dawes and needle valve installation

I suspect the Air FILTER Resonator is used to provide a clean air supply, not much else.

The newer Dawes have a choice of ceramic balls for very small $$ extra.

BTW I have the Dual Dawes setup complete, and it appears to work as advertised. Boost pressure limits are lower than what I set off-line but that is a fairly simple adjustment (or not!!)
I disabled the high valve to check low maximum, then the low--not much to see there.
We shall see!!!

Thanks Mudski. I might have a look for a filter today. If I can't find one and I connect to the resonator, does that mean I have to readjust the needle valve. It looks like I am running a closed system at the moment where the vacuum pump adjusts the negative pressure (vacuum) in the system. If I plumb into the air box then I assume I will need to readjust the whole system to limit the amount of fresh air coming in (close needle valve)?
Before I bought the needle valve I just ran the dawes valve on its own and it worked well (no limp mode). I don't think I have adjusted the needle valve much (mostly open) at the moment to get the turbo to spool up quickly.

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Originally Posted by Rock Trol

Thanks Mudski. I might have a look for a filter today. If I can't find one and I connect to the resonator, does that mean I have to readjust the needle valve. It looks like I am running a closed system at the moment where the vacuum pump adjusts the negative pressure (vacuum) in the system. If I plumb into the air box then I assume I will need to readjust the whole system to limit the amount of fresh air coming in (close needle valve)?
Before I bought the needle valve I just ran the dawes valve on its own and it worked well (no limp mode). I don't think I have adjusted the needle valve much (mostly open) at the moment to get the turbo to spool up quickly.

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So your running a needle valve? Sorry I'm a bit confused on how you have plumbed up.

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Originally Posted by Rock Trol

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=54636&stc=1

I have a quick question regarding the setup of the needle valve. I have set mine up without a connection to the Air Filter Resonator and it works well. What are the consequences if any of not having a connection there?
Chaz notes the reason for the connection as: "A clean air supply is needed to reduce the vacuum signal and its taken from the Air Filter Resonator, which is the same source as the ECU Solenoid Valve uses from "Port C"."

If the vacuum signal is not reduced does it cause more wear on the dawes and needle valves? I was told by the turbo place where I purchased the dawes to just bypass the whole lot and like I said it works fine.

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@mudski
Mate because im using my scan gauge to monitor boost, do I just put the dawes in line from the actuator (Ball end facing actuator) then the top to the vac line

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Originally Posted by growler2058

@mudski
Mate because im using my scan gauge to monitor boost, do I just put the dawes in line from the actuator (Ball end facing actuator) then the top to the vac line

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No the ball end is the pressure, or boost side. So this end need to pickup boost pressure from the motor. The vac side, with the two small barbs basically goes inline on the line to the actuator. pm me your email and I'll shoot you the destructions again.

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Originally Posted by growler2058

@mudski
Mate because im using my scan gauge to monitor boost, do I just put the dawes in line from the actuator (Ball end facing actuator) then the top to the vac line

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Just think of the ball valve as a "tap". When the boost pressure (red line in diagram) gets to your preset level it pushes the ball out off the seat and some of the boost is then routed to the actuator (past the ball) and reduces the vacuum. The actuator then closes - in turn reducing your boost. Therefore your boost can't go any higher than what the spring in the ball valve is set to. It's basically a loop that disappears up its own bum!

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Originally Posted by BillsGU

Just think of the ball valve as a "tap". When the boost pressure (red line in diagram) gets to your preset level it pushes the ball out off the seat and some of the boost is then routed to the actuator (past the ball) and reduces the vacuum. The actuator then closes - in turn reducing your boost. Therefore your boost can't go any higher than what the spring in the ball valve is set to. It's basically a loop that disappears up its own bum!

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Righto get that. But if im not using a boost gauge (because i'm using a scan gauge) where do i pick that boost up from now? Do i need to still "tap" into the inlet pipe to the intercooler, or is there another line/hose. I was trying to avoid having to drill and tap into my I/C pipe

Buy a boost adaptor its the quickest and neatest way to do it and wont break the bank

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Pa...4AAOSw5cNYLPmR

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Buy a boost adaptor its the quickest and neatest way to do it and wont break the bank

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Patrol-Navara-ZD30-DI-CRD-Boost-Gauge-Port-Adapter-Only-Sale-/331988022385?hash=item4d4c073471:g:4m4AAOSw5cNYLPm R

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And wheres that sit mate? Got a pic

sits directly under your OE boost sensor on the front of your IC
Check the link it has a pic there