sounds like a good plan ,been hearing they are a biatch to get off some timesQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
did it occur to you to loosen it when it was on the grass,,,lol
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sounds like a good plan ,been hearing they are a biatch to get off some timesQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
did it occur to you to loosen it when it was on the grass,,,lol
Ìm going to go back to this. High EGT will result in higher water temps.... I was driving my Patrol yesterday and I noticed myself subconsciously looking at the EGT's rising as I was going up a steep hill and then watching the water temps also rise. The both drop as I came off the top of the hill.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I then remembered back, driving up the coast with the camper and knowing exactly when the water temps would start to climb just going by the EGT's. For mine, it was when the EGT's passed 260c the water temps would go up, and go up by 5degs by every 30 EGT's or there abouts...
This has a lot to do with cooling system condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
In older systems it makes total sense to see water raise with egts. The engine is working harder, and hotter so the water would be heating up..
But if your cooling system is in good nick you may notice nothing.
I've seen 650 on the egts yet water temp didn't budge off the normal 89-91 range. .
@growler2058 where you up to or too busy elsewhere ?? lol
Just nursing it till I get a day off. Temp status 88C driving on flat ground at 100. Will have a go at getting the egt on again todayQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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Yeah you may, but may not too. The cooling system in mine is better than stock and i see fluctuations. But its a totally different motor so its kinda null comparing mine to this.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Get the egt gauge in first i reckon and it may show us something.
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That is also true lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Taken the dawes and needle off and STILL running HOT!
So indeed, you mentioned the cooling system was worked on recently? I know for the fact that ZD30 cooling system is very difficult to purge of the air unless done correctly. However that shows up very quickly or can, you may wanna investigate that too.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I can have 500°C EGTs on uphill climb at 100 km/h and coolant temps will not go over 92°C at 40°C ambinet temps.
So for those of you getting coolant temp rise withm the rise in EGTs the cooling system is marginal at best. ZD30 radiator size is good enough for LS2 V8 conversions.....
Regards
Million $ Question then, is how or what is the best way to bleed the air out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumcajs
Fire, lots of fireQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
When you re do it turn the heater on think they over looked that part
and have you checked the water pump it might have give up the ghost
Havent seen any telltale drips at all, and theres no noises?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Roofy
park it up hill and cut the bottom off a coke bottle tape that to the radiator filler neck.
Get up to temp with the heater on, squeezing top hose every now and then.
Is the viscous fan working as it should???
You could buy one of those radiator bleed kits @Hodge used recently
no idea where he got it. a gift I think
Well, if it was done properly they'd use vacuum refilling unit where the created vacuum in the cooling system would sucks in correct amount of coolant from a container and without air pockets....Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I've got that unit in my shed now as I have 4 cars to look after....
Your best bet is to warm the engine and then carefully slacken off the header tank (expansion) cap and watch for any depressurising/air/coolant escaping. I suggest do it slowly and have rubber gloves on so you don't scold yourself. Really be careful, I advise you practice the art with engine cold first so you know how far you need to undo the cap. once there is no longer any pressure coolant should be staying in while engine is idling and you can watch for air bubbles....
You could also create a bleeding aparatus from a spare/another cap drilled and/or with plastic hose inserted/sealed in the cap/header tank opening and the other end of the hose submerged in the cooke bottle with a bit of water in it so you can see it bubbling. This is home made "check for pressuring the cooling system" device. I also repurposed old Tee Kay head check combustion leak detector for such purpose but that might not be an option for some.
The other way is to park the truck in such way that air can escape via header tank being highest point of cooling system with the cap undone.
When I had an air lock in mine I kept pulling over every 2 km and undoing header tank cap until bubbles/air escaping pressure stoped. It took about 15 km....
Regards
So I ran the ol gal with the heater on today (Farkin shitty humid day to do so). Got home waited for it to cool and cracked the header tank @Rumcajs put a queen sized sheet over it........empty took about 3/4 ltr maybe 1ltr to fill. Ran it with all 3 caps off and coolant started to come out the radiator and splash me in the eyes (HAHAHA NOT COOL MAAAAN). Put that back on and left the header tank open and the over flow tank open and ran it up to 82C no movement, no bubbles. So I'll run into work tomorrow and see if the levels drop again.
You dont need to have the heater on mate. These dont use a heater tap, so coolant runs through the core regardless of what setting you have it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I think that leaves only [maybe] to service your MAF and check your viscous hub.
Shouldnt need a fan at 100 kph , OOI does it have that bottom section of shroud
fitted its about 400mm by 50mm. plays a big part in the whole fan shroud thingie lol
Yeah shrouds all there
Sorry for late reply. The spill free funnel kits are available everywhere. Example here...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spill-Fre...IAAOSwn7JYE9pR
I have followed nissannewbys advice on mine (identical cooling setup as the 3L CRD). After initial top up and bleeding just by idling idling the motor, they eventually rid them selves off air after a drive or two.
I tried using the funnel on mine recently @ the radiator. And it certainly helped with the initial bleed after filling the system up.
The park up the hill trick will only work so far on these due to the header tank design. Header tank is the highest point when car is on level ground. No need for uphill parks.
They are designed to self bleed. Fill up radiator and header tank to max. Fill overflow tank to between min and max and then run the motor till thermo opens. Go for a drive and monitor the coolant level... Top up if necessary. Just make sure the overflow coolant is present for the header tank to suck out of... Mine settled after about 24 hours or so...
I think Ive got a thermostat issue (not closing). It only heats up when under load. Idling it comes back down. Taking it to the mechanic due to the STUPID BASTARD location of the thermostat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
If its stuck open it won't heat up.Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I'd say if anything its stuck closed or maybe partly.
So under load you aren't getting flow threw the radiator to cool it..
Yeah good idea. They are in a c*** of a spot. Let someone else deal with it ...Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
Nah mate they heat up. If the thermostat doesn't close the coolant doesnt sit in the radiator long enough to cool down, just keeps flowing and getting hotter. Hence when im sitting at the lights just idling the temp drops back to 87 CQuote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
@MB ^^^
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I believe everybody's on the same page, maybe just different timeline relative posts?
If the thermostat is stuck open it will not heat up indeed it will actually warm up a little if stationary but it will cool down rapidly once moving...open thermostat will never cause overheating, stuck closed or partially closed is another matter.
When thermostat is closed coolant is being recirculated around the engine block so it (coolant) warms up quicker hence the radiator hoses are usually cold especially the lower one. Try it! Once it (thermostat) opens the hoses will warm up to almost even temp or so it feels. Thermostat begins to open at 82C unless yours is tropical variety which is 76C.
If cooling system is operating normally temps around 86-89C are to be expected under most conditions (running at Robe in deep sand and ambient temp around 35C will push coolant temps up to mid 90C. )
Regards
Agreed, my personal experiences on different past donks have found that stuck open TS's only assisted heavy hauling conditions but found too low temps at stationary/lights as best I remember. When stuck at half or below open I've also had to completely remove TS's before which then does create way too much flow as per the vehicles OEM design. Just a bugger I guess the ZD30 isn't a quick pop out and kitchen pot test at home to view its action. I think others have also mentioned here potential viscous fan coupling issues or even poor water pump flow maybe?
Sorry Rumcajs, should have added, 'past donks' (350 chevs in FJ-LC's) had 16" front mounted electric push fans so "stationary" was same as rolling down a steep hill off power if that makes sense mate.
Will find out Friday
For sure, does sound like a prick of a TS location, best of luck with it Friday Growler! Rainsey over in the Chev thread reported recently very similar symptoms on his 6.5. Brunswick and him found the viscous fan was the culprit in his situation not fully locking up I believe under load on hills and had them totally baffled for a while.
Well ive got it back but haven't taken it up a hill yet. Will do that tomorrow. Sssssoooooooooooooooooo. Thermostat was stuck between open and closed WTF???. @MB they also serviced the viscous hub, rekin it wasnt spinning fast enough?? Dont know if theyre having a lend or not. Coz wouldnt it stay cool @ 100k's even without the fan running with the volume of air blowing in. And get hot at the lights without air flow, which was oppsite to my symotoms?? Anyway they tested it and rekon its good now. I'll report back tomorrowQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Great news Growler, see you at the donk party hopefully! Sounds like you may have scored a double wammy mate, TS & Viscous working together for a complete pain in da :-( I'm not exactly sure how mechanics test the viscous hub at full temp and rpm 100% lock up, timing light and white marker crank versus fan maybe? With Rainsey's issue they supplied a solid van hub to run constant just to prove it was the viscous hub lacking say the last 10% pull I guess.
Sure hope that's the problem solved.
Between the door lock and the overheating you have been cursed with this car.
2 simple things that were an absolute arsehole to sort outQuote:
Originally Posted by TPC
Just curious, was a genuine thermostat used ?
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I feel your pain mate, try buying a 6.5 Chev/Trol as a rushed heavy haul replacement for your written off 4.2TD but soon after find it was so poorly setup and I'll guide you on how to burn $5k+ real quick getting it work usable :-( Cooling all our modified trucks is a challenge but rewarding when you've nailed it :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
I dunno mate I'll look at the invoice, my missus picked it up yesterdayQuote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Just checked and it says new thermostat to suit? But PHARK me it was $56!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
lucky bugger you were sold the Gold TS,,,, cant get better than that,,,lolQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
Hopefully its sorted now, AHhh the complex ZD30