I have had it explained to me that engine oil is designed to be at the optimum viscosity in the normal heat range. Running too cold it is thicker and also the engine is tuned for the normal heat range too.
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I have had it explained to me that engine oil is designed to be at the optimum viscosity in the normal heat range. Running too cold it is thicker and also the engine is tuned for the normal heat range too.
you are right.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
I had a 3 core one, and it never fixed the constant "Nissan" aircon OFF when hot
went back to a brand new Factory 2 core
and it was fine
then I found out that the cores in the 3 core (all 3 together) is less than the 2 cores in the OE one............
the Ally ones of eBay are a hit and miss if they are any good (without defects or leaking) and a waste of time (know of 6 ppl who have brought...... only 2 were any good)
just saying..........
Agreed plus different metals expand at different rates so the engine is designed around tolerances for components to be at optimal size at a regulated temperature range, well, reasonably well regulated.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Same applies to hydraulic systems like power steering or auto gearboxes
In quite cold climates you may have to put covers over the radiator air source so the engine gets hot enough.
Ice Road Truckers is an extreme example but a good one.
They run their loaded trucks with maybe 1/2 to 3/4's of the grille covered and if empty or light load maybe 3/4's or more.
Not common these days but old school some trucks tractors etc had adjustable louvres on the radiator to restrict air flow
Yeah don't see how running too cold could possibly be a problem??Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
You choose a thermostat to suit your climate IMO
As if you were in Darwin you would have a different set up to Tassie.
Running too cold will damage your motor
I think they call them tropical thermostats not 100% sure on that one
Too cold and a gas system may not work to its optimum
A friend of mine John Bennet [Google him] designed the cooling systems for
the V8 super cars he also has/had superior cooling setups for Nissans and most V8 conversions where
they couldnt get the motor to "normal'.
His system part "A" cost $600 for the water pump where he would take your water pump apart.
throw the pressed tin fan in the bin and build a proper impellor to go it its place.
He would then take a dye grinder and remove any areas where any sort of "cavitation" could occur. This mod alone was worth doing, increasing water flow by 20%
Part "B" of the mod was another $600 and included a billet thermostat housing that went into the bottom hose, there by taking engine temp when it leaves the motor, He also had a bleed system at the rear of the motor. With part "A" and "B" installed it would sit on "NORMAL" going up Zeka spur in low low with the aircon on on a 45 degree day. Sadly he retired to Mt Maceadon but still does a water pump now and again'
What this guy doesnt know about cooling isnt worth knowing, He is considered the Guru of all things to do with Automotive cooling.
If that was the case, why have the thermostat to heat the engine and coolant up to 90 ish degrees in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
You could dice it and let the engine run as cold as the efficiency of the cooling system allows.
Yet every manuf runs their engines at 90 to 105 give or take as "normal" operating range
As long as you have have more capacity than stock (13L I think ) My pwr gives me an extra 5 odd litres of capacity. More coolant, more ability to transfer heatQuote:
Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie
If it runs cold and the engine cannot get to temp the internals wont expand to their proper tolerances, and it will wear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Anywhere between the 2 lines on the factory temp gauge is considered normal temp.
I meant, how could it be a problem being that the thermostat will just close if the radiator I too efficientQuote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
The thermostat won't stay closed. The thermostat will open when the stationary water in the engine reaches a certain temperature, allowing water to circulate through the system. When the engine temperature normalises, the thermostat may close a little or a lot to maintain a regulated temp. This is how it normally works. If the cooling is too efficient, that is the radiator is getting rid of ALL the heat, the maximum working temperature or the engine will be that of the radiator water. In other words the thermostat can only regulate what it has. If for some reason the water is too hot or too cold the thermostat can only regulate within that range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
IMHO the OME design of radiator, thermostat and system is probably best for the vehicle unless you are running in extremes such as cold climate all the time or very hot climate all the time. Increasing the number of cores may result in better cooling of the water but will also decrease the ID of the galleries in the radiator. OK if you always use good coolant in your radiator. Unfortunately, we tend to take our vehicles out and fill the radiator externals with leaves and mud and wonder why they don't perform as well as they did. There is always the possibility that an emergency in the bush may cause you to have to top up or even fill with not so pure water instead of coolant. In this situation it may be best to have as large an ID in the galleries as possible.