What are you thinking stuffed syncros, well worn at least
These gearboxes are truck like, how many Ks do you think is on the gear
box from your knowledge
Oil is OK
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What are you thinking stuffed syncros, well worn at least
These gearboxes are truck like, how many Ks do you think is on the gear
box from your knowledge
Oil is OK
275k on the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Just run in....
Just a few ideas but I'm sure the workshop are onto it.
Clutch fork. Is it in good order and not sloppy..
Is the slave cylinder bolted down tight and not moving?
I think I read you got a new master didn't you? Is that working 100%. Try putting a bung in the outlets and see if it by passes with engine running..
Clurch forks do bend....sounds like the booster maybe or need more pedal adjustment.
All air is out of the system?
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
You must be missing something IMo so close but so far too.
I have to say it.......,.
Time for an auto?
>>>tappin from tassie
The slave is now giving full throw and there is no feel to it at all in the pedal. The gearbox is coming out next week but I have told them to take their time because I won't need it for at least a month.
For this trip I will just match the gears up til I get there.
Ouch...
>>>tappin from tassie
Yeah I know mate and to be honest this has come at a really bad time for us. Shit happens though.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Yeah you'll get through it all the stronger and more knowledgeable. Also with your latest efforts you should be able to spring lightly over any adversity lol
>>>tappin from tassie
Bugger mate.... so not sure if you need a new clutch yet.?Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Got my car back today and its lovely having Bruce back.
The clutch booster had a broken internal that had nothing to do with the rebuild kit and bill did some awesome work repairing it.
Finally got my car back yesterday!
It now has a new clutch and pressure plate, machined flywheel and new thrust bearing.
Now there seems to be another issue, when you put your foot down on the clutch it works fine and holds there. But when you release the clutch it feels like there is no pushing force against your foot, and almost like it takes a little while for the clutch to release. There is a slight noise when you put the clutch in as you accelerate through the gears, it lasts as long as it takes to depress the clutch. It's not loud and kinda hard to explain what it sounds like. I can feel it through my foot too.
The only thing at this stage that hasn't been replaced are the clutch lines and the clutch booster. Is there a way to test the booster?
Mines bit like that but giving a couple of runs seems a bit better
mine grabs ok but feels soft call in and compare mate
Yeah it's weird to explain. Like the clutch is a bit hesitant to return.
I might just drive it how it is for a little while and order a booster rebuild kit.
The clutch is not hard to push in when the engine is running.
bit of grease on the fork or crap under the bootQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yeah it was all just taken out and checked so no crap in there and would have been greased.Quote:
Originally Posted by roofy
You gotta remember every clutch feels different..
Imo if it's not slipping after releasing your foot then I'd say it's fine..
The noise though..
Again could be new clutch seating in?? I guess monitor it and see how it goes..
The clutch in the new gu is completely different to the old q. The old q use to engage and disengage quite far into the pedal.. the gu is near the top..
So it sounds like I'm a manual Newby riding the clutch or bunny hopping it around lol
Nah mate this is definitely not right. I had a 4 Terrain clutch in my old Patrol and it felt great. This is just weird... the pedal feeling is just wrong.
The noise sounds like it's coming from the firewall or the pedal. Definitely not inside the box.
You haven't got a vacuum leak have you? Was the booster inspected at all?
Yeah they pulled the booster apart and think it all looked fine.
Can't hear any vacuum leaks at all.
When box was off did they check things like crank shaft end play or anything to do with the motor?
Was a new spigot bush installed? Was the gearbox input ahaft checked for straightness?
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
No idea on both counts there.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Bugger.. fingers crossed..Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
New 2nd hand clutch booster is in and it has fixed the problem. I have got my car back now!
Good stuff mate guess you'll be out after workQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
to see how it goes
Was the clutch installed over 12 months ago?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
No it wasn't. But thats all sorted and for another story.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Yeah, the point I was trying to make is that you didn't have to pay the cost of labour again if the mechanic stuffed it up. Clutch cost peanuts comparing the labour cost. 12 months warranty should cover both parts and labour, at least in the case of clutch replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Otherwise, what is the point? Spare part can be just a couple of dollars as in welch plugs. Then the labour can be hundreds, if not thousands. I remember having to pull the whole bloody engine out of a car, just to do a single welch plug.
So over 6 months and a lot of money later and I am still having clutch problems... everything in the hydraulic system except for some of the lines (which are not leaking) is brand new. New slave and master cylinder, new second hand booster, new clutch and flywheel.
I'm finding that when I first start the car, the clutch is perfect. But after driving for a while, the friction point of the clutch moves up the pedal. I don't know if it is dependent on temperature, but that's what I'm thinking?
So at first the friction point is pretty close to the floor which is fine. But after 10 mins or so it starts getting closer to the driver. On our last Licola trip it had moved so far the clutch started slipping, I haven't driven the car since this trip though.
Could it possibly be a vacuum issue? Any other ideas?
I am pulling my hair out with these bloody clutch dramas!
Shit mate. Bad new on your clutch issues. I can only suggest to replace all the rubber hoses aswell. Being the original hoses they are probably swelling up when everything starts to warm up and not holding pressure. That would be my next thing to do then reassess.
pull the plug out of the bell housing see what is thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
check the breather lines 2 the gear box
way of base but you never know
That makes sense. I'll try that first I think. I'll grab the braided hose kit from Roadrunner tomorrow arvo and see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
http://www.roadrunneroffroad.com.au/...g-Braided.html
When you put the master cyl on did you check the clearance on the pushrod? If your clutch is slipping it's either the clutch fork is starting to engage or the friction material is starting to slip, maybe rear main seal?
Yeah nice! Thats all I can think it might be. unless the push rod is not adjusted right as Gary has mentioned, but to me, it would do it all the time, not just after a bit of driving, if the adjustment was out. But who knows. Good luck. Nothing worse than having a gremlin you can't get rid of...Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Sounds like it's been bloody frustrating, hopefully this solves it, best of luck. . .
I don't think it's the friction material slipping, I'm fairly sure it's the clutch fork engaging. When it started slipping the friction point of the clutch was right at the very top of the pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
If the pushrod was out of adjustment, that wouldn't explain the friction point shifting positions on the pedal though would it? I'll check it anyway but when the car is cold it is in the right spot.
it sounds like the fluid is expanding and not returning to the reservoir... i'd check the master / push rod to the master length.
I picked up the braided hose today from roadrunner so will put that in over the weekend.
I'll double check the push rod behind the master too while I am at it.
Anything else I should check?
Does the master have a bleed off for excessive pressure?
With the bigger exhaust and higher engine bay temps could it be heating the oil in the lines which is applying pressure to the clutch?