merry xmas pier're and happy new year to you and your family from mine cheers
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merry xmas pier're and happy new year to you and your family from mine cheers
Hi,
yesterday made some electrolysis on the left flange knuckle
http://imageshack.us/a/img839/9479/dsc0444ij.jpg
I will paint this part next saturday.
Best regards
Petit caillou.
Hi All,
I wish you a very happy new year, all the best for you and yours.
Best regards
Petit caillou.
Hi mate and Happy New Year to you as well. I hope you had a good holiday season? How's the re-build going?
Jas
Get a dog up ya mate!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hope you lot have had a good Xmas and survive the new year mate..
How long till your rig is back together?
Hello,
Friends of paint and broken bolt hello!
The end of year is finally well deserved holidays and the beginning of the year that began with leave also this rest period was put to use for ... working.
Disassembling the front to redo spheres pivot, change the oil seal from the bottom of bowl, rust, paint, rust, paint, ...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/2031/dsc0443vu.jpg
Grandmother is doing a good coffee!
http://imageshack.us/a/img84/1417/dsc0442cu.jpg
Again a thread that had the marmoset Mister tighten beyond the torque (Bravo! his big arms have taken over the cerebellum, luckily my little fingers are more intelligent than his biceps).
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/9436/dsc0457jc.jpg
Painting:
http://imageshack.us/a/img213/7509/dsc0488n.jpg
Dry:
http://imageshack.us/a/img525/6913/dsc0514ny.jpg
Passage of rust converter (transformer Julien rust) in the box:
Before:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/
After:
http://imageshack.us/a/img835/6687/dsc0511wl.jpg
Dismantling of optical mounts rust, paint, rust, paint ...
To paint is easy you need a gun (called a non original firecracker!), Saw my painting skills (paint bucket is planned where I am the best) I did not intend to pay the last gun Monet, searching on the web I found a briefcase with lots of things in it (for me things like question marks) for 39.50 delivered (there are investment), and many all these little merdouilles work very well for spreading the matte black (I have not tried the other colors). Wet (note I use technical terms now that I have THE briefcase!) Wet the Hammerite is a beautiful orange peel (ha that is missed :-( ((() and no, not once dry, bone dry (hey hey hey) this painting is taut ... the link to the gun case: http://www.tectake.fr/2-pistolets-de...-1-3-mm-0-8-mm
Painting the front wet:
http://imageshack.us/a/img441/2072/dsc0482qu.jpg
Painting the front dry:
http://imageshack.us/a/img685/7830/dsc0505yk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img849/7955/dsc0509ec.jpg
Painting optical media:
Before disassembly
http://imageshack.us/a/img707/8373/dsc0417wq.jpg
Wet
http://imageshack.us/a/img163/8416/dsc0485fx.jpg
Dry
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/6170/dsc0512dz.jpg
This is the adventure continues, the next step spheres and repair welding bodywork (will print some sport!).
Best regards
Petit caillou.
Keep them coming mate!!!!!!!
it happens it happens, I can see the horizon
Hey mate - love the posts and pics!
Jas
Wow indeed
Hi all,
here are some pictures :
http://imageshack.us/a/img685/8427/dsc0519q.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img837/8308/dsc0522g.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img834/397/dsc0533ov.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img339/8930/dsc0535fn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img248/2369/dsc0538fn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/9861/dsc0539eo.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img339/8950/dsc0550fj.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img812/8517/dsc0552g.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/1527/dsc0563d.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img829/8339/dsc0566wv.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/2459/dsc0567jy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img191/4034/dsc0571nb.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/3439/dsc0574f.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img803/5257/dsc0570oi.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img812/3096/dsc0543a.jpg
best regards
Petit caillou.
Thanks for the update mate..... she is coming along!!!
Err your steering wheel is on the wrong side mate... you might want to fix that!!!
Looks great, keep up the good work, cheers!
Great work!
Some parts looks like new genius parts and all of them looks much better than new china's analogs.
Amazing job! It will be better than new when you are finished.
Hello,
Today I propose a series of photos on the rehabilitation of the spheres. In effect, the corrosion had attacked the very surface of the bowl to prevent the wiper to get the rust and sand or other fine particles, it is necessary to make a sphere surfacing to remove oxidation and lead to a surface as smooth as possible, variations to this trick available as refills to the baguette welding or repairing ceramics with Loctite. Here are the steps:
Dismantling:
http://imageshack.us/a/img26/2719/39108483.jpg
observation:
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/8407/20870474.jpg
After a serious brush with wire brush on grinder:
http://imageshack.us/a/img195/7215/29311287.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img27/8812/43533972.jpg
Use of a product Sader (repair metal) findable in all stores "bricotruc"
http://imageshack.us/a/img40/3131/57127329.jpg
A first application:
http://imageshack.us/a/img689/6080/40351609.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img42/1894/43009643.jpg
Then allowed to dry for 12 hours.
Then hand sanding grit 80 and 180:
http://imageshack.us/a/img705/4907/73943598.jpg
After two or three assists in identifying many imperfections and letting it dry 12 hours and sanding between each pass we can proceed to final identification of the last pass.
The identification of imperfections is made using three complementary methods:
1 - to the eye, we see if there is direct visualization of hollow or looking at the profile of the sphere to see depressions.
2 - hand, we go hands on the ball and we noted the irregularities.
3 - blind, we pass the hand and fingers on the spheres eyes closed, after a touching moment grows, "we see very well with his hands."
with a pencil mark on the gradients to fill:
http://imageshack.us/a/img152/3803/17783515.jpg
and add more :
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/6592/83623639.jpg
12 hours drying and sanding at 180
http://imageshack.us/a/img835/3302/67764326.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/6507/38284172.jpg
It is therefore high time to prepare 3 to 4 times:
http://imageshack.us/a/img28/4351/84303175.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img145/248/13012938.jpg
Epoxy next time, but it will be new photos.
Best regards
petit caillou.
Thanks again mate.... interesting way of sorting out your little problem.
just read this thread after doing a search for something. All I can think of is WOW.
I have the tools and equipment to do all this but still not sure if I would attempt all you have hehe. Well done. Keep the updates coming.
Hello,
After a few spot welds and other festivities paint driveshaft and manufacturing brake hose, I attacked reassembly bearing pivots, oil seal bottom bowl half shafts and doors rockets:
http://imageshack.us/a/img820/9835/dsc0120aq.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img705/8677/dsc0121an.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img824/3320/dsc0123al.jpg
The fun continues!
Sincerely,
Petit caillou.
Coming along nicely Pierre, do you see light at end of tunnel yet??
I like your detail to work.
Hi Petit Caillou, Nice one - can I ask you a quick one please, I am rebuilding my MQ 160 Datsun Safari from the ground up too. Everything is stripped to the last bolt & nut, I am thinking of cold galvanising the chassis (paint brushing it on), after sanding it down to bare metal, what do you advise, I see you just painted it? Thanks and well done on the rebuild, it looks great. Rgds
Hi, me again, looking at your pics again, I was wondering, if you know if the MQ 160 and your Y60 chassis are exactly the same and will your front & rear axles complete fit my MQ 160 chassis? Thanks for your help friend
Prophet1 - they are differant you should have leaf springs on your truck. The y60 has spring towers - trailing arms etc - aslo the gear box & transfer are differnt. - it would be easier to do a body swap - but still a lot of work.
Anything can be doen dependant of parts you mechanical abilty and local vehicle rules.
Piere get job - the truck had a lot of age damage to begin with.
Hi prophet1,
Thank you for your message,
You have severals choise for the chassis.
you can remove the rust from the wire brush, spend a rust converter and paint,
You can do sand the frame, then apply a special metal paint
You can do sand the frame, apply an anti-corrosion epoxy powder + in the oven 450 degrees for 20 minutes, then an epoxy powder (for color cover) and then put in the oven 450 degrees for 20 minutes. (that's what I did for mine)
You can do the sanding frame and apply a cold galvanizing, galvanizing should be in a perfectly degreased metal. In general galvanizing requires Adobe crossing the room in baths. Hot dip galvanizing is not recommended because the temperature is about 800 ° and thermal deformation are important.
Best regards,
Petit caillou.
Hi Petit, love reading your thread. Am always a fan of build threads with lots of pictures. I'm just curious, what do you do for a living? You're a very knowledgable person with lots of good ideas!
Hello.
Fantastic build, I'm doing the same, but without the skill or knowledge :)
Hello,
Here's some news to attack the front axle.
As the heat shield brakes were in poor condition (rust perforating) and it cost a arm from the manufacturer I started with the idea of the remake, it was necessary to strap brains turn before reaching something coherent place in pictures:
Cut a sheet metal in a circle (this is the hardest)
http://imageshack.us/a/img526/2624/dsc0144ud.jpg
Copy the original:
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/1035/dsc0140yu.jpg
To the edge:
http://imageshack.us/a/img707/7568/dsc0153tn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/1063/dsc0146qy.jpg
Assemble and weld:
http://imageshack.us/a/img441/9458/dsc0147pr.jpg
Repeat 4 times:
http://imageshack.us/a/img29/5194/dsc0157hw.jpg
Try and adapt to the high temperature paint painting
http://imageshack.us/a/img33/3875/dsc0148oy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img198/9513/dsc0178wz.jpg
Then I attacked a chunk deoxidize wheel hubs, change disks and the inner and outer bearings, paint and implement:
http://imageshack.us/a/img189/7418/dsc0161io.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/5088/dsc0172rc.jpg
Disk mounted and protected for the painting:
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/1263/dsc0180gs.jpg
Removing rust and paint brake :
http://imageshack.us/a/img594/8314/dsc0182gc.jpg
And implementation:
http://imageshack.us/a/img854/5303/dsc0184wr.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img94/215/dsc0186xc.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img707/6595/dsc0187jd.jpg
That's all for now!
Sincerely,
Petit caillou.
Thanks again for the photos petit, great to see the detail of your work.
FanTapstic!
Great Job.............
Nice job! Looking great!
I forgot to ask earlier, how did you go replacing the swivel hub bearings and the front wheel bearings? Did you use a press or is it possible with a couple of sockets and a long thread through the middle with nuts on the end? Is this method even possible?
Hi Parksy,
I'll try to explain it clearly.
To remove the wheel bearings front axle, remove the bearing, then remove the bearing races by typing inside, all around, I use a hammer that weighs 1.5 kilograms and a copper rod (it deforms without scratching the hub body door).
To remove the bearing pivots up and down, you have two solutions:
The first is to use a hub hard (see this picture: http://www.lesexplorateurs.org/IMG/arton167.jpg)
The second: block square plate in a vise, remove the ball and cage type all around with a steel rod in the bearing bracket to the outside, but it's more difficult and you have to work regularly not to mark the media axis.
In all cases : use eye protection and gloves because the body of the bearing can break and send dangerous pieces.
I hope my translation is clear enough, not easy to explain these methods in English.
Hope it will help you.
Best regards
Pierre.
Thanks petit caillou! Very much appreciated! Wheel bearings seem very straight forwards.
The swivel bearings I'm still abit unclear but I can easily get that tool you pictured. Can you explain the process when using that tool? Does the top bearing come out from the top and bottom from the bottom? Ie does the bearing sit in a taper?
Hi Parksy,
Check the following link : http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/searc...x=0&submit.y=0
You will have some better explainations as my translation is not hundred per cent sure about certain specific names
for the bearing extractor, must hold the bearing with the bearing hooks of the extractor, while being checked on the axis of the pulling screw and the central portion which will put pressure on the central axis of the pivot bearing holder.
Hope it will help you ( not sure) may be try to find a local friend.
Best regards
Petit caillou.
Thanks petit, should have tried the search function earlier. Found a gold mine of info! Thanks for the explanation.
Salut l'ami !!
Je me permet d'écrire en français sur ce topic.
Je suis impressionné par tout ce travail, à vrai dire, c'est le genre de truc qui me fait ban... (entre autres ! :D)
Je suis moi même tombé amoureux d'un Ford Maverick Station wagon essence tb42s que j'ai acheté ici en Australie.
Je mets les mains dans le cambouis dès que je peux, j'épluche les forums, la doc technique mais j'ai besoin d'aide pour ma suspension.
J'ai un roof rack assez costaud en alu qui a ete modifie pour y monter une tente de toit, sur le reste du roof rack, j'ai 3 caisses remplies Et les anciens sieges arrieres.
dans la voiture jai installé un faux plancher pour pouvoir dormir.
Sous ce faux plancher jai un reservoir d'eau de 65 litres qui est au milieu de la voiture.
Je roule au lpg/gpl donc jai a la place du reservoir dessence arriere, un reservoir de gaz de 85 litres.
le probleme c'est que le vehicule est ultra flottant, on sent tout les defaut de la route, c'est super tape cul, quand tu appuies sur un coin de la voiture, elle va osciller, comme si elle flottait.
En principe jai un 2" lift kit dessus mais je n'en suis pas bien sur finalement.
mes shocks d'origine sont des old man emu nitro chargers.
je pensais qu'ils etaient hs, jai trouvé et monté des shocks d'origine quasi neuf de patrol gu mais ça n'a pas changé grand chose du coup je me demande si ce ne serait pas mes ressorts qui sont hs en fait.
qu'en penses tu ?
Je pense que j'ai plus de poids qu'ils ne peuvent supporter mais je ne sais pas par quoi les remplacer.
Si tu as une ou plusieurs piste pour un toulousain d'Australie ce serait chouette !
Bonjour Jujunini,
Merci pour ton message, belle description de ton installation, effectivement ton véhicule est bien chargé, je pense qu'il existe plusieurs solutions. Tout d'abord si tu ressent les bosses de la route je pense que des suspension sont HS, pas forcément à cause du kilométrage mais parce que ta charge et importante. Si tes ressorts sont HS normalement ton véhicule doit baisser de hauteur. la solution consiste à changer les ressorts pour des heavy Duty en 2", tu as plusieurs sortes de tarage pour les ressorts , tu peux faire une comparaison avec d'autres sur la hauteur de ton véhicule, pour voir s'il est vraiment plus bas à cause de la charge,...
Je sais qu'il existe aussi des amortisseurs à air comprimé, comme les amortisseurs de camions qui permettent de supporter des charges lourdes, tu peux regarder ici :
http://www.x2industries.com/aftermar...sion-c-76.html
Je suis sur qu'il existe des entreprises en australie qui vendent ces produits.
Entoure toi de professionnels pour te conseiller sur ces produits, les suspensions sont importantes pour avoir de bonnes réactions au freinage.
Cordialement,
Petit caillou.
Bonne chance