So what's the purpose of the threaded rod that goes from behind the clutch pedal somewhere into the firewall. It appears to have a lock nut, some thread, and also a 'grippy' section for what one would assume pliers to turn it.
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So what's the purpose of the threaded rod that goes from behind the clutch pedal somewhere into the firewall. It appears to have a lock nut, some thread, and also a 'grippy' section for what one would assume pliers to turn it.
Mark your starting position and try adjusting it.
There is a measurement for that adjustment. I think the rod needs to be 114mm or something if my memory is serving me correctly.
Found some measurements in the Haynes Manual. Clutch pedal Hieght 202 to 212 mm. Freeplay 1-3mm. Stop lamp .3mm to 1mm.
The Factory manual states that the 202 to 212 mm is from the surface of the sloped metal floor to the top of the pad. The freeplay is the total of the pin and clevis and the piston and push rod combined. Adjust pedal height with the pedal stopper. Adjust freeplay with the master cylinder push rod or clutch booster input rod and then tighten lock nut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Thanks for that mate. Does the manual say whether the input rod can be spun, or do I need to pull the pedal off so I can rotate the section at the end of the rod that joins the pedal?
And when you say freeplay, that is from when you apply pressure to the pedal to when the rod starts moving?
By the looks of it, I would try and undo the pin and nut, adjust it then put it all together. PITA but I wouldn't be moving the piston for fear of creating a leak. Yep the freeplay is as you said.
Thanks. I'll have to remove the clutch pedal itself to adjust then. I tried last night, but the slide section that goes over the pedal (that the pin then goes through) is too long to turn with the pedal there.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Thanks mate.
Tried adjusting it, no joy, still slipping. I pulled the bung out of the bellhousing, no oil or liquid came out so don't think it's contaminated. Didn't bleed the slave, but I would think that would make it harder to change gear, not make the clutch slip?
Anyone know the going rate for a clutch changeover on a gq including flywheel machine and change the rear main seal? Anything else that should be done whilst it's apart? Would prefer something that will last me more than 20k kms. Even though I'm on 35s I'm pushing stock power so I think that's pretty average out of a HD clutch.
Car's at the mechanics. Turns out the clutch is fingered after less than 20,000kms. Said it was almost coming out in pieces.
Pretty annoyed. For a supposedly heavy duty clutch, don't really think it's good enough. I don't drive it that hard, most of those km's would've been on the highway.
Only time it gets a hard launch would be slippery clay hills. Even then, with the wheels spinning relatively quickly and easily, I'd have thought this wouldn't cause too many issues for the clutch.
So, the questions are - did the last mechanic actually put a new clutch in, or did I just get a dud? I've had multiple manual vehicles all with clutches going well over 100,000km's (including an xr6t that was abused daily), so 20k kms out of a clutch just has me dumbfounded.
Doesn't sound right. What brand is the clutch coming out? How old? My GQ had a new clutch put in when I purchased it cause it was slipping badly. No idea what brand, I have FLOGGED IT and she is still all good 13 years later. The GUIV has 270kms on the factory clutch! Thinking I've done bloody well.
What brand are you fitting? Consider the UFI clutch. Expensive though. Terrain Tamer Tuff Clutch get a good wrap too.