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Don’t believe the hype, radiators by nature, depending on usage needs do need a perfect water balance of time off to cool versus flow demand.Quote:
Originally Posted by YeatyGU
Honestly have seen/helped on trips mountain built trucks suffer hard on long beach duress distance stretches [emoji22]
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First thing I’d do it get it dyno tuned. Properly. Then work from there. I ran a triple core copper/ brass radiator. Then a alloy one and now I run a genuine radiator with the same results.
Twin thermos might not be pulling enough air too.
If getting hot at high speed first thing to my mind was air flow. Or lack there of.
Make sure you have a good seal from the radiator support panel to radiator. Very important. If not a lot of the air flow will simply hit the radiator and get pushed out and around, and not go through the radiator.
Check the water pump. Stat is good I assume. Blocking the bypass I don’t think will help. And as MB said. Make sure both radiator and a/c condenser are free of any crud build up.
But getting it tuned first to make sure it’s not over fuelling.
Has it a stock injection pump?
How old are the injectors too?
Lots and lots of factors could be in play here.
I had big issues with mine. I’ve done pretty much everything known to man too keep mine cool. Is pretty good now….
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Thanks mate, yes standard injector pump and I’m doubtful it’s dumping to much fuel, I wound back the pump a few months ago. I could change it back to a viscous fan set up today, just wouldn’t have the radiator shroud, will definitely look into the seal either side of the radQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Get it tuned. Could just be a bad tune for all we know. Who knows if the previous owner had played with pump timing also. New decent injectors are cheap too. Maybe look at swapping them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by YeatyGU
No-one has asked what sort of speeds (& what revs you are pulling) when you are 'highway cruising'. My view is that these are great old donks, but if you try to drive them like a modern vehicle you would be asking for trouble. On the basis of my experience as close to stock & moderate speeds are best for TD42's.
The fact the previous owner put 35's & a 3" lift says a lot, every chance other things will be in a non standard state. Even running 35's & driving like it was a modern car could well be enough to get the symptoms you have.
Assuming it's turboed? Factory or after market.
Stock exhaust?
FWIW our Patrol runs at 80° to 90° most of the time, running heavy & towing - rarely go above 100kph though, often 80kph to 90kph. Rarely go above 3000rpm. Long steep climbs can get it up over 100° if I don't use the lower gears, slowing down & keeping the revs up.
Get rid of teh Electric fans mate. they dont work on the TD. Go back to a Viscous Fan. As mentioned by Stropp the UFI Fan and Hub upgrade is worthwhile. QuikAzz also do the fan and hub upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by YeatyGU
Are you just replacing the water pump with a factory OEM unit or going to an upgraded unit? If you are buying an OEM unit then consider the alternatives.
How many kms on the motor? What year is teh car? Do you know if it has been tuned? does it run an Intercooler? Top or Front? Do you have a Boost Guage and what is the Boost set at please
FIXED~ so after everyone’s great advice and help I replaced the water pump to find the old one was fine anyway. I put the 35’s and 3” lift in it to suit some of the harder touring tracks here in newzealand. The solution was as simple as doing away with the custom radiator shroud and electric fans and putting a viscus hub and fan back on it, I don’t have a shroud for it yet but even without i couldn’t get it over 83 degrees.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
1999 GU patrol, long wheel base factory turbo td42 automatic. Factory pump and turbo running 12psi
Thanks team 👍
Auto! That is a pretty rare thing mate and likely not factory. Either the Auto or the Td probably didnto come in that car. I couod be wrong but that is rare as rockinghorse poo.Quote:
Originally Posted by YeatyGU
Glad you got things sorted. Chase donw a radiator Cowling, you need this.
Also, do you avhe a Pyro Guage measuring the EGTs mate? You need this. It is very important on a TD mate. Note also, and being an Auto this could be even more compelling. a TD does not like 2000rpm. It s abit of a trough mate. Cruising at 2000rpm you will find it is labouring and will spike EGTs and it will get hot.
Fiting a Pyro guage, fitting a Boost Controller and having it tuned will help a lot. 12psi is a pretty safe setting which is great, jsut wathc that 2000rpm line mate, its a killer.
Have a read of this https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/ae...0#post-7135589.
This is one thing that people seem to forget, I have 2 Trolls GQ TD42Ti Dual Cab - GU TD42Ti Wagon both fitted with 12mm pumps both outputting north of 220Hp on 35" and both don't over heat.
None of this after market pumps fans etc... just making sure the original cooling system is working the way it was designed, the only mods done are all in that thread, without air nothing is going to help.