Thanks mate, do you remember who the seller was and where you happy with the service from them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Cheers
Todd
Printable View
Thanks mate, do you remember who the seller was and where you happy with the service from them?Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Cheers
Todd
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-S...1f6d270&_uhb=1
This was the seller. Didn't have any dramas and postage was quick. Id recommend to anyone.
Thanks mate :)
Lots done on the patrol lately. Might be doubling up here but I'll list the latest additions. Rear spring hats are now reinforced with the superior engineering kit, have installed remote central locking/alarm, new 9" spotlights, 50w led brake headlights, ditched the rtc damper and have just a regular damper now. Much better steering feel IMO. Catch can installed, oil cooler re-sealed, new copper/brass adrad radiator, body mounts replaced and lots more I can't remember.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps8391ba16.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps90be7110.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps28ba16b2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psbb06e3b0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...CCDA1F8808.jpg
Am toying with the idea of giving the patrol a repaint, but isn't a priority at the moment.
Which 9" lights did you go??
Got them free off eBay. 55w hid units. Not bad, time will tell how well they cope.
Free???? WtfQuote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
How did you find fitting the strengthening kit, Parksy?
Was alright, I did it in the shed while on jacks which made it harder. Access is quite tight and getting the bolts to start in the brace was interesting, but all successful in the end. But surprisingly, the brace does just slide into place, no body lift required. I honestly thought that I'd have to jack the body up. But all good.
Has been a busy day today, removed all the dash last night and proceeded today by removing all the cracked ceramic insulation and installing fatmat insulation.
Dash removal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps24942422.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps2d94a186.jpg
Heater core removed. I left the aircon hooked up for obvious reasons, but the unit was unbolted so I could work behind it fairly easily.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps3698bb85.jpg
Getting there...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psb11b8fe0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps6a682647.jpg
And the nightmare begins putting it all back together again...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps1eb47dd0.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps0165859c.jpg
But all completed now and I can't believe that I had no screws left over. Happy days! Was also a good opportunity to clean all the ducting and aircon/heater core.
The difference in sound level is night and day. Vast improvement over the old setup. Will stock up on more of this fatmat and do the rest of the truck.
That's what I wanna hear.. Or not. Awesome. A lot more resuring forking out for the big pack..
Holy heck.,...you really pulled the Jesus pin on that! Good job getting it back together....Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Thats exactly what I want to do so I can rewire everything properly... just need a time when I can be off the road for 2 days.
2 days.. Mate. Give it 2 weeks minimum..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
What are you planning on rewiring BA? 2 days is optimistic I think, but not impossible. I think overall it took me a day and a half do what I just did. Wasn't too difficult, I think it looks worse than it is. Everything comes off in stages which makes it easier. It's just like a big macano set. If anyone has questions I'm happy to answer them.
2 days is fine for me... I am rewiring all my switches and new cig plugs and also gas gauge.
I have pulled this crap apart before and know what I am getting myself in for.
I am not adding sound deadening but maybe I should, hmm...
Hey, Parksy, did you find anything around the passenger side pillar that could cause an annoying clunky clatter? I have had the glove box out and wedged foam in amongst the wiring connecters and air ducts, but it still persists. Is there a wiring loom and connecter inside the pillar?
Hey mudnut, what I've just found out is the actual dash assembly needs attention because it is a big source of noise. After all my efforts, there is still an annoying rattle which is coming from the dash, not behind it. I plan to install more fatmat to the inside of the dash to hopefully remove this noise, but I did manage to get rid of most annoying noises. But next time you're in your car, give the flat section of the dash a sharp hit with your clench fist. Hopefully this is the sound you're hearing, if not, you might have to remove the dash to find it. I noticed that the ducting mounts like to crack at the screw holes. Also on my gq ontop of the aircon radiator, there is an electrical plug that seems loose, even though it's connected. This made what seemed to be one of the annoying sounds when I wobbled it, so I just put a fillet of sealant around it to stop it vibrating.
Not sure if there's any wiring inside the pillar, would suck if there was. Could try and spray some penetrol inside the pillar to try and "glue" what ever might be inside to the wall?
This is the electrical plug I mentioned(shown disconnected)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psc681ee07.jpg
Thanks, for the photo, mate. Sorry for my belated reply. Yep I taped that connector down too. I think I will pull the head liner off at the top and have a squiz with my camera to see if there is a foreign object inside the pillar.
Is it a metallic clunking noise?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Mic
It sounds fairly heavy, but not metallic, though.
Hope you get to the bottom of the sound mudnut.
Westy, hope you haven't bought any fatmat yet. I haven't had any dramas with it yet, but after doing the job, I've then decided to read reviews online and there aren't many fans of the stuff. Apparently it's an asphalt based product that will deteriorate after time and in heat tends to fall off. Apparently it's produced in the same factory that makes a product called peel and seal which is a roofing product that can be bought for very cheap at hardware stores. They've just printed a blue logo onto this stuff and raised the price. I'll let you know how this stuff holds up during summer, if I don't decide to rip it out and replace it with the "proper" butyl product such as dynamat extreme.
Bugga.. But lucky.. Was about to order today..Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Nice patrol you got there. Keep up the good work :)
Have removed the dash again and removed the fatmat. Am very disappointed with this product. Have read posts of people using it in the US and in the heat the stuff just drips down the panels and becomes a horrible mess. Well I used a hair dryer to remove the stuff and sure enough it is not stable in heat what so ever. It just became a sticky gooey mess. But it's all gone now and am in the process of installing dynamat.
I took a photo of the dash assembly to show how it's constructed. It's basically a steel frame with padding on the top. The frame does vibrate and flex a lot when tapping it from the inside so I will be dynamating the inside of the dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps929541f1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psa0e3570a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps9b90628c.jpg
Looking good mate
I think I am jealous Parksy ol mate.......... I think maybe you should show off your car in January at the meet up!!!!!
Thanks guys, hoping this makes a big difference.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...psa768387f.jpg
Putting it all back together again. Good opportunity to put new foam on the ducting as the old foam was non existent.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps50f70f0c.jpg
How much for the Dynamat, Parksy? The local Autopro has a box of it for around $300.
I bought it off eBay mudnut. 36 square feet for 183. I saw autobarns prices for it and nearly fell over. Over 200 for the "door kit" which is only a couple of sheets.
That's normal price but they do knock 100 off as their "specials" price. Tonkins here in the Mount are currently doing it for $200..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
All back together now. The difference is amazing! Feels like a different car infact. Gearbox and engine noise is a lot quieter, road noise is muffled and no heat transfer from the firewall into the cabin what so ever. Dashboard is solid as a rock aswell, very pleased with the results! The car feels even more solid and is very nice to drive! Still plan to dynamat the rest of the doors and get rid of the fatmat in the cargo section and dynamat it then chuck some acoustic liner ontop.
Great products and I highly recommend people do it to their patrols. The dashboard isn't hard to remove, if anyone wants some pointers I can help.
Yes please. Lol. But gotta do the rust repair first..Quote:
Originally Posted by Parksy
Rust repair?
Dash removal is simple, it just seems daunting because lots of components gets removed. The trick is to label each component and keep the hardware with each item. But in a nutshell, the steering wheel is removed aswell as the covers, instrument panel and surround, center dash and radio, and the glove box. Then there are 13 screws that hold the dash onto the car. 2 on each end, 4 across the top close to the windscreen under the plastic caps, one under the instrument panel(which you will see when you remove the instrument panel and and 2 on each of the supports running down the middle of the dash(directly above the transmission tunnel).
There are a few components that will have to be removed or disconnected from the dash itself, the climate control panel will need to be removed by removing the fascia, then removing the 3 screws holding it to the dash. There's also a wire that runs from the climate controls to the airbox on the left which is secured to the dash with plastic clips, these need to be removed. There's a relay screwed to the dash in the middle of the dash on the right hand support(above the tranny tunnel). Either disconnect it electrically, or leave it connected and remove the one screw that holds it on. And that's about it, it's just a matter of pulling at the dash and it will come away and is easily removed by yourself. The only issue I had was manouvering it over the indicator and wiper stalks. But not impossible.
The ducting is very straight forward to remove, a couple of screws for each duct and they do come off in a specific order, but not hard to work out. The only duct I couldn't remove was the small one above the steering column, but it didn't get in the way anyway.
The climate controls need to be removed and disconnected at the ends of the wires, very simple. Just follow the wire to the end, unclip the metal clip, and the wire is freed. Then the actual controls are held on to the heater box with a screw.
Then the aircon/heater fan is held on with 3 nuts, just slides down(disconnect the electrical plug for the fan underneath). Don't disconnect the aircon condenser unless you want to regas it. But remove the nuts and the unit can be moved gently. The heater box is big and annoying but not impossible. Pop the bonnet and disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses, a small amount of coolant will dribble out. Then remove the 4 nuts holding it in place. There is also an electrical loom that runs across the unit which is held in place with a brace on the unit, just needs to be unscrewed and the loom can be moved away. The heater box can then be removed, but it's abit cumbersome trying to manouver it out because of the loom and the aircon box. Coolant will more than likely run out of the hoses as you move the unit, so have rags ready.
That's for that. But yea rust.
Attachment 36964
D/S rear seat point. Shouldn't be to bad just another thing on the list..
Yeah cut that shit out. All bits of rust were treated on my floor then I penetrolled the entire floor. This stuff just soaks into the metal and sticks and dries within 24 hours. Water just beads off it and it just made the dynamat stick so well!
Front passenger door done and also the rear door insides have also been done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...ps51a519af.jpg
@ Parksy did you only apply to plastic on door not the door skin itself