As far as I know
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simple suggestion to a complicated question
strip all the extra crap off
take the cooling system back to standard
standard Thermostat (starts to open when it should, be completely open when it should)
new Fan & Viscous hub
remove your sock - they are for feet - or 1950's cars, not modern motors
use Nissan Coolant - NOTHING else
then take it to a Diesel Mechanic and get it dyno tuned
if the pump timing is out - your wasting time ginning around with possible maybe this or maybe that
also
instead of passing small amounts if information every now and again with your posts in 2 threads
start the story, and write it all completely, so we CAN help
sorry if I sound rude - but this is annoying trying to help with little bits or NO information
like trying to draw teeth out, and I am not a Dentist
PLEASE
I replied to this TD issues thread, and this thread only.
Haven't seen, read, his other ones.
Not having a shot bro, actually lol about it, can't be every where.
Honestly though, now Iv'e stopped laughing.
If only the thread had been,
" what if hypothetically speaking I had a different motor".
ROFL... me neither cobber.
When I'm having a go the post starts out as;
"Why #$@% the %$^&# you #$%&* buy a Prado $%%@ stupid *%$^*&"...
and goes downhill from there.
Landy does have a bit of strange problem tho, hope we can help him sort it without having to transplant him into a GQ TD42 with an aftermarket Pump... Fuel pump that is...
Well as Shultz would say , Me know nothing, well about zd cooling anyway, so this is where I bow out.
Sorry I couldn't help.
Shit hit the fan the other day . We were going up the range heater on overdrive off.no trailer.no load.empty.we thought not a problem . Ha ha .
Nissan gauge just below half .aftermarket gauge 87 where it sits normal.going up hill temp creps up going 40kph gets to just below 100 .nissan gauge hasnt moved .. wifes driving she pulls over to let it cool .goes down to 87 off we go again .same shit twice more . Third time truck up her ass temp goes up and up she abuses me i abuse her nowhere to stop temp goes to 110 very bad abuse from both partys as we stop heat from heater is boiling us . But wait nissan gauge has hardly gone up a tiny flyshit. It shows no problem while motor is boiling . No wonder first motor blew . After cooling we took off again .both sides sorry for what was said . Needless to say one gu up for sale were buying an older swb xlt petrol on gas auto 1990 model . sorry guys but thank you for all the help and suggestions .
Thousands of 3 Litre Patrols out there that don't overheat .... gotta get to the root cause of the problem and taking it to an expert could definitely be helpful in this situation.
Yep.. something is not well..
This massive 4 core radiator you bought..
Is it a quality brand name or some ebay $100 buck job?
Some ebay ones have been known to cause more harm than good with extremely poor flow..
Have you checked your water pump at all??
Imo remover the sock.
With a well maintained system I can't see the need..
I know 5 cars personally and owned one of them with half a million or more kilometers on em and never run a sock and never had blockages..
Regular services prevent this..
It did this before new radiator or sock it did this stock standard thats why i changed everything one at a time .yes new waterpump
Yes I realize that but..
Is it a quality radiator or a $100 ebay jobbie?
Imo 4 core is killer overkill..
3 max.
But pretty sure stock is 2 and work fine..
Also what percentage coolent ratio are you running?
$500
50 / 50 nulon
nulon ratio ok.
I know is said I'd bow out but
Ok a $500 radiator = partial info again.
Guessing it's a thicker dual or triple core job.
Maybe something that has probably been made for the colder european market, and thus not suited to our environment.
Or an overpriced falsely claimed, so called performance evilba rad.
Some sellers tell porkies to push below par product, That's the nicest way I can put it.
A thicker rad is not necessarily better.
Fin pitch has to be matched to the rad thickness for any performance gain.
Thicker with the wrong fin pitch can actually "BLOCK" air flow through the radiator.
In turn reduce cooling, so bad it could be worse than the standard rad, and ya over heat thinking "well it cant be the rad I just put a new one in".
I'm guessing your rad is not up to spec to suit your needs.
And hey I'm not preaching at ya mate, the one I just fitted," that was supplied to me", I think falls into this below par cooling scenario also.
Its a standard thickness core, but single core not dual core as std spec was.
But not any where as bad as yours is, thank christ.
4 core looks good 70 ml thick ..over heats with standard 2 core . only gets hot uphill slow speed.. not on highway towing trailer .
Was the viscous hub ever changed?
New viscus .with new waterpump .three new tested thermostats .
Is the fan on the right way round? Use a bit of paper to check air flow.
Have you ever cleaned the aircon core?, it also can block up reducing airflow through the rad core.
so you have a 4 core unit what brand? and type alloy?, and it over heats when going slow up hills.
to me it sounds like a combination of over fueling and reduced air flow.
Ahh what air filter set up do ya have, could it be restricting air, in turn also adding to rich mixture and heat stress.
Alloy radiator looks nice forgot what brand had red writing on angle on packet .
Yes fan in right direction .
Air condensor cleaned when radiator was out .
Standard nissan air filter .
All good points
But i have missed somthing ?
Any pictures of the setup??
To me if your struggling while slow but fine on the highway then is a simple flow issue..
So do you still have the standard viscous fan plus 3 thermos??
Yes to fans
Landy 96 cant get photos on here
The fins and thickness can be critical.
Ok your is thicker but the "FPI" fines per inch, need to be less than standard to allow air flow through it.
EG--If FPI is large, ( more/same number fins per inch ,not less ) it is like a blanket being put over the rad, reducing airflow.
A properly matched,for the job thicker rad to fpi ratio build spec can take full advantage of the extra cooling capacity, mis-matched and problems.
I'm not saying this is the cause just something worth exploring.
Diesel Mechanic said head gasket or cracked head ??? Problem solved ..
Bloody subscribe scam popups on here keep jaming my phone .
I have popups blocked on my phone but it doesnt stop these
I just read through the whole thread trying to figure WTf are we talking about as the title is for a TD42 pump. Nothing to do with cooking it.....
I was asking myself the whole way through, have you and or anyone thought to check the radiator for oil or bubbles, Tried checking sump oil for water? The where signs all the way of a crack or leak as well plenty to say that the engine needed a good cooling system clean. The factory cooling on the ZD30's are pretty bloody good, thermos will never beat a engine driven clutch-fan.
.
"What once was lost must now be found"