No dont bother..
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No dont bother..
you are going up in size are you ?
I just need to get a good, solid system, and I have seen, first hand, how a good set of extractors can let the engine breathe. I understand that having too big a system can actually slow the gas flow.
Half right, it slows it because there isn't enough pressure to push it through at speed. Just think about it as if it were a hose, water coming out the end of the hose flows well but not with any real pressure. Put a nozzle on it and it has plenty of pressure cause the outlet is smallerQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Slap a 2.5" system on it mate.
I'm sure we can graft extractors into the original system untill funds permit the rest.
I can mod while you fix my dash..
Sounds like a plan. I will rip off a few heat shields and see exactly where the hole is.
As a matter of interest, I have been reading up on fitting EFI to the Old Trol, with the end objective of fitting a turbo. I have read about Single Point EFI on early Falcons. Apparently the system with the injector situated after the butterfly is way better.
I was wondering if it would be easier to fit that, instead of having to get a new EFI head, loom, fuel pump etc. Any thoughts?
I think this is right up Georges alley .... he even had or has gear I think for it?? but I have been known time and time again to be so very wrong !!!
Imo fit the fuel injected system with injection into cylinder.
The single point was very uneven with fuel distribution and 1 & 6 received less than 3 & 4.
The multi point is more efficient also with better power output.
But price is always an issue.
The carby has the same problem. Multi point is way better, Kallen. My 4wd Corolla 4 banger had that with extractors, and it went like a cut cat.
I am also looking at ease of installation and overall cost, as well simplicity.
I recently met a young bloke who has acquired a twin turbo set up with all the required plumbing. He was going to convert his stock RB30 to EFI and leave it as a duel fuel system with the turbos.
As the vehicle was only going to be used as a weekend warrior and for towing, we convinced him to just run LPG via a Gas Research Carby as that would be way easier, and he can tune it for maximum horsepower.
I have read that the carby can starve for fuel on steep hills. I haven't experienced it yet, and don't intend to get stuck halfway up a huge sand dune with no way of getting back down.
The heads on carby, efi and turbo efi are the same, the cams are different obviously for each application but the head will need to be removed to install some form of decomp device like a thicker head gasket ( I used a cometic 1.9mm thick head gasket which was the minimum gap I needed for a un machined head ). The only difference between the looms between the turbo and na was the turbo had a knock sensor near the oilfilter, the na loom should have the wire there but you'll just need to get a plug and sensor (in my vl I used one from an r33 skyline). The distributor is different between carby and efi also. There is a difference between the plenum chambers on the na and turbo motors being that the efi has larger runners and makes the motor a few extra ponies with the turbo but unless you run straight lpg or take the gamble and wait to get epa'd your best bet would be to run the correct manifold for turbo. Turbo injectors are also larger, to feed them you'd fit a high volume high pressure intank fuel pump or a surge tank and external fuel pumps. The other main difference is the ecu's, the turbo has a second mother board internally for the knock sensor. The good thing is auto computers can be used with manual cars but not vice versa.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Personally I would find the genuine parts for the conversion and not to try and re invent the wheel by trying to addapt a center point injection system. I would use vl turbo parts if I was going to keep the car easy to maintane or keep the rb30 block and fit and efi system from an rb25det r33 skyline depending on what you can afford or how far you want to go with adding power and efficiency, obviously a DOCH motor is far superior to a SOCH motor but like I said it all comes down to cost
Yeah I do have most of the gear ( mainly the harder parts ) for efi and the turbo conversions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
Thanks 007. That is a very detailed post as to why I should go skyline or vl. I was wondering if it was an easy thing, because of the V8 efi units that directly replace Carbies. It will have to be another thing to add to the list of future mods.
Does anybody know where I can purchase the dished washers for the panhard bar?
Edit: I got one from the wreckers
I found that when a former owner of my Old Trol cut a huge hole to fit in an eliptical pioneer speaker and has weakened the door structure.
I have built a brace that spans the gap, behind the speaker, but the hinge is still moving when the door is closed.
I plan to weld tabs to both hinges and bolt on a brace to the spare wheel holes.
Are the hinges on a Q made of mild steel and therefore easy to weld?
If I stop the door from flexing will any extra force be applied to the rear pillar and cause other problems?
I thought they were hardened steel??
I cant be sure though.
I'm pretty sure the reinforcement inside the door is already mounted to hinges. It runs along the the skin.
Yeah, but the extra flex created by the hole seems to have led to metal fatigue.
Might be pressed steel case hardened, I would think they would be weldable
If in doubt try it with a file
They may even be cast, thus the file test
@ MN you going to turbo the "Q" ?
Nah, mate. I was happy with the guinea pig's performance at the Beachport / Robe meetup. I have decided a snorkel is to be the next mod, when and if funds permit it.
How long are standard GU panhard rods? Would they drag the axles back to the centre after the 2 inch lift?
Bump...........
did you get any washers ,??? I'm going to TJM tomorrow so I see what they have lying around lol
You have a GU John measure yours for him???Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I thought they were all the same length but not sure at all.
TJM Coburg are shifting to Mattews Ave Opposite Ess. airport entrance .
Hoping there will be heaps of GQ gear hidden in the back corners,
Anyway if its there I hope its going cheap, None of the guys have GQs
they are mainly T boys
Yeah, I got the washer from Readies and have drilled a hole through the stripped section of the panhard stud, cut a slot in the nut, and have fitted a cotter pin to ensure the panhard stays put.
Cool I'll still see whats available for GQs
The fusible links are becoming a hard item to obtain, TD.
It now sounds as if the power steering pump bearing is on its way out. Has any one ever stripped a pump and reconditioned it?
Jesus mate you must be so hard on your car driving rally style everywhere. ..lol
It has had a few swims in deep muddy water, so I think its all catching up with me now. I was hoping it is possible to take the pulley and circlip off, flip the seal off the bearing and re-grease it until I can get some dough to replace the pump.
Finally fitted headers and I am happy with the results . Now waiting for a refund for the defective engine pipe, so I can get it tuned on the dyno and see what horsepower it has gained.
2 things did you fix the power steering pump and is your snorkle fitted?
No and no. The PS pump noise disappeared, so I ain't gunna fix what ain't broke. The snorkel is beginning to be a pipe dream. Pardon the pun. These are the pics I put up the other day,
of the shelf under the dash , the dashmat and the headers.
nice work as usual, What about some 100mm exhaust pipe a 90 and a 45 rubber bend for a snorkel
Cheap as chips ,still look good , powder coat the pipe,
I think the lot for less than $100-$150
Surely someone has done this.??
Yeah, there are a few build threads, and I do like the look the steel snorkel, but I wouldn't want a steel pipe flailing around and entering the cab in an accident. I haven't done much wheeling of late, any way, so it can wait.
Nah you're too paranoid no one has ever died from being hit by a snorkle.LOL
To help water proofing the engine, along with the dipstick clip, the timing belt cover hose nipple and the air breathers, I have also raised the Thermal Vacuum Valve inlet and added a filter to it.
The Passenger side coil tower is bent, so I have ordered a Superior Engineering Coil Brace Kit (no body lift) and will attempt to fit it when it turns up.
Long time between posts there buddy lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I could of posted that I updated the anti theft system a month ago:P