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Reco ing single pots only gives you good brakes until you go 4x4 ing again it's not really worth it.
If you have a hand vac gauge test booster and associated parts separately to isolate fault.
Sounds like your brake bias is up the put!
Try the de glaze route and swap fluid check sliders
My understanding is that glazed rotors don't need to be machined, only scuffed up to remove the glaze.
As for bleeding brakes, I used to hate bleeding brakes, but now do gravity bleeding which is dead easy, and, the only method so far that has given the patrol a solid pedal. Put a hose on the bleed nipple, other end into a jar and crack it open. Have the reservoir open so it can be topped up, but about 10 mins per corner(including proportioning valve) is all it needs. If you have a clear hose, this makes it easier to see if you still have air inside. I even tried gently tapping the caliper while the fluid was dripping out and I did manage to make a little more air escape.
If the slides are sticking, the fronts are easy to remove and clean. Use an appropriately sized drill bit by hand to clean the holes that the sliders sit in and re grease.
I did try cv grease on the pins at one point, but this stuff dried up within a few months and was useless. Only used it because I was worried about the incorrect grease eating away at the rubber seals. I've since just used wheel bearing grease. Rubbers are still fine months later and the pins don't dry up anymore. And the brakes are amazing.
remove the air out of the booster then clamp each wheel to find the area that's at fault. Clamp 1 at a time and try the brake pedal each time.
I've tried everything to improve my spongy pedal but after everything I have done still the same thing. There's 1 more thing on my list but I'll leave that for later down the track anyway let me know when you're going to bleed the fluid and we'll smash it out in 10 mins. Ask Darren how fast and how well we bled his gq