I would but the search feature is sh!t, and returns sh!t that's irrelevant 2 my question.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisshead
P.S: whats a search feature????
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I would but the search feature is sh!t, and returns sh!t that's irrelevant 2 my question.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisshead
P.S: whats a search feature????
The main issue with the ZD30's is the weakish pistons. Rest of the motors are quite strong and the factory turbo can handle a lot of boost (30+PSI).
The pistons would either blow through (hole in centre) or shatter usually resulting a leg-out-of-bed situation. The cause for it was/is where EGT's are too high and/or people are revving the shit out of them. I keep seeing people talking about shifting at 4 grand.... No wonder things go sideways fast. People don't know how to listen and feel a motor and when you have well passed the torque sweet spots so keep revving with usually high EGT's because of no NADS or poorly fitted partial NADS. Boom Boom in pants coming.
Yes, the earlier (2003 and prior) were the more prone but there are still plenty of CRD's that still pop and when you look at the shear numbers of these motors out there and the zealots scared of them and do all the fear-mongering, of course they get a bad name.
So, the question: What to look out for when buying a 3ltr motor wise?
- Look for all the usual signs, oil leaks, signs of recent engine or under-body wash that could be hiding bigger issues.
- Look at intercooler, factory turds are press-sealed and leak eventually leaving an oil stain patch.
- Look at the oil on the dipstick for colour and smell it. Presence of fuel is not good. A lot of soot by 5000 means either totally none-NADS and EGR still open and fouling the sucker.
- Check the log books for servicing and ask what oils have been used.
- Start it cold, listen to how it starts. A brisk spin-over and quick fire means she is feeling perky. Look at smoke out the pipe, a small puff of white smoke is normal but smell it, it should be diesel and not oil.
- Listen for any hunting on the revs at idle when cold and warm, if it hunts then sensor or pump issues maybe present. If it just has lumpy idle, an injector maybe sad.
- Drive it, use you ears, hands and most of all, your arse and feel how it runs and drives.
- Any signs of mods, check them all very carefully as the DIY factor usually costs money down the track.
X 2 what with the CRD oil pumps coming loose and leaking coolant .Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
All they did with the Dis was extend the dip stick didnt they ?
Hit and miss on both if you ask me
Shorten the dipstick?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Or just tell him to buy a 4.2....
Bloody 4.2 fan boy [emoji3]Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
Had to be at least one fool.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
very cluey guy if you ask me far from a fool LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
Hook, line and sinker :p lolQuote:
Originally Posted by LostBenji
some thing I keep asking
and never get an answer is.................
HOW many 3.0L were released in Australia
and
just HOW MANY of the 3.0L went to their maker.............
no-one wants to answer
I have 3 mates with a 2001, a 2004, and a 2009
all 3 are over 500K
not one of them has busted anything (except the front wheel bearing) - dont even have NADs on them
the way my mates flog them (like thy stole them) makes me think that the VAST MAJORITY of the 3.0L were ok..............