Not good for your turbo reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by AB
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Not good for your turbo reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by AB
I'm with you Winnie, cooler bay at the cost of cooking your turbo.
A few guys here run them with no problems one on a 6.5 chev and the other a 3ltr I think.
and thats over a few years,could be like chicken soup lol.
And temps under normal driving conditions would be very low compared to any race application
which few here would reach if ever. lol
So if they're very low, why put one on?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
This got me curious last night and done some reading and googling, and yeah in very extreme cases of racing heat they wrap them up to keep them nice and warm.
If it's to keep aux battery away from the oven, maybe look at alternatives.
But wrapping up a turbo under an already grenade prone bonnet, this is just asking for issues. The Garrets they run are oil cooled, and thus oil circulates through the turbo. Keeping the turbo hotter = hotter oil, through the engine too. Just my understanding and my 2 cents.
I can't see how this can be good for the turbo regardless of race application or not it must be shortening its life and I know I'd rather pay for a new battery over a cooked turbo any day,
They don't really effect turbo life. Basically the beanie insulates the turbine housing there for the heat stays in the gas, which as 3dogs has said heat = energy and this is how the turbo does its work, so the heat doesn't get into the material as easy. Now if the heat is staying in the gas and not being soaked up by the turbo housing and cartridge then the oil will be unaffected.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
These are not a bad idea. And as I said earlier I would prefer to ceramic coat and then apply a beanie.
This is what you want (to a point obviously). If you lose energy (heat) to material then that is energy lost that can drive our turbine. Now the effects might not be able to be felt on the zd but this can improve response from the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
have a read it may explain a bit more like NN said
http://sti.wigglit.com/wordpress/?p=689
I would ceramic coat but that means being off the road,
had great results on other 4x4
Plus it may eliminate hot spots along the manifold
Thermal dynamics
Your mate at auto xperts when I asked his opinion on them said not to put one on unless I wanted a cooked turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Why do they cool them with oil or water if they operate better hot?
Isnt the only reason they are hot is because they are fed by exhaust so in theory if you had forced cold air feeding it instead hot exhaust the whole thing would run even better?
I'm definitely no expert!
But is this right?
Heat is energy but the heat energy is a by-product of the combustion process and during combustion the energy that's turned into heat is lost energy as it's not turned back into kinetic energy. It's the pressure, or kinetic energy, of the exhaust being forced out of the engine that spins the turbine and continues to be kinetic energy which forces the air in.
Oil and coolant cooling are for the moving parts,Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
So for the heat in the turbine gasses..... you need fuel to make the heat, you need the heat to make the boost, so in theory, if you can keep in some heat from combustion, you should be able to make the same boost responce with less fuel.
Thats why I have ceramic coated so much in order to somewhat test the theory
same thing its all about thermal dynamics with heat equalling energy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
take the beanie away and replace it with ceramic coating and every one goes wow great idea
maybe you,l be up for it sunday mate be interesting how you read your tempsQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I'm still dumb Benny, how does the temperature of the exhaust gas make the turbine spin faster?
Isn't it the speed/volume of the exhaust gas exiting the engine, therefore the speed it turns the turbo impeller, that controls the speed/volume of the air getting pushed in to create boost?
Another reason my temps might be down could be because my IC is not being used as a heat sink.
Just a thought,,,,
They are not down heaps but noticably lower than before.
And you can feel the difference again not a huge amount,
but you can feel it
Yeah it is speed and volume, and you get that from combustion and the heat energy from that. If you inject small amounts of fuel and get a smaller bang you arnt going that energy or volume or velocity to spool it.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Too much fuel and you'll end up quenching the combustion and going backwards.
Thats how I understand it
Just thinking from a fluids point of view.
The the volume of hot air exits the engine to turbo.
As soon as its is in the turbo you get heat sync into the turbo and atmosphere. While this is happen the air is cooling, and cooling the air reduces its volume.
So what the beanie does is it retains the heat threw to the exhaust, where it can start condensing as it likes.
Seeing the heat loss is less threw the turbo it means more volume threw it, which means more efficiency.
Td you may be seeing lower engine bay temps, so a lower ic temp over all which means it can work more effective, thus more poke.
Yeah its not neck snapping but it is noticable be it smoother less lag I'm not sure.
still need to go for a long drive when I can but has to be better than before IMO
Whilst searching for info about the beanie saw one guy make
an awesome heat shield using half of a polished stainless steel pot.
It fit over his turbo perfectly
Heat = pressure. Pressure differential is what helps the turbo work. So if you lose heat your are losing energy hence the turbo cannot work as efficiently.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
So if you had two turbos hooked up on a bench and you fed them both with exactly the same volume and speed of air (say from a big compressor or something) but one was being fed hot air and the other cold air, the one being fed hot air would be pushing more out its output side?
I would say yes it would. As hot air expands, so in theory there would be more volume being pushed though because the air has expanded...Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
@ Roofy just went for a quick blast up to Melton 22ks and sitting on 100kph at 2000 rpm my EGTs were 300 c
so very happy with that, boost was 10 psi
Interesting topic.. Have thought of using one before but never bought one. Will do some more reading.
Be interested in what you come up with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warehouseno27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warehouseno27
I'm interested in the interestQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I'm interested that you're interested in the interestQuote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
I've noticed lately all the later model Cat gear at work have beanies on the turbos and I don't think under hood temps would be a big deal as most are very well ventilated, so I've thought there must be something good about them. The manufacturer is working to increase efficiency and lower emissions on each new model. These turbos work really hard too. Can't remember the figures but I think they are around 30 to 50psi boost.
Just done a quick search on google.
The turbo blanket for a particular model of cat engine is over $10,000 so I don't think they would have them for no reason.
Also found this
Quote:
Designed for the single turbo found on the Cat 3406E and C-15 1994-2004, this high quality turbo blanket is easy to install. The blanket is designed to protect other components underneath the hood by reducing under hood temperatures. The blanket also keeps the exhaust side of the turbo hot, thus providing increased throttle response as hotter air exits quicker and spools the turbo faster . The turbo blanket also keeps the intake side of the turbo cooler allowing for denser air to enter the engine which contains more oxygen and gives a more complete burn inside the cylinder.
I dont run the engine cover and the main thing I noticed before I fitted the beanie was how hot the IC got.
now you can touch it. This morning I wrapped the inlet pipe on the IC to hopefully get lwer IC temps as well.
I read that bit you linked and thats why I brought it to try and make what I have more efficient
so how is the turbo beanie holding up threedogs . i am thinking of getting one . does anyone know what size fits the commonrail motor turbo . and is there any issue with fitting around the variable vane actuator . when i put the 3" pipe on i could not get the heatsheild out . i am going to change the coolant soon , and if i remove the cabin heater flexible hoses i think i will have the room i need to get the heatsheild out . the beanie and some lagging around the top of the dump pipe would be easier to remove and work around .
Going fine not a single issue related to the Beanie,
I have noticed a big difference in the temp of my Aux battery
Much, much cooler than before, so very happy.
Ive also wrapped a few pipe/hoses in gold foil
to further keep the temps as low as I can get them
Check out this if any one are still interested
http://prosportgauges.com/heat-reducing-products.aspx
thanks threedogs , good to know about the lower engine bay temps , i don't have a second battery ( yet ) , but i would think it would help the intercooler do it's job better . there are different size beanies , anyone know what size fits the commonrail motor turbo .
@ nipagu7 It was one of the smaller ones size 2 I think
Here you go ,I have a Di and its a perfect fit
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400770282...649&rmvSB=true
BA runs ones as well as a few others
thanks threedogs . any problems fitting it around the vnt actuator , do you have to cut or modify it to fit ?
Heres an update or road report on those Turbo beanies, been 3 yrs now and not one issue.
its all about thermal dynamics keep the heat where it should be and thats inside the turbo
and dump pipe. I run a Trojan wet cell 115 ah AUX battery right next to the turbo and happy
to report no loss of liquid from the Aux battery at all so Im giving this one two thumbs up
Very pleased for a small outlet one of the better mods Ive done .
Hey threedogs, do you know if the one mentioned earlier and still available here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400770282...649&rmvSB=true
will suit a GU Y61 3lilre? There is a quite large cowling around the turbo that would appear to prevent or at least hinder fitting.
I have a second battery in the usual spot and looking for ways to stop it getting so hot.
Hey threedogs - I tried a T3 sized beanie but it's too big (wastegate actuator gets on the way). Any hints on what size to buy? GU with a stock turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Cant remember where I got mine from, bit happening
all I know it was aT3