will get some pics to you when forum runner behaves
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will get some pics to you when forum runner behaves
Attachment 69603
Trytheseones
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Andagainwithmore
Hows the induction noise on your snorkel stropp? I have the same but with the ram head and i still can hear it. Id hate to think what its like facing back towards the window.
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So I ordered a Carter 4601 pump off eBay on Tuesday and it arrived today.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/11/25.jpg
@nissannewby can you confirm I need to take the power from the oil pressure switch on the drivers side of the motor? Or can I take this from anywhere?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/11/26.jpg
Cheers guys.
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Its a seperate pressure switch according to those drawings.
I'd be using the pressure switch to switch a relay, not the pump. Separate power and control
I haven't wired mine yet but will just switch a relay via ignition. That was Mat's suggestion too.
Thanks Bene, so i read that drawings to say take the supply for the pump from the ignition via the Oil Pressure switch? Your suggesting putting a relay in between the Oil Pressure switch and the pump yeah but still take the supply from the Oil Pressure switch? can i not take the supply from anywhere that required Ignition? Is there an easier spot? As long as its switched via ignition yeah?
With their diagram the pump will operate when your engine is running and you have oil pressure.
It won't hurt to have it running for 5 seconds while you glow the plugs so I was just going to wire it from ignition. It will save time when changing fuel filters too.
Give the pump its own protected supply from the battery switched by relay. Control that relay by the key. Thats what I mean about separate.
If you develop a fault at the pump mid trip and say, melt a cable, which does happen. It will only damage the cable directly from the battery to the pump.
If the pump was supplied from ignition directly it will damage cable all the way back to the Key,
Oil pressure switch is debateable. If I were to use an oil pressure switch I would have bypass switch incase I need to start it after a roll over or in stuck in some risky position where getting out and priming is not ideal, or fault frinding.
This is how I would wire it in. I used the same principal on my W2A cooler
Attachment 69620
Legend Bene.!
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I can highly recommend going a better airbox. Do the airbox at the very least. The genuine airbox is the most restrictive part of the equation. I think the cobra head would have been a placebo effect a little as the problem is the element to airbox relationship, any changes beyond that will render little result.
You can have a 20kw increase on all the standard gear if you wind the fuel into it. I did 109 rwkw with all my stock gear. EGTs were ok but had to managed when towing but they werent crazy. Putting a big cooler on just allows more fuel to thrown in and EGTs are more stable. Dont always think lower is always better. We have a safe max but there is nothing wrong with cruising at 350 C*.
Yeah I did wonder what gear it was in too.
So Matt you reckon a 20kw increase is possible just from the cooling of the intercooler allowing a bigger tune? 20kw is a great result!
Does anyone know what airflow diameter the Nissan snorkel would equate too?
@mudski, what did your snorkel cost mate?
Thanks fellas, this thread is developing well. Excited about making some changes finally.
Yes and like I said is all achievable on stock equipment too although it wont be as nice as something with a Borg Warner on it. Yeah the standard cooler just isnt big enough once you start leaning on it, it just loses efficiency. If you go to a full 4" intake and a Borg Warner EFR6758 then it will be a very nice car to drive. Keeping in mind that your pump is going to be the factor of restriction.
The Radius fab snorkel was $690 from memory...
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Mat. JPC told me they do their runs in 4th. When I had my car at 4x4 Obsession, they did the first dyno run and the outcome was just about identical to JPC's, 3kw difference. Was different after the snorkel and box was fitted though.... And they do theirs in 4th....
As for the fuel pump. I wired mine in so it comes on only when there is oil pressure. Quite easy to do. Just wire a relay an as per normal, but the earth for the relay you just tap into the wire going to the OEM oil pressure switch. For me I didn't want it to run when the ignition was on. As when I do electrical work on the car sometimes I need the ignition on. So I didn't want the pump to be running. I could have just put a switch in to turn it off but I have enough switches already on the dash. Lol. Plus priming the fuel filter by hand only takes a minute or two to do so...
I also made a bypass fuel line around the pump just incase the pump died, so their would be minimal pressure loss from having no pump. The carters I think can still draw fuel through when not running, but I think i did find somewhere that there is pressure loss. So making up a bypass while I had access to the rear tank was no biggie to me.
Each to their own on this... It suits me.
the fatz snorkel and air box was around $1100 if i recall correctly Darren
$600 for the millweld they all look alike to me
@mudski
JPC are either lying or there dyno isnt calibrated. The runs hodge posted should be pushing towards 130km/h in 4th easy as his wagon should have 3.9 diffs.
@nissannewby should I be concerned about putting an overflow bottle on my W2A IC?
Does it really require one?
Yeah dunno what to say. As my two runs from different workshops were almost identical. Anyway, dyno run, dyno bum. As long as the user is happy...lol
As for the FMIC Mat. As we know these kettles like to get hot. Would having something else in front slowing air flow to the radiator just make it run hotter. But, I kinda like the idea of W2A.
One day I might change mine.
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I was a little hesitant too Mudski with a front mount and I won't lie there was a slight initial increase in water temps along with my free @bennyboy high mount but I became proactive with keeping it clean.
The lower EGT was honestly light years ahead of a top mount (along with the right turbo and set up) and even after a muddy event wasn't a critical concern of water temp.
I know there's a lot of kettle stories floating around and yes possibly a slight issue all round with mr Nissan td42 it's not an issue if you set it up right and be proactive with cleaning if you're into muddy tracks.
UFI are doing an oversized viscous hub and fan setup with very good results, cost around $600 i believe, i will be getting one prior to xmas as im heading south.
I just spent a little time crawling around the GUIV. Holy bat shit!! A front mount is gunna big a bloody mission!! There is some Stuff in the way!! The Aircon condenser is huge and there is an oil cooler in front of that. I could make the cooler fit but seriously going to struggle getting the pipe work to it!!!
What is the smallest pipe I can run from turbo to intake via a FMIC? I was working on a 3" kit but needing to re think this if I can!
The turbo outlet wouldn't be more than 50mm or so? What is the downside of smaller tubing?
Apologies Daz, big day mate, what power ya chasing?
Really keen to sort out my exhaust temps when towing and on the beach. Full rethink on it.
At this stage it's looking like the Borg Warner turbo coupled with an upgraded intercooler and airbox. If I can fit s front mount I can use the saved cash on the snorkel and airbox so keen on that.
The plumbing for the front mount is bloody tight though!!