looks good mate
nice mods
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looks good mate
nice mods
Heres some pics on my 3rd trailer [present] Built upside down for most parts.
Hindsight which I have in spades I would have put the battery box up the back not the front like I did.
No biggie,
This is my 3rd trailer, I have access to a service body Which I may make a trailer from it ,not sure yet
The draw bar has another piece that runs nearly the entire length.
Also the draw bar had heaps of tabs welded to it for any additional boxes I want to fit
I powder coated GQ Ti mags, the extra cab is another I made and sold
FYI I used two sheets of 1/8th alloy checker plater in the build
Painted the frame charcoal hammer tone
I just love making things
Im putting pics here for another member to view, scored these two tanks, they appear out of date,
Any ideas on what to use them for other than testing and scuba diving Id like to hear.
Im thinking these will hold a heap of air. I think they are made from alloy
Smoker, bbq, little fire, rather large anal plugs Etcetera Etcetera Etcetera
Hard to tell what size they are from the pics, could be 12 and 10 litres as they are the most common sizes. Should be some size info just above the start of the curve. Try a magnet to see if they are steel, if steel they may be able to be re-certified. It all depends on the condition inside, outside doesn't really matter and I've seen worse than that on dive boats. They can take a bit of a hammering as long as the valve is fine. If alloy then don't even bother to try and get them tested.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
If no one comes up with a better idea for them Clunk would probably take them off your hands as he seems to have a use for them. ;)
Why the difference for the alloy tanks?
latest stamp on the larger one is 08 and the smaller is 04
They are a risk of exploding while being filled, most stores won't fill them even if they are 'in test' date. Check this link:Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
https://www.worksafe.qld.gov.au/news...lloy-cylinders
Bummer ,at least the valve on top is worth something.
Might cut it in half long ways for some water dishes for the dog. lol
My awning light just arrived, its a Kawell 18watt 60 degree beam spread.
It will be hard wired with a dimmer and remote control as well.
Die cast alloy body so very robust IMO cant wait to mount it,
about 200mm long
hi mateQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
did you forget that you posted this same thing in two other places
Yeah I know that One for my build thread one for "what did you buy"
And one for my roofrack thread all good lol
He's just really, really, really....... really excited for his lightQuote:
Originally Posted by Oldmate1
Little things please little minds hahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
I thought you had to have a specific led for them to be dimmable? Most leds will work between 6 and 36 volts. Others will work in a smaller ranger but they are either on or off.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
We'll see in time I suppose, most other LEDs I have been able to dim even ones with a driver
You do need dimmable LEDs.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Most LEDs are dimmable though, but the drivers for them are not.
changed my glow plugs happy with that, problem is now there is a problem with boost.
Ive either crimped the hose or its leaking somewhere, easy fix ,
again just need the weather on my side.
I brought all new hose with spring loaded clamps with tee's so
good time to re-do the Dawes and needle valve
Time to update new glow plugs fitted and now the Patrol starts first kick very happy.
Also fitted some switches to the centre console more to come later, little bit of running
around in the morning then Ill cut all the other holes and fit the switch mounting blocks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yep it’s the driver which determines if they are dimmable or not. I just bought a bunch of 240v LED downlights for our shed dwelling. They are both dimmable 100% to 3%, 16w with 180 degree light spread & also colour changeable with stepless adjustment between 2700k (warm white) to 6000k (cool white). Dimming & colour changing is done with a remote control which can control up to 4 groups of lights containing 1 to 10 lights each. They work really well & the warm white is just like an incandescent light, not a crappy yellow like some. At $26 each they are great value & the remote .... a whopping $11.
Did I miss something? I thought you’d done a head & were talking motor replacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I patched it with some head repair goo, gives me some time to figure out what to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
ATM goes as well as before, no overheating, fingers crossed,
3rd switch installed, now to wire them, lol
the Light bar is wired,and very easy to reach
locker is easiest to reach so happy there.
Compressor will be on most the time for air horn
and latter my front Pro-locker
Also does anyone know where the indicator wires are and what colours for left and right,
do they run along the left or right step plate
Didn't you wear your glasses when cutting the holes John? Crooked as mate!
thought you had a no hole policy with your Pootrol?
Yeah should of cut all of them at the same time can tweak them a bit .Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
care factor slowly dropping Im afraid lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Re-positioned the Cruise Control indicator light to the pillar pod.
I hate auto electrical stuff, piss' me for some reason
A loom can go up in the blink of an eye if you get it wrong eh smoke everywhere ha ha
The funny bit is my sons an Auto lekky
Saw these they also do them for the S4 on as well. IMO only good for occaisional things
but a good use of waisted space
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GU-Patrol...oAAOSwgkRVU-Pv
Next job is remove the main battery volt meter and replace it with a double carling mounting frame.
Ill exchange the volt meters as dont really need an AUX batt gauge as I have one in the cargo area.
The main battery gauge will be enough to let me know if the alternator is playing up along with any
dash lights lol,
Im thinking these will house my DRL switch and winch power switch, still in arms reach
Ha Ha you're so funny welcome back LOL
only fitting 9 extra 3 on the centre dash ,,,3 on the console,,
and 3 near the hand brake when I get the panels laser cut
Better put a pic here so I have a reference point,
so 12v ,,clock and water gauge all wired up.
I was wary of digital gauges because of the "flicker factor"
but I have not noticed it at all. these gauges are not over powering
at night and very readable during the day. The triple pod is covered
in the same material as the dash mat and secured with sticky back velcro tape.
Now Ill fit a double carling insert in the area where the round
Baintech volt gauge used to be. pic to follow
WOW had to do a lot of digging to find this lol
Need to put pics of my new Rasslar bar, recommend it
one to everyone.
Also had some BFGs ATkos fitted 285sx16 great tyre imo
DOH forgot to show this,,, its the self opening option that rasslar offer
open the small door then just flick the black lever on the big door like normal
easy peasy, plus like the way they use 4 bolts to secure the wheel not three like normal.
it also has a provision for a light pole,
That's a great looking rear bar John, one day maybe???
I went to Rasslar a while back and they canned that idea. Must have been after you bought your bar. They said they were having complaints about the barn doors cracking, like they would with a heavy tire on the back. Its due to the pulling on the door skin from the swing away. Still a bloody good idea though, I hate the way mine is now, without that contraption.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
@ mudski I think I paid for my bar about june last year.
my mate at OUTBACK 4WD picked it up for me,
then had them fit it in March this year.
I hardly ever use the back these days, but will when
we are able to go fishing.
Ill keep an eye on things though , thanks