Diagnosis help - noise under load sounds like transmission but....

Yeah, do the uni's anyway. They are too cheap and too easy for not doing.

I have access to an enough area of flat concrete as well as plenty of tree stump cut offs. So, I do take solo risks
on a running engine, while crawling under it.

I didn't understand the "GoPro mount" bit.

If you are planning to keep the fourby for long term and panning to stay as a middle class bloke, then do collect enough el cheapo tools & learn as much as you can on how to do the repair stuff yourself.
By el cheapo, I meant not necessarily spending money on Sydchrome or Snapon tools, which are usually reserved for pro's.
Instead I stick with generic ones from Supercheap(sometime called SuperDear), Bunnings, etc.
Fleabay and Bumtree are also good places to gather generic but good tools.

One bloke here(Clunk I think) said the owning a fourby is a privilege.
I reckon it's true for most of us.
In my case I quite haven't felt that way 'cos I gota 25 year old GQ and I've been doing every little and big repairs myself for past thee years or so. Either way, it's pretty clear that owning a fourby is not cheap.
It's either spending big dollars at the mechanic shop or spending plenty of our own time/labour.
It is give and take at the end of the day.

All good - I was a mechanic for a few years when a youngster so I have a lifetime collection of tools and can rebuild the engine if I need to. But being my first fourby diagnosing is problematic for some of the stuff. I tend to get decent tools as I've had super cheap etc snap on me before and I'd rather pay more for reliability.

If I have to skimp elsewhere I do.

Where did you get the unis from?

Cheers again mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK - introducing the all new GoPro video diagnostics.
This was mounted under drivers side almost directly up and under the central pillar. I need some better eyes than mine to determine if they can see inconsistencies in the drive shaft and you most certainly can hear without all the wind noise to my ears what sounds like chain rattle in the transfer case..

so here's my vid http://youtu.be/-wmgx_eJ3ng
and here is the reference vid I discovered https://youtu.be/ReqaGtW0SSE

Thanks!

DG

Ok, cool mate. Didn't know you are a former mechanic. I will catch up with you when I need to rebuild the bottom end of my GQ. :)
If I'm sure the transfer case is the problem, then I would focus on it.
I've never broken any of the SuperDear or Barnings tools, except when I try to use breaker bars on small hand tools.
I don't fix cars everyday for a living, so I can't justify having pro brand tools.
I bought a complete socket & ratchet tool kit box from Total Tools 15 years ago for $130. Still going without a scratch.
I can't simply afford to fork out extra money for pro tools which I may only use occasionally.
Snap-on tools are good if you can afford them, and comes with life time warranty.
Sydchrome, Kinchrome, etc are Taiwanese made.
I get the uni's, bearings, etc from Bearing Wholesalers. They have a store in Thomastown.
Or try Burson Eltham.

Legend thanks mate - I semi regularly rebuild my bike engine and am the bloke responsible for getting mates with zero mechanical aptitude out of trouble on camping and fishing trips so I opt for kingchrome predominantly but like you I have some El cheapos that still work great!

Cheers for the headsup on bearings!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2 x night work, 2 x filthy hands, 4 x new uni joints, 1 x broken pinkie, 4 x skinned knuckles and
1 x persistent problem isolated to transfer case
/ transmission.

So all new bits and fluids etc gave now amplified the problem and I have a vibration.....
Bugger- looks like it's time to save some pennies....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait..... Hold the fort.....

After my all nighter I had an eventful day of couch snooze. I decided to fill the old girl up, do Tyers, and I figured topping of the transmission fluid wouldn't hurt as I noticed last night some of my fluid lean is transmission fluid which is green and very fluid with bugger all viscosity.... Engine oils was fine, transfer case was checked two days ago and at required level and correct fluid. Brand new fully greased unis all around I thought to myself, let's take it off Tarmac use 4by on and off, splash through puddles and hit heaps of potholes reasonably fast... It was fun and aside from the God awful noise and seeming lack of power all seemed to work and pretty tight.

So as I idled out of the dirt onto the Tarmac there it was, but hang on, only for a second and only between 2000 and 2400 rpm and only at very low speeds now.

I immediately tried every scenario I had experienced the issue... Effectively gone, still evident as mentioned at very low speeds but far less pronounced and fat shorter duration.

So as I have driven and experienced the noise without each prop/drive shaft and the noise persisted,, and from my video and investigative research I am convinced the noise was the transfer chain.

Given the leakages I think the auto Trans "specialist" that had the bus before I collected it and purchased was in fact a muppet of the highest order, I think he has reassembled the entire system haphazard and I have dodgy or damaged gaskets causing leaks, j also think he has put the wrong atf fluid in the transmission and there was her oil in the transfer case so as far as being an auto transmission specialist maybe it refers to an automatic qualification if you can spell atf at TAFE when doing the how to rip off people course...

So along with my drive helping settle everything in its quite possible they wrong fluid is causing issues without correct level of resistance...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok it's still there - I'm not 100% on the mechanics of the transfer case - I'll need to re read but anyone tell me does the chain still travel in 2wd if yes then that's what it is if not its prob a bearing somewhere in transmission

It's transmission Fml. I took out 2 litres to inspect and found small silver metal in the strainer on my funnel and then when I checked the fluid level was now correct so it had absolutely been overfilled given its been leaking as well that would explain why and the fluid is slightly green but not due to coolant so whatever atf it was filled to the top with is probably the wrong type as well.... This is something that may ground me for a while as with the other stuff going on in my life I am skint....

you'll find there's a good chance the green fluid is the correct type of ATF for the transfer case.
check listing for your model.
I was using this in all my cars as the suggested optional upgrade fluid, being synthetic.

ATF is lighter & doesn't suck power form the drive train that's why it's used.
And using a synthetic can mean extended drain period, so it ends out cheaper.
due to the fact its not being exposed to combustion cycles like engine oil.
off rd well there's water dirt ingress I suppose.
who cares it's only 2 ltrs.

So robbo following that train of thought suspect transfer case fluid used in transmission?

Couldn't remember name of oil in the wee hrs this morning.

castrol Transmac Z,
last bottle purchased the colour is now a brown.
but make sure that it's still listed as the optional upgrade.
it was listed for my GTR case as optional, and it was fine in that.
that never went slow in the bush, lol

It used to cover "Nissan Matic A fluid" from memory,
but up to letter D now thats why I say check the listings and cross reference etc

If it were over filled, think some one had parked it on a hill to do that.
I'm not that into off rd, but it may of been a trick trying to compensate for extreme angles and slower kph speeds etc.
normal driving would then not allow oil to behave as it should.
but thats only a guess.
or simply done thinking they were adding extra protection, or trying to hide that noise, ouch.
Just change the oil out and see what happens.
If it fixes it , ya have done alot of jobs that won't need doing again for a while.

Hi Dave just looking at your GoPro vision on my crappy screen,
Do you think there is enough slip on the yoke if it has one,
also whats to the right of the tail shaft it seems imo to move
also check at the 1.08 mark, could just be a bush on the way out.

To the right is the transmission and sensor plug...
I'll look into yoke but have new news

the noise now persists in park and neutral and seems to somewhere in or above my sub tank and only at that rev range still?

There has been no difference until you drained the excess ATF from transfer case, correct?.

Maybe - temperature angle of truck fuel loads driven angry or not etc....

Humm if the noise is there in park and neutral !.
case doesn't turn in anger until you either roll or move in gear.

so thinking about the oil , someone has simply overfilled case etc,
but the problem is much further forward.

The thing is absolutely a noise or even the noise above sub tank?

yeah listening to the noise on Y-tube
think you will find the noise is simply traveling and not where ya think it is.
nothing above sub tank but floor pan.
the transfer case can't,wont make a single sound until you either drive the car under power or roll in angle gear.

over the net it sounds like bearing chatter, a worn out bearing.
looks like ya may have to bite the bullet and get some paid for advise & or R&R something.

guessing, if your hearing it in park and neutral, tranny input shaft area.

Yep cheers Robo, I didn't think there'd be anything above sub so given the genesis of this issue and all the steps take to remediate I figured it had to be a bearing and now you've said it I just had a face palm moment and went duh!it has to be a moving part. If it happens when transmission disengaged and vehicle stationary the only moving parts could be from engine to transmission. It's definitely not in the engine bay. Given this all started as a suspected transmission issue and those points it must be where engine meets transmission which is where my fluid leak appears to be coming from - in short of course it's the bloody bearings at the input - if it's not I'm giving up!

Anyone had an input shaft job done before? Approx cost?

Firstly take it to a work shop and get a 2nd opinion.
Don't just take my word for it.
Where here to help, but there's only so much you can do at the other end of a key board.
Shafts are available for a manual box, but yours is auto isn't it!.
such a job requires great deal of knowledge.
may-be go to a reco box with nomad valve body at same time!
Rodney @ aust auto etc or what ever it is?
relies your sort a in a pickle, but can't help further.
good luck with it.

Yep cheers Robo - I actually think it's probably a torque converter issue - collapsed bearing or similar. When the atf is cold it is more viscous and supports the tc. As it heats up it thins and given I suspect the wrong fluid was used and may be a petroleum based fluid or at least partially it heats up to the point of becoming a gas and massively reduces the heat dissipating and lubricating qualities a fully synthetic would give. That along with the additional strain my stuck auto lock hub was putting on the system is likely what led to a bearing or Tc clutch failure although I'm not getting any slip and I believe lock up is still occurring so more likely the tc or bearing.

I'm looking into replacement parts as well as whole trans. I know I can get it out and back for $800 cash plus parts so depending on how my end of year review goes next week and the attached incentive payment will dictate next steps. Otherwise I've learnt a shedload about the RE5R05A removal, rebuild and replace process from reading the entire service manual as well as everything available on the web, I may end up doing it myself. Regardless if the box comes out I'll be improving the valve bodies.

Appreciate the heads up mate! Cheers

Probably should worry that the noise has stopped suddenly and relatively back to normal....

you changed the fluid?,
And its an auto right !
it may of been a valve/switch oscillating.
could of been a bit of muck and now flushed threw to pan hopefully