Very nice setup threedogs , I used an old plastic screw container to house my regulator from the elements but yours looks much more professional and way neater .
I drilled some holes in the side for ventilationQuote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Yeah did similar but mine in the bottom of container
I have a 50 amp anderson plug on the front bar to plug in a panel.
that feeds the AUX battery, nothing comes off the start battery,
it only has one job and thats to start
It also has one of those blue watt meters as well
Are you happy with the controller? It looks similar to the one I saw at Jaycar. 30a MPPT controller $259. Obviously not as robust as the redarc but if sealed like you have it heaps cheaper.
I also have front and rear Anderson plugs but do have all three batteries connected , crank is through a redarc isolator .Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Dragged the camper out today and gave it a wash and repositioned the 200 watt solar panel to rear half of folding roof , noticed when the clouds were covering the sun I still had 14.1 showing on the meter and later when the sun was shaded by a totally shaded by a tree the reading was 14.2 so more than happy with that .
That controller was only about $40 from memory. Its been running non-stop in the back yard poweringQuote:
Originally Posted by Covo71
my 18ah battery in Manland running a 12v radio. I just un-hook it if I go away
Ive brought the crimping tool to suit these MC4 connectors
so if @jaysee need to use them
or anyone else they are here,,,lol
My MTTP solar reg arrived ,,that didnt take long at all
got a bit of weight about it to, now to find a safe place
to mount it in the engine bay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20A-MPPT-...3D282369433834
@GQtdauto what are the spare two wires on the reg that show a light globe symble??
Is it just to show you are working??? LOL
Have 200 watt panel on the camper with a 20 amp regulator , have a 40 watt panel on the GQ with an 8 amp regulator but thinking of splitting the folding 100 watt portable unit and mounting it on the roof rack , ( need more solar now I'm running two spare gel cells in the GQ ) .
Portable panels I think also has a 20 amp regulator .
So what I'm thinking of doing is connecting the three panels on the roof rack together to give me 140 watts and run that to one of the 20 amp regulators which I will put close to the battery in the rear of the GQ .
When driving with the camper on I usually connect it's own 200 watt panel to the trailer Anderson plug , not to the back of the GQ .
But if I wanted to connect all four panels together for 340 watt not sure how to go about it or even if it's worth the trouble , any ideas .
You connect the 200w panel to the other 3 in the same way you have connected the three together. Keep them all connected together in parallel & the nominal voltage will remain 12v. The regulator will just ‘see’ a 340w panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
I had a 125w panel on top of my driving cab before I added the others. Easy way was to use an Anderson Power block
Thanks cuppa , had no idea they made a power block , will need a bit of think on how I do the systems and keep them seperate or if required hooked together .
By the look of it just means a few extension type leads and maybe a switch or two , haven't struck a blow yet but now I know about the Anderson block it will make life easier .
Think I've got it nutted out , I need a regulator on the GQ and on the Camper , each system should be able to function on its own , ie 140 watt on GQ and 200 watt on camper .
But if I want to pull up stumps for a bit I want to be able to have the full 340 on one or the other regulator which gives me a redundancy if one regulator decides to shit itself .
I can do this by disconnecting and connecting an Anderson plug either end of system or get fancy and put in two relays either side and some switches .
I will look into the relays option because I'm lazy and it makes life easier .
Even if a reg becomes U/S all you need do is disconnect your panels at nightQuote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
so you dont lose your stored power through the panels, I used my 80 watt panel
like that for years without a hitch
Thanks TD but most solar panels have a diode in between the connections on the back of the panel which I think is there to prevent power going back to the panel , power can only travel one way (out) .
Still nutting out realestate / what's going on roof rack .
Want solar panels ,pole carrier , 4x 10 litre jerry cans , chainsaw and firewood to fit up top , then comes the fun with wiring it all in which I'm not looking forward to but when I get to that stage I'm nearly finished that bit .
I bought one of these mppt controllers. I think it was $23 of fleabay. I just need to get a panel now and hook it up and see how it goes. For $23 if it is shit it isn't the end of the world. Fingers crossed.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs