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Sounds like you have had a win.
Funny thing is I was looking at that relay last night in the wiring diagram but I couldn't see how it would cause your warning lights to stay on.
You need to make sure the battery/alternator warning light comes on in the dash now when then the ignition is turned on and the alternator is plugged in.
Yeah it's funny, I googled my symptoms last night and on another Troll forum a guy had the same problem, strangely enough he'd removed his carby and when it was reinstalled, the problem went away.
My original carby was removed in around June or July last year as I had the holley conversion done, but the problem only started when I changed the alternator. I wonder if perhaps when I went swimming the open connector got wet and shorted the relay out.
As long as everything else works with it disconnected, it's gone. I can't see why I'd need it as there's no choke, but the ignition part has me worried. Ill source a new relay just in case and make a plug for the female that should connect to the carby and that should be that.
Thanks for helping me through it mate, it's frustrating when something like this happens as there's no logic to it and doesn't make sense that it should happen.
I'm now officially, totally stumped.
New alternator fitted, new relay installed. Everything tight, checked and double checked, relay for ignition has been swapped around, no sparking, shorting, no drain when ignition off and no lights on when key turned off.
Turn key on, no battery light illuminates, start motor, no volts produced to battery. Checked the wire from alternator to the dual battery with motor running, zero, start battery has around 11.4 and 10 in aux battery.
I'm absolutely flummoxed now and don't know where to turn.
The battery light in the dash needs come on when you turn the ignition on for the alternator to start charging.
Do any of the other warning light come on, such as brake and oil when you turn the ignition on?
Would you like to give me a call?
Not sure if this has been mentioned but check your earth wires...
A bloke in our club was having funny issues similar to yours, did his head in as he check everything... What had happens was the earth wire had completely corroded inside the cover...
The give away was when he had the handbrake on and went to start it, sparks shot from the handle... It was shorting it out and welded the hand break on...
So replaced his earths, and handbrake and was all fine...
Fyi, if you look at this option, 25mm earth welding wire, $9/m from blackwoods...
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Yes the other warning lights come on but not the battery. I tested the white wire going into the alternator, 12v, tested the red wire coming out of alternator with motor running, 0v. I double checked the white/red wire with ignition switched off and it's 0v.
What the Red wire? is that the White with a Red trace?Quote:
Originally Posted by GQPorkroll
What voltage is the White with a Red trace wire, plug disconnected from the alternator, ignition on.
Thanks for the offer, Rod but ATM I haven't got my phone on me, I think I left it on charge at work and my home phone won't work where the cars are.
I noticed a heavy wire with a blown fuse so I'm going to replace that, but it seems to be something the previous owner fitted, I think it runs to the towbar for power in a camper trailer but at the moment I'm just clutching at straws.
Ive checked all fuses in the car, all good, can't see anything that could be the issue.
No I tested the heavy red batt wire, it's zero, and i tested the heavy white wire in the clip and it has 12v. I'm just about to test the white/red wire now with ignition on, it should have 12v shouldn't it?
Ok, ignition off, white wire 12v, on 12v. White/red off 0v on 12v
So the heavy red wire connects to the alternator via the nut? This should have battery voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQPorkroll
Originally this wire was white and would connect straight to the battery via a fusible link.
Can you see where this red wire goes to? does it go to that fuse you just found that is blown.
Are you able to post a picture of the wire connections at the back of the alternator and your battery isolator?
There should be a fuse or fusible link in this red wire. It could be near the battery or near the battery isolator.
Also make sure you haven't left any wires off the battery when you reconnected them.
Success of sorts.
That wire had been replaced by the previous owner, Rod, it goes to the dual battery system as two identically faded/sized wires run from the dual battery setup. They're in spaghetti tubing, one goes to the alternator, one goes off in a splice of wires, connectors, chewing gum, electrical tape, etc underneath the manifold. Can't see where it terminates.
However I took an alligator wire connector and placed one end on the battery and the other on the middle block of the dual battery system, turned the key on, the battery light comes on. Start the motor, 14.5 on the start side, 12.5 on the aux side.
It works. It's convinced me the dual battery system is shit and the pervious owner was dodger than a seventies car salesman and I will be replacing everything.
Thanks very much for all your help, Rod, it's been amazing. I can assure you that the truck will be fixed properly and I won't need to borrow from your brain again to this extent!!
No worries at all mate I enjoy the challenge.
I think it's a good idea to get an auto electrician to redo the wiring in the charge circuit and upgrade your isolator at the same time.