Which solar panel to buy

The panels themselves doesn't matter as the connectors don't change.

When connecting the panel array to the Controller....
If you have an MPPT controller the choice is yours.
If you DO NOT have an MPPT controller they should be in parallel and the same rating as the system IE 12 volt system then 12 volt panels etc.

The 'default' would be a parallel wired connection

Be aware that 90% of the Controllers claiming to be MPPT are not.

MPPT controllers can operate on panel voltages significantly above system and are essentially a DC/DC converter.

I already have a "MPPT" controller 30 amp all fitted into a clear box and ventilated.
As you and Cuppa I think said a while back not a tru reg but it does its job,
not feeling too flash Atm so will take some pics to show you and sort out the other MC4 connections.
So parallel it is.
looks like I'll need those combo style MC4 connectors 2 to 1


are these the ones I require for the back of the folding panels ??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MC4-Branc...item1e8f4ada67

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MC4-Adapt...item20e99b75eb

I have this controller those wires only go 200mm and terminated with 50 amp anderson plugs

I prefer the branch connectors that have a bit of cable rather than the moulded ones as they are a tad more forgiving in how the cables run but no biggee.

If it is a fully portable setup...
I would have put MC4 connectors on the "solar" cable to the Controller but not a major issue
and
Anderson variants on the "battery" cable

If the Reg is permanently mounted I would hard wire the "battery" cable from Controller to Battery terminals

The CMTP02 is not a MPPT Controller so you must hook your panels up in parallel

Thanks for that so a bit of soldering to do in the next few days,
I'll prep it all untill the branch leads arrive,
I'll also change the 50amp to the panel to MC4 as well

see what you mean sort of makes it chook proof so to speak

Nice job dude

Uuummmmm... be aware that Controller can get pretty hot.
If it hasn't get any airflow and/or a decent heat sink all the smoke will get out.
If the smoke gets out it will stop working and its a real bitch trying to shove the smoke back in.

You can get natty little vents that you can cut and fit to those enclosures

It has vents on the sides, more soldering to do today, ordered the MC4 2 into 1 leads.

@ ET,Cuppa Ive had this and my 80 watt panel connected to a small 18 ah battery,[deep cycle]
All it has been running is a car radio and one led strip light, Ive been playing with all my panels
and cant for the life in me get the red lights to shine on that "MPPT" controller.
Can you put up a link to some thing that will last, I believe its US already.
Ive tried on my 20 watt and 80 watt panel ,,,no lights so Im assuming its dead,,, yes
Is this link ok for what I want??

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-12V-2...item3aac6778c2

Hook up the battery first.
What is the voltage on the battery terminals?
Now, hook up the panel
What is teh voltage on the battery terminals?
What is the voltage on the panel terminals?

I cant get any readings , I think my new 18 ah deepcycle battery is U/S.
friggen sore as bending down even sitting on a milk crate..
Might buy that LCD display controller for my new panels, I'll check battery
down at my Battery place [Alco] Hmmm battery is new, bit of a mystery.
Plus my multi meter is not the best going around GRrrrrrr

@ ET wired the pos and neg from the 80 watt BP solar Panel to the pos and neg on the solar icon on the controller
then wired the pos and neg to the battery icon terminating in a 50 amp anderson plug.
with my multi meter I have 19v from the Panel and 19 volts at the anderson plug.
what have I done wrong other than buy a cheap controller lol

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-12V-2...752&rmvSB=true

I think I may have to connect to a battery to complete the circuit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

@ ET wired the pos and neg from the 80 watt BP solar Panel to the pos and neg on the solar icon on the controller
then wired the pos and neg to the battery icon terminating in a 50 amp anderson plug.
with my multi meter I have 19v from the Panel and 19 volts at the anderson plug.
what have I done wrong other than buy a cheap controller lol

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-12V-2...752&rmvSB=true

I think I may have to connect to a battery to complete the circuit

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Always hook up your battery to the Reg before you connect the Panel.

19 Volts is the open circuit voltage (so far so good) and, yes, the battery 'completes' the circuit.

.... should have added;

The battery voltage (when connected) will tell the Reg if it is a 12 or 24 volt system and 'pull down' the voltage to more like what you are expecting.

Typically, using a 12 volt panel and a battery approx 90% SOC or better) the Reg will then have;
If it is a PV type say 13.3 volts at the Reg "Panel" terminals and 13.1 to 13.3 volts at the Reg "Battery" terminals
If it is an MPPT type 17.5 volts at the Reg "Panel" terminals and 13.1 to 13.3 volts at the Reg "Battery" terminals

That is just a guide as the "Battery" voltage reading will change depending on the mode of the Reg and SOC of teh battery from around 13.0 ish to around 13.7 ish

Thanks again "onwards and upwards I go" lol
The battery isnt that old Ill get the battery ppl to load it up and test

Hey threedogs where did you get your panel, im currently on the lookout.

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

Hi Sooty sorry for the delay , check my link a few posts back
Paid under $200 for a folding 120 watt with carry bag. Happy with that so now at camp
on a good day I'll be returning about 6AH back into my battery.
My 80 watt BP panel I brought nearly 20 yrs ago 2nd hand and its still pushing out 19 volts
Paid $150 for that one.
The "GO" back then was to glue the reg to the panel, and over the years it fries the reg.

I've checked all the links and can only find regulators/connectors. None for the specific panel? Im thinking about just biting the bullet on the rich solar ones.

Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MACHT-12V...item258ca19ed5

Heres my panels ,german made and 25 yrs warranty and under $200
Hope this helps.
If there was a down side to these is that they fold with the solar panels on the outside.
The carry bag is not padded so be wary of that and how you pack them

OH and my 18ah deep cycle battery was 5 yrs old and swelling badly
so a new one is required,

What do you guys think of this panel ? for its weight (2.2 KG) seems to be ok.. but I could be wrong. It dosent have an MPPT controller so I will need to get that as well.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GISTA-12V...torefresh=true

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ronin

What do you guys think of this panel ? for its weight (2.2 KG) seems to be ok.. but I could be wrong. It dosent have an MPPT controller so I will need to get that as well.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GISTA-12V...torefresh=true

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Should be ok just wire it up with the MPPT controller at the battery end with a
50 amp anderson on the battery side and those mc4 connectors on the panel side.
As ET says connect the battery first then the panel.
Any reason for that style panel???

thanx for your reply threedogs.

I like the fact that they are light weight and thin, so I can pack more bits when I go camping.

so true,,, weight is the enemy.
That one you picked will still put back 5ah
into your battery, and with LEDs these days
less strain on the battery other than the fridge

my plan (in theory) to skip the whole dual battery setup completely.

I have a cheap AGM deep cycle that was given to me. SO when I am driving I will have the fridge/freezer connected to the rear 12v cig socket that runs off main battery. Once I am at camp site, I will plug it into the spare deep cycle and connect the solar to the battery via a mppt controller.

Perfect just buy one of those plastic battery boxes, I modified mine a bit fitting extra Merit and anderson plugs on it
Plus a Volt meter. You could charge that travelling via a dedicated outlet

Any recommendation on a good MPPT controller ?

I not the expert on them I just brought a 30 amp one with a LCD display
check earlier links

Yeah, agree.
During a trip a while back I looked at all the hassle of the traditional "heavier than lead, wacking great portable if your Hulk Hogan" panels.
Worked out how many hail storms I had been camping in (which is the only reason for the glass) and promptly sold the Bastards.

Bought 200 watts (2x50's, 4x25's) of light weight flexibles.

Total weight under 6 KG and fit where my 120 watt fold ups were with room to spare.
I can mix and match so a couple on the vehicle and some on the van or all on one or the other or whatever

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ronin

Any recommendation on a good MPPT controller ?

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90% of the MPPT Controllers on Ebay advertised as such aren't MPPT.
A true MPPT will be $100 or more retail
Tracer are about the cheapest http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10A-MPPT-...item20f657d82b

To tell if a Reg is a genuine MPPT look at the Max Solar Panel Input Voltage in the specs.
If it is like 100 volts or 150 volts or more then it will be an MPPT Controller
If it is 20 volts or so then it will be a standard old run of the mill PV reg

That is one reason why many people say there is no advantage to MPPT.
When they compare them they are actually comparing two standard Regs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

Yeah, agree.
During a trip a while back I looked at all the hassle of the traditional "heavier than lead, wacking great portable if your Hulk Hogan" panels.
Worked out how many hail storms I had been camping in (which is the only reason for the glass) and promptly sold the Bastards.

Bought 200 watts (2x50's, 4x25's) of light weight flexibles.

Total weight under 6 KG and fit where my 120 watt fold ups were with room to spare.
I can mix and match so a couple on the vehicle and some on the van or all on one or the other or whatever

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do you just spread them over the roof of your van and Patrol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

do you just spread them over the roof of your van and Patrol

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The 4 x 25's are in a folding canvas bag with clears on the pockets so I treat it like "normal" ones and pop 'em in teh sun as I like to have the Van in the shade.
The 2 x 50's are seperate... don't usually need them but if I do then I just chuck 'em wherever IE on the roof basket of the Ute etc.

At home I might have 1 x 50 keeping the Ute up to charge and 1 x 50 doing the same for the van and the 25's packed away

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ronin

my plan (in theory) to skip the whole dual battery setup completely.

I have a cheap AGM deep cycle that was given to me. SO when I am driving I will have the fridge/freezer connected to the rear 12v cig socket that runs off main battery. Once I am at camp site, I will plug it into the spare deep cycle and connect the solar to the battery via a mppt controller.

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Something that I should look into.
Pros and cons, this set up vs dual battery?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jay see

Something that I should look into.
Pros and cons, this set up vs dual battery?

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Start a thread I think you get good info good and bad.
Id be interested in what ppl think

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Start a thread I think you get good info good and bad.
Id be interested in what ppl think

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We do, but a bit later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jay see

Something that I should look into.
Pros and cons, this set up vs dual battery?

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PROs

- Simplicity: no mucking around as its easy DIY (dont need auto leccy)

- Cost savings: the whole thing would cost me about 350 as compared to about atleast 500 to 1000 for battery isolator and other bits and pieces and even more if I go for a decent BMS. More money if installed by a auto leccy. Dont need massive AH battery.

- Long runtime: Potentially unlimited run time with decent sunny days and correct placement.

- Future proof: Can add a dual battery system down the line if I feel the need and wont have to throw any existing bits away.

- Light weight dont need super massive battery for this setup.

CONs

- cant wire up accessories like UHF or light bar to it easily.

- needs manual cut over from crank battery to the spare deep cycle when u reach camp site.

On a average we go once a month camping for about 3 nights max so this setup should work for us.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ronin

PROs

- Simplicity: no mucking around as its easy DIY (dont need auto leccy)

- Cost savings: the whole thing would cost me about 350 as compared to about atleast 500 to 1000 for battery isolator and other bits and pieces and even more if I go for a decent BMS. More money if installed by a auto leccy. Dont need massive AH battery.

- Long runtime: Potentially unlimited run time with decent sunny days and correct placement.

- Future proof: Can add a dual battery system down the line if I feel the need and wont have to throw any existing bits away.

- Light weight dont need super massive battery for this setup.

CONs

- cant wire up accessories like UHF or light bar to it easily.

- needs manual cut over from crank battery to the spare deep cycle when u reach camp site.

On a average we go once a month camping for about 3 nights max so this setup should work for us.

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Thanks Ronin.
I've set up a thread for this.

I have a thin film amorphous panel 122W that seems to do the trick. It's a bit heavy and lives in our van most of the time, but not much in overheads and runs a SunTech solar controller from the dual battery. Runs the fridge mostly (with ease). The best we got out of it was 7.8 amps.