The thing is Lionel, does yours have a rod or a cable?, rod is 24 and cable is 12v, but if it's 12v it would most likely have a turbo!
Cheers the ferret.
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The thing is Lionel, does yours have a rod or a cable?, rod is 24 and cable is 12v, but if it's 12v it would most likely have a turbo!
Cheers the ferret.
Hello The Ferret, Rodney and Others,
Here are some photographs showing some more detail of what I have got to work with. Can anyone let me know if I am missing any parts. The first photograph is of either the remnants of a slide or a cable control?
Is there anything I am missing off the throttle control on the inlet manifold - apart from the air cleaner & pre-cleaner?
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello The Ferret,
Sadly there is no sign of a turbo ever being fitted. The previous owner was a mechanic so he may have already done a complete 24 volt to 12 volt conversion. Since the vehicle was a deceased estate it is a bit hard to contact the previous owner to ask what work was done on the motor.
Oh buying the vehicle was one of those sight unseen spur of the moment eBay purchases. You know the type where you put on a single bid and hope someone comes along and outbids you - well no one did. Perhaps they were more clever than I was!
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
While I was taking photographs I thought I would take some of how the seat box has to be modified so the smaller 4WD/2WD transfer case lever (?) has to be freed from the current seating arrangement. Is that tube on top of the gearbox meant to look like it has been cut off as standard or is something else missing from it?
All the fun of the fair hey!
My goal is to get the vehicle able to move around my paddock under its own propulsion while being able to change gears. Other things like brakes, gauges and other road worthy concerns are all minor elements at the moment. At this stage the only wiring I will do is to be able to get the engine started and be able to turn it off.
My main objective is to have the motor and gearbox splashing oil around internally so things do not deteriorate any further. Plus the clutch working properly. Hopefully I am not too late to do this. I am not sure when the engine last turned over so it will be interesting.
Rodney since you have Land Rover experience do you think that the clutch master cylinder of a Land Rove Series 3 would be sufficient in capacity to handle the Nissan SD33 clutch? It looks like the previous owner was going to use it - maybe he never got around to converting it over? Who knows???
Kind Regards
Lionel
Injector pump control rod missing, Dash pot (vacuum controlled) missing from bracket next to inlet.
I would be hoping the inside of injector pump is better than the outside, and that as it has a metal oil filler cap( Not plastic ) this motor seems to have come from a big wooden ship that a bloke named Noah built to transport animals quite some time ago!!.
Cheers, the ferret.
EDIT, unless this thing was kept in a shed, I would be pulling the drain plugs to check for water, any water in the box and it's all over yellow rover.
Hello The Ferret,
Thank you for the reply. I found another link to the Edic Motor and this time the bloke gives a commentary of the positions.
I did not know that Noah was so advanced. I thought he only had paddles or maybe a treadmill the animals used to turn a propeller!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApntvoWVh_M
Apart from being the same vintage as Noah do you have any idea of the year of manufacture of the motor from what the photographs show? I sent an email to Nissan Australia and contacted some dealers with the engine number and they have not got back to me as yet.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hi Lionel,
From what I can see, this is a very early SD33 NA., about 1980, the gearbox is not Nissan as is the transfer, the clutch could be anything, I'd say the Rover master cylinder would do the job with a Nissan slave.
By the looks I doubt if the fuel primer will work, never know tho.
The oil filler cap seems to be from a L28 or P40 petrol motor.
Does the motor turn by hand?
As you say, the history of the motor and what was done to it is lost forever, I wish my Ancestors from 1645 had made notes, it would help so much with my tree lol.
Carry on regardless, ( rewardless )
Cheers, the ferret.
Hello The Ferret,
Going back to 1645 with your Family Tree is a very good effort.
As far as priming goes I have learnt from the benefit of other people's wisdom. I have another Land Rover which is a pretty much 100% stock standard Long Wheel Base Series 3 ute. It is powered by a 2.25 litre four cylinder diesel 3. The previous owner installed dual fuel tanks and he fitted an electric fuel pump to work in between them. Fortunately for me, this also doubles up as a priming pump. So I did not have to use the old hand primer when I accidentally ran one tank dry trying to work out the positioning of the tank switch lever. I just have to turn the pump on, open up the bleed screw and once it has a nice stream of diesel tighten the bleed screw up, Then I just move onto bleed screw number two.
I plan on doing a similar installation on the Nissan. Well I hope a similar installation on the Nissan will work? Cross fingers.
I have not tried to turn the motor over yet - the viscous fan does not allow a direct turn on to the motor by hand and the alternator pulley belts were disconnected to try in turn through the belts. I will be optimistic and I will believe what the previous owner's son said. That the motor was overhaul prior to his dad getting sick. Okay call me gullible.
Kind Regards
Lionel
A few bits and pieces and you will be up and running in no time at all .....
You can use a spanner/ socket on the Harmonic bolt to turn it.
After bleeding the injector pump, you need to bleed an injector as well (two spanners)
I would have thought that if it was originally a petrol, that a 5 speed Nissan box would be fitted, as the SD 33 will be screaming at 80ks.
With regard to the transfer lever, you should be able to make up something similar to the Nissan remote operation.
Once you have bled the fuel, fitted starter etc, push the fuel control lever forward (start), then back to centre (run), then try and start it, to stop motor, pull the lever rearwards (stop)
Cheers, the ferret.
Yep, 1645, I think my GGGGGGrandfather worked in a Nissan factory making SD33s.
Hello The Ferret,
Thank you for all your information. Now that I have been looking at it the adaptor plate between the engine and gear box is really obvious.
I have taken some more photographs of the gear box and of the numbers on the top of the gear box.
Has anyone heard of a mob called MF Conversions? There is what looks like a Victorian phone number - well maybe a phone number and then below it a product code MFC 021
Yes I did try a couple of different versions of the telephone number just in case - they were all disconnected or not really phone numbers.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hi Lionel,
I think that's the original adaptor/spacer, I would be keeping an eye out for a 5 speed MK gearbox and clutch.
If the Rover diffs are off set as the MQ/MK, this would be a better option, however, Land rover diffs are known to snap axles.
Cheers, the ferret.
Hello All,
I had a win. I thought outside the box and reckoned that there cannot be that many adaptor plate manufacturers in Australia so I contacted Dellow Conversions. Within half an hour of my email being sent Dellow's were kind enough to send back a reply.
"MF Conv" stood for Mark French Conversions who are now known as Mark's 4WD Adaptors.
I have sent them my series of photographs with the details such as the serial numbers.
Cross fingers I might be able to find out the parts, models and manufacturers of my Nissan SD33 Frankenstein conversion!
I do contract research for a crust and I am about to finish two contracts. It maybe a while before the next contract comes up. This means I will have to make do with what is there and to get the vehicle started budget wise. I will need to buy a starter motor (on its way) and an alternator. Oh and swap over one of my spare Land Rover clutch master cylinders and find out what breed of clutch slave cylinder it is.
Hopefully Mark's 4WD Adaptors will soon be able to fill me in on a couple of finer points. Such as who were the donors.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello The Ferret,
Were the Air Cleaner and the Pre-cleaner standard across the MQ Patrol range?
As in does one size fit all for the SD33?
Or are there differences between 24 volt, 12 volt turbo and non-turbo?
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hi Lionel,
I think they are all the same through the SD33s, you should find all the stuff you need for the motor at the Wreckers or Ebay.
Cheers, the ferret.
Rod and Rodney, to 2 Roddys lol.
Two of the best, good work guys helpin out Lionel, Well done.
Hi-jack
Love reading both of your knowledge, haha if that makes sense (I love scotch)
You both helped me out plenty in the past by reading your posts. Thanks guys, and great to see you still here deflator Rod, hope you got the shiz sorted.
Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app
No Worries Mate, that's what it's all about, it also helps take my mind off those who shouldn't be breathing (long story)Quote:
Originally Posted by wild98
I wonder if Lionel is aware of the patrol billing system for Questions answered, Auto Electricians and Mechanical Fitter /Turners don't come cheap!!
Cheers, the ferret.
Hello The Ferret,
There is only one Nissan MQ at the wreckers in town and it is a SWB MQ 1980 SD33 24 volt which they had a bloke in the yard who was thinking about buying it as a whole vehicle earlier in the week. I am going back there tomorrow to see what became of it.
If it is still there I know who will be walking out with an arm load of parts! No not the 24 volt stuff though - life is complicated enough with Frankenstein Land Rover Nissan as things stand now. The bloke at the wreckers did telephone around to the other wreckers in town and they drew a blank. So Bundaberg is a bit limited MQ Patrol SD33 wise at the wreckers.
There is a bloke from a wrecker in North Queensland who said he will ring me back. That was last Friday though.... Same thing with a wrecker in Victoria or was it South Australia...
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hey Lionel,
How much does he want for the whole shebang, get it fer $500 and ya got the lot, I'd leave it 24v, the turbo injector pump is different as with the Edic.
Stick the diffs under the rover and go 35 tyres.
Cheers, the ferret. Question value $0.43c
$1400 with rust in the chassis thrown in for free. Non turbo.
A bit rich Lionel, there are others around if you have time to wait, up to you tho, and if the motor is good and the running gear ok, you could swap n mix, at least with the Rover you won't get body rust!!
Bound to be members on here with the things you need.
Cheers, the ferret.
Hello The Ferret,
Yes I thought the price was a bit steep too. I am not in a great hurry so I will see what turns up when the time is right for it.
Thanks for all the information. I will let you know what I hear back from the adaptor conversion place.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
I called in at the local wreckers and the SWB MQ was still there. No one had bought it as a whole unit. This meant I was first in.
I now have an air cleaner unit and the pre-cleaner unit. I should have also got the starter motor bolts except I did not expect the vehicle to be still there so I had not brought my tools. I had to borrow some of the wreckers tools to get the air cleaner parts off. Nissan sure as hell did not want them falling off did they! I also grabbed some parts to do with the accelerator mechanism that is mounted to the throat of the inlet manifold. Namely the bits that are not sitting off the side of my inlet manifold!
The 12 volt starter motor arrived in the post from the interstate wrecker today as well. Now I just have the alternator to go.
Postage or freight on the air component stuff would have been massive since they are not the lightest or smallest of items. Plus I got to see what else was hanging off the sides of the inlet manifold and all the bolts, nuts and washers too.
I am a lot further advanced than what I was less than five days ago. Thank you for all your assistance to date especially The Ferret. Rodney, Yendor and Spoonie. Yendor the tip about the voltage being written on the glow plug was a really good one because it let me know what capacity of voltage I was after.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
I received a tip today that the gearbox and clutch in my Land Rover Series 3 could be that of a Nissan Cabstar. If my engine is from the Ark it would have been fitted to only a 4 speed gearbox and the conversion to a Cabstar would have made it a 5 speed box.
Can anyone go back a couple of pages and look at the photographs I posted earlier to see if it looks like a Cabstar gearbox to you?
Have a good weekend!
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hi Lionel,
The motor is Nissan SD33NA, the adaptor is Nissan, the clutch....dunno.. the box, well it looks unlike any Nissan box I know of, I am guessing it's a Landrover box of some sort.
Cheers, the ferret
Hello The Ferret,
The rear end of the gearbox is a Land Rover Transfer Case. The rest of the main part of the box from the adaptor plate to the transfer case is not a Land Rover one - that would be too simple. I just rang the late owner's son and he says it is a type of Nissan gearbox which came off a cane farm somewhere near Mackay. The engine, adapter and gearbox came down from there and was fitted to a local vehicle, well partly fitted.
I have posted some more photographs of the clutch slave cylinder and of symbol and code number 60212. The last photo is of a bloke's Nissan Cabstar gearbox and it has the number 71129 on it and it was mentioned that this is a Nissan Cabstar code. In both my photograph and the other bloke's photo the top symbol looks the same as in my gearbox - unfortunately my one has a different number ... of course - that would have been just too easy!
Kind Regards
Lionel
Well i woud like to say here that if you take out a shine connect and hit it with a cable fan it should have 24v imprinted on it or the area rover is a 12v program and your losing a beginner engine, set the eng up as a 12v program..
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Hello All,
I took the slave cylinder off in the hope that it might have some conclusive identifying marks like a brand symbol or a part number - yeah right! What it did have marked was a surprise 7/8 raised cast on the flat surface near the bleed screw and the inlet pipe.
That got me scratching my head a bit. What an Imperial measurement fitting be doing on a Japanese - well I assumed so manufactured part Metric part???
So I had a hunch. I went to my parts box and pulled the new slave cylinder out that I was going to fit to my stock standard Land Rover Series 3 with a 2.25 litre diesel. I put it next to the slave cylinder I just pulled off the Nissan and bugger me! It is a Land Rover part. It is just fitted on the vehicle with a very heavy steel fabricated bracket fitted to the bell housing.
So a Nissan SD33 NA engine a MF Conv MFC 021 adaptor,
a Land Rover Series clutch slave cylinder
The main gearbox has the remnants of Nissan blue paint on its sides. A symbol of what some people claim is Nissan mark.
finished with a Land Rover transfer case on the end.
I wonder if the Land Rover slave cylinder means that a Land Rover clutch and pressure plate is fitted?
Kind Regards
Lionel