New clutch fan not working

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

Lol this is exactly the same fault i had with my trol, couldn't hear the clutch fan engage. I removed the radiator cleaned it inside and out with the hose, I also put 2 thermostats thru it and a new viscous hub but the auxiliary fan would continually stay on plus if i was going up hill the temps rise, i had to drive with my heater on flat out to keep the engine cool.

Long story short my radiator was 40% blocked internally the only way to clean it properly is to remove the tanks and get the tubes cleaned correctly.

Ally radiators are not serviceable so if it gets blocked internally you can try get it cut open and re welded but you'll most likely clog it up again with slag. Get your radiator cleaned out and price up a 3 core copper/brass unit.

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I understand what your saying but how does my radiator end up being blocked overnite. it was working fine when i pulled it into the garage to add turbo. Drive it out with turbo and went straight on a 4 day trip and it got hot the whole time. Lucky the fan was running all the time that it kept cool enough to not overheat and spill it coolant. New fan wasnt coming on at all to even help cool it down after cresting a hill. Didnt drop below 105 degrees before the next incline came along.

What are your pyros like? With my old turbo setup the pyros were fairly high and the car ran a lot warmer than what it does now with the new turbo setup because pyros are so much lower.

car is getting to 500 plus on the gauge. its isnt tuned yet ive been lazy just drive of the guage. once it hits 500 i back of but usually if i can keep the revs fairly high it takes ages to get that high and can usually crest most hills without backing of.

ALso in regards to an airlock. When filling with coolant the car was slightly facing down hill. Whats the chances of it causing an airlock like this?

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Originally Posted by BLKWDW

I understand what your saying but how does my radiator end up being blocked overnite. it was working fine when i pulled it into the garage to add turbo. Drive it out with turbo and went straight on a 4 day trip and it got hot the whole time. Lucky the fan was running all the time that it kept cool enough to not overheat and spill it coolant. New fan wasnt coming on at all to even help cool it down after cresting a hill. Didnt drop below 105 degrees before the next incline came along.

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How old is your coolant? When was the last time you had the radiator cleaned ? When was the last time the welsh plugs removed to clean all the scale from the block ? What condition is the water pump impeller ??

Your radiator may have been blocked back when you installed the turbo kit over 6 months ago and you didn't know. Understand how a viscous fan hub works, the air passing thru the radiator heats the element ( a coil of flat bar ) in the hub to create a larger surface area to utilize the viscosity of the oil in the hub to lock the fan close to a 1:1 ratio with the engine rpm, if the radiator is blocked the bottom half wont heat up enough to head to heat the element for it to engage.

Assuming your water pump is circulating the water and you don't have any water leaks thats what i think your fault is.

If you do end up getting a new radiator you still need to reverse flush the block and heater core to remove as much scale as you can to keep you warranty.

You might get an air lock at the back of the block,
go get your tune/dyno you might just be getting too much fuel

As Alitis say you may want to run some radiator flush through the system,
and with all this hot weather your cooling system will need to be spot on.
Winnie got a great deal on a bigger radiator. You have "Goat Syndrome"

Do Nissan 4.2 have a block bleedscrew on the back of the block???

He's not around anymore [retired] but he enhanced any water pump by removing factory press steel fan/and replacing it
with a proper impellor, John Bennet is the GURU of all things to do with cooling a motor. I think the V8 supercars use his system.
He puts the thermostat in the bottom hose, He made two stages for cooling, I had his water pump in my SBC troopy, would never overheat.
Shame he retired and never passed on his knowledge

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Originally Posted by threedogs

You might get an air lock at the back of the block,
go get your tune/dyno you might just be getting too much fuel

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Not by the sounds of his pyros

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

How old is your coolant? When was the last time you had the radiator cleaned ? When was the last time the welsh plugs removed to clean all the scale from the block ? What condition is the water pump impeller ??

Your radiator may have been blocked back when you installed the turbo kit over 6 months ago and you didn't know. Understand how a viscous fan hub works, the air passing thru the radiator heats the element ( a coil of flat bar ) in the hub to create a larger surface area to utilize the viscosity of the oil in the hub to lock the fan close to a 1:1 ratio with the engine rpm, if the radiator is blocked the bottom half wont heat up enough to head to heat the element for it to engage.

Assuming your water pump is circulating the water and you don't have any water leaks thats what i think your fault is.

If you do end up getting a new radiator you still need to reverse flush the block and heater core to remove as much scale as you can to keep you warranty.

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Coolant is new changed it as well as flushing the block and radiator when installing the temp gauge you got me finally. I see your point will get a costing on getting the rad looked at. Will also pull the hub apart as i have the oil i was going to use to rebuild the old fan here anyways so wont hurt to look. Might go get another new thermostat as well and check the current one as well was thinking of a tridon highflow one repco stock them. if i dont HAVE to get a new radiator i dont want to. The car will be tuned asap i have been trying to get a hold of the bloke for over 2 months and being the only one in town to tune ill have to keep trying

To get the rad core cleaned shouldn't cost you more then a couple of 100 but that and new thermostat would be a winner mate. Those tridon highflow units are ok to use.

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Originally Posted by BLKWDW

car is getting to 500 plus on the gauge. its isnt tuned yet ive been lazy just drive of the guage. once it hits 500 i back of but usually if i can keep the revs fairly high it takes ages to get that high and can usually crest most hills without backing of.

ALso in regards to an airlock. When filling with coolant the car was slightly facing down hill. Whats the chances of it causing an airlock like this?

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Almost certainly your problem. The radiator cap must be the highest point to bleed properly. A TD42 can take a long time to bleed as it runs so cool. You need the nose up and the Heater On and a funnel sealed over the cap and on High Idle. Fill the funnel and go and have lunch. You want at least 2 or 3 cycles through the thermostat actuation.

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

How old is your coolant? When was the last time you had the radiator cleaned ? When was the last time the welsh plugs removed to clean all the scale from the block ? What condition is the water pump impeller ??

Your radiator may have been blocked back when you installed the turbo kit over 6 months ago and you didn't know. Understand how a viscous fan hub works, the air passing thru the radiator heats the element ( a coil of flat bar ) in the hub to create a larger surface area to utilize the viscosity of the oil in the hub to lock the fan close to a 1:1 ratio with the engine rpm, if the radiator is blocked the bottom half wont heat up enough to head to heat the element for it to engage.

Assuming your water pump is circulating the water and you don't have any water leaks thats what i think your fault is.

If you do end up getting a new radiator you still need to reverse flush the block and heater core to remove as much scale as you can to keep you warranty.

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My thoughts exactly. Given this has happened directly after fitting the turbo are you sure the thing is actually hot? Is the a turbo Water cooled too? Where is the return line? Right next to the temp gauge sender into the thermostat housing I'm tipping.

With an Air Lock the Viscous Fan element might not be getting hot enough to engage and is relying on radiant heat to engage intermittently.

Although nice to look at the PWR Alloy Rads can also cause a Stray Current is sure and electrolysis, I certainly know someone that spent 6 months chasing the stray current before ripping the PWR back out and fitting a copper for the fix.

Given your description that this has happened immediately after the turbo fit and the radiator flush I'm tipping an airlock. If you flushed your own radiator while still on the car then removing it and having it professionally cleaned is also a cheap insurance.

I would be re bleeding the system first and foremost. Nose up, heater on for an extended period on high idle.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Almost certainly your problem. The radiator cap must be the highest point to bleed properly. A TD42 can take a long time to bleed as it runs so cool. You need the nose up and the Heater On and a funnel sealed over the cap and on High Idle. Fill the funnel and go and have lunch. You want at least 2 or 3 cycles through the thermostat actuation.




My thoughts exactly. Given this has happened directly after fitting the turbo are you sure the thing is actually hot? Is the a turbo Water cooled too? Where is the return line? Right next to the temp gauge sender into the thermostat housing I'm tipping.

With an Air Lock the Viscous Fan element might not be getting hot enough to engage and is relying on radiant heat to engage intermittently.

Although nice to look at the PWR Alloy Rads can also cause a Stray Current is sure and electrolysis, I certainly know someone that spent 6 months chasing the stray current before ripping the PWR back out and fitting a copper for the fix.

Given your description that this has happened immediately after the turbo fit and the radiator flush I'm tipping an airlock. If you flushed your own radiator while still on the car then removing it and having it professionally cleaned is also a cheap insurance.

I would be re bleeding the system first and foremost. Nose up, heater on for an extended period on high idle.

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Well the car is now facing up hill so will dump the fluid and put in a new thermostat at same time. its a water cooled turbo (dts kit) and yes water is taken from up near the thermostat. I know its getting hot the gauge was reading 115 degrees when it boiled over and spat all the coolant out and that was only at idle trying to reverse trailer into the backyard. Fan was not on. I had the turbo fitted last easter so i didnt fit last weekend. It has ran hot ever since especially climbing hills but since the old fan was seized and running at same speed as the engine rpm it was keeping it somewhat cool but still heating up going up hills but was also cooling straight down when over the hill.