Hi guys sorry
One more thing
Where can I buy this temp sensor that's accessible once the pan has Been removed
Cheers!
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Hi guys sorry
One more thing
Where can I buy this temp sensor that's accessible once the pan has Been removed
Cheers!
I think you have to buy a genuine Nissan temp sensor, but taslucas would be able to tell you for sure, as he bought a new one very recently.
A good suggestion for this sort of thing was to get a sewing pin and stick it through the wire you want to test. I managed to do it with the point of a test light recently but it wasn't easy. Wish I'd read the pin idea before I did it the hard way.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Hi mate, I had to get a genuine temp sensor from Nissan. It took two weeks to arrive and was about $110. Make sure you know exactly which one your after as there are two in each box and theres about 10 different ones depending on the year etc. They ordered the wrong one for me so i had to wait another two weeks. Also, their computer system said that there was only one temp sensor in my box, you could see the one i needed on the screen but when they clicked on it,the system said that it was not elligible for my car! (even with the VIN put into the computer). They emailed Nissan Head quaters and sorted it out.
P.S. Todd might like to move this thread to the Engine and drivetrain section under the sub-section of gearboxes
Taslucas
I am watching keenly because my box won't stay locked either. I put a gu engine into a zd30 gu auto that was working fine so I know it is nothing inside the box. It must be a tps or external something??
Owen.
Yeah I've replaced just about everything so far! Mine locks/unlocks rapidly. If I drive it for a while it'll start off fine, then slowly get worse (locking/unlocking) until it gets to the point where it won't lock and just stays in 4th.Quote:
Originally Posted by PattyWgnOwen
Tap, crackle, pop
I have a theory!!!!! And yes, someone else told me !!! lmao
I'm going to run an earth strap from the box to the chassis direct - apparently this is prevalent in many other cars but not on mine ... getting the wiring covered in water, mud and crud over time has the ability to play with it as such, and apparently the solenoid lockup voltage is similar to the dizzy module only needing around 5 volts with only a mild change to this (plus or minus 10%) being able to cause issues ...
It's a wild one, but I'm going to try it and let you know ...
My shudder whilst cold is not the TC as it turns out - its the seal. When cold, it's letting oil through until it heats up and expands - hence only shuddering when cold due to loss of oil pressure ... hopefully that simple, and again, I'll let you know so all the info is on this thread ...
Still ... I LOVE my auto!!!!
F yeah, I'll give that a go!
Also, which seal are you talking about? The TC shaft seal?
Tap, crackle, pop
Ahhh the old not getting earth trick...
Damn those rubber mounts eh!
That doesn't sound right for a GQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrig
Page 66 of the AT service manual says terminal 22 (torque lock-up) of the TCU should be between 8 and 15 volts when the converter locks, and 1V or less when it's not locked.
The earth strap might still help though.
Hmmmm ... thanks mate ... that in itself may explain the problem. Getting a voltage drop maybe? As I'm sure it was 'measured' with the lockup switch selected and it was only around 5 volts?? Need to confirm this though ...Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper