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I thought it might be a good idea to wrap the strainer ball with another durable fine mesh in case the glue that holds the strainer to the fuel pickup hoses(epoxy) fails.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeeYou8
I'm thinking dropping into bunnings and see if they have something.
Definitely if there is the possibility of grime getting into the fuel tank via unreliable sources, like here in Africa fuel from a 45Gal drum that stands open in the veld for unknown hours, then yes a strainer is necessary. All the submersible pumps I worked with, came with it's own strainer, it is only there to prevent big stuff to enter the pump the fuel filter further on in the system prevents micron stuff from entering the final fuel system, that is more critical and need to be changed regularly! So yes if you want to protect the pump you have to have a strainer
Yeah, the funny thing is that some models of RB30 Patrol comes with the intank strainer, while other didn't. Mine(1990) apparently haven't. But, it's possible since my tank is an aftermarket one, when they moved the factory pump unit from factory tank to the current aftermarket one, they might have forgotten the strainer or damaged it and fitted the pump without the strainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by SCUBA Patrol
When I removed the pump unit to have a look inside the petrol at the bottom was crystal clear with no dregs.
It's either,
1)Petrol in Australia since 1990 up until now is super clean or
2) The pump has been sucking up any residue on petrol, and that may be even the reason the pump appear to be not working properly at times(I haven't figured that out for sure yet. ATM, factory pump appears to be working fine, but I'm adding a redundant one anyway).
Bunnings have aluminium mesh which comes in reels and way too expensive for my job.
They have flywire mesh which is dirt cheap, but not suitable for submerging in petrol.
I've noticed during my dramas withe intank fuel pump that if I try to run it without submerging the pump pickup in petrol it sucks in air and subsequent submerging in petrol won't work(it won't pump petrol) even though I can hear the pump running. The way to overcome that was to stop the pump running and start again(disconnect the power to the pump and reconnect it). This was while having the pump on a bench with a small petrol container to produce the conditions inside the tank.
I'm not certain whether this is a pump fault or not, but I suspect it is, 'cos when the tank run out of petrol the pump does get filled with air through the breather(s) so the same condition can produce the same result. Turning the ignition off and turning on again can mimic the scenario of power disconnect/connect. My overall guess was that the pump was faulty so I wired up a cheaper external pump while still having the internal pump & it's plumbing(sealed but left alone in case I wanna swap over the external pump plumbing lines to the internal pump). I opted to not to purchase a new internal pump 'cos I wasn't sure(still not sure) whether the pump is faulty or not(internal pump is around $150 and I didn't wanna spend that much money without confirming it). External pump setup was super cheap and effective, but I will have to get back to the internal pump issue sometime in the future.
I think the internal pump is indeed faulty in my case 'cos when the vehicle in on LPG(I run it on LPG all the time) the intank petrol pump still runs all the time, and there is no petrol in the petrol tank most of the time. I reckon it's been pumping air(pumping dry) for too long and that might have partially stuffed it up. The wiring by the LPG guy was bad to make it run all the time I reckon.
I have corrected that issue by rewiring so the petrol pump doesn't run anymore while the engine's running on LPG.
Fuel lift pumps will almost invariably use the fuel passing thru as a cooling medium to prevent overheating.
If the pump is run for long periods with no fuel then, yes, I agree it will almost certainly have crapped itself.
yeah common thing, pump will run even when on gas. keep 1/4 tank of petrol is the standard to keep the pump covered and cooling.
I didn't have a clue before. It is bad electrical wiring.Quote:
Originally Posted by garett
The damn petrol pump is $130, and I wired up an external one, thinking it's a total waste of money.
External ones are easier to replace and heaps cheaper and easier to replace as well.
Replacing internal one means dropping the tank in my case 'cos there's no access hole from top(LRA tank).
I thought about cutting an access hole from top, but spot is under the back seats, so I couldn't be bothered.
In mine, there is hardly any need for the petrol pump to run all the time while the engine's running on LPG.
Sure, it causes an issue when switching from LPG to petrol on the fly, but I easily wired up a priming push
button switch on the dash to do that, and I rarely need to use that priming button 'cos I rarely switch from
LPG to petrol while driving.
Yeah, all that trouble 'cos of the stupid way the LPG conversion electric was done.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
It wasn't the only issue with LPG electric wiring. There have been horrendous electrical wiring related to LPG all
around the vehicle that I had to spot one by one and correct.
I'm beginning to believe it was a backyard conversion, 'cos back then it wasn't necessary to have compliance plates for
LPG. It still isn't necessary to have a one, but I'm planning to update the LPG system with better gear soon and have it
stamped.
The only thing I wonder about the steel strainer is, will it jiggle around on the inside of the tanks and wear out either or both components?