Not fitted :( I'm guessing it was an option on the st30 range?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
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Not fitted :( I'm guessing it was an option on the st30 range?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Yes it is a factory option.
Anyone fitted one up after the fact? Wonder how hard it would be to add on.
I have just replaced the battery and alternator with an after-market unit. I have had to shorten the spacer ( a few mm) which fits the bottom bracket of the alternator.
I also cut a slot along the spacer so it is a lot easier to fit and to take the alternator off. Time will tell if mud and muck will cause problems.
The modified spacer is pictured below.
I also had to source a small bolt ( from a motor cycle shop of all places) to fit the earth terminal.
After I had fitted the battery and alternator, I checked for leakage current.
With the negative terminal of the battery removed and the key turned to the off position, I placed a multimeter (set to 10 amps) in series with the circuit.
The initial leakage was .16 amps which then dropped to .043 amps. I pulled out the clock fuse and the audio fuse which caused the leakage current to drop to virtually zero. Which is excellent.
Just a heads up: The RB30 timing belt cover has small holes near the top and there is no seal behind the harmonic balancer. When I changed out the timing belt, I found evidence that mud and water had been picked up by the timing belt.
Apart from the charging and the starting circuit, the RB30 wiring diagrams I have seen usually have some differences, as the published manuals mainly deal with the TB42 and TD42.
START CIRCUIT OPERATION.
Once the key is moved to the start position current is supplied via the Black/yellow wire to the coils in the starter solenoid.
These coils produce a magnetic field and pull a metal rod (represented by the dotted line) which closes the main contacts.
This allows current to flow through the starter motor field coils and armature via carbon brushes.
A magnetic field is produced by the field coils and it reacts with the magnetic field also being produced in the armature.
This causes the armature to spin on its shaft.
As the armature speeds up it causes the pinion gear to spin, and move rapidly forward to engage the ring gear on the engine's fly wheel.
The engine turns until it fires and begins to run.
Once the key is released, power is cut to the solenoid and allows the metal rod to open the main contacts.
Power is cut to the starter motor which slows down so the pinion disengages from the ring gear.
The pinion moves back to its static position as the armature slows to a stop.
There is an inhibitor switch attached to automatic transmissions so the engine will not crank unless Neutral or Park is selected.
Hello All , I have an RB30 Patrol. I keeps backfiring when under load, any ideas? Kwaka9
pop over to the intros and tell us a bit about yourself polite and all.
do you have a std dizzy and rotor button.?
Backfiring
Backfiring on a non-modified Rb30 can be caused by the following factors:
A faulty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.
Incorrect Timing.
Thermostatic air cleaner system.
Vacuum leak.
Split, holed or faulty vacuum advance diaphragm.
Damaged valve spring or sticking valve.
Intake air leak.
Carby float level incorrect.
Cracked distributor cap.
Faulty distributor rotor.
Tracking between contacts in the distributor cap.
Faulty high tension leads.
Faulty spark plugs.
Leaking exhaust manifold gasket or manifold to engine pipe gasket.
Dirt caught in the needle and seat.
This is the instrument panel circuit for an RB30S.
Don't think it's been removed. There is nothing at all for the AC there. No buttons. No wires. No pipes. No condenser.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
It would be a "heavy" job even with all the gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
Professional job will be pretty expensive definitely.
I reckon it's ok if you salvage all the A/C gear from a wrecking GQ and slowly add the bits in your spare time.
Once finished you can get it checked for leaks and have it regassed by a professional.
Just need to make sure the compressor is a good one.
In my one, I re-gassed it myself.
But, not too sure how to go about finding the leaks.
It's not a dying need for me atm with freezing winter. :D
Last summer I was going to do it, then got slack 'cos Melbourne summer was like the spring last time.
If you are planning to do it as a project, let me know.
I can send photos of all the bits and pieces as well as well as the tools you might need.
Thanks Dom - I made it through last summer without it, it wasn't the hottest summer, and I'm not a big believer in being in the middle of a dry forest on a hot day!Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Have a few other plans for the moment, and as it's not my daily I've lost the urge to do it somewhat!! Slack, I know!! :P
Bloody awesome thread mudnut! has been infinitely helpful :)
The GQ heater core has a
small catchment area below it.
If you have accidentally dropped
an object down the windscreen
demisting duct it and it has gone
down the main heater duct
is simple to get to.
Take the centre dash panel off,
the radio out and undo the screw
in the heater module. The whole
bottom plate / feet warming duct
then unclips and reveals the heater
duct. A small inspection camera
which comes with a magnet and a hook
is needed as the catchment is
up, behind a blind corner and
down again.
I taped a soft rubber 3/8 hose
to the camera and joined the
other end to a vacuum cleaner.
With the aid of the camera it
was easy to suck the dust
and sand out.
I added a large diameter hose
as a nozzle to grab the non-magnetic
objects.
Good luck.
This is a sketch of RB30 Patrol vacuum lines as it is in my RB30 Patrol
I will add the photos of each part as I go.
I would be grateful if the RB30 aficionados out there can have a look at this diagram and see if their RB30 vacuum lines are any different.
I referred to the vacuum lines diagrams in the Patrol factory manual, but couldn't find a one for RB30. It seems to cover TB42, TD42, but not RB30.
This diagram partially represents the real physical layout of the vacuum lines.
For example, carby throttle body and thermal vacuum switch vacuum lines are depicted as it's viewed from the driver side of the open bonnet.
Throttle body has two vacuum lines go into it, left and right. The diagram shows the same orientation.
TVV(Thermal vacuum valve) has two vacuum lines go into it. Top and bottom. The diagram shows the same orientation.
The three T-joints of the vacuum lines that are showing in the diagram represents the actual location of the T-joints as well.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...chmentid=59376
Craig is that better???
A lot of work has gone into that thanks Dom.
don't know if they've already been posted, but I have RB30 ECCS information from the factory R31 skyline service manual if it's not on here already (as well as engine information like torque figures etc.)
Yep, but nowhere near the work you've done on this thread. Few more photos and then I'm done. :D
Of course, I'll be moving into other areas of the Patrol.
I'll have to go through my old threads and see if I can bring anything here from there as well.
I'll be doing lot of work on my RB30 for next few weeks. I'm hoping to add as much as I can.
Just like my IT work, it takes more time to document than it takes to do the actual work. :thumbup:
Time for a beer.
:cheers:
Go for it Pat. There are a lot ofQuote:
Originally Posted by pat in a troll
modified RB30s out there.
If we find the thread gets
too big, we can always edit
it and add links to sub threads.
ok i'll get busy getting images for the pages.
Hi blokes,
Following on from the info above I might seem like a but of a dinosaur here, but I have a couple of quick questions about my RB30 patrol, hopefully someone can help.
I thought of going EFI, turbo etc, and still might, or do an engine transplant later when funds permit.
In the meantime, I discovered my patrol still has the honeycomb heater insert, so that's coming out, and my carb looks dirty as heck, so I'll service that too. When removing the honeycomb element, did others also remove the can in the other carb throat? I've read it is for fuel distribution and should be left in place?
I'm also going to see about a better exhaust as while I have extractors, the exhaust is very quiet and is probably a factory unit (or equivalent replacement), so might be a little restrictive.
Who knows, I might even be happy with it after the changes, since it only feels like it needs a little more power. I do like the simple set up.
Another question, I have a small round device above my brake booster on the firewall, with two wires, and a vacuum hose coming out of it, (first photo), what is this for and should the vacuum line be connected to the front of a round device on the front left of the carb? (Second photo).
Thanks all.
Definitely leave the deflector
in the throat of the manifold.
If you do take the heater grid
out, it is best to have the stove
pipe assembly operating correctly
otherwise the engine will struggle
when cold.
The device you described is
the FICD which operates
the fast idle actuator when
the aircon is working. It
is dealt with
earlier in the thread.
Hi Mudnut, I should have looked harder at this thread first, it's all there, thanks very much mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I see you replaced your alternator, did you fit another 60 amp one, or go for an upgrade? I've seen 80 amp ones available to fit, but I wonder about the original wiring handling extra current.
Here in WA it doesn't get that cold that often, but if it struggles in the cold I'll reinstate the stove pipe as you suggest. I'll have to weld a pipe fitting onto the extractors, since they don't have one.
If you haven't
got the original heat
collector plate, it would be
easy to make one.
It would also be fairly easy
to attach it with stainless
steel hose clamps.
I believe the alternator
I acquired locally is
the same as what
Patrolapart have on offer.
Ok, I've had a look at the patrolapart alternator, think I might have to get one, so can I assume you've had no wiring issues, fuses blowing etc? And did you notice any power drop from the engine driving a more powerful alternator?
None at all, because
I have not added any
accessories, so the
power required to
drive the alternator
is the same.
If upgrading to a higher output alternator, I would definitely be running a higher capacity wire from the alternator to the battery.
Point taken about the accessories, I guess it's because I may add a couple of extra things and therefore may require more from the alternator that I was asking, more of a future proofing line of thought.
X2. Will be doing that in the near future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
So I thought I'd post this in case any other RB30 owners were interested, I removed the heater element / grid thing from the carby spacer (finally, wish I'd done it sooner, easy as), and am so happy with it I thought I'd pass on the results. I did some k's today, and what a difference!
Lately I've been running somewhere around 18.5 litres per hundred, just filled up and only used 13.6 litres per hundred. Something like a 25% improvement in fuel economy and the difference in power and driveability is crazy. I was able to overtake up a hill, it sits comfortably or even in front of the pace of other cars off the lights (not hooning, too old for that, but before it struggled to keep up with the traffic from rest and now it doesn't feel laboured). I don't have to use as much throttle on the highway, it feels like a new car to drive, now when it revs it feels like there's a point to the revs, unlike before...
Awesome , I love my truck 😀
Dug up this old article from 1990 - a 'first drive' when the RB30 Patrol came out in Australia. Good to see what they though about it then, a useful and interesting read.
In that very same issue of the magazine they reviewed the 'brand new' 80 series as being "Toyota compromise of the "Cruiser's rugged he-man conservatism of shape and engineering", and that the 80 looks "almost pretty, with its pooftah curves and soft edges everywhere" !!! Oh how the times haven't changed...
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RB30 Patrol auto choke repair method
Hey guys,
This is how I managed to repair the thermostatic auto choke of the RB30 Patrol Nikki carby.
It's a fairly easy and quick fix, but can be improved.
I did it in a hurry, but pretty sure this works well.
Basically, this was a bad design. Simply the factory way of attaching the heater element disk
onto the bi-metal spring assembly is not that good. It's a some kinda metallic conductive glue or a brazing method, but comes off over time due to heat and vibration. Once it falls off from it's location, it simply rattles inside and doesn't do anything. So, if you hear the plastic auto choke unit has a rattle when you remove and give it a shake, it's 100% sure that it is not working. I suspect it is the case for many RB30 Patrols auto chokes out there, and they are running rich and the fuel economy is suffering as a result of that. So, I reckon this post is useful to many RB30 Patrol Nikki carby model fans out there.
If anybody has any ideas of how to improve the way the heater element disk attaches to the bi-metal spring, do post some ideas, please.
Special thanks to Rodney(Yendor) for donating his valuable time with advice & tips during my effort to understand the mechanics+electrics behind the auto choke system in RB30 Patrol. Without his help, I would still be scratching my head.
Another method of gluing the heater disk to the bimetal spring assembly is using a paste similar to the factory silver paste as in the picture and as in the link below.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-2ML-Sil...703&rmvSB=true
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wire-Glue.../141788653328?
Then, if it's strengthened with epoxy glue, it may hold it. It's better to use longer curing time epoxy(like 24-48 hours) and not put it together and use it until the epoxy completely bond to the bi-metal spring.
This is oil pressure sender unit test specifications from factory manual. This is for TB and TD engines, but I reckon its' the same for RB30 as well.
If not correct me.
Thanx
Oil Pressure Sender Repair - RB30 Patrol
Hey Guys,
This is what I did to repair the Oil Pressure Sender of my RB30 Patrol.
BTW, I have to say, all these were required simply because I went to the trouble of opening up the sealed oil pressure sender to see what the problem inside.
When I opened it up, the interior was working fine.
It's basically the piston that pushes on the variable resistor coil, which has been getting stuck due to oil gunk that's been stuck inside the piston bore as well as the walls.
So, the best and easiest way to get this oil pressure sender to work again is to,
1)Spray carby cleaner or something similar from the oil entry hole and shake and shake off all the oil inside. Few high pressure sprays and few strong shakes will be required.
2) Attach a vacuum cleaner to the oil entry hole and suck all the gunk that's been stuck inside the bore over years.
Above two deeds alone will give new life back to your Oil Pressure Sender. The key is to remove all the oil grime inside the bore and walls. Once that's done, your old oil pressure sender will spring back to life. No more funny oil pressure readings on the dial on the dashboard.
All the trouble I went through wont' be necessary at all. I had to tear it down in order to understand the interior as well to investigate any possible electrical or mechanical issues inside.
New Oil Pressure Sender is sold for silly $130 or more. Even though it's a critical part of the engine oil warning system, fixing it like this when you can, makes sense to me.
And not to mention, it's damn fun exercise.
Cheers
P.S. Special thanks to Yendor(Rodney) for feeding me plenty of knowledge to understand the workings of this thing.
How to burp a radiator
Hey guys,
This is the setup I use to 'burp' a radiator.
All the thanks go to Mudnut(Craig).
I use the same setup to test for combustion gas leakage as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK8S...ature=youtu.be
Hi Dom,
RE: Oil Pressure Sender Repair
How did you go about removing the sender from the block? I know its in a rubbish spot (next to the oil filter, right?)... Hands, monkey grips, filter wrench, stilson... !?
Cheers,
Chris
Hi mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainNewman
Use a 17mm spanner. It's a tight fit, so I had to heat up the middle of spanner and bend it.
I used a LPG burner torch. You can also use an outdoor bbq burner. Attach the spanner to bench vice etc and then hit one end.
If you try to bend it without heating it is like to cause it to break.
Or if you have an arc welder, you can cut/break the spanner from the middle and weld it back in a bent shape.
Also grind the spanner fork ends to make it thinner, so it will go behind the sender unit easily.
So, basically you are making a tool.:)
You might be able to get in there with a short 17mm spanner if you have a one, without having to do all the above.
Give it a try. I used an el cheapo 17mm spanner to do the above, which I bought as a kit.
I finally checked the economy since I had the headers fitted, the head plained, the carby heater grid removed, and disabled the Pre-Heat Flap diaphragm (warmer months only).
I got 13.4 lt/100km highway driving and 15.11 for light duty four wheeling. As a bonus for the extra ponies gained, it should only take 23500 km of highway driving to recoup the cost of the headers.