A place to mount tow hook on GU

Thanks DX and everyone.

I was a little concerned at having to drill holes in under-body parts of the roo bar as this would leave only about 10-15mm of metal from the edge where hook would be mounted. The lowest bolt for the roobar (marked A) does fit the 3/4 inch bolt for the tow hook. But drilling the other hole as shown here means drilling through the edge of the frame mount and the nut would not sit on flush metal.

I had been reading up on a number of posts about tie down points and hooks recently. I had bought the tow hook pictured as I had this on the Hi-Lux we first had and it worked well. The bolt on plates pictured in the other thread look good for use with shackles etc must look in to them.

The two holes in frame in the second photo are too small and are about 20cm behind the base of the radiator mount. I would want to be in front of everything when cable and straps are swinging around.

The Nissan mounted hook does look very solid and better bolts than the 10,000 lb "rated" hook I am (was) going to mount. Problem is the lack of retainer clip to stop straps etc falling off.
I like the bridle idea from other posts and would want to remove the factory hook if I can find a replacement.

Thanks for the ideas guys

bit lost in those photos with B and A but if it is where I think it is, that is more or less the same spot as the tie down point on the GQ. There should be some factory holes on the other chassis rail, equivalent to where the factory hook is on the first chassis rail

Some of the after market plates have holes drilled to take hooks like your black one pictured, as well as a bigger hole for shackles.

I'm also looking for a pair of aftermarket front recovery plates to fit my '06 GU. However they seem to be sold to fit series X model GU's (1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6). Trouble is it seem ridiculously difficult to confirm which series I have. I have trawled the forums unsuccessfully (I think I have a series 4 - but as yet no 100% confirmation). Our local dealers whom I provided my VIN number to were unable to tell me. They have now emailed Nissan & awaiting their reply. I am hoping I can get both a driver & passenger side plate to fit. At present it just has one of the factory hooks as in some of the photos here. It looks as though it's tubular - doesn't inspire confidence that it would be strong enough to snatch me out of a bog.

Cuppa

Now I'm confused. My GU has that thick hook thingy, so if I just get another one of them or just one steel plate recovery point for the left, thats ok ?

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Originally Posted by katwoman

Now I'm confused. My GU has that thick hook thingy, so if I just get another one of them or just one steel plate recovery point for the left, thats ok ?

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Yes Kat, get another hook like the one you have, and under your chasis on the other side you will, with help of artificial light, find two holes with no bolts that will need cleaning out. Now you will also needrated high tensile bolts to go in those holes. I suggest going to wrecker and looking for a complete hook and bolts on a troll like yours, that has not had front damage, and get from that. At least the you will have correct rating, size and thread bolts, even if you feel safer buying new hook.

Tim

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

I'm also looking for a pair of aftermarket front recovery plates to fit my '06 GU. However they seem to be sold to fit series X model GU's (1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6). Trouble is it seem ridiculously difficult to confirm which series I have. I have trawled the forums unsuccessfully (I think I have a series 4 - but as yet no 100% confirmation). Our local dealers whom I provided my VIN number to were unable to tell me. They have now emailed Nissan & awaiting their reply. I am hoping I can get both a driver & passenger side plate to fit. At present it just has one of the factory hooks as in some of the photos here. It looks as though it's tubular - doesn't inspire confidence that it would be strong enough to snatch me out of a bog.

Cuppa

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This is what’s on the undercarriage of DX grunt

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ripprep002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ripprep001.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ypoints002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...pcradle002.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ypoints001.jpg

As I have stated in a few posts, I won't be hitching you up if you have that 'factory hook' I believe it's for tie downs only and not recovery. It may look safe, and could be safe, but IMHO, I don't trust it. I got my paired front recovery points from an ARB distributor in Mandurah WA and am very happy with them and confident that I can tow or be towed safely using them. They also come with all the nuts 'n bolts 'n washers, AND instructions. lol


Ross

Everyone participating in a recovery obviously has to be happy with the set up, as the consequences of things going awry are severe.

Interestingly this is what the Nissan GR Y61 factory manual has to say about the front hook under discussion, and the rear loop above the step:

TOWING HOOKS
The towing hooks are provided only for emergency.
+ Use the towing hooks only, not other parts of the vehicle. Otherwise, the vehicle body will be damaged.
+ Use the towing hooks only to free a vehicle stuck in sand,snow, mud, etc. Never tow the vehicle for long distances using only the towing hooks.
+ The towing hook is under tremendous force when used to freea stuck vehicle. Always pull the cable straight out from the front or rear of the vehicle. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle.

This info is from page GI-42. The picture looks like what we all call a GU.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Silver

Everyone participating in a recovery obviously has to be happy with the set up, as the consequences of things going awry are severe.

Interestingly this is what the Nissan GR Y61 factory manual has to say about the front hook under discussion, and the rear loop above the step:

TOWING HOOKS
The towing hooks are provided only for emergency.
+ Use the towing hooks only, not other parts of the vehicle. Otherwise, the vehicle body will be damaged.
+ Use the towing hooks only to free a vehicle stuck in sand,snow, mud, etc. Never tow the vehicle for long distances using only the towing hooks.
+ The towing hook is under tremendous force when used to freea stuck vehicle. Always pull the cable straight out from the front or rear of the vehicle. Never pull on the hook at a sideways angle.

This info is from page GI-42. The picture looks like what we all call a GU.

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Thanks for the info, Silver. You're perfectly right. The towing and towed vehicle drivers, have to be satisfied on all aspects of the tow.
I would be interested to see what Mr Nissan's definition is of an 'emergency'. To me, going out wheeling every weekend is a pre-determined activity, not an emergency.

Off my soapbox now. lol. Thanks for listening.

Ross

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Originally Posted by DX grunt

This is what's on the undercarriage of DX grunt

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Hi Ross. I've got an ARB catalogue in front of me, but no recovery plates like those in it. Any chance you can ask questions of your supplier for me next time you have contact?

Cuppa

Didn't see your soap box Ross, all seems very friendly and informative to me.

It isn't clear to me what Nissan mean by 'free a vehicle' and 'tow'. It does read a bit like a snatch recovery, but they do say 'cable' which to me = winch. It would be great if they said something like 'We can't guarantee it because we have no control over how you use it, but if you pull in a straightish line with an x000 kg strap all should be good.'

I've seen pictures on line of a GQ chassis that looked a bit sad, from a vehicle in Dubai. Heavy 30 degrees off line sideways snatch, among other issues. Factory hook stayed attached, with folding damage to the chassis, but whatever he had bolted to the other chassis rail did not. He acknowledged the other side was dodgy before the recovery, and it wasn't clear to me that he didn't have two goes, one on each rail, rather than use an equaliser.

I've personally seen a metal tow rope hook penetrate a Hilux tailgate at the Southern end of Fraser Island back in '94. That's what comes of bogging a troopy to the chassis in the surf, wrapping a k-mart braided tow rope around a spring hanger, and then hooking the end of the tow rope onto a snatch strap. I wouldn't have done it. I made sure my family and self were well clear. Both drivers were (initially) happy and one was very lucky. (and my MQ was safely out of range!!)


At the end of the day I think it comes down to the strength of the straps, what they are used for, and how. Sometimes they are used when a winch might be more appropriate? Then you have to ask what is the role of the more heavily rated straps for the likes of Patrols and Tojos. I can see how a 10, 12 or 15 tonner would come in handy with one of those 4wd trucks that are becoming more popular.

I'd rather have a strap or bridle fail, if anything has to fail, than a chunk of metal that might get launched. Then there are those who go for hooks that straighten rather than break, rather than hooks that break or hooks or plates that come loose because the bolts or chassis fail. I linked a page elsewhere here on some testing done in Kiwiland in 2004 that identified a hook that straightened at about the right rating. It also had some fascinating things to say about pintle hooks in place of that loop on the rear step. Not to mention a tow ball that faired surprisingly well!!

I have two Outback Ideas recovery plates ($130 the pair) from TJM, one of which will be fitted on the left hand side rail with grade 8 bolts and maybe a plate on the inside of the chassis. TJM did not think a plate necessary. I think I'll leave my factory GQ hook. I have an 8 tonne breaking strain webbing equaliser, and 8 tonne snatch strap. The logic is that the hook shouldn't be working too hard with the equaliser (enclosed angle > 45 degrees), and if it is a dodgy as some think, then it becomes the weak link and all will still be connected for a time to the left hand chassis rail by the plate. Then again, might fit the other plate.

My webbing equaliser replaces the 10mm rated Serafini chain I used to use on my MQ along with paired recovery loops at each end sourced from Bedford trucks and fitted with brackets fabricated by boiler maker mates. I don't use the chain any more, because I am now aware of the webbing option, and I don't want almost 3 metres of 10mm chain on the loose, not to mention that the webbing is also heaps lighter.

All musings on my part with absolutely no engineering qualifications :-) Anyway, how deep can I get with all terrain tyres!!!