I would love one of those, (much as I love my rb30) :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
One of those days, hopefully I can get the cash together for the engine conversion, is it worth the expense over a td42?
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I would love one of those, (much as I love my rb30) :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
One of those days, hopefully I can get the cash together for the engine conversion, is it worth the expense over a td42?
Go a Cummins conversion.
They shoit over any chev conversion..
600+ Nm out of the stock turbo engine..
How much do they run to?Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
12-15psi is stock my brother reckons.
He's just picked one up. His work shop only rebuild it 1000 hours ago and he got it for $2000
Wow that's a good price, how hard is the conversion and parts availability and how do they drive?Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
A few patrols done now but Tbh I have no idea.
Brother is bolting his to an 80..
I would think conversion would be on par with a zd to td or similar as its all mechanical.. it's a 7ltr td42 lol.
Built like a brick shit house to.
Reckon I might do some research, wonder what a 7 litre engine uses per hundred, then again I spose if installing a 7 litre engine, that's not a question to ask, lolQuote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
Chev s are 6.5 so what's half a liter lol
Well it might only be half a litre, but I reckon an extra half a litre would help my RB30 quite a bit.... 😀
Turbo it. That's the best way to get more power from an RB30.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
Yep, that is still the most likely option from cost and simplicity perspective, with a mostly factory setup hopefully I can keep the torque relatively (for an RB30 anyway), low in the rev range, I do love the thought of the big torquey turbo diesel though! At the moment my engine runs exceptionally well, smooth, no oil or coolant usage, no smoke etc, (touch wood), so at the moment I am loathe to do anything to the motor, and from a budget perspective, it's better right now to keep it as is too!
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Same here. Mine's still old school NA carby RB30. I'm happy with the reliability and the simplicity of the heavy unit, i can't let it go. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
Had quite a few cars over the years, ironically the Patrol which happened to be a rugged 4WD & not about reliability is the most reliable and dependable unit I've had. It's like finding my true love. :D (touch wood?.......Hmmm.. may be not. :) )
You gotta make your true love into a wife when you find her, right?! ;)
I was considering an EFI first then turbo conversion, until I've got bitten by the turbo diesel bug. :)
Alright, so an update on the actual reason for this thread, got the tail shaft back, it needed 5 balancing weights to true it up. The unis were actually fine in the end, a regrease and no problems.
I think that when I noticed it was the first time I've had this truck in 4high at speed when not on a horribly corrugated road, so it's probably been that way since I bought it. Probably just an age thing, sometimes I don't feel as balanced as 20 years ago either, lol.
In any event, it's time for a test run to make sure, but hopefully will be happy days :-)
So you're not thinking to turbo your RB anymore?Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Ok, so now I am getting really really mad, took the truck for a drive in 4 high, hubs unlocked.
Noise is there in all its f#*@$ng glory... I don't know what it is but I know it isn't right...
I am so mad, I hate getting something fixed and not fixing the actual problem I was concerned with in the first place, oh man, I think I am going to drink myself to sleep tonight to avoid doing something stupid.
Fighting the urge to put it on gumtree.... $@%^#%~!
Got a trip coming up and been trying to sort this crap out, I do not want the threat of a trackside failure that could have been prevented in the back of my mind, but there it is 😡😡😡😡
Okaaay, thats a bit weird, so just to confirm a few things...
How fast are you going when you can first notice it and when it gets really obvious?
Are you 100% sure it is a new and abnormal noise?
How often prior to noticing the noise had you driven at those speeds with the transfer in 4H or forgotten to lock the hubs?
Petty's are different to Diesels as well... because they run quieter any weird noises are more noticeable
The front drive train isn't exactly silent at high speed IE if you forget to unlock your hubs and hit the bitumen in 2H you will def know about it above 60 to 80 KPH
In my TB42 it was totally obvious by about 70 ish
Hubs - can't be hubs, that noise should go away when locked not start and will sound freaking horrible if they are stuffed
Wheel Bearings, Brakes - can't be wheel bearings etc or it would do it all the time
CV's - can't be CV's if the are bad enough to rumble they should nearly leap out of the truck when you turn
Axles - 99% can't be
Bent Diff Housing - possible I spose but a real longshot
Front Diff, Carrier, Pinion etc - possible, I don't know enough about them
Unis - eliminated
Front drive Shaft - eliminated
Transfer case - 99% can't be and you would feel that in your arse rather than from the front
I can hear it very mildly at low speed, even turning at low speed there is just a hint of it occasionally, definitely starts getting noticeable by 40, and by 60 I don't feel like it's doing anything good mechanically.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
I am fairly sure it's a new noise, it definitely doesn't sound like anything I've heard before, can't place what it is.
I have driven it plenty of times in 4 high at speed, but usually always on sand or corrugations, so maybe I didn't hear it, but it still sounds different.
I once drove back from a run at the powerlines track and did a bit of highway speed with hubs locked in 2wd, took me a minute to work out what the noise was, but that was definitely different to this.
It happens with or without the hubs locked when the lever is in 4 high, but it didn't make the noise with the driveshaft removed and the lever in 4 high so couldn't be transfer case could it?
In addition, there is no longer any vibration to be felt when driving in 2wd or 4 high, so I'm guessing that the vibration and noise were 2 separate issues, the vibration must have been the very out of balance front shaft, the noise must be something else, although I can't figure out what.
Gotta love this sort of thing...
OK, so progress is being made at least...Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
I am going to call it as the front diff pinion bearings
There is a reasonable chance that as the shaft was that far out of balance it has promoted wear in the bearings
Shouldn't be the thrust bearings but that is a chance as well spose
Any of you lurkers watching this thread know more than E.T. about front diffs (that wouldn't be hard) ?
Thanks for your time helping with this one E.T. So if it's front pinion bearings, how hard are they to change? I suppose the only way to prove front pinion bearings as the fault is rip em out, check/replace and test?
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Sounds like the transfer is eliminated, have you tried it with the shaft taken out and hubs locked? This should narrow it down to the front end somewhere if it shows up. Most likely in the diff somewhere possibly pinion the vibrating shaft could have taken is toll.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
Just out of interest the front shaft on my GQ vibrates pretty bad at Highway speeds, think it's pretty common for them to be out of balance. I've always just taken the hubs out but should get it sorted properly. Another thing for the list! !
My pleasure... my prev 'progress' comment may not read how I meant it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
I meant it in a positive way IE your half way there so balancing teh shaft wasn't a bad thing.
Unfortunately I have only pulled a front diff down far enough to do a Locker... once... that was enough for me 'cause I don't enjoy mechanical stuff as much as I am old and feeble and decrepit and lazy and that diff was freakin' heavy.
Whereabouts in WA are you?... if you are NOR Perth I would say take it to Mike at XLR8 fabrications.
He has done, like, a gazillion diff rebuilds, lockers etc and is my goto guy for that sorta shyte
Not sure. ideally I would like to keep the RB and a TD, but won't be financially practical.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
I prefer the RB30 as it is for the reliability on long outback trips.
Turbo is more power, but not too sure about the reliability though.
I guess it's a matter of installing a good intercooler to prevent overheating and heat related failures of the turbo and engine.
If the pinion bearings are shot then it's easy to find it. This was the video I did on mine(rear one) last year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
Front will be the same. Look/feel for a play similar to this and your pinion bearing is shot.
Pinion bearings on it's own aren't available afaik.
So, I had to buy the rebuild kit which comes with the pinion and carrier bearings and rebuild the diff.
You'll have to set the tooth pattern, backlash and pinion bearing preload.
You will need tools iike inch-pound torque gauge & dial indicator. I bought a dial indicator & used hanging digital scale to measure the pinion bearing preload. So, it's a fair bit of work. Tooth pattern can be set using acrylic ink or similar compound.
While I've been rebuilding the original diff, I bought a used one and fitted, so I can get around.
If you don't want the trouble of all the work, just buy a used one off ebay, wrecker, etc. Whether you pay a diff specialist or buy a used one, it will cost around the same. Perhaps bit cheaper for the front diff, 'cos it's usually an open diff, not an LSD.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljzutTaygO4
Turbo on the RB30 is a pretty big job... thats prob why so many people do a Skyline transplant instead
The boys on the Skyline and VL Crappadore sites are all over the process for the 30's so some good reading there.
Yeah that's definitely where I think I'm at right now too, it just starts every time, runs smoothly etc, hasn't failed to do any off-road challenge yet I've tried yet, just momentum and tire pressure choice is more critical than say my mates turbo diesel GU, he can just use more right foot most of the time... Only time I really feel the urge for more power is up steep hills at highway speeds, come on down third gear and 5500rpm :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
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I am NOR so it doesn't look like XLR8 is too far away, I may have to get a quote, I just really want to avoid the whole fixing stuff that isn't the problem, ever since I bought my first car, that is always the thing that has given me the irits, I don't mind fixing stuff that isn't working properly, that's part of vehicle ownership, and maintenance is fine, but if I had to pick one thing that most annoyed me about cars, it's chasing strange issues that don't seem to want to be fixed!Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
If it needs pulling apart I think i I'll have to price the repair vs a locker [emoji12]
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Yep it did make the noise with the shaft out and hubs locked, it's sounding more like the pinion, if that means any work on the centre that might be an excuse for a front locker :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Ironically I'm pretty fussy about the mechanicals of my vehicles, but the repaired fiberglass front and rear guards, pin-striping and dirt doesn't bother me at all :-)
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He's in Bayswater http://www.xlr8fabrications.com/
Awesome fabricator but it is his Patrol knowledge that can really help a bloke out
Yeah but, it's becoming increasingly difficult to find a turbo Skyline or a VL.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
So here's a short video of a noise I found when checking to see if the pinion bearings had play. It didn't seem to have any play like dom14's video, but with turning the front shaft back and forth a short way, this is a noise I found. My questions are, could this be causing noise at speed with the lever in 4 high and hubs unlocked, is it normal or not, (play in the centre)??? And lastly what could it be causing that and should I be worried, coz at speed it doesn't sound normal!!! Thanks for everyone's ongoing help :-)
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Well Bayswaters just down the road, might give him a call tomorrow :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
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Plus a few workshops I spoke to aren't keen at all to do a turbo install if I wanted one done professionally, gotta be blokes out there who would do the work I just haven't found emQuote:
Originally Posted by dom14
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For a turbo installation, you obviously wanna go to a place specialized in turbos.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
I would say that's the diff gear backlash play, 'cos you're producing the noise by turning the diff/drive shaft. But, judging from the video, I"m wondering whether it's showing bit too much backlash, which also means worn pinion bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol'n
But, ideally, you should be able to feel a bearing play the same way you feel wheel bearing play by moving the drive shaft/flange in that manner. The noise is definitely backlash play and noise, but can't say for sure whether it's too much backlash and noise there.
Another important thing is that to feel the pinion bearing play properly, you need to make sure the drive shaft is freely moving and the gearbox/transfer is not engaged, etc.
I remember when I had the handbrake on and the gearbox was engaged(in gear) I couldn't feel any pinion bearing play at all. That 'cos the it tightens up the drive shaft.
So, make sure the transfer is not engaged and the hubs are not locked when you test the front diff pinion bearing for any play.
Also consider diff oil change/oil level check if you haven't done it yet.
Hey dom thanks for the reply mate, I think on re reading it my post mighta sounded a bit mechanically naive...Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
I agree it seems like backlash causing the noise in the video, what I was trying to say whilst tired and frustrated was that I wondered if it was too much / too loud, I have no experience repairing front diff / axles, only rear and wasn't sure if there were differences... I was wondering if it was excessive, whether that could be causing the noise when driving.
I had it in 2wd and hubs were unlocked in the video, when I tried to move it laterally as in your video, it felt tight so I wondered if the rotational noise could be it.
It was also only a couple of months ago that it got a full driveline oil change, (made a huge difference to the smoothness of the gearbox operation, particularly second when cold) :-)
A further update is I spoke to the mechanic today and he had tested it in 4wd with hubs locked, (safely of course), he said the noise disappears. (He even got a second opinion from his usual transmission specialist), I tested this about half an hour ago, and yep, sure enough with hubs locked and in 4wd it makes no noise now, other than a slight increase in general driveline noise, which I would expect with a transfer case and another diff operating.
So whilst that makes it seem that it should be ok, I still wonder why the noise occurs in 4high with hubs unlocked...
Can't figure it out, but given that generally I never drive in 4 high without locking the hubs, do I need to worry?
If I do I'll take E.T.s advice and talk to XLR8 about it.
If the mechanic says it's ok with the aid of a transmission specialist's second opinion, I would leave it the way it is.
The noise you describe may be normal, 'cos the power is not getting transferred to the wheels and the front driveshaft, diff, axle, cvs turn on their own. So, excessive noise should be able to explain that way.
I wanted to put on 4H and drive and see if I get any noise as you describe, but can't 'cos mine won't be running until I finish the work I'm doing right now. Having said that, I think we are not suppose to drive it on highways with 4H or 4L on. I'll wait for somebody with more knowledge on that to post about that. One thing I can assure you is that if you drive with 4H engaged and hubs locked on highways(on a straight line), it will most certainly be noisier than 2H driving.
BTW, front and rear diffs work on the same way. Rear diff is more complicated 'cos it's an LSD. Front is usually an open diff, unless you have diff locker, etc.
If you've done rear diff, then you should be able to do the front diff with your eyes closed. :)
Cheers mate, I still have a locker on the list for the front, so my first time working on a front diff may well be when it's time to install that. (When motivation is high and laziness / beer drinking is low) lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Quick update after a camping weekend with some wheeling along the way, all good, no noise and no vibrations. 😀
Cheers all for their input and assistance, would have driven me nuts if it hadn't gotten sorted!