Rear Diff issues

sure did .. engine idle .. running for several minutes ... maybe i need to creep forward for it to engage .. ?? just didnt want to do it on a hard surface .. might try when down the beach next

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Originally Posted by timbo2410

sure did .. engine idle .. running for several minutes ... maybe i need to creep forward for it to engage .. ?? just didnt want to do it on a hard surface .. might try when down the beach next

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Engaging the diff lock on a hard surface ia fine for testing mate. Running up and down the road will not harm it in any way.... Just Don't Turn. ;)

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Originally Posted by timbo2410

sure did .. engine idle .. running for several minutes ... maybe i need to creep forward for it to engage .. ?? just didnt want to do it on a hard surface .. might try when down the beach next

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As mudrunner said, test engaging in your drive way is ok while wheels are straight, but you need to move a bit for everything to line up and engage. Until it engages, the difflock dash light will flash and become solid once its engaged.
Same is true when unlocking. You will more than likely need to be moving and off the throttle, and the dash light wont go out until it has fully disengaged.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

metal in the diff oil is not that big a deal to be honest if it is just minor filings. Normal wear and tear given the diff oil is likely 100,000kms old or whatever. The filings are likely from the Crown Wheel and Pinion nad and elocker will not swap that problem out. f you ahve never used the factory diff lock then there is little point spending 2K fitting a Elocker to Not use that either.

If the pinion gerar is not droning then forget about it. f you are really concerned you could have the 3rd member (the diff) dropped out and inspected and giving a clear health. At that point you might put in a new crown whel or pinion if needed but then put it back together and drive on mate.

If you really want to spend 2K i can help you spend it wisely. Fridge, Slider, Drawers, Roof rack, Winch, Suspension, Not an E Locker. (for you).....

I am a big fan of lockers but you are not using the one you have.. I blew up my rear diff last year and had it rebuilt with New gears and Bearings. the only thing they kept was the housing. it cost me $1650 and i fitted it myself. I had the LSD retained and rebuilt. The Patrol rear LSD is a Beast mate. I run an ARB AirLocker in the front and rear LSD only. Great setup.

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Agree 100% with Muddy. I drained the oil from my old GQ diffs and there was a 5+mm mountain of fillings on the drain plugs. I flogged that car and the diffs never failed

Only way I could tell whether my e-locker (front) was engaged when I first got it was to try turning (in a grass paddock ). Steering was heavier.:) No sound that I could hear. Just the switch illuminated. No idea about the factory locker on the rear, but surely someone here must know if the blinking light is the correct indicator (or if the light should be 'solid') ....... or are factory lockers a rarity?