Do you have a lift kit fitted?
Also gearbox mounts may be stuffed and allowed the gear box to drop, thus reducing the cross member and shaft gap.
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Do you have a lift kit fitted?
Also gearbox mounts may be stuffed and allowed the gear box to drop, thus reducing the cross member and shaft gap.
If it does have a lift done, maybe they didn't fit gearbox spacers.
Westy's, mudnut
Yes, has a lift, but had the lift for a while.
Not sure about gearbox spacers. What do they look like? Washers or a plate? But wouldn't spacers bring the gearbox down, bringing the shaft closer to this crossmember?
Not sure about mounts.
Am going to wait for MOF to get home before I go looking under again.
Cheers,
Evo
You could try taking the rear shaft out, lock your hubs and put it 4wd so it basically becomes a front wheel drive. If the noise is gone then great if not then it rules it out.
So just confirming with this response, with the hubs either locked or not, there was no change in noise? When the front hubs are locked, as previously mentioned, they do make abit of noise. I'm guessing your auto hubs aren't disengaging and your front prop is spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Can you get some photos of the set up. As Westy said, the mounts could be stuffed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Ok, so after a few pain killers, a lot of huffing and puffing, a lot of pretending I was a turtle on my back, and many many obscenities, I have ruled out a few things.
-There are no transmission crossmember spacers
-Tail shaft is not contacting the crossmember (front or rear shafts)
-I found the lock nut on the front panhard was floating along the threads (tightened that which solved my steering click)
-Rear diff seems fine, no play in the yoke
-Noise seems to be forward of the front seats
-When jolting the clutch from standstill in first or reverse, there seems to be a clunk or knock in the front end
-When rocking the front side to side (pushing and pulling top of tyre to make front of car move) there seems to be play somewhere in the front axle/suspension.
-Put in 4H, pulled forward, heard hubs click in. Idled along in 1st gear in 4H, jumped out and walked next to car, everything spinning smoothly, front shaft, rear shaft, nothing touching or grinding
-Put in 2H, reversed, heard hubs click out. Idled along again, jumped out again, front shaft not spinning, everything else fine as before
Does this narrow anything down for anyone?
Cheers,
Evo
With the nut loose on the panhard, the dished washer should be fitted with the convex side to the rubber (dish to nut), or it will loosen the nut. That clunk, or knock could be a loose front wheel bearing. Jack up the front axle until the front wheels are off the ground. Pack under the axle so it wont move, then check if there is vertical movement of the wheels. Also make sure the handbrake is releasing fully as it can cause strange noises to appear in the drive train.
Panhard has no rubber or washer on the locking nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Handbrake is always fully off (I make sure every time)
As for jacking up the front, I don't have the gear to do that sort of thing.
When you say loose bearing, is there an adjustment on there? And would this possibly explain the rumbling issue?
Cheers
Evo
You can adjust the front wheel bearings, but when mine were loose I had a
shudder of the steering wheel under brakes, but sounds like you're getting closer
This is a picture of a GQ panhard. Note the washer clamps onto the steel tube in the centre of the panhard bush. To check the wheel bearings, just do one side at a time, using the nissan jack.
Hhmmmm..
Have you tried 4h at speed, 60k etc?
Panhard locking nut on the adjustment thread, not mountings.
Only jack I have is a hi lift and I'm not too keen on using that.
Will 4H on bitumen at speed not cause transmission windup?
Evo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Should fine as long as all your Tyres are the same size and you don't have a locked differential.
Along as you remember to take it out after lol..Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
My bad, didn't read your post properly, the word LOCKING escaped me, somehow. I should have wrote 'binding on' when explaining about the handbrake. I had a knocking and grinding noise which manifested itself in the front left hub. It turned out to be the handbrake shoe wasn't fully clear of the drum when released.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Weird but true.
Evo,
As you are incapacitated with your bad back, I would just put it in with the mechanic you felt you got the best advice from....
I had a squeak in the front end of a Falcon, which I could swear was coming from the strut, and in taking it to my mechanic, he immediately diagnosed it as a ball joint - which it ended up being and he was totally correct....not all mechanics are useless, as they build up a large knowledge bank of potential problems and fixes
Mic
I am considering going with the one who said its the clutch, as I will be needing to replace it this year sometime anyway, but it will take me a while to get enough money for that, so was hoping this would be a cheaper fix to keep me mobile until clutch funds have grown.
Evo
just seen your thread mate, sorry but I'm not overly mechanically minded but if I can be of any assistance I will..... I'm in Redcliffe, so about half hour away. I think Rustyboner lives quite near to you, so maybe we might be able to get down and have a gander.......... But would probably have to be next weekend for me if you can wait
Good stuff Clunky
Appreciate the offer mate. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
It's going in Wednesday first thing for a test to locate exactly where this issue is. Hopefully I will know enough to update after I get home.
Not sure myself but someone might know of this test. They attach sensors to different parts of the vehicle, and have a device that let's them listen to each sensor individually for noises.
Hope this works.
Thanks again Clunk, might have to take you up on that offer if Wednesday turns up unfruitful.
Cheers
Evo
Good luck with it Evo, keep us updated mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Yep I'm happy to come look as well, never know between us all we may be able to find something wrong.
Thanks Stropp and Clunk.
Will post up the outcome of Wednesday.
Cheers,
Evo
Ok mate seems like you have it under control for now, let's know what the outcome is and I will give you a hand if you need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Yep. Basically an electronic stethoscope with multiple inputs. Works a treat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
As Clunky and Stropp said, give us a yell and we will be there to help...................not that I would be of any use but you never know..lol
Do you have a dual mass flywheel?, hard to answer I know unless you had one fitted.
They do weird stuff when the start to fail.
Whatever it is it should show up on the test you are talking about, all very interesting.
Long gone are the days of listening via the end of a screwdriver!
Not sure about the dual mass flywheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
Some have said the TB45 didn't have one, some say they did, I don't know either way.
Cheers,
Evo
I was also under the impression the TB45s didn't. Thought it was just the 3ltr wheezersQuote:
Originally Posted by Evo
Yes, that's what I heard, 3.0, but also 2.8.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Picking up some manual locking/freewheeling hubs with gear to convert my auto hubs over.
$150 isn't much to avoid auto hub issues in the future (if they are still ok now)
Evo
Ok,
So after the fancy diagnosing session, which cost $77, the issue has been somewhat narrowed down.
The mechanic recommended I get my engine mounts replaced as they are in need of it, as he said it seems to be the plating either side of the rubber (where the plates are bent to hook into each other) as there is basically no clearance here due to the rubber having collapsed a lot.
If there is still an issue, he recommends clutch next, and has told me that rest of driveline is good.
After hearing all this, I'm still not sure whether to believe what I'm told, but engine mounts are a cheap start, so fingers crossed.
And I'll need a clutch later anyhow, I have known this since last year, but the longer I can put it off, the better.
Plus I'll get onto the auto-manual hub conversion over the weekend hopefully.
With the locking hubs, I was going to use some medium strength loctite on the cap head bolts. Is this ok or what do you guys recommend?
Cheers
Evo
Torque the bolts up to what the manual states and all should be good. I always run a very light bead blue sealant between the mating surfaces as well.
By blue sealant, I'm guessing RTV type? Like gasket goo stuff?
Evo
Yep, but just a wee bit of sealant, as you don't want any to get into the mechanism. I wonder if you could jam something (wood or rubber) into the engine mount and take the Patrol for a spin, to see if the noise disappears?
The manual hub kit I'm picking up seems to have a round gasket???Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
No sealant required maybe?
I'll let you know tomorrow about the mount situation.
Evo
Gday Evo.
I have read this thread and I must say well done to you and everyone for diagnosing this issue. Although you havnt got to a solution yet, I am sure that you will.
I would like to offer an experience that I am experiencing on my Ford Explorer. I have a similar noise with it however it happens irregularly and cannot be replicated, it does happen every day and is getting worse. My issue is that the Spigot Bearing (or Pilot Bearing as it is also know) in the clutch assembly is buggered and needs replacing. This I am doing in the next two weeks after the part arrives from the US. So a new clutch kit with Thrust bearing and Spigot bearing are on the cards for me.
When the grinding noise happens it is quite loud and you can feel it through the clutch pedal and the steering wheel (and yes through my butt when in the drivers seat!)
Not sure if this helps you but thought I would offer it up for you to think about. Sounds like you have eliminated everything else.
Cheers,
Rob
No sealant, then. I use a tiny bit of grease on each side of the gasket to stop it from sticking to the surfaces.
Now have a choice between HD AVM hubs or another billet type manual hub.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Which one to go for?
And are they a straight replacement for the auto hubs?
Evo
Apparently the billet ones require some egg ring? Sounds like making Sunday breakfast while woking on the Troll.
The HD AVM ones are apparently straight bolt on...
Does this sound right?
Also, the AVM have a longer warranty than the other ones, so kinda leaning towards the AVM...
Evo