Yep have to agree.... would love a set up like these
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Yep have to agree.... would love a set up like these
Good to see that Brett looked after you mate, you have certainly been very busy lately, Cuppa's Camper is looking good
A bit more progress.
After collecting the various bits & pieces together to plumb in the hot water service, I haven't as yet plumbed it in. Initially I thought I'd start under the bonnet, but when it came to it, decided to start in the canopy. I've built an enclosure for the hot water tank, which I'll fill with extra insulation, probably those little polystyrene balls used for bean bags. I don't want to use anything that will make it impossible to get at the tank in the event of a leak. Making the enclosure has to take this into account too. No pics of the enclosure yet, that'll probably be the next 'installment'. Suffice it to say that a fair bit of time has gone into pre-building the enclosure, which is now dismantled for painting, & can be rebuilt around the tank. My style of building tends to be the 'make it up as you go along' type, as opposed to drawing up plans first. (Maybe the odd 'back of the envelope' type of drawing, but that's about it).Consequently a fair bit of time gets taken up with 'discovering' that something isn't going to work, & having to go back to square one!
After pressure testing the HWS on the bench to ensure that no connections leaked, I fitted it today.
Next job is to plumb it into the motor.
Here's some pics. Two show the HWS bolted into place & hoses connected to fittings that are bolted through the floor. One pic shows those fittings from under the floor. Very limited space, due to the under tray drawers. The fittings & hoses will run behind the underfloor gas bottle cabinet (removed at present to gain access. Rest of the pics show the two ARB fridge slides fitted.
Cuppa
Looking good mate, coming along nicely...
X2. Looking good. It's amazing how differently we think!! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaunous
After the first attempt to plumb in the hot water service ended up with the HWS working but the cab heater not at all, I had a second go, & got it right second time around. The HWS needs to be in parallel with the heater, not in series. I'd read this before installing it the first time & thought I understood it. I understand it now! Luckily sorting it out only meant changing a few hoses in the engine bay, All the work I'd done running hoses from the engine bay to the canopy, including fitting a heap of that spiral 'armour' stuff intended to protect hydraulic hoses on diggers & dozers didn't need re-doing thankfully. Hopefully next time I want to spend a day or two scrabbling under the vehicle on my back in the dirt, with remnants of the Red Centre dropping into my eyes & mouth I will think to put it up onto the ramps first! Of course by the time I'd thought about doing this, I'd disconnected hoses & lost coolant, so wasn't keen to start the motor. Doh! At least when I finally re-started it I had no leaks. It had been a long job, the chassis & under the vehicleis not a place intended for heater hoses & I put a lot of effort into trying to ensure that all hoses are protected from flying rocks & from rubbing through on anything.
The HWS has yet to have freshwater plumbed to it, this will happen once I have a water tank. Of course the various 'standard' sized RV water tanks are all the wrong size & shape, so I have to get one custom made. So far I've had 5 quotes ranging from $945 (gulp!) to a far more reasonable $320. It will be a lightweight Polypropylene tank with a capacity of about 150 litres.
The HWS is now 'boxed in' with additional insulation around the tank, I used some polystyrene sheet & a couple of those high density foam sleeping mats cut up. Hopefully this will work as well as the set up in our bus, & keep the hot water hot for up to 3 days. Next on the agenda is wiring for the 'house battery charging system - DC to DC and Solar - I've worked out the wiring in a diagram, now have the challenge of transferring this to the vehicle, once I've sussed out the various wire sizes needed.
Cuppa
what about a condemned automotive LPG tank as a water tank? Years ago, some were stainless, and were picked up by the inboard engine ski boat crowd
Hi Silver, I had actually considered doing just that, as I have a couple of old LPG tanks sitting around here unused. I decided against it though mainly because of height (& the fact that they aren't stainless & surprisingly heavy). It would protrude up into where I want to have storage in sliding plastic bins so I'm going to get a tank that is only 250mm high, & sits under where the storage bins will be. I know someone who has four of those stainless lpg tanks in their converted bus for fresh & grey water.
Cuppa
Looking good Cuppa, when it is completed you and Mrs Tea hopefully will visit the wild west mate, so I can see it in the flesh.............got more patience than me for sure
Nice Rig you got there Cuppa, just a tip with the wiring for the Redarc BCDC, we use circuit breakers instead of the recomended 30A fuse, we have had a few come back where they have actually melted the fuse and fuse holder, ie crank battery to 40A circuit breaker then run 6mm positive wiring to the BCDC and from that we use a 30A circuit breaker to the house battery. hope this makes sense, its harder to explain a circuit than what it is to draw it
Hey Inkbandit,Quote:
Originally Posted by Inkbandit
I've used the 'MEGA bolt in' type fuses and although I havnt had a chance to use the solar panels to charge yet (was to lazy to wire it in on my offshift), charging with the crank battery while driving hasn't cause me any problems, I did however check the modules temperature with a infrared heat gun, and it was around 55degree's while parked after a long drive and engine still running, which Redarc says anything over 50degree's will cause a less efficiant charge, but thats about it, damn glad I spent the extra money and bought a good product... If anything happens though I will look to seek the breaker option.
What battery monitoring systems are you wiring into the vehicles you install the bcdc on. I have yet to install one, and to be honest, probably wont...
Cheers,
Shaun
Had ideas of getting one of these myself sometime back...then the bloody missus went and got up the duff...so looks like i'm keepin' the wagon.
They are a top rig with all the basics there.Ive always liked those canopies with the dual wheel holders.
Looking forward to the changes.
Sorry for the hijack Cuppa
We usually only fit the BCDC chargers to utes that have battery boxes in the rear, it is not reconmennded to have them in the engine bay due to the temps, we also usually stock the baintech gear for monitoring charge/voltageQuote:
Hey Inkbandit,
I've used the 'MEGA bolt in' type fuses and although I havnt had a chance to use the solar panels to charge yet (was to lazy to wire it in on my offshift), charging with the crank battery while driving hasn't cause me any problems, I did however check the modules temperature with a infrared heat gun, and it was around 55degree's while parked after a long drive and engine still running, which Redarc says anything over 50degree's will cause a less efficiant charge, but thats about it, damn glad I spent the extra money and bought a good product... If anything happens though I will look to seek the breaker option.
What battery monitoring systems are you wiring into the vehicles you install the bcdc on. I have yet to install one, and to be honest, probably wont...
Cheers,
Shaun
Yeh Sorry Cuppa :)
I see some worried people had asked questions about that on the Redarc site, and all the Redarc tec guys said no worries its designed to be installed into the engine bay, mines only ever been clocked as high as 55degrees, this temperature obviously is lower when the vehicle is driving with air flow, or once sat rested for a while, I measured it straight after a long drive and the engine still running on a hot day, and mine is mounted on the firewall, turbo side near the bonnet hinge...Quote:
Originally Posted by Inkbandit
Sorry again for the hijack Cuppa...
Shaun...
Hi Inkbandit, Shaun & pjwooly.welcome the thread. All welcome contributions.
Regarding the fuses vs Contact breakers - For fitting the BCDC I've already bought some fuses (50A as per what Redarc recommend), but they are not your usual type fuses. They seem to be a cross between a Maxi Fuse & a circuit breaker - a self resetting fuse. I have been told by others that they are ok, but that it's wise to put some heat shrink around the body of the fuse , as they have been known to loosen the metal body when they get warm, with the potential for the body to short across the contacts. Any thoughts?
Cuppa
They look the goods Cuppa, from what I can tell from the small description listed they are in fact a circuit breaker, they look like they have been designed to replace a maxi fuse in an existing circuit, I can see what you mean about the heat shrink that may be an issue, these are the type that we use, you will have to scroll down the page a bit till you get to the heading "Water Resistant Breakers, Manual & Auto Reset" https://www.12volt.com.au/redirect.h.../breakers.html Hope this helps
Well it's starting to look more like a camper now. I still haven't done any of the wiring, but have been spending my time putting in the frameworks for storage etc, as well as building in a couple more cupboards, fitting the Blueseas Circuit breaker panel & battery monitor, & installing the custom built water tank I got made.
The steel framework has been very slow, all bolted together with brackets. If I still had my Oxy set I could've welded them, but I'm hopeless with arc, hence the bracket & bolt approach. All brackets cut & drilled from angle I had sitting around, it's too far into town just for brackets. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/51.jpg
This shows the Blueseas circuit breaker panel, the switch panels will all have labels on them which are illuminated at night. The single LED below the panel will indicate that the Redarc charger is doing it's job, & the battery monitor below that will tell me all I want to know about the state of my charging system.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/52.jpg
This shows the 'pre-wired rear of the Bluseas panel. The white board to the right of the panel will house a double mains power point (for battery charging & powered kitchen implements when camped at places with 240v available (not often - but the battery charger will be used when vehicle is in shed). The same panel will also house another double power point connected to an inverter, which will be used to power the laptop, camera battery chargers etc.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/53.jpg
Showing the basic steel framework bolted together to house plastic tubs for storage. Mostly attached to the floor by brackets & bolts into RivNuts as it's impossible to bolt through as the under tray storage area prevent any access, except along the edges (in line with the wheels). To attach the upper full length steel tubes, rather than drill a heap of holes through the canopy front & rear walls I came up with what is probably a unique 'CuppaSolution'. The steel is recessed into, & bracketed to pieces of hardwood which are sikaflexed onto the canopy wall. They're not going to go anywhere! There will be a full length overhead shelf to take chairs etc, & up the back behind the fridge & freezer there is space for the ladder required to access the rooftop tent.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/54.jpg
This is the custom made freshwater tank, held in place by angle on all sides (again RivNutted to the floor, using hi tensile bolts & some threadlock for extra peace of mind) & a single bar bolted across it's top. After getting several quotes & being gobsmacked by some of the prices I finally had this one made by Mick at Award Tanks. He was great to deal with & his prices very reasonable. Some places wanted close to $1000 for a tank exactly the same (to my drawings) as Mick made for me for $400 delivered. That's only about 40 bucks more than a standard size one of the same capacity. It holds around 160 litres, has two outlets, two fillers (one for 'click on, one for a bare hose or funnel) & a breather, & has a single central baffle. It is light but strong, I can sit on it without it deforming.
The space in front of it will have the 12v pump & pipes to & from the hot water service, & in front of that will be the stove. A fold out work surface to the left of the stove & a clip on table with sink (bowl) will be to the right of the fridge. This will be served by a hot & cold water via hoses (with trigger spray guns) that attach to exterior click- on fittings that are controlled by a couple of small lever ball valves close to the stove.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/55.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/04/56.jpg
A couple of pics from the drivers side. This will give access to most of the plastic boxes, which at this point I'm thinking will be suspended on, & slide in & out on aluminium channel. The box sizes will mean that the front of the boxes (tubs) will sit just behind the fillers in the water tank. The space that this leaves in front of the tank will be handy for my occasional forays into town to buy a bag of goat feed or similar, without needing to remove the plastic boxes.
One thing I decide that was important to me, which has dictated part of the layout, is the ability to be able to look back from the drivers seat through the canopy side window. I found that with this window blocked off on some occasions when turning right iw as completely 'blind' & had to get out of the driver seat (either across the passenger set or actually getting out of the vehicle to see if any traffic was coming. Retaining the ability to see out through the canopy window & positioning the vehicle at a junction helps a lot.
It is a slow & evolving process best described as 'making it up as I go along'. But I am starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere,
Cheers
Cuppa
Coming together mate. Top stuff.
Looking good Cuppa, well done mate
Luv the car mate. sumfin different to the norm. Do you live near melb i swear i passed this truck heading south on the freeway just past broadford wighbridge today.
Hey Cuppa,
Your canopy is looking great, love what you've done with everything fitting in
so neatly.
That electrical setup is a beauty, something I wish I could do.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Cheers Gavin
Nah, not me mate, I'm down in Gippsland. There's a few of these trucks around. At least one other in my area.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKWDW
Cuppa
Time for a few more photos :Yahoo!:
First up - I wasn't going to bother installing mains 240v, but when I realised that the ARB fridge freezers can automatically detect what voltage they have available & give priority to 240v I changed my mind. It means I can just plug the vehicle in when in the shed & not have to bother about changing supply cables to the fridges.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/06/23.jpgStandard 240v inlet.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...ety switch.jpg
Double pole (as required by the regs) RCD safety switch
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...wer points.jpg
2 mains power points, also both double pole. One at the rear for the fridge & freezer, one at the front for anything else (Computer, battery chargers, HWS etc).
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Left Side.jpg
General view from the left side. Stove not yet plumbed in. Water plumbing behind stove. Decided not to have stove on slideout as I want to keep the space above it empty, to allow a view through from the drivers seat at junctions (see next pic). Will have a small fold out kitchen work top to left of stove, plus an external clip on table toward the rear incorporating a sink
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/06/24.jpg
Can still see out - safer when turning right out of a junction
There is to be hot & cold pressurised water availble to the sink (or for showering) via hoses that clip on ouside the canopy, with trigger type garden sprayers attached. The hot water is heated by driving, from the calorifier which is now inside the insulated box to the left of the stove. The 12v 40psi pump is fitted behind the stove under a removable cover. All plumbing is 15mm John Guest stuff, not cheap but very easy & quick to use, as well as having the advantage of being able to pull it apart to re-use it (or when you've cut a pipe too long or too short). Each fitting has a locking clip to prevent the joints coming apart unintentionally. I used two stainless ball valves as internal taps. These will be turned off when travelling to prevent accidental water loss, but when camped the trigger sprayers should be sufficient.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...onnections.jpg
These exit through the canopy floor just behind the left mudguard. Our hot water hose will connect here, the cold water one (shown with hose attached) feeds through to a filter at the rear of the vehicle.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr... fittings1.jpg
An internal shot of the through the floor water fittings, which have plenty of clearance for the fridge to slide back & forth over the top of them (phew!).
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...ernal taps.jpg
Ball valves. Shut off when driving. Mounted into Dibond which I hope will keep the gasfitter happy given it's proximity to the stove.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...mbing taps.jpg
Love the John Guest stuff. I only used the 15mm because that was the size on the calorifier (HWS) & the expansion tank, otherwise the 12mm version would have been quite adequate (& cheaper).
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Water pump.jpg
Not an expensive Shurflo like we have in the bus, but an ebay cheapie. I bought two for less than half the price of a Shurflo & will carry one as a spare, also useable in assisting to fill the tank.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...nk shutoff.jpg
In case any problems arise I thought it wise to fit a shutoff tap to isolate the tank. Just a small garden fitting.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...bing cover.jpg
The 'plumbing compartment' with it's cover on. I will build what kitchen storage I can above this which still allows for the clear view through from the drivers seat & also allows for this cover to be removed for access to the plumbing.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...nsion tank.jpg
This little baby had nowhere else to go without a lot more piping (& expense), so sticking it here was a compromise. It allows for expansion as the water heats up. Experience with a similar set up in our bus, but with no expansion tank, is that we always get a steady drip from the system's pressure relief valve. Fingers crossed that it wont happen in the Patrol.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...calorifier.jpg
Inside here is the calorifier with additional insulation which should keep water hot for 3 days hopefully.
The small hatch allows access to the tempering valve to adjust the ouput temperature of the water beteween 45 degC & 65 degC. The coiled cable allows for the unit to be plugged into power & has a thermostat set at 80 deg.C. Removing a little of the insulation gives access to manual control of the pressure relief valve should the tank ever need draining.
More in next post
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Water filter.jpg
The water filter cartridge is mounted at the rear of the vehicle & filters all cold water used. It is a 1 micron silver carbon filter, meaning that water can be taken from rivers, troughs etc if necessary, treated with chlorine in the tank, & have all taste of the chlorine removed for drinking. The cold water 'sink hose' will connect here. A female click on connector, blocked off with sikaflex should keep the crap & wee beasties out. (Reminder to self - need a cover for the hot water outlet too).
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Ladder space.jpg
At the rear is a space to store the ladder we need to access the rooftop tent. I may yet structure it a bit more, although suspect that an 'open' space could be quite useful (in addition to the open full length shelf along the inside top of the canopy). The ladder also fits quite nicely across the drop down spare wheel brackets, so this rear space may be utilised differently when out bush compared to in places where someone might think they deserve to own our ladder more than we do.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Right side1.jpg
Moving around to the other side of the vehicle, this shows the water tank fitted. It has two fillers, one for a click on hose & one for a jerry/funnel. Spaces for storage to be filled with silding plastic boxes.
(As on other side above the fridge)
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...ge baffles.jpg
The various pieces of 3mm ply are basically 'baffles' for the fridge & freezer. Being back to back, where one blows out hot air the other would suck it in. The baffles are to prevent this. Most of it is removable with a screwdriver for access elsewhere if required.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...wer closed.jpg
And around at the back again shows the under canopy compartments. The right hand one (3/4 length) has not yet been allocated, but the left one will be for storing our second tent, an OzTent, one of the older 'real' canvas models equivalent in size to the current RV3, purchased second hand but virtually brand new/hardly used - another ebay buy. It fits, but only just. To get it in means not having it inside it's carry bag, but it fits into a drawer I made, which has a 3mm ply cover that slides in above the tent to prevent the tent snagging on anything as we pull it out. The second tent will be our daytime 'living room' & evening mossie refuge when needed & it's canopy should match up to the Shippshape's (rooftop tent) canopy fairly well giving a reasonable amount of shade.
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...rawer open.jpg
Well that's where I'm up to. Soon I'll have to start on all the 12v supply & charging stuff which I've been putting off a bit. Only because I there is nowhere local to buy supplies (cables etc) at a reasonable cost, that I know of.
Hope you like what you see, feel free to tell me if you think I've stuffed up anywhere, better to know now than out in the middle of woop woop.
regards
Cuppa
That's a damn nice set up mate, seriously!! Would of been the way if I'd gone trayback, love the tray draw you have from the rear. Did you make the spare wheel holders yourself? Trying to work out if I should have a recess in the sides (bit like the landrover 110 6x6s the army have) or on the back like yours
Thats all looking awesome mate, lovin watching this build.
I love your sliding drawers!! lol
[QUOTE=Cuppa;235641]
[IMG]http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patrol/Tent drawer closed.jpg[/IMG
http://www.cuppa500.com/Webpics/Patr...rawer open.jpg
Can you please give me a full run down on your drawers? lol
Size, materials used, etc. Any probs lifting them or dragging them over the back locking mechanism, when full?
If you're gunna put a drawer on the RHS, appreciate the measurements for that, too.
I'm so sick of using a rake to drag stuff out that slides down to the front. lol - not
Rossco
Did I read somewhere you're gunna get a roof top tent? If so, how are you going to get into bed from the ground?
Hi Rossco,Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
The drawer is certainly a tight fit over the top of the locking mechanism, so much so there is only one way to get the drawer in & out, but it does work.
Giving you the measurements won't help, I reckon you have to 'adjust' to your space. Clearance side to side is not a problem, but a chamfer on each low edge of the drawer ensures clearance of the welds where horizontal & vertical ally is joined,
I had to grind part of the locking mechanism bar flat to give clearance getting it in & out, & the the two locking bars have to be 'straight', not 'staggered'(ie turn the handle to the locked position when door is open). I also had to cut what I could off the plate in which the locking bar slides, & cut a corresponding 'groove' along the full length of the drawer to accommodate what was left of it.
As usual (for me) I built it out of what I had handy, most of the drawer is 12mm pine tongue & groove , like is used for wall panelling. It seems rigid enough, wouldn't want to go thicker because of weight.
The end panels are 6mm Dibond, just 'cos I had it sitting there. Originally I was going to do the whole thing out of Dibond, but what I had wasn't quite long enough..... just as well as I wouldn't have had the thickness to allow for the cutting of the groove' to make it fit.
When putting the tent in it, the drawer is removed from the vehicle first, tent put in, & then draer replaced.
Not sure what I'll do on RHS yet.
Actually one measurement that might help is the full height of the drawer (not including the front panel which can be a bit higher) - 122mm, but I needed every millimetre to fit the tent, if making a more 'general drawer' life would be easier at 115 to 120, depending how much you want to grind off the locking bar & plate.
Cuppa
Rooftop tent is a second hand Shippshape. Folds out to the side with sleeping area fully supported by canopy so ladder can be removed when no-one 'upstairs', giving more useable space under awning compared to those that rely on ladder for support. Note in the pic below the rope holding it's top cover on. The original elastics 'let go' on a windy day as I was driving, & the whole bloody tent opened up at about 70kph. No damage done, but I need to get a new top cover made anyway because it's higher up than on it's original vehicle & the outer awning wall needs extending to reach the ground. The step ladder is a double sided one I cut shorter by one rung on each side, & added some aluminium plates which lock onto the rail alongside the tent when ladder is folded out, but still allow the ladder to be fully folded for storage. Flat rungs are easier on bare feet than the two piece heavy steel ladder that came with the tent. It fits easily across the width of the canopy inside at the rear, or can clip onto the spare wheel holders.Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
Cuppa
:clapping:, sorry Cuppa but the thought of that had me laughing so much I nearly fell off my chair.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Glad that no damage was done to it mate.
Yeah I can laugh about it now, but it wasn't bloody funny at the time. Lucky that a) I had some ropes to tie it down, & b) that someone stopped to help. The wind was that strong there was no way I'd have got it down myself. The funniest part was that a couple of cars coming the other way flashed their lights at me & pointed, I looked in the mirror to see what they were pointing at & saw nothing & just carried on! It was the bloke who helped who overtook me & pulled up in front wildy waving that got me to stop! :driving2:
Cuppa
Hi Cuppa,
I've enjoyed reading the story on your build up while plotting and planning my own build of an ex-telstra patrol (see Moby the white whale). Thanks for all the details and pics, you've given me lots of ideas.
Cheers,
Errol
Progress continues. An update.
All the electrics are now done. 240v electrics are fairly simple, consisting of an external 15amps input socket set into the pod behind the passenger door. This then feeds two double sockets via and RCD/safety switch. One double socket is for the fridege & freezer (which gives priority to 240v automatically when available). The other for a mains battery charger. Checked & given a certificate of safety by a local electrician.
In addition a 350w Victron Phoenix pure sine wave inverter provides 240v sufficient for my battery power tools charger, kitchen mixer, laptop recharging etc. if anyone is looking for an inverter I'd recommend Victron. I've had a couple of cheap pure sine wave inverters that have failed, but have a Victron now in our bus that has done what it's supposed to. Generally they are pretty pricey, but I bought this one for the Patrol from http://www.marineequip.com.au/victron-inverters.html who were both very good to deal with & significantly cheaper than anywhere else. They charged me $201 delivered & supplied it with a standard aussie power outlet.
The Redarc BCDC1240 is fitted, & working as it should according to the NASA BM1 'Compact' battery monitor. External Anderson plug connection for solar panels added to front of pod (will sit behind panel yet to be fitted to cab roof). ....... Anyone have a pair of roof bars you want to sell?
Wiring up the Blueseas circuit breaker distribution panel was fairly simple as it was partially pre-wired & just needed connections to the various circuits made. It works as expected, with a little led to show when each circuit is switched. The label for each circuit is backlit, but I fitted an additional switch to allow me to switch this feature on or or off, rather than leaving it switched on all the time.
I also added a switch to allow the battery monitor to be switched on & off, as the means of resetting is to disconnect it from the battery & then reconnect whilst holding down one of it's two buttons. A switch next to the monitor makes this task far easier.
From the CB distribution board there are 6 circuits.
1 - Lights .... Currently still the 'Telstra' fluoros, but to be changed to LEDs once other work is completed
2 - Compressor - this is essentially just using the CB board as a convenient switch to operate the 100 amp solenoid that came with the compressor. The compressor itself will run directly from the 'crank' battery via a separate 100 amp circuit breaker.
3 - Water pump. With this now wired up I have been able to fill the water tank & test the pressurized water system and the hot water system. Apart from an initial couple of small leaks (needed additional Teflon tape on some threads) all works ok. The cheap eBay pump is fairly quiet.
4 - Fridge and freezer. Supplied with 6mm2 cable, & original ciggie lighter type plug cut off & replaced with Anderson plugs. Also added an inline fuse to each as the original plugs incorporated a fuse.
5 - Power outlets. In our bus I put outlets all over the place & found that we didn't use most of them, so in the Patrol I've only fitted two. One externally up high on the passenger side of the pod (for an led extension light for use in the rooftop tent or the ground based 'Oztent'). The other an Anderson plug inside the pod on the driver side which can be used for a water pump to fill the tank, portable shower, or whatever.
6 - Inverter. This is connected to a twin output power point. Switching the inverter on & off with a circuit breaker makes life more convenient allowing mounting of the inverter to be out of easy reach.
The auxiliary battery under the bonnet has been removed, along with the ARB battery tray it sat in. (Anyone with a GU interested in buying a used battery tray) and the starter battery connected to the batteries in the pod via some very heavy duty cables (70mm2), & some high amperage Blueseas battery switches which allow the charging via the Redarc BCDC or a direct connection. As a reminder not to forget a direct connection (& risk flattening the starter battery if left long enough) I've also fitted a small voltage meter in the driving cab, in addition to the battery monitor in the pod.
I am now in the process of fitting the storage bins. Having looked around at Bunnings, BCF etc I was less than impressed with the quality of plastic boxes available, & decided I wanted something more durable ..... Like those black recycling bins that councils use for empty bottles etc. I found a place in Melbourne called Richmond Castors & Wheels who make them & sell at reasonable prices. I paid $14 each for the 52l & $13 each for the 32l bins. $8.50 each for lids. Also bought a couple of colored 20l bins (no lids) which were $18.50 each as the colored bins are food safe, whereas the black ones are made from recycled plastic & not considered food safe, but as any food inside these bins will be in other containers, the black ones will be fine.
They are strong enough to be suspended by their 'lips', so I'm using aluminium 'rub rail' to slide them on to, which also has plastic end pieces to finish it off. Mounting the rails is very time consuming as the spaces between the 'uprights' were made to accommodate the water tank & the fridges, so at the moment I'm working as a contortionist come bracket maker. (remember I live way out of town, so as usual it's all fabricate it myself out of materials to hand).
I plan to take some more pics of my progress once all the plastic bins are mounted, but if anyone is interested in seeing some pics of anything in particular that I've mentioned, just say.
Regards
Cuppa.
WOW you have been busy Cuppa, just read your post and I have one question mate........................power tools charger and laptop recharging etc I can understand, but kitchen mixer?????....hahahaha
Sounds like you and Mrs Tea are getting closer to head off on a trip soon mate, when is it planned?
Nice.
Would love to see lotsa pics.
Hope you left enough room to sit in your seat and change gears! Very impressed with the work.
Take care out there.
Rossco
Going to be at Yarragon over xmas, if your home I would enjoy popping round and comparing notes, You certainly have an impressive tourer now.
Cheers Macca
Now there's the rub, actually using the thing for extended trips is still some way off in the future. Vague plan is to finish the Patrol, do some house renovations, sell the propertyQuote:
Originally Posted by The Dogman
& move elsewhere to a more easily 'leavable' place, & then do lots more travelling. So still long term plans really. Hopefully we'll still manage to fit a few short breaks in during the summer though
Haven't done much in the cab yet! Still looking for a single passenger seat. A local wrecker has one that he wants $200 for, but it's sat out in the weather & is a bit grubby. Gonna struggle to find somewhere to mount the iPad I got for my birthday. I want to use it as a gps navigator.Quote:
Originally Posted by DX grunt
That'd be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
Yarragon's not too far away, so if we are here you would be more than welcome. Plenty of room to camp as well if you wanted to. Just let me know nearer the time.
Regards
Cuppa. ♨
Hi folks, time for a few more pics of my progress. It may not look like a lot more has been achieved, but believe me there has been a a heap of time spent since my last batch of photos!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/16.jpg
All looks neat & tidy, but the reality is a little less so behind the distribution board, but the important factor is that it all works now.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/17.jpg
Gulp!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/18.jpg
Passenger side, gas stove still to be installed. False ceiling now fitted giving overhead storage space for lighter gear like camp chairs etc. Plastic storage bin above fridge, on rails so it can slid out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/19.jpg
Driver side showing more plastic storage bins, all can be slid in & out independent of each other. At the front you can see the 9 litre air tank which goes with the air compressor. 300 watts of portable solar panels store between where the air tank is & the plastic bins.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/20.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/21.jpg
But wait, there's more. Slide out the two outer storage bins, & these 4 bins sit behind them.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/22.jpg
These all have a spot, plus all sorts of nooks & crannies between them. All should remain in position with lids on (except the blue ones that have no lids) when traveling.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/23.jpg
On board air tank, 9 litres. It was a close fit, needing long fingers & more contortionist moves. This & the compressor have to be removable to allow access to the batteries when they eventually need to be replaced. Similarly the false ceiling also had to be removable for the same reason.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/24.jpg
Boss PX7 compressor. Powered from the crank battery under the bonnet, but switched from the 'house' batteries in the canopy. I'm waiting for delivery of a few more fittings to run air hose to either side of the canopy. Fired up the compressor for the first time this morning & was pretty chuffed when it worked as it should. Have used heavier cabling than recommended after reading of of others experiences with thin cabling causing overheating of the armature problems. Boss said to use a minimum of 15mm2 cable, I utilized the 70mm2 I have to connect starter & house batteries, plus chassis earth. Additional cables are 35mm2. Probably overkill but better too much than too little when it comes to sufficient copper to prevent voltage drop.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/25.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/26.jpg
Overhead storage area on driver side for fishing rods etc.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/27.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/28.jpg
Overhead storage on passenger side
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/29.jpg
Inverter & Redarc charger/solar regulator. Redarc starts charging about 30 seconds after motor is started. Remote led underneath the electrical distribution board replaces need to look directly at the unit if an error ever occurs. Haven't tried plugging in the solar yet, but have fitted an Anderson plug for this purpose to the outside of the canopy. I now have a couple of Rhino roof bars to fit to the cab roof to attach another 125w panel to, but still need to decide what sort of framework will be best to angle it as a 'wind deflector'.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2012/09/30.jpg
Small voltmeter in dash serves as a 'telltale' to remind me to switch back from winch use to dc to dc charging, just in case I should forget.
Still to do in the canopy - fit led lighting - I measured the current that the full 5 metres of led strip lighting I bought for under $20 yesterday - 1.3 amps. Happy with that!
Make a table/sink to clip onto side of canopy, plus hooks to hang the hot & cold water hoses.
Make kitchen work surface. (fold out) & laminate it.
Work out how best to carry gas bottles - may junk the under tray storage cabinet & get someone to weld me up a frame.
Then there's changing the passenger seat in the cab & building some additional storage between the seats, fitting the cab top solar, & getting new (& extended) canvas cover for the rooftop tent.
Oh yeah, fit a CB radio, mount the iPad for gps navigation ........ & that'll be about it!
............... Unless I've forgotten anything ......... Oops yep, there's the driver side under tray storage area, which I guess is where the recovery gear will live, possibly in plastic trays??
Cuppa.