Getting MORE from your photos !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lhurley

Thanks steve, i was playing around in manual mode (camera and lens), i try to stay out of auto unless im doing a super quick shot.

You are correct, at no zoom, the lens does cast a shadow, only very slightly if the ground infront of the camera is further away.

Only way im going to learn is by playing, so i think we need a photography trip.

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Get an off camera flash mate. Some are wireless,some need a lead from the cameras hot shoe to the flash itself.The onboard pop up flash is usually crap at most things.

I only know the Nikon system which has an inbuilt wireless system, but wireless flash triggers are cheap enough.

The use of flash in photography can get very complicated and expensive, but to get you started it should not cost too much:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YONGNUO-Y...item232754255c

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yongnuo-R...item256d2bd1e1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lhurley

Only way im going to learn is by playing, so i think we need a photography trip.

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Yes , im sure something can be arranged with regard to a trip, its long over due. :biggrin:

I have a Canon 1200D EOS. It does not have the bulb feature. Do you know if there is any way I can get my longer exposure shots ? Is there something after market ? I want to have a play with star trailing. ( I think that is what it is called)

Try something like this.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RS-60E3-T...item3a8e90092c

Quote:

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Originally Posted by katwoman

I have a Canon 1200D EOS. It does not have the bulb feature. Do you know if there is any way I can get my longer exposure shots ? Is there something after market ? I want to have a play with star trailing. ( I think that is what it is called)

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Pretty sure a 1200 should have bulb mode Kat ?, you will need to have the camera on "manual" mode to gain access to the bulb feature tho, and as above a remote trigger is the most preferable way to do long exposure shots.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 04OFF

Pretty sure a 1200 should have bulb mode Kat ?, you will need to have the camera on "manual" mode to gain access to the bulb feature tho, and as above a remote trigger is the most preferable way to do long exposure shots.

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Thx. Time to read the manual, I think. Got 3 weeks of doing nothing now, so I'll have a better look

Yeh , just quickly try this.........flick the shooting mode control knob to "M" , then keep adjusting/extending the exposure time value till you get to 30 sec, then the next one should activate "bulb" ?

I don`t know diddly about Canon, but sometimes one has to RTFM,even us blokes do it now and again......:biggrin:

Just bouncing this thread with a question.

I'm slightly confused on the variety of uses of a dedicated f2.8 lens. The one in particular that I am looking at is the beaut little Olympus 12-40mm PRO lens (http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=1641) for use with the Olympus OM-D E-M5 II MICRO 4/3rds camera. I know a the basics of using an SLR, and for years used a Nikon F90X before the world went digital, but I've never used a constant aperture lens before.

I want to use the lens for most situations really, but particularly for landscapes and people shots. I know it is a nice sharp lens and should give decent results with bokeh and low light situations but can these lenses be used when I want a large depth of field too?

Any thoughts?

We just bought an SLR. I think I'll be using this thread a bit

Coming late to this thread.

I studied photojournalism at Uni. Why? Because my wife bought me a Cannon 550D and I had no idea how to use it. On top of that, my late father left me all his camera gear (also Cannon) and again, I had no idea what it was. To me an F Stop was something from a TV series.... no... wait... that was F Troop, and DOF was something you did with your hat.

The first thing I learnt was to never again use my "auto" setting. You want to be able to control your camera and your shots and not have them controlled for you by some guy in a Chinese factory. The second thing I learnt was to make sure my camera was set up to take "RAW" shots and not JPG. This is for a few reasons:

1. Camera RAW allows you more freedom to correct and adjust your shot post production
2. Camera RAW allows you to imbed info in the final result such as copyright, your details etc.
3. Camera RAW embeds details of the gear you were using including what lens and how it was set up.

So class one, day one was switch to Camera RAW and switch to Manual - even before starting to learn what F stops, Depth of Field ISO settings or any of that other confusing jazz was.

If you are really keen on taking great shots that you control, then I recommend you do the same - switch to manual and change settings to shoot RAW not JPG - you might as well; if you have gone to all the trouble of spending your hard earned on a great camera, make it work for you.

Just a note - I took photojournalism, which is all about telling a story with a camera. Scene / portrait shooting is a very different kettle of fish, but I can confidently say I learnt much (including that taking photojournalism was perhaps not quite what I wanted to achieve!).

Anyway, I am still learning every time I take my camera out so am by no means a pro - or even a semi-pro. More like a sometimes confused ameture who takes the occasional good shot. If I can help in this thread in anyway, that would be great.

Pete

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FNQGU

Just bouncing this thread with a question.

I'm slightly confused on the variety of uses of a dedicated f2.8 lens. The one in particular that I am looking at is the beaut little Olympus 12-40mm PRO lens (http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=1641) for use with the Olympus OM-D E-M5 II MICRO 4/3rds camera. I know a the basics of using an SLR, and for years used a Nikon F90X before the world went digital, but I've never used a constant aperture lens before.

I want to use the lens for most situations really, but particularly for landscapes and people shots. I know it is a nice sharp lens and should give decent results with bokeh and low light situations but can these lenses be used when I want a large depth of field too?

Any thoughts?

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When you say large DOF, I take it you mean long DOF? (ie everything in focus and no blurred background?). F2.8 tends to give you a shallow DOF so it might not suite what you are looking for. Also, it's a good lowlight F stop so it it's great for indoor use / low light outside but I wouldn't use it for big bright shots (for example a drive along a beach in the middle of summer) - well, not without adjusting the shutter speed and ISO to compensate (faster shutter and lower ISO).

I guess it comes down to what you want to use it for.

Believe it or not, one of my favorite lenses is a little EF 50mm F/1.8 Canon lens I picked up for about $100 or so. Does everything you outlined above and has never let me down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LaughingBeagles

:

1. Camera RAW allows you more freedom to correct and adjust your shot post production
2. Camera RAW allows you to imbed info in the final result such as copyright, your details etc.
3. Camera RAW embeds details of the gear you were using including what lens and how it was set up.



Pete

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1.Getting it right initially sorts that problem.
2.So does jpeg
3.So does jpeg.

Your course tutor should have said that both jpeg and RAW have their uses. Yes,RAW does hold more data and does enable you to alter your final shot more,especially in shadow areas. Do I use RAW? Yes, when doing weddings and landscape. I use jpeg for pretty much everything else. Why? Because I loathe post processing shots, pissing about in photoshop and the like.

Ask sports photographers who wire shots to newspapers on the fly what they shoot, it won`t be RAW.

Ask any wedding photographer what they use, it will be RAW.

Both have their uses, saying that you must only shoot RAW is wrong and daft to be honest.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FNQGU

Just bouncing this thread with a question.

I'm slightly confused on the variety of uses of a dedicated f2.8 lens. The one in particular that I am looking at is the beaut little Olympus 12-40mm PRO lens (http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=1641) for use with the Olympus OM-D E-M5 II MICRO 4/3rds camera. I know a the basics of using an SLR, and for years used a Nikon F90X before the world went digital, but I've never used a constant aperture lens before.

I want to use the lens for most situations really, but particularly for landscapes and people shots. I know it is a nice sharp lens and should give decent results with bokeh and low light situations but can these lenses be used when I want a large depth of field too?

Any thoughts?

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The lens is a constant F2.8 at the largest aperture, you can simply adjust the aperture down to F8 or 9 for your landscape shots. It is not fixed at F2.8 mate.

Sorry for the late reply to your pm, been busy at work type boring stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fracster

1.Getting it right initially sorts that problem.
2.So does jpeg
3.So does jpeg.

Your course tutor should have said that both jpeg and RAW have their uses. Yes,RAW does hold more data and does enable you to alter your final shot more,especially in shadow areas. Do I use RAW? Yes, when doing weddings and landscape. I use jpeg for pretty much everything else. Why? Because I loathe post processing shots, pissing about in photoshop and the like.

Ask sports photographers who wire shots to newspapers on the fly what they shoot, it won`t be RAW.

Ask any wedding photographer what they use, it will be RAW.

Both have their uses, saying that you must only shoot RAW is wrong and daft to be honest.

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Thanks for your "robust" response. Makes me just want to get involved all the more.... (not). Anyway, I think I'll leave this thread alone - you've got it all covered. ;)

Thanks guys - your advice on all things photographic is appreciated by all. Please keep it coming.

I worked out the lens today, and it is a little ripper. Can't wait to play around with it some more.

@ FNQGU, that looks like a great lens to me for landscape, as for you unanswered question, I honestly think you will find a better answer reading the comments posted in the link you provided, as these are people that own and use the lens, in reality, its impossible to judge any lens purely on its specs, so unless someone has actually used it in practice, I doubt they will really have much to offer in the way of accurate advice on what the lens is (or isn't) "really" capable of.



@ LaughingBeagles, I have to agree with Fractster on the Raw v jpeg thing, when I first started out, I shot 100% raw, mostly because I thought ,if I do manage to accidentally take best shot in the world, I want it to be the best quality my camera can produce.

Whilst I 99% of the time do shoot on Manual mode, I now "only" ever shoot jpeg , although Ive never shot a Wedding, I can see clearly why raw would be worth while for such a important paid job, but in the reality of my every day shootings, pretty much agree with everything Fractser said above about raw v jpeg, and I personally feel, I want to hone my skills creating great shots with the "Camera", NOT my PC. ;)


I should add, this is my unprofessional "opinion" only, and as with any form of "art", you do what you feel happy and comfortable with, and do what you need to do to create something you like, I don't think there are any hard and fast rules, just what suits your style, that's what makes Photography great, the same camera can do different things for different people. :p

LaughingBeagles, please do NOT leave this thread alone, yours and everyone else's opinion is greatly appreciated here, it great you take/took the time to reply, and I thank you for that, people will all always have a difference in opinion, and other people can learn much from "different" views, please do not take Fractsers passionate response (or anyone elses, including mine) as anyway aggressive, im sure Fractser would be dis-heartened to find you may feel that way about his post, I can assure you (without conversing with Fracster) it would not be his intention to put anyone down in any way, sometimes the intermernet thing can be misleading like this.

Thanks 04OFF, appreciate your post very much. I absolutely have no issue with people disagreeing with what I post, I guess it's just how it is said that makes a difference - especially in a forum, where the non-verbals are missing.

The reason I shoot RAW is because as I get more experienced, I can revisit some of my early compositions with a fresh set of eyes. There have been plenty of shots I thought were great at the time only to look at them a few years later and think "if only".

I have to stress that there were two main reasons we shot RAW in my course - 1. So the lecture can check to see what you have done post production (you could not tweak them to begin with so had to learn to take not only a good shot but one that told a story) and 2. So you learnt more about the metadata that composed a shot. As the course progressed, you were able to do minor tweaks but again, you had to submit the RAW data so you could be assessed on your original composition (hard to do with JPG).

As it was photojournalism, we had to be able to learn things like - without a tripod; take panoramic shots and stitch together manually, shoot in low light, and so on. Our lecture Julie Millowick (worth a google - a well regarded photographer) was great. I did not finish the course as we moved back to WA so had to defer. It did provide me with enough to realise that I had much to learn, that my camera was ok but not great in low light (very noisy) and so on.

Anyway, onwards and upwards.

Yes look, we all have different styles, and all shoot different, I really look forward to learning some stuff from your input, so I hope you continue to post here, I am sure Fracster will be along soon to clear the air, but as I said, I very much doubt there was anything sinister meant buy his post, he is a talented Photographer who knows his stuff, but ive never read "anything" where he has deliberately degraded anyone, but as us poms can be , we certainly know how to voice a opinion (lol) unfortunately, sometimes the internet can make people appear to come across in a bad way.

I have a good friend who also shoots 100% raw , he is a computer geek , so im not surprised he likes to play with pics in the PC, he is not a bad Photographer, but still learning (I thing we all never really stop learning anyway) but some of the crap pics he "revives" with the computer are simply amazing, but he still has heaps to learn about basic composition, especially with regard to cropping, although I can say, if I ever did do a wedding, I want to share a shoot with him, because he has the PC skills to make every shot better, and our styles and skills being different, I think would make for some interesting stuff.

Either that or we would drastically fail, and never work again (lol)


So I guess what I am attempting to say is, that a persons choice to shoot raw, may also be influenced by the skills and willingness to modify images in the PC, personally I don't like to use much PC, but to be honest, that's more likely because I don't have any PC skills, and are too stubborn (lazy) to learn, I enjoy creating real time effects in the camera, and I guess I feel once you start explaining to people you used a PC, people start to think maybe you just created the whole thing in photoshop, not that that's wrong, but at some point you must cross a line between what is classed as Photography, and Computer Generated Images ?


Anyway, hope you can stick around in here :smiley_thumbs_up:

My background is digital forensics (Uber Geek) so I can relate. Funny how there is a strong sense that RAW = lots of fiddling, which is not the case for me. I was taught composition, the right f stop, apeture, ISO, the rule of thirds, post ion the "story" of the shot and so on. I also strongly believe there is an art to it as well, the gut feel in seeing through the lens.

All these things I do as a beginner but it's fun.

Sorry bud, I did not intend to come across as robust. Just stating what my thoughts were,I certainly did not intend to offend or pee you off in anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LaughingBeagles

Thanks for your "robust" response. Makes me just want to get involved all the more.... (not). Anyway, I think I'll leave this thread alone - you've got it all covered. ;)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 04OFF

LaughingBeagles, please do NOT leave this thread alone, yours and everyone else's opinion is greatly appreciated here, it great you take/took the time to reply, and I thank you for that, people will all always have a difference in opinion, and other people can learn much from "different" views, please do not take Fractsers passionate response (or anyone elses, including mine) as anyway aggressive, im sure Fractser would be dis-heartened to find you may feel that way about his post, I can assure you (without conversing with Fracster) it would not be his intention to put anyone down in any way, sometimes the intermernet thing can be misleading like this.

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Absolutely spot on mate. Sometimes words typed on a forum can come across in a different way than intended. My post was trying to help, though I do admit that some of my posts may come across as blunt and robust, that is not my intent at all guys.

I have been following this thread for while now, and also some of the individuals posting on it. Let me start by saying I find both fracster's and 04off's photography extremity interesting and exciting. I have also recently met Pete and I like what I have seen of his work. The interesting thing is that each person has there own technique and some differences in their approach to photography and whether to use RAW or JPG format.
My own experience started way back in the 70's, when I bought a Pentax, a lot of photography books and undertook a few courses at TAFE. This made me a reasonable photographer and at the time I knew all the rules like the rule of thirds, f stops and all the others that Pete mentioned in his post. Unfortunately, although I was a reasonable photographer it bored me to death in the end and that coupled with a growing family and limited budget had me sell all my equipment and not become interested in photography again until 2011. I am now learning all over again, but with a much more mature attitude. I now find myself composing much better photographs mainly because I am putting my own "feel" in to the subject matter and knowing when to ignore the "rules" of photography. So as not to take over the thread and bore everyone to death, I'll leave this post now on this note. I agree with just about everything that has been posted but I do find that shooting in RAW uses a lot of memory and is not warranted unless you are going to manipulate the photograph afterwards. Because the modern camera is capable in auto mode, and almost any photograph can be enhanced on a computer, we as photographers, need to show our individuality by creating our own individual style and composition techniques.
Lastly, when 4x4ing, I have a second camera with a 300mm telephoto set to auto and multiple shots just sitting withing reach. This has often enabled me to get photographs of those situations that "come out of nowhere."

Here's a challenge for you - ME !! [emoji13]
I bought a Nikon D7100 about 2 months ago and last weekend thought I'd be clever and take it to the Supercross so that I could get some good pictures .... Hmmmm that backfired !!

Until the sun went down all was good with the silly thing set on AUTO however once that sin went down, and the spot lights came on the track I think I managed to take 1, maybe 2 semi ok pictures

The rest were crappy and blurred - was sitting there googling what settings I should be using and even ended up with a groovy pic that looked like my camera was on LSD [emoji849]

HELP !!! No nothing about photography but want to be able to take pics of Motorsports during the day and night .....


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/10/393.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/10/394.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/10/395.jpg


ETA : when I bought it came with 2 Nikon lenses

18-140mm which is on the camera and a 50mm


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A general tip would be to throw it into Shutter Priority and up the speed to at least 1/500th of a second, (maybe even 1/800th or faster) to capture fast moving objects.

You should have a focus lock option on that D7100 too. Work out how that works and it will follow your subjects keeping them in focus.

Also, I'd suggest you put it into burst mode to take multiple frames each time. You'll end up with a stack of images you don't want/need, but in amongst them there will hopefully be one or two that are exactly what you wanted.

With the light dropping right off at night, you might find a need to up your ISO to 800 or 1600 too. Your camera is probably doing it already automatically, but if your shots are still too dark, you might need to take control of it.

One of the searches (plus reading the manual) suggested these settings which was how I got the slightly OK pics - methinks I'll have to look into doing a basic photography course just to learn the basics of how to use the darn thing LOLhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/10/397.jpg


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If you use the Aperture Priority then you are leaving it to the camera to select the shutter speed, and it will base that on the amount of light it is getting from whatever Aperture setting you use. You won't get a crisp 'frozen' image from moving objects as often. Most times it will come out blurred. The H subsetting there is likely for High Speed (ie. burst mode) I think. Someone who uses Nikon can tell you better than I could.

Another option for you would be to select Scene, and choose 'Sports' or something similar.

Jump on YouTube and watch a couple of tutorials if you don't have time for a course.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FNQGU

If you use the Aperture Priority then you are leaving it to the camera to select the shutter speed, and it will base that on the amount of light it is getting from whatever Aperture setting you use. You won't get a crisp 'frozen' image from moving objects as often. Most times it will come out blurred. The H subsetting there is likely for High Speed (ie. burst mode) I think. Someone who uses Nikon can tell you better than I could.

Another option for you would be to select Scene, and choose 'Sports' or something similar.

Jump on YouTube and watch a couple of tutorials if you don't have time for a course.

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Cool - thanks - I did read in the manual about using scene & sports from there but couldn't find it the other night ...... Just looked now and found it so will give that a try :)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2TROLLFAM

One of the searches (plus reading the manual) suggested these settings which was how I got the slightly OK pics - methinks I'll have to look into doing a basic photography course just to learn the basics of how to use the darn thing LOL


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Be careful - I bought a camera, did a course and outgrew the camera so bought a better one, another course etc. A bit like doing mods on a Patrol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4bye4

Be careful - I bought a camera, did a course and outgrew the camera so bought a better one, another course etc. A bit like doing mods on a Patrol.

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Naaaaaa had a good camera years ago when my ex husband and I showed dogs - set it completely in auto and push button ... That's the extent of my excitement for photography LOL

Just with work get free tickets for the bikes races, motor cross etx and thought would be nice to be able to take decent photos for FB etc


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Hi Sharen, i think the suggestions from the others are a great place to start, basically you need think along the lines of that your camera is attempting to capture enough light to generate a clear and well lit image.



At night time, just as humans don't see as well as in the daytime, so does the camera suffer from lack of light, the pupils in our eyes widen to allow more light to enter, and our brain also fills in a lot of gaps to allow us to see at night, the camera also needs adjustments to help see in the dark.

As mentioned before by a previous poster, In basic terms you can make your camera more sensitive to light (increasing the ISO) the downside can be degrading of picture quality (noise or grain in the image) at high ISO, new cameras these days are very good at avoiding such noise so don't be afraid to try, anyway, the way i look at it is, a slightly noisy pic, is better than NO pic at all.


The other thing (also as mentioned) is to allow time for the camera sensor to absorb more light with a slower shutter speed, if you keep the shutter open for long enough you can make night look like day, this method however, is not practical for fast moving objects as it will introduce blur (as you have already seen)




Using a zoom lens on full zoom will often reduce the cameras ability to absorb any available light, try to use use a low f-stop or fast lens (need less light) that operates down to a small "f" number (normally the f-stop is written in the outside of the lens), use it on minimal zoom, sure your image may be further away, but you will have the best shot at getting something you can use, even if it means cropping the image in the PC later to make the subject appear closer.

You can also help your camera by positioning yourself so you are shooting with any available light (such as a track light) behind you, the light behind you will help light the subject, but if you shoot toward a light, the camera may see this light as the overall light available for the image, and if the light is quite bright, the camera will do what our eyes do when we look into a bright light (like when we squint), and so the camera will try and darken the whole image down, this will result in everything you wish to capture looking dull and dark.




The other way to get more light at night is of course by using a flash, unfortunately most standard camera flashes do not work over a very long distance, nor give very much control, a extra external flash is the best way, but will cost more money, and add bulk to your camera/bag, plus external flashes require extra batteries to operate, flash can also be a art in itself to master, and can also annoy the hell out of people having them "pop" off in their face all the time. :tongue:

Thanks Heaps !! greatly appreciate the laymen terms [emoji2]

So my guess would be definitely lighting was my major problem the other night as we were in the stands at the end of the back straight with at least 4 sets of spotties facing us and had the lens zoomed right in ... Yeah my ex husband had a seperate flash for his camera and used to annoy the crap out of me, let alone the people beside us at dog shows.

I don't want to be an expert, just to manage a decent pic would be great [emoji108]🏼

Speaking of pics - I need to go check out your threads and see how your rebuild finished up ......


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2TROLLFAM

Thanks Heaps !! greatly appreciate the laymen terms [emoji2]


I don't want to be an expert, just to manage a decent pic would be great [emoji108]🏼

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When shooting that sort of thing at night, I would follow Kevs advice above. The Nikon system has an "auto ISO" function, I use it for 90% of my shots. I have a D7200 so assume the 7100 is similar.:

Turn the camera on and press the menu button,go to the photo shooting menu by using the scroll button (the small camera icon on the left hand side) and press the right hand side of the scroll wheel, move down the displayed options until you highlight "ISO sensitivity settings and click the right hand side of the scroll wheel again,a further range of options will now show. the third one down is Auto iso,press the right hand side of the scroll wheel again and select on. Go back one step and then you can select a max iso from the fourth option down and a minimum shutter speed from the fifth.

For night shooting I would max out at 6400 ISO and the subjects you want to shoot need maybe 1/500th, try these settings. and see how you go on, you may need more or less shutter speed. Only you know how dark it actually is out there.

The good side to this is that you don`t have to worry about iso settings, the camera does that for you, so stick it in "S" mode then follow the other guys advice. Personally, I would shoot this in manual mode, some people seem fazed by manual mode, but it is quite easy if auto iso is enabled. I will happily run it through with you if you like. The down side is that high iso does produce a grainy image, as Kev says above, a grainy image is better than a blurred one.

Best of luck and keep at it, help is always at hand.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FNQGU

The H subsetting there is likely for High Speed (ie. burst mode) I think. Someone who uses Nikon can tell you better than I could.

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You are correct mate.CH is indeed continuous high shutter burst, CL is a slower option. Both are adjustable via the menu option.

[emoji108]🏼 Okie Dokie .... Might have to go looking for night races .. LOL .. Or just go hang out at the drag races in the name of education of course!!

Thanks so much everyone ...


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A bit of a thread excavation. Well, I'm out of action for another three weeks, so I am trying to learn my new camera. I have a Canon 1500D with a standard 18-55mm and scored a 75-300mm zoom lens on special.

I am trying to catologue as many bird species that live on my property as I can. I will need to get a better zoom lens for the more shy species, so any advice on what to go for would be appreciated.

These pictures were taken in auto mode and sports mode with the 75-300 lens.


Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks Mudnut, I'd forgotten about this thread. Very timely as I need to learn as well.

I have never had a half decent camera before, so I am a complete novice, Jack.

I also want to know if the Sigma brand lenses are worth getting?

Hey mudy, yes Sigma lenses are definatly good quality. Didn't know this thread was here will have to sit down and have a good read [emoji106]

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