The last 2 screws in the ignition barrell are 1 way screws,they fit them in,then break the heads of
Get a flat blade screwdriver,or a chisel , whatever you have and tap em around to loosen
Thats how they come out
Good thorough pics
Printable View
The last 2 screws in the ignition barrell are 1 way screws,they fit them in,then break the heads of
Get a flat blade screwdriver,or a chisel , whatever you have and tap em around to loosen
Thats how they come out
Good thorough pics
I'm so glad they made things easy for me..looks like I'm gunna have to shell out the BIG bucks and go down to Supercrap and buy a cold chisel..hopefully my grinder doesn't get too upset LOL
You don't need a cold chisel, justa worn flat blade screwdriver ground to fit will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiemale
Tim
Hang on Tim, are actually telling a male NOT to buy a tool that he may not need????
That few bucks will come in handy for some fuel my man..............Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiemale
Tim
Have a funny feeling that by the time I actually get the project on the road we'd of run of of fossil fuels lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiemale
Youll be right, just do a bit at a time,youll get there
I spend probably over 2 years doin my ute here and there, now just as it nears completion (its driveable none the less) it has to go to someone else
But as i bleed nissan blood,im starting another project , a shorty,not for road use and wont take 2 years, givin myself a month or so,just getting the parts organised,thats a rumage threw the parts shed
Yeah I know that, actually don't mind how long it takes as do have a ball playing with hammers, grinders etc.
Well, every 2nd week I have a 3 day w/end and that's when I play in the man-cave with my girls.
Girls bit hard this w/end!!
Crowned myself on the red body's roof so friggen took the grinder to it to give me more head room, now only crown myself on the garage roof LOL.
Took 3 LONG days to undo ONE friggen body-chassis bolt (one of the rear ones), must of used at least a can of WD40, 2 packs of band-aids and only have a lil bit of skin left on the knuckles.
I'm going to hold a "working bee" around at my home with beer and bbq (after the job is done) of removing the red body and sending that to the scrapman, removing the silver body and off to a panelbeater to work his magic.
Hopefully by the time of the bbq/beer/bee I'd sold the SD33T and it's running gear so when the red body goes to the scrapman, can add the chassis of the silver one.
Questions time for the gurus (Finley, Mad, Tank)
How do you seperate the fuel filler pipe from the body so that when I raise the body it doesn't try to follow it?
There are two bolts (on top) that attach a bracket (that the alternator bracket is attached to) to the engine. How the hell do you undo them?? I am strong, but damn, even WD40, X-tire iron for added leverage, banging it with a small hammer and no movement.
The MQ has a single rear seat that tips forward, where's the MK has a bench seat that folds forward. The single seat set up clips into a raised bracket on the wheel well which is not on the MK, is that bracket just spot welded into place and would it be just a case of drilling out the spot welds, or will it be better to cut the whole thing out and weld it on the MK wheel well?
Thats it for now LOL
Here are the related photosQuote:
Originally Posted by aussiemale
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00280438.jpg
latch for the tip forward rear seat, as you can see on a raised mount on the wheel well..
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00280439.jpg
and you can see here the raised mount is missing
The rear wheel arch seating mount is just spot welded onto the wheel arch, drill out the spot welds ,and presto its off
Depending on your road laws, changing seating capacity from whats stated on the VIN plate entails a mod plate over here,check your laws before doin it
The seat with no brackets is a 2 seater style seat, the seat with brackets should be a 3 seater type seat,unless you really,really have to swap the seats dont bother
Fuel filler pipe, inside the fuel door is a few bolts, undo them ,that attaches the fuel pipe to the body,pull it away from the body somehow to remove body, failling that, undo the fuel pipe/pipes from the tank , then when new body is fitted reattach,dont forget if doin it this way, you stuff a rag or something in the tank to stop stuff falling in
The bolts your having issues with,throw a pic up .....
Thanks MQ, unfortunately didn't get a good shot of the silver one, this does have brackets, it's higher up on the body. The rear bench seats hook onto it, it's the set up where you raise the seat part forward against the drivers seat, then unclip the bracket clip (you must love my descriptions) and the back of the seat tips forward and slots down behind the the seat you've just raised. meaning it's level from the back of the vehicle to the drivers seat.
With the mods I'm doing, going to need a cert anyway just working out what I want and/or can do.
Thanks for the tips on the fuel tank, will have a gander on Sunday.
Bolts are no longer an issue, have removed them, just have to wait a couple of weeks until the skin grows back LOL
Ok, how this has me stumped, have tried a socket set, wheel brace and these two bolts will not move, even tried tapping the brace with a hammer, any advice would be greatly appreciated
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/...u/00080454.jpg
Do you need this part on your petrol engine ???
If not dont bother with it,its on the diesel engine
Rattle gun? If not available some heat would help. Also trying giving the head of the bolt a sharp tap with hammer then try and undo.
Selling off the diesel to fund my project and have had a couple of offers for the turbo and one for just the engine. Splitting it will mean more coins to spend. Need to remove that bracket so I can remove the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by MQ MAD
Don't own a rattle gun but will try the heat, will also try tapping the bolt, haven't done that yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
If you have a good running turbo diesel engine,its worth more complete and running rather than turbo less
Sell the turbo and gear of it, the rest aint worth scrap,sell it complete mate youll get more for it
hey bryan just read your thread itll be cool as, but be warned old nissans are a disease hahaha , but the l series rock, whilt i have a diesel here in aus for obvious reasons , all sorts of cool stuff can be done to an l series , ill post a pic of my l20b in my last project the bluebird....http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...assin/2842.jpg.....
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...assin/2852.jpghttp://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...assin/2862.jpg, i built all the efi, except for modified twin su manifold i mounted too, the quad coil ignition and the plenum is all stainless(desigined and built in my shed) with an ef falcon throttle body and tps,all controled by a microtec mtx8 .... this thing was nuts good for 7500rpm and about 240kph! pulled like a demon in 3rd at 140kph and averaged 9 l per 100km , just food for thought...
oh friggen brilliant Ian..just what I need..someone to encourage me!! Will direct all the handbrakes abuse your way thank you very much...love the shiny things. The tech stuff well above my skill set though, hell some of the things you were saying i know the words singularly but in the sentences you were saying was all gobblygook to me LOL. Got my 1st twitch on the fishing line in reference to someone interested in buying the SD33T engine so hoping like hell it comes through, all progress relies on that sale. Funds from that will go to the engine rebuild, running gear I'm hocking off will pay for the panel beater fixing the rust and the odds and ends on the body.
This upcoming weekend is my 3day w/end so will do more cutting, slashing and bloodletting and will post the photos. Project is now at the stage that she has as much of my skin as I have
Not much done since my last post, been too friggen cold, wet and has absolutely no bearing on the fact I've got myself a Homebrew kit!!!
A lot of my project depends on selling the parts off the diesel to fund the other so if there are any kiwi's on have a set of 33x12.5r15, SD33T and also some 24volt odds and ends on Trademe. OR..If there is someone with that has a lot of spare money and have no idea where to throw it away..PM ME lol
Love the thread mate. I am about to embark on an MK project myself with the 4L L28 petrol engine. Will make a thread similar to this one but its threads like this and Michelle's thread that are making me look forward to the project and inspire me to finish it haha. Keep up the good work mate and i'll be following this thread to the end... but hey we all know that projects never really end!
Thanks Jack, tis going to be a long wait for the end!! next couple of weeks I'll be hooking in and cleaning/sanding/grinding the interior down to bare metal for the panel beater to take over fixing the rust and tidying up the roof part.