Yeah nah they are not part of the kit as they should never need replacing. The lack of them could certainly be giving you all kinds of issues. Replace and refit into the outer grooveQuote:
Originally Posted by K1W1
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Yeah nah they are not part of the kit as they should never need replacing. The lack of them could certainly be giving you all kinds of issues. Replace and refit into the outer grooveQuote:
Originally Posted by K1W1
Quick question, I'm not far off getting this job done, should I do the wheel bearings at the same time everything is apart or just stick to my original plan of swivel hubs and kingpin bearings? I need to buy the kit and trying to decide if I should get the wheel bearings too....
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If you haven't done them before I'd personally do them. Preventative maintenanceQuote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
I promise you Drew, you will bloody Kick yourself for even asking this when you have it stripped down. No brainer for me mate. for the cost, just do it. if they look OK then clean them up and repack them and put a set in a Ziplock bag for spares but replace for sure. Buy the kit that includes Wheel Bearings for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
Thanks mate.
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When are you looking to do the job Drew?
Not 100% sure mate. Some time reasonably soon after Christmas. It's one of a bunch of jobs I have to do. I just need to recover a bit more as I get bloody tired at the moment after not doing very much.
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Have just done this job and the wheel bearings are dead set easy to do. Worth doing at the same time.
Many thanks MudRunnerTD, will be using this thread shortly!!
Not sure if its been covered yet but how much grease should I be buying to do the full job? Will be doing it in a couple of weekends
Not a lot really. A tub of LMM grease and a tub of Bearing grease. You will have enough to do the job 5 times.Quote:
Originally Posted by scubasteve
Ok so did the rebuild over the last couple of days. This write up was a great help and I knew exactly what needed to be done. Mind you I encountered countless issues that just needed a bit more technical know how and some proffesional equipment as I just couldnt get the bigger wheel bearing races in nice but in the end I got them all rebuilt. I also did the steering box change to a later model box (which was top entry instead of bottom entry for the draglink). This meant a new adjustable draglink which I was going to get anyway. I also did the front brake pads and found the driver side piston is seized. So all in all it was definately a learning curve and the car is finally back on the road but id mostly love to thank all the good info I got on here it made it all alot simpler
Quote:
Originally Posted by scubasteve
steve thats what this forum is about, help each other out where possible and especially guys like MR who have heaps of knowledge and isnt a bad bloke to go with it :)
Great thread mate ! About to do a forced rebuild ! so was nice to get a run through and use as a reference as I can't access manuals yet due to being a newbie !
Hey guys, I was starting the same job today of replacing all the seals and bearings for my axle and I hit a problem straight up.
As soon as I took the hub lock off (the one with the Allen keys to it) I had a few broken pieces fall out. Attachment 60173
The car is a 92 GQ TB42E. We have automatic hubs (the ones that say lock and auto). Now can anyone tell me where can I get another hub kit to repair or do I need a whole new one? The are just 2 rings broken as you can see by the picture. One of them (the flatter wider one) I'm sure I have a replacement for as I think it comes with the kit I have, and the other I have no idea what it is and if I can get away with putting it back together without it. What is your advice on this guys?
Get a set of manual hubs, much stronger and should be a direct swap
Yeah, the manual ones are a lot stronger for sure but it's not an option right now to buy new ones, so that's my dilemma. I've looked for parts and by the looks of things, you can only buy a whole thing not the pieces. I'm hoping I can put it back together to get me out of trouble for now. I'm not liking my chances though. It was driving just fine beforehand until I got to 100km on the highway then it started vibrating (not wobbling, just noise), but that could have just been because the axle seal was leaking and the whole thing was flooded with oil.
And by the way.... How do you separate the king pin bearings so I can put the new ones in?
Used a bearing puller under bearing, sat the puller on the open vice and tapped out with hammerQuote:
Originally Posted by OMFGITZDAV
Attachment 60181
Alternatively if you don't have the separator Liftlid just posted (handy bit of kit but it needs to be a small one) you can use a pair of pointy nose pliers Nd remove the seal from under the bearing, this will give you some room to move under the bearing.
- Set the king pin base in the vice with the bearing facing up.
- Insert the pointy nose pliers horizontally under the bearing on each side.
- Using a large flat head screw driver insert under the bearing from the other side.
- You now have 3 points of contact.
- The taper of the pointy nose pliers helps.
- Leaver and wiggle.
- It will pop off fairly easily using this method. A second pair of hands at this point would be helpful but not essential.
Push / press the new bearing on using the vice.
Thanx for creating this thread mate.
Is any one able to clarify which way round the metal scraper ring goes on?
I tried assembling the way it looks MR did it and it wasn't going together well at all so i swapped it round the other way and everything went in beautifully.
Basically, the scraper ring is shaped a bit like a Z... I have fitted mine so that one end of the Z sits inside swivel housing and the other end of the Z sits outside the scraper seal... further to the desription... the way that I have fitted the scraper ring matches the profile of the step inside the swivel housing.
Also, what do you mean MR when you say "bed the scraper seals in"?
Hi mate I had to go and re read what I wrote to get the context. When I wrote Bed I am talking about the rubber seals and the steal scraper, they will seat or bed into each other and really only go 1 way. There is no mistake, when they seat in you will know, sounds like you got it. I had another look at the pic and things are in the right way, maybe the pic lack a little clarity though, I can just make out the shape of the scraper. Just.Quote:
Originally Posted by bexi
I just took some pics... It goes this way right??
Attachment 63800
And NOT this way
Attachment 63801
Sorry mate it's difficult to tell without having it in front of me. Match the steal ring to the rubber seals as a 3some. That will clarify how it sits into the hub. Then the retaining plates will sit flat over them. Mock fit them and the plates onto the back and it should be pretty clear.
ok thanks for your help.
I did do a mock fit and it all sits beautifully if steel ring is fitted as in first pic.... I just wasn't sure if it needed to be fitted the other way and then all squashed in tight when doing up the bolts.
One last question... do you know what this washer is for?
(Gu hubs by the way)
Attachment 63802
That is a snip from the opening post in this thread. The washer you are holding is pictured in the middle of that diagram and is called a Lock Washer and sits under the top nut holding the wheel bearings on. If you have GU setup and are using the round nuts with the holes then this is redundant.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
If you click on the second small pic there is is much clearer and it will blow up.
Note also that the exploded diagram is there for the scraper seals too mate.
yes i read the whole thread before posting and now that you say that, I can see what you mean..... I just found it difficult to read the diagram and the pictures were not clear for my dodgy eyes.
Thank you so much for your help
Hey. I am wanting to do this rebuild in the next few months. What are good brands of kits to get and where to get them.
Been looking on ebay, are the drivetech 4x4 ones any good. They use the toyo bearings.
Great thread thanks for all the pics & build tips.
This thread will give many confidence to tackle this job.
Its not a hard job just time consuming agree some tools and patience is needed.
Not being picky,(did I miss something) the swivel preload check is done before the rear wiper seals are fitted correct ?.
Again, great pics n thread.
Now I've read whole thread I see you go by feel,ok.
When I did it the first time I did the same used original shims nice n smooth, but thought what the heck, check it any way.
It was out and needed adjusting, so long ago cant remember how much but it was to loose.
I think you've done a fantastic job, just putting it out there.
I always read your input and consider your advice invaluable.
Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by oddkid82
Cheers Robo, yeah to be honest i just do the tension for the king pin bearing by feel. Not ideal, most comments you read online say refit the existing spacers back where they came from, I can clearly see the floors in this argument but do it anyway. As an exercise i should certainly set up the spring rate checker as described in the Manual and see where it all sits for sure. Have you by chance got any pics of when you did your check? keen to see how you did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Cheers MR
I gave terrain tamer a call for a price, a bit more expensive than the ones I was looking at. Hmmm decisions decisions.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Ps love the thread. Its going to help a lot ��
Cheers MR, na mate I haven't any pics .Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Did the passengers side last night.
This time the original factory fitted (I assume) shims of 2x .0127mm, was tighter than spec by about 1 kg.
little weird that a .254 wasn't fitted instead, but guess removing again was a waste of time in motion for the fitter.
I use an adjustable pull scale in kg, they can be zeroed also a very useful feature which help accuracy.
I have an laboratory bench scale at work which I tested mine against for accuracy, came up trumps.
I did it it 3 steps.
1st -- 1ea top n bottom oem fitted .0127 shim, measured 3.5 kg resistance.
2nd-- + .127 top n bottom again and this reduced it to 2.5 kg.
3rd-- 1ea x new .254mm + new .075mm came in about 1.85 kg.
I settled on that.
3.5kg felt by hand to tight to me.
1.85kg bit over spec, but I'm happy with, so left at that.
Reason I didn't try for lower towards factory spec, it also felt smooth to pull by hand from a stand still, not a "jerk" to get it to move,
where 2.5kg & above felt to stiff at start of movement.
cheers Robo
Tip -- if ya don't want to change the diff oil.
jack 1 side at a time & air down the opposite side if needed, worked for me.
Took some pics while doing the drivers side.
Not many I'm flat out trying to get ready for easter hols.
Pre tested the drivers side to see where it actually was before repair.
Removed the spindle & CV but left the wiper seals on and it gave a reading of 200 grams, so it's completely worn out yeah!.
Recon the reading was only the actual weight of hub N seals @ 200g
Coming apart Attachment 65635.
Pressing swivels off Attachment 65636.
Ready to grease Attachment 65637.
Greased Attachment 65638.
Pull resistance test Attachment 65639.
Attachment 65640
The pull test was using the original shims of .5mm & this gave 950 grams resistance.
This setting of 950g felt way to light to me by hand, yes it's within specs of .5 to 1.5kg ,
Reduced shims and settled on 1.55 kg.
sum up 1 side was completely out using old shims and the other was within spec.
Maybe it's just a case by case basis.
What a great write up. Just finished this job. Without the detailed pics and explanation I don't think I would have even attempted this job.
That's awesome mate, glad it gave you confidence. Cheers for the feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by daggy
I need some help with this bugger Daz, any ideas? Lol
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...016/07/205.jpg
….................... On the move
Your in it....Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisshead
There's ya problem..
Quote:
Originally Posted by nisshead
epic!!!!!!!!!!