weird noise

I will tackle the bearing on Sunday. Any advice on whats required to change it out?

Hi Harry,

1) Undo the bolt in the centre of the clutch plate on front of the A/C compressor (you can just see this in Tony first photo) the easiest way to do this is leave the drive belt on and supply power to the A/C compressor, this will engage the clutch and stop the compressor from turning.

2) Remove drive belt, now if you are lucky you can remove the clutch plate (not the pulley at this stage) with a bit of LIGHT prying with a couple of screw drivers (you do not want to bent or distort clutch plate) if this method doesn't work you will need to use a pulley puller, you should see three threaded holes in the clutch plate where you can connect your puller. Warning when removing clutch plate there may or may not be some shims behind it, don't loose these they will need to go back in when refitting.

3) Remove circlip, now once again if you are lucky you may be able to remove the A/C pulley and bearing by pulling it forward, if not then you will need to use a pulley puller again.

4) Once the pulley is off, turn it over and remove second circlip.

5) Press old bearing out and press in new bearing.

6) Refit in reverse order, make sure circlips are locked in place and don't forget shims.

Cheers Rodney

Thanks Rodney, I haven't had the chance to get to this yet and will be at work until Monday. Thanks again for the detailed instructions. I'll post again after I have completed the job

Well the job is finally complete and it worked out eventually. I snapped the bolt in the top piston for the belt tensioner when I was nearly done. What a nightmare and some how I found a spare on the Eylandt. The truck sounds new, I even fixed the winch. (new motor and grease) Thanks heaps for the great posts and pic's they definitely helped me through the process. I just want to point out that the 2000 GU has a different setup to the 2004 in regards to the support bracket for the compressor and belt tensioner piston bracket. The 2000 is a two piece and the 2004 is a one piece. I just thought I'd add this as this was the case for me and thought people might like to know. Thanks again to everyone

I am having similar noise problems. It is a squealing noise on start up and last a minute or so. Finally tracked it don to the belt tensioner. (I hope) The bushes look a little dodgy and the belt seams to be too loose, hence the noise. (I am guessing) I also noticed with the engine running the long sections of belt seem to be flapping a little. I am thinking or replacing the complete assembly and hoping the noise problem is fixed.

x2 on the belt tensioner, not a big $$$$$ fix, also alternator pulley bearing it has a clutch, basically anything that spins, eliminate them one by one

I got quoted $360 for a complete belt tensioner (including ram) from Nissan. They don't sell the pulley separately.

Removed the belt tensioner pulley and took it down to repco and got a replacement pulley and bearing for $60.

Didn't stop the noise though!!

Reckon it's the A/C pulley so will replace that next.

Good advice above Rod.

Cheers,

Steve

This is the ZD30 belt config out of the parts book at Repco. Might be handy for someone.

Attachment 18726

What is the bearing number for air con pully mine is shot

I recently did mine, just rang a bearing shop and gave them the number off the original bearing. As soon as I read it to him he asked if it was for an A/C compressor so must be fairly common.