How I fixed the exhaust leaks on manifold & flange surface

I am assuming an RB30 looking at the manifold and your signature.....?


Anyway, RB30 has a pretty strong bottom end, heads are ordinary but workable but even better, Stronger guts are not hard to find considering the mass of VL Turbo A/M parts and the Skyline crowds. Make a strong bottom end, find an RB25DET head, modify the the two jacket ports and go nuts. There are plenty of A/M ECU mobs out there that will easily let the donk start and run on shipped tune.

I spose though, like everything Patrol, either Nissan skimped on shit and now will cost $$$ to make decent or you just start with a decent platform and enjoy it. Still needs $$ somewhere though.

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Originally Posted by LostBenji

I am assuming an RB30 looking at the manifold and your signature.....?


Anyway, RB30 has a pretty strong bottom end, heads are ordinary but workable but even better, Stronger guts are not hard to find considering the mass of VL Turbo A/M parts and the Skyline crowds. Make a strong bottom end, find an RB25DET head, modify the the two jacket ports and go nuts. There are plenty of A/M ECU mobs out there that will easily let the donk start and run on shipped tune.

I spose though, like everything Patrol, either Nissan skimped on shit and now will cost $$$ to make decent or you just start with a decent platform and enjoy it. Still needs $$ somewhere though.

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Yeah, I like RB25DET head, being multivalve, it would give a really good boost without turbo, wouldn't it?!! Also would be good for LPG.
RB25 means getting a matching inlet and exhaust as well?!!
Standard VL intake & exhaust won't do, am I right?!

My stock RB30 Patrol motor has 330K+ on it now. It's got a fair bit of blow-by already.
That's why I'm bit concerned about high mileage RB30 turbos.
If it blows oil like this when naturally aspirated, then it would blow it like hell when turboed.

Any smaller motor like the RB30 in a bigger vehicle like a Pat should look at boosted induction to compensate for lack or power/torque needed to really move and control the weight.

The RB25DET head is almost a bolt-on option and the manifolds for them can be stolen off a Skyline or VL commo. The multi-valve will allow better breathing but also way high revs, all the way to 9K if your bottom end held.

A couple of options lay for you but the current and tired donk you have now is not one of them. Engine conversion is a good way to get more cubes along with a strong engine to start with. You will already know the common choices for conversions like the LS motors and the likes but you also can go the older V8's like the good old 5.0L out of the Holdens that produce great bottom end and a even better exhaust note. They respond well to PD blowers as well. Another option is in this field is to swap in a TB42 and do her up. Strong, straight 6 that also respond well to turbos and running straight gas would allow a good matching. Great power with still good economy when needed.

Otherwise, source another RB30 block and start a fresh build on it with all the trimmings, then do a swap at a time that suits you rather than being off the roads for weeks or months while you rebuild the sad one if it lets go.

Wow, from fixing an exhaust leak to engine swapping a built turbo donk. That escalated quickly!

>>>tappin from tassie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LostBenji

Any smaller motor like the RB30 in a bigger vehicle like a Pat should look at boosted induction to compensate for lack or power/torque needed to really move and control the weight.

The RB25DET head is almost a bolt-on option and the manifolds for them can be stolen off a Skyline or VL commo. The multi-valve will allow better breathing but also way high revs, all the way to 9K if your bottom end held.

A couple of options lay for you but the current and tired donk you have now is not one of them. Engine conversion is a good way to get more cubes along with a strong engine to start with. You will already know the common choices for conversions like the LS motors and the likes but you also can go the older V8's like the good old 5.0L out of the Holdens that produce great bottom end and a even better exhaust note. They respond well to PD blowers as well. Another option is in this field is to swap in a TB42 and do her up. Strong, straight 6 that also respond well to turbos and running straight gas would allow a good matching. Great power with still good economy when needed.

Otherwise, source another RB30 block and start a fresh build on it with all the trimmings, then do a swap at a time that suits you rather than being off the roads for weeks or months while you rebuild the sad one if it lets go.

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I would like the extra grunt you gain from all that, but for simplicity. You are turning the vehicle into a racehorse, where a donkey will suffice. The gearboxes aren't that crash hot either. I like the idea of carrying a fuel pump motor and a carby in the back.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

I would like the extra grunt you gain from all that, but for simplicity. You are turning the vehicle into a racehorse, where a donkey will suffice. The gearboxes aren't that crash hot either. I like the idea of carrying a fuel pump motor and a carby in the back.

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Yeah, simplicity serves on long treks on isolated tracks. I carry a dizzy, ignition coil, leads, carby, starter, alternator, LPG converter, etc etc.
The only downside with RB30 stock engine is towing can be bit of a pain, depending on the weight of the van. Mine is a simple, lightweight old van, but still the troll struggles to tow it uphills.
You can't have everything though. Dual fuel is pretty handy to have. LPG is hard and expensive to come by in the outback.
So, having auxiliary LPG tanks hasn't always helped me. It's not that practical to make dual fuel turbo with an RB30(somebody correct me on that if I'm wrong). Even if you can, I don't think it can be done that cheaply.
I'm yet to see a dual fuel RB30 turbo! May be it's doable, but too expensive and fiddly?!!

I do get frustrated by the RB30 NA lack of power at times. Like in life, you can't have everything. It's either simplicity & reliability or trade that for more power.

Plus, I'd assume unless you put a spacer on the head to lower the comps a bit, you'd be limited to 98RON which can be hard to come by in some areas.

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Originally Posted by Throbbinhood

Plus, I'd assume unless you put a spacer on the head to lower the comps a bit, you'd be limited to 98RON which can be hard to come by in some areas.

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Turbo RB30's use a slightly thicker head gasket, don't they?!

If I do the turbo conversion, I can't imagine doing it just for LPG( or petrol).
I prefer the choice dual fuel gives me.

Depends of the pistons used (rebuilt donk for grunt likely to have non-stock pistons) and the cylinder volume.

If you wan't a reliable Outbacker to carry spares, loose the RB30 and run a TB42 or V8 conversion.

Running straight gas is what I have been advised by a good mechanic, that to get the real benefits of gas/turbo.

I will never have another vehicle that runs dual fuel, or one that's been converted to gas. The amount of times my family, friends and myself have been stranded because of
faulty workmanship, foreign matter in the gas, and wiring faults has put me off it.