A Guide on installing your own remote central locking in under 20 minutes

ebay job mate "crimefighter brand". I really only wanted something to replace central locking with an audible alert. I wont be using most of the features of this, but for $40, cant go wrong LOL.

I just hope the wiring I have above is correct...

If its not correct if wont work.. Looking at the door lock/unlock wires it seems you have got it right. The 12v feed wire you have it on Yellow. I would say it goes to the red. And not to use the relay. The relay is for the shock sensors etc etc so when you turn the ignition off it activate the relay to disable the shock sensor. The indicators are correct.

well I have tried and isnt working.....Wired as above, but with red wire as posative instead of yellow (originally a typo).

I can see the wire on the central locking getting a positive feed when locking, but it aint locking the door.....

Any suggestions...PLEASE??

Thanks

looking through other threads, should the original plug that was to the factory keyless entry be earthed via black wire????

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Originally Posted by shaun100

looking through other threads, should the original plug that was to the factory keyless entry be earthed via black wire????

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Worth a try I suppose.??

Got it sorted. There were a couple of wires on alarm central locking that needed to be earthed. Now another problem. Theres a blue wire on alarm that needs a negative signal from the door. I pulled out the door switch and they are positive?? The alarm wants to rearm 20 or so seconds after I unlock and open the door, and Im guessing its because its not getting the neg signal from door light. Any suggestions guys? Thanks

Hmm sorry. Im out on this part. Hopefully one of the guru's will pop their head in. @Yendor @the evil twin . That might grab their attention.

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Originally Posted by shaun100

Got it sorted. There were a couple of wires on alarm central locking that needed to be earthed. Now another problem. Theres a blue wire on alarm that needs a negative signal from the door. I pulled out the door switch and they are positive?? The alarm wants to rearm 20 or so seconds after I unlock and open the door, and Im guessing its because its not getting the neg signal from door light. Any suggestions guys? Thanks

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The interior door light switches are negative switched. Try opening and closing one of the other doors when checking the drivers door switch.

Thanks Rodney...
What rims you have too mate? Sorta look like the Dick Cepek DC2's. Been contemplating splashing out on some.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Thanks Rodney...
What rims you have too mate? Sorta look like the Dick Cepek DC2's. Been contemplating splashing out on some.

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Wasp

http://www.alliedwheels.com.au/produ...lack-machined/

I know it's an old thread - but it is still relevant. Finally got sick of the crappy Nissan remote entry system which has worked off and on (mainly off) for some time now. Purchased a Jaycar Steelmate remote entry module ($49.95) and with some of the information available here wired the new module into the Patrol in a couple of hours.

The new module fits inside the original Nissan case and fits back into the original position under the dash. I cut the connector off the PC board, soldered it into the new loom and the new module plugs into the original Nissan harness.

Now it works first time every time.

Should have done it ages ago.

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Originally Posted by BillsGU

I know it's an old thread - but it is still relevant. Finally got sick of the crappy Nissan remote entry system which has worked off and on (mainly off) for some time now. Purchased a Jaycar Steelmate remote entry module ($49.95) an with some of the information avaiable here wired the new module into the Patrol in a couple of hours.

The new module fits inside the original Nissan case and fits back into the original position under the dash. I cut the connector off the PC board, soldered it into the new loom and the new module plugs into the original Nissan harness.

Now it works first time every time.

Should have done it ages ago.

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Yep something that I still need to do..

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by mudski

Note this is for replacing the defunked genuine Ni$$san unit with a Warlock KG400 kit.
This was all done on my 2001 GUII, 3.0ltr. Different models and engines may differ.

All was done directly where the original wireless remote controller sits. Under the LHS of the dash, to the right of the glove box.
No need to run any other wire to anywhere else. Also the locks are positive triggered too. The kit I bought, and assuming all are like this, has the wiring for both positive and negative triggers.
So the coloured wires to look out for are :

• Indicator output : Green/ Red
• Indicator output : Green / Yellow
• 12V feed : White / Red (Thicker wire than the others)
• Door Lock output : Light Blue (Thicker wire than the others)
• Door Unlock output : Light Blue / Red (Thicker wire than the others)

The kit you buy will have instructions telling you what their wires are for so that part is real easy. It was working it out on the truck end, but I got it and it works a treat.
So all can be done and installed in the one spot and after I worked out the wiring, you could do this in under 20minutes, easy.
Now I just have to figure out how to learn the spare remote. The instructions I have are in Klingon I reckon.
Hope this helps anyone.
All I want to do now is work out what I can use the trunk release button for. Remote switching flood lamps maybe?

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Pulled it all apart.
My wires are differant colour.
Any help please.
I have a 2006 Patrol 3L diesel.
Thanks
Hocks

Sorry - can't help you there. My colours were identical to Mudski's. You would have to look up wiring diagrams and work out where your colours are different.

Hi all, Newby here, not so much to 4wd's or mechanical, but i do fall short when it comes to electrical. I always come back here for info on any patrol issue, and i've never even realized i could join lol...... let alone how many other people have or had the same issue and found help here. So here i am, i do have a question which after reading every thread for days solid, seems more complicated....... Sorry to those who have heard this before, but even so, not 1 thread here has actually helped solve my issue, So i registered and here I am.

I have a gq on steroids, but my issue is with my 1999 gu tb45 st wagon, manual. and here it is lol..... and its central locking. Allot of threads tell me gu series 2 or after have the module under the dash board and that's probably right, but a 1999 gu st does not. A thread here show pics of plugs and wiring, but are completely different to mine. My gu has central off the drivers doos switch, and i'm trying to fit a jay car keyless entry steel mate 386M.

Again sorry, there is a heap of threads on this perticular unit, but nothing that actually helps for mine. Has anyone out there ever had the same issue? fitted the same unit? can help with what i need to do? is it just a 5 wire actuator i need? I can build houses, trailers, but this is doing my head in lol.
Please help!!!

Your wont have factory remote central locking. So, i think, there wont be a control module. Its all controlled by the master switch, I believe. Their will be a way to do it. Using the new keyless control unit to activate the master is what you need it to do I think. The other doors should just follow suit.

I'm not sure about the unit you have, but if you just put a remote controlled actuator on the drivers door lock, it will control the rest just as if you had turned the key in the door.
This is the setup I have in my GQ.

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Hi All. Anyone had to reprogram the remote on a Warlock KG400 replacement kit after replacing the key battery? Not sure if you should have to but mine no longer responds after battery died. Is there a learn button or a key/ignition learning sequence? Cannot find the original kit instructions. The key Led's now work and the spare key still works fully so the system seems OK.