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Did you do both together , that is remove the mesh plates and fit the HPD at the same time?
If thats the case that would be a huge increase in air flow, and you compensated that with extra boost?
On that thinking removing the mesh and replacing the OE hoses should see some gains as well
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-PA...00722191&rt=nc
If funds allowed this would save a lot of work and looks very well built
Go figure you can buy the bit Im making
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Patrol-GU...item1c4f3b4d28
check out the shop must be new
I spoke to these guys about this six months ago. They said they had one they were designing.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
mine is about 1/4 of the price and will do the same thing Im hoping
They should also do alloy IC piping kits
Looking at what they have made I would rather it made in alloy or stainless myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I'm going for a fully tigged stainless number,
bummer as it might be wrapped not sure yet
Measured up the OE MAF outlet and its 80mm, and heres me thinking 76mm would be way to big.
luckily I have a heap of 76mm stainless to fabricate the inlet pipe out of. will now need to measure where the hose goes into the turbo.
Im sure the 76mm is bigger than the convoluted hosing they use as OE.
Need all my bits to arrive so I can assemble and test fit.
Found some 3.25" x 3" reducers
Has anyone upped the size of the steel boost pipes on there ZD30.
.
Nearly have all the gear need for the air intake from the airbox to the turbo.
it goes from 80mm at the air box to 50mm at the turbo, good thing is I can do the lot gradually reduced
out of stainless steel, I'll then wrap it to try to keep incoming air cool.
Found a mob in the States that make Hi flow MAF housings seems the Audi ,VW, Volvo and Opel
use a very similar style MAF, these units are 76mm thats bigger than the HPD unit but not by much.
plus cheaper too.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251793087...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Can you do a before and after dyno run?
yeah I'll try, Ive been able to source all the fittings in stainless, .so it should be all smooth running from
76 at the MAF housing right down to 50mm at the turbo, using one 45 in 76mm and a 90 elbow long radius
in 63mm Ill need to tig an elbow in to it to run a line in AN8 the catch can, and braided as well,
Probably end up wrapping it to keep it cooler, might be interesting to see the figures though not huge lol
There is a pipe under the airbox I need to figure out if its required or not, nearly there
Has any one changed the OE steel pipes on the Di motor.
looks like a few gains can be had there as well from upsizing
the pipe diam a tad and possibly wrapping it
For anyone in the know, the OE intake piping is about say 70mm all the way then reduces to 50mm at the turbo.
Which will be most efficient running 76mm all the way then reducing it to 50mm or
Gradually reduce it from 76mm to 63mm to 50mm,
I will be making it from stainless steel and tig welded, not convoluted like the OE.
Im using a VW passat 76mm Maf housing as the VW uses the same maf as the Patrol.
Does the actual MAF sensor have to be matched to the inside diameter of the housing to get the correct reading or doesn't it work that way?
from what i can gather the answer is no
HPD do a billet housing that is claimed 30% bigger
and uses the OE MAF , as I asked Mudski.
A few posts back Mark explained it a bit
EDIT ;; plus i have a snorkle fitted
Hmm, I think it does have to be very similar sized piping, remember your stock maf housing slightly reduces in size where the MAF sit inside the piping to speed up the air flow over the maf sensor, the HPD actually is slightly larger in that same area where the MAF sensor sits in the piping(it is honed out slightly where the MAF sensor sits, allowing more air past the maf sensor and slowing the air going past as well), if anything the HPD maf housing could do with being just a little smaller in that area, it is not 30% bigger BUT allows up to 30% more airflow past the MAF sensor tricking it..
Ideally imo the HPD maf housing could do with only allowing 15%-20% or so more airflow past the maf sensor but if you have a chip it can be used to allow more fuel and get a good air fuel mix going and achieve what your aiming for.
Going to change in intake pipe first going from 76mm tapered down to 50mm
That alone may increase air flow, and yes I have a DP chip fitted. Then I will
increase the MAF housing if nothing has happened.
Well most of my intake has arrived , need to go to see a guy about the best [most efficient] way to go.
1. 76mm all the way reduced at the turbo to 50mm
2. 76 again and gradually size it down to 63 then 50mm at the turbo
3. is to run 63mm all the way and reduce at the turbo to 50 mm.
Must admit polished stainless looks awesome , plus most of the t bolt hose clamps
arrived too and some special size silicon hose
Laser cutter is cutting me an air box lid out of stainless steel
to which Ill tig weld a 76mm stainless elbow, getting there>
In the end Ill have a few combo's to try for the best efficiency
Hopefully it'll all arrive this week
Just found a nice piece of 6mm stainlees in my shed Perfect for a lid.
can anyone tell me about the catch can line that goes into the intake hose after the MAF.
is this just recycling fumes from the catch can
the other line goes to the rocker cover
Can it be eliminated and use a tee from catch can to rocker?
Where are you going to send the outlet hose from the catch can?
Option 1 everyday of the week. Keep the pipe as big as you can right up to the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
You can eliminate and just vent the hose that went into the pipe just after the maf to atmosphere. It is a pollution device though so it should return to a low pressure area.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Thanks Matt I was going to cap it at the catch can,
Was just down talking to Andrew at On Track, he thinks the theory is right
but what gains I get may be minimal, I do need to buy a Hump hose which I did.
I think in the end Id be happy with a small boost gain,to keep EGT down, plus it looks neater lol
Minimal gains but more efficiency I'll take that
You cant cap it at the catch can. The vent line from your rocker cover needs to able to breathe. If you cap the catch can then thw crankcase will pressurise and cause all sorts of dramas.
So what you can do is have your hose from the rocker cover go into your catch can then on the outlet of your catch can just run a length of hose into your chassis rail leaving it open on the end.
Cool thanks again , now to source some larger IC boost pipes.
they increase in Diam at the IC, they could also be wrapped to keep temps down too
this will replace my OE IC piping
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/90-degree...item35d53dc5c9
For anyone up sizing the pipes they will need 60mm
had a bit of a think and want it to look the part soQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Im going to tig weld a fitting into one of the Stainless elbows
I have some AN 10 braided hose to pretty it up with the right terminals
Taking this into account I removed my maf housing and measured it up yesterday, the ID has a 2.5mm tapper in it with it being larger on the in going side. So I chucked it in the lathe and removed the taper. To try and slow the airspeed over the maf as I could only get 14psi, with moderate spool up, before getting limp mode. First thing I noticed was how much smoother it is at idle.(my passenger side airbag used to vibrate). I have uped my boost to 16psi now and have had limp mode once since. I'm gunner take another .5mm out on Monday and see how it go's. Is the hpd housing I'd straight through or tapered?Quote:
Originally Posted by SG1
From looking at mine I think it was straight through the taper is on the outside. The area where the MAF is located is thicker. I can check mine on Friday if you need exact.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paule
I am running 17psi now with no issues.
How did the stainless end up?
Good work, basically that's all the HPD Maf housing is, BUT has slightly larger where the MAF sits, if I was to do it again I would do exactly as your doing and just hone the original MAF housing ever so slightly, not as much as the HPD, but admit since installing the HPD maf housing and air box lid have not had limp mode once but needed a chip to put more fuel in, on a side note I have tried several different psi rating from 14 which was all I could get max before mods to 20 psi and have found that by my gauge 16.5 psi is perfect and has really good smooth power gains with egts in the low 300's at 100k's now, much better than before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paule
I have had the same results as SG1.
Zero incidents of limp mode both towing and not.
As I said earlier max boost is 17psi, 10 psi at 100 km/H and EGTs 250c
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-0-OD-76...item3aa73184d2
If you cut the air box this maf housing will fit with a piece of 76mm silicone hose.
Then source the stainless and hoses to complete, Mine will have an elbow
tigged into the 45 elbow for catch can fumes
Just waiting on some more t-bolt clamps to arrive and Ill be fitting it
My new airbox lid should be cut next week hopefully
@ Paule how much you think MAX can be skimmed off the MAF housing
1.5mm max
Yeah TD I think you could open the ID up to 74mm no worries as the OD is 80mm. I just think 74mm ID is too much and will affect your low down performance.
Hey Dinger did you get the exact dimensions from you hpd maf housing on Friday? I'm thinking of just opening up the area the maf sits in. So 72.5mm inlet, 73mm where the maf sits. (maybe more but I'm just going a little bit at a time) 72.5 out letQuote:
Originally Posted by Dinger
Once I've fit it all up and it runs ok I'll put links to all components needed to complete for yourself.
Cost wise its about $100 no more, and that's for the
stainless elbow, 45, silicone hoses and T-bolt clamps,
most is easy to do, except the hole for the catch can hose.
Not sure you'll be taking much material from the OE MAF housing it has very thin walls.
Sorry guys I didn't get the info for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paule
If either of you still need it I can get it later in the week once the weather clears the rig doesn't fit in the garage.
This will be my plan "B" the 76,, elbow will be tig welded to the plate,
after I have shaped it to suit the air box, but looking at my intake I dont think it will be neccessary
I may use the airbox lid with the OE maf as I think I'll have plenty of "EXTRA" air flow
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HPD-NISSA...item41823a2d47
Can someone explain why this would work better than an OE lid????
Low radius elbow cant see how it can "flow" better
Still like my lid better so far , thats if it works,, lol
I think I can source an OE lid and glue the 76mm elbow to it,
that will make it the same as those $450 jobs,,,,,,,, well similar
Edit,,,,,, all my 76mm and 50mm T bolt clamps have arrived,
or constant pressure. Also my 3/8th M/F stainless steel elbow arrived so I'll get that
tig welded in for catch can fumes, I could vent it to atmosphere but
back through the motor is fine, and will add a bit of detail to the new intake pipe
The catch can lines will be AN10 braided hose with black hose ends
Nearly there just need to tig weld that elbow, I have two different 76mm 90 degree elbows to use .
One is a short radius as pitcured the other is a long radius, hopefully fit it on the week end
Are you going to do a before and after dyno run , I reckon it would be good if you could , to give people a accurate idea if this is a worthwhile modification for dollers spent vrs results ?
Then he's gonna make one for me.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by gaddy