Have you checked your crank angle sensor, ignition timing, throttle position sensor?
Is the ecutalk still saying MAF?
Have you reset the ecu?
If you disconnect the MAF does the engine run the same, better or worse?
Have you checked the wiring from the MAF back to the ecu?
More non-expert thoughts to consider.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luddite
?identify which cylinder is the one which is missing. First try swapping over ignition leads to see if affected cylinder 'moves'. If leads (& distributor) are ok I'm wondering about the possibility of an exhaust valve not closing properly? Maybe a compression test?
have seen a tb45 drop a push rod. valve stems gummed up
Hi Irish,
I replaced the crank angle sensor, checked the timing using a light at 10 degrees BTDC, checked the TPS with a multimeter - it is within specifications and advances / reverses appropriately when the throttle spindle is turned to fully open and back to closed.
ECUtalk still says MAF. On the main screen it says that the MAF is sitting at a fraction over 5 volts.
I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for about half an hour.
I checked the compressions in all cylinders - between 1000 and 1040 kPa in each - I was trying to exclude a leak between cylinders and they all appear fine. Needle climbed steadily in each cylinder test (3-4 turns of the crank).
Some small change when the MAF is disconnected - it runs slightly better?
I started it on gas and held it with the hand throttle at around 1000 rpm.
I noticed that disconnecting plug leads 2 or 3 while the motor was running made no difference to the poor running. Disconnecting 1, 4,5 or 6 produced a noticeable change in running. Leads 2 and 3 threw off good bright sparks between the dizzy cap plug hole and the metal plug end as they were removed. I ran it in the dark and can't see any sparks sneaking out of the sides of the leads.
I runs really poorly on petrol. I am beginning to wonder about the ECU. As I understand it, the ECU makes decisions about the amount and timing of fuel to be injected based on info from other sensors. When it is on gas, the engine runs "better" than on petrol - where it really bogs down and the smell of raw petrol is strong.
I pulled the ECU and took off the covers, but there was nothing to see there - no corrosion, no loose crap.
Well - I replaced the ECU and hey presto the MAF voltage on the ECUtalk is rising and falling depending on the throttle movement - where as before it was sitting up on 5.115 volts and not moving. Now it runs - better - but still has issues. As it idles it still sounds like it is dropping out a couple of cylinders. As I rev up it still has a rough miss sound too.
If the head gasket was leaking between cylinders - say 2 and 3 - should compression be poor? It seems like it's having trouble firing on all cylinders - can a blown head gasket interfere with ignition?
By process of elimination and getting a fresh set of eyes on things, it looks like the fuel pressure regulator has crapped itself and the injector "baskets" were clagged with E10 petrol "varnish". The regulator was changed 3 years ago before a trip into the desert "just to be sure" and now appears to be letting neat petrol straight into the inlet manifold. I have dug out the old one and will switch that back in to see how we get on. Three Dogs was on the money with the "dual fuelling" guess - all the black sooty crap was to do with petrol AND gas getting into the manifold at the same time, and not getting properly burned up. The clue was the motor ran fine on gas with no petrol supplied to the injector rail. Once petrol was put back to the rail, the crappy running happened again. Initially, blocked injectors leaking down was suspected. I learned that the injectors on dual fuel TB42e motor are "switched off" when on gas but this doesn't stop the fuel pump running, pushing fuel to the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel rail. When on petrol, the injectors "flutter" making the petrol mist in the inlet manifold. A pressure check of the injectors showed they were clagged up - but not leaking. The internal filter baskets were coated with "varnish" from ethanol mixed petrol preventing them from working properly anyway. It seems that E10 fuel is bad news for dual fuel EFI motors that only use petrol now and again, as the ethanol part sticks to the inside of the injectors and stops them working properly. They have been cleaned professionally now. It's fingers crossed that the regulator switch over will fix this issue.
Still sound like cyl 2&3 are doing something wrong.
Ecu swap won't fix that as its a distributor fired engine.
Dissy, Rotor, Plugs, leads, cap, all prime suspects, cleaning and gapping time!
Plugs are cheap, even swapping cyl see if miss moves if money's tight.
E10 is bad news for most engines of older cars. i avoid it like the plague.
try to burn one tank of petrol for every 2 of gas, should help avoid the clogging up.
Thanks for the advice along the way everyone. The GQ TB42e lives again -the fuel pressure regulator was the cause of the fuel prob.
So to recap, terrible starting and running on gas and even worse running on petrol was caused by a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail developing a fault and tipping neat petrol into the inlet manifold. This meant that on gas, the engine was getting gas AND petrol at the same time.
The clue was black sooty crap coming out of the exhaust and also coating the plugs. Disabling petrol delivery meant we were good to go on gas, isolating the problem to the petrol side of things.
Terrible running on petrol was because of poor pressure in the rail (cos the regulator was letting the fuel go elsewhere) and the injectors were clagged up with E10 fuel crap.
Lessons learned include: pay attention to the obvious - loads of black soot and the stink of unburnt petrol. I should have started there. I got sidetracked cos the regulator is basically brand new and I just didn't think about that being involved. just proves new parts can also fail quickly.