Yeah its a bloody good winch... Not as good as a high mount though!!
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Quick question to anybody who has played with these winches...
There are two types of brake shaft used by Warn as pictured below.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/110.jpg
I have the top, older two piece shaft. I have read that people are having trouble with the new Warn service kits and this type of shaft, in that after assembly there is too much play and the ball bearings can drop out, apparently the spring may not be long enough?
Has anybody used this shaft and run into this problem?
Another question I have, and I did not pay attention when pulling it down...
On the rebuild videos on the web I have not seen anybody reuse the small keys that Warn supply in the rebuild kit. Can somebody show me where these go? I know on the brake shaft but at what time...
Items 36 on this diagram
Attachment 59781
New motor and service kits are due to me next Monday.... can't wait, I am going to get the motor colour matched and use that to paint the housings.
I have no idea but those keys look like they lock parts 37, 53 and 47 together. And a they go together in the order of the diagram then locked in place by part 50 and 36 which looks like a circlip?
Yeah they're not long enough to reach part 43. 43 is locked to 47 by 46.
I think 36 is to lock 37 to 47 but in all the rebuild videos it seems that nobody reuses them...
Special delivery today from Amazon!
My parts have arrived, but they put the service kits in the same box as the big heavy motor... one of the brake discs is broken!
Damnit! And apparently I will need the new type of solid ratchet disc, mine is the old one with 6 holes that used brake pucks like this pic...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...4/Dcp_3955.jpg
Warn say you can't use that disc with the new brake discs so I will need the solid ratchet disc.
ABs disk has holes too. I used the disks.
The key ways lock part 37 to the slots in the end of the brake shaft. Outer hub only
Sorry Winnie I have missed a bit of this thread, I didn't realize you were asking questions here bud, I don't read everything.
The spring only provides internal tension so the brake Disengages. The length of the gear that you have taken off in the pic determines everything else? Where have you read that the bearings fall out mate? Are you sure it's not just some flog who put it together wrong? The spring plays no part in that.
Hmm so obviously you don't think there would be any issues using the old disc with the new brake pads.
I don't know what to do about this brake disc... I have to ship the whole service kit back to Amazon and they will post a new kit out today. But I have to pay postage and they will refund it later.
I might have 1
To be honest Winnie I liked the look of the disk with the holes more. I thought that was a later model. Like running a slotted rotor. Did not cross my mind at all that it might cause dramas! Still don't think it would. If in doubt post a pic of your disk with holes in the HiMount FB group and ask there, there are plenty of guys there that rebuild these all the time.
I have that same brake shaft as the top one. It is now in ABs winch
Cool, I think it might have just been somebody who had done it wrong. Thanks Darren.
Yeah reading the instructions supplied with the service kit, it says that if you have the one with holes then you will need to replace it... I'll ask on the fb group and come back here.
Wouldn't believe it, spoke to a "Bryan" at Amazon about the broken brake disc, I suggested they post me on of those as they list it as a seperate part.
No sorry, we can't do that. I will send you a new service kit and you keep the old one! Bonus!
This is turning into a great score Winnie well done
So this was my issue with the brake ratchet disc, mine looks like this.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...f4072f3178440a
It is suggested to use this one
https://scontent-lax1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=56211E4F
And it is obvious to see that the solid disc would have better braking abilities, but a lot of people use the first one with the standard Warn brake pads without any issues at all, so I will use what I have.
And how was your one damaged in transport???
Here's the goodies I received today
Attachment 59795
I will get the motor colour matched so that the housings will match it.
I will call the bloke welding the housings tomorrow and mention I want it for this weekend, my mate still has the brake shaft too so when I get the housings back I will take them all to his place and we will tap a thread into that and sandblast the housings.
Not that ratchet disc... the brake pad. It's a bit of friction material, like this.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/07/113.jpg
I think we're overusing the word "disc" here lol, I just read back and yeah I see the confusion...
I reckon the holes would provide some level of cooling and also a leading edge for friction anyway. That was my logic when i put ABs together anyway. I get the face friction but its Clamp friction anyway. THe taper on teh cam lock gets tighter and tighter the more weight you put on it. thats the idea. You will be fine mate. I was interested to hear if anyones friction material actually crunched and collapsed but doesnt look like it. Go for it i reckon.
I'm about to pull mine apart soon but I'm quite sure mine has holes in it. Haven't had any issues with brake performance.
Just pulled mine apart and yep its got the one with holes. Brake pads look good as new, she'll be apples i reckon. Oil was a bit gunky and freespool clutch was bent but knew that, but would be why it was hard to engage / disengage. Glad it's getting some love.
You planning on getting this thing up and running by next weekend?
Nah Ross, it won't be that soon.
I remembered too that when I pulled it apart it used the newer type of brake friction material anyway, so it had been run like that since god knows how long... probably since new so I wonder if Warn would have assembled it like that.
Yeah your freespool was a bit of a bugger... gonna get a new assembly for it? I thought I had a spare but they are both broken far beyond repair!
Hey Winnie I use Hammertone Charcoal for my cases and reckon they look as good or better than brand new mate.
Tax just came through... Woohoo! Time to make up a shopping list and go to road runner when I get a chance. Need rope, hook, fairlead, switches etc...
Yes I thnk it would hold less heat John. The gurus say though that the Gigglepin upgrade provides a wider brake pad combined with no hole to have maximum contact patch equals bigger brakes. Mathematically correct. I was more concerned to hear if anyone had a brake pad collapse due to the leading edges of the holes? Clearly not which is what I expected. Winner. AB's winch is the same as is Liftlid and Rossco.
Yeah that's all I was worried about too Darren.
I have had my own car hanging off of Liftlid's and also Rossco's winch before too so I have no issue with using what I have, winner.
Looks to me like the new type of friction material covers more surface area than the old puck style anyway.
I'm gonna try and get to Roadrunner this arvo to grab some more goodies.
Roadrunner is too easy for me though mate, 10 mins up the road and they do look after me, the amount of stock they carry is beyond ridiculous.
What sort of dollars are those stainless fairleads? I need an offset fairlead.
Yeah I've got the Millweld, no extra holes for me. I just saw the price for the +76mm stainless fairlead on the 4WDshed website and if that's the price range then I am not interested and will be happy with an alloy one... lol
I finally found the bloody brake pawl cap that I was missing at my local ARB, $15 as a brand new warn spare part, even in a Warn bag.
A big washer would have worked too but I like genuine
Yeah the Stainless are bloody expensive mate. Look trick though.
here is the standard width one from Biders
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Winch-Fairlead-Stainless
I need offset though Darren... but yeah maybe I will get one of those at a later date. I will be fine with alloy for now.
Don't mind the look of a good aluminium one at all. Looks like Roadrunner have a nice looking polished one, pretty reasonable too. . .
Quick question for the hi mount gurus, thought id chuck it up here. . . Going to tap drain & filler plugs in mine but was thinking of putting the filler on the side of the cover just to be different and prefer the look a little. Was wondering however if this would cause any issues with strength of the housing at all. Not sure what forces are going on in that area, don't want to compromise it and find out in the wilderness?
The Gigglepin clutch assembly has an oil filler plug in that... I have read of people putting the filler plug in the side of the housing, I'd rather put it on the side too.
http://smithiengineering.com.au/medi...r_assembly.jpg
Does anybody have photos of their drain plugs?
Went around to Roadrunner this arvo and got a great deal on the 40m of rope, alloy fairlead, hook and mounting bolts.
Need to ring Clint on Monday and tell him I want my winch back soon... he's had it for 3 weeks now and has not touched it.
You can fit your filler to the side if you like. Plenty of room. You would have to use a syringe to fill it though? Do it to the front quarter of the casing. Alternatively you could drill and tap big enough for a filler on the side then instead of a plug bolt use a male/female reducer and fit a pnuematic fitting and your breather in the same hole.