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No probs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
Here is a couple more. A couple of very good pics of the backing plate
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In the last pic you can see how much loving I had to give it. There is a steel shroud encased in the plastic of part of it. It was a biatch!!!
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I did most of it without removing the rear banjo fuel line, take it off, soo much easier without it in the way, don't loose the bloody washer!!!!
OK. thanks a lot for that. Mine needs a bit of similar treatment to what you've done me thinks.
Maybe i'll have a go at getting in there with the die grinder.......
Oh yeah I forgot about that! Definitely need a die grinder or Dremel. I did a heap of work cutting off the bolt heads with the Dremel mate. Newby had suggested cutting a slot to then get a screw driver on them but was never going to happen still on the car. (Mat did this job on a bench)Quote:
Originally Posted by geckster
So grind off the bolt heads then get into it with a 10mm wood chisel, worked way better than a big screw driver.
Correction, I did it on the vehicle also mate. It was just a suggestion if you could slot them then it may be easier. (Don't worry I'm not upset just letting you know I went through the same pain)Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Kool, sorry mate, I thought Paul had said you had it out of the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Regardless was a bugger of a job. So we are in a small club Mat ;) Lived that Pain!!
I saw some tiny litttle cutting discs for dremels the other day at the hardware shop. Might be worth a try.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Thank MR will be a great help.
Hi Guys, great thread heaps of info.....I don't suppose anyone has done this to a 2001 GU 3.0?
Great information contained in here. Having multiple people successfully carry out the removal of the CSOLU gave me a fair bit of confidence although as previously mentioned that first whack is a hard step to take.
My story is that a week ago my 2005 4.2 patrol didn't start warm. After a few attempts it started and all seemed OK. Over the week it deteriorated to the point that it would not start warm at all and would only start to get to work and to get home from work. Also, as is common here the red immobiliser light came on after about a minute of driving.
The instructions contained here are great so I thought it was worth adding my notes and photos as I am sure others will have this issue.
I removed intercooler bolts and disconnected the large hoses and then just lifted it out of the way with the smaller hoses still connected. A piece of wood held it up.
Definitely disconnect as much of the wiring loom as you can from around the area and tie it back to the side. I had dual battery cables in the vicinity so had to get those out of the way as well. The more room the better.
Make sure you catch everything when you disconnect the fuel line (ie washers) it's a bugger when they fall and don't make it out the bottom.
I didn't have to go through the base plate of the CSOLU. Once I reached the circuit board I levered it out carefully and unsoldered the sought after white wire, which had about 10mm of insulation protruding plus the wire that was soldered to the circuit board.
A laptop and USB webcam were very useful to have a look at where I was at and what needed attacking next.
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Mission control
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And another one , undid the bolts with a small pair of long nose vice grips , easy as , ( on this one anyway )
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Yeah, I think MudRunner just made it sound hard to build the drama LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
lmfao!! I have no idea how you got purchase with the pliers!! I couldnt even see it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
I am in wollongong and will pass all this info to my auto electrician. My GU IV is now a shiny paper weight, no go. Why is it that this is about the only electrical device on the whole car bar the stereo and it craps itself. So that the car is useless.
Guess what? mine has just shit itself today, I'm gunna have to have another read of this again to get my head around all of it. My patrol is a 2008 build with 3.0l CRD and I'm heading out to the Canning Stock in 4 weeks, glad this didnt happen out there or I would of been screwed. Whats wrong with Nissan, its a very confused motor company, they build great vehicles like strength and comfort but they power them with shit power plants, I just dont get it. Now I got to ring my sparky to see if we bypass this crap system or pay the stealer drug money to get it fixed. Or take MR great forum advice and hack it. I think I may not have the nurries to do that.
On the ignition column, I can see exposed wire around this plastic shroud that encases the ignition switch, so maybe thats the issue and may need replacing, however still want to disable this stupid complex system.
I had the same thing, exposed wires and that is what picks up the transponder signal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesolinedreams
I paid Nissan to replace it and it took them 3 days to get the part.
All fixed, Nissan were surprising good, cost me $500 tho, however its all done. Was key reader around the ignition switch. Bloody thing
Ok, mates, just had a flareup with the NATS on my 99 GU RD28Ti. Took it in for a pump and injector rebuild and the shop that is doing it reinstalled the pump and injectors, but now the NATS is not working correctly and the car won't start. It is still in the shop so they are still working on it, but I may have to go enlighten them. It's a reputable place here for this kind of work, but they may have messed up the solenoid on the injector pump.
Anyone have any advice that I need to tell them? Should I have them bypass the system completely? I do have an aftermarket security system in it (which should have bypassed the factory immobilizer).
Bump for Stropp. Yell out if you need anything mate.
Thanks MR. I got it sorted by swapping out the injector pump for a mechanical one ;) Here in Siberia I need reliability and straight mechanical is about as reliable as it gets.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Thanks Darren, as you geussed it seems nats is the problem, when hot it wont go, when you pour water over the nats on the pump to cool it down, no problems so tomorrow it gets attacked. will keep you informed, i knew i should have done this 12 mths ago.
Good luck mate I hope you sort it out and this thread is some help.
Its a crap job . Did one myself , second one $200 at deisel Australia, happily gave them the money and picked it up 2hrs later
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the diesel specialist here said you need to pull the pump off, no way im doing that, we have removed the control unit but are just trying to sort out the wiring as my white wire has power all the time even with ignition off
Let me see if I can find a convo I had with Matt or Rodney about that hai pm, was a long time ago.
There is the answer earlier in the thread Stropp.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
so why does mine have 12v power all the time?? i think we will just wire it from an ignition source to be safe, that should still work.
It should be the middle wire in the 3 pin connector. Do you have a shut down timer fitted?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yendor
ah yes that will be why i have power all the time :)
Its alive, the bolts screwed out without much trouble so not too much bashing, thanks heaps guys for the info and pics were awesome, also thanks to Darren and Yendor, so much easier with good knowledge. cheers Stropp
Well had it out a few times now and it keeps starting so feeling more confident now with it again
going through this at the moment. not enjoying myself at all.
How did you go with it mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by mickw1912
Hey Yendor, got all fixed and running mate, but I have another problem now. I went to transfer diesel from the sub tank, but it didnt activate. This is something I noticed when the NATS started malfunctioning, if the red light was on, the sub wouldnt pump.
Any sugestions?
05 STS 4.2
Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and it will clear the Codes, Hopefully this fixes your trouble. Is the Subtank Light on?Quote:
Originally Posted by mickw1912
No mate, she doesnt respond at all. Ill try the disconect and let you know soon.
is there only the one wire thats needs reconnecting after removing the mode, or is there an earth wire also?
See post #66 above for the wiring description.Quote:
Originally Posted by mickw1912
No good mate.
Hey new to the thread can some one help me with info on how to bypass the nats on a CRD zd30 patrol