Printable View
It lost 500mm when he started it the second time.
I think he is pulling the thermo's out now mate so I will ring and make sure he checks anyway.
Could very well simply be bugs and dirt too mate, I'm sure he's gone through that scenario after the trip but will double check.
I'll check in and come back soon...
Cheers Matty!!!
He's checking thermos tonight so ill get back to you mate.
He has noticed the radiator cap is a bit "dicky" (his words) I guess meaning its not a solid fit and may be letting air in under the assumption it could be boiling at 99 rather then 108 or whatever pressure boiling is???
Radiator is very clean no bugs dust, etc.
Ill report back tomoz anyway.
Also, he did notice slight bubbles on the second start up but is on the hope its the cap letting air in. Thermo check tonight, new cap tomoz and check properly for bubbles.
Cap won't really let air in but if it's faulty then the system can't get to operating pressure allowing the boiling point to be lower than if the cap was in good condition. It will also allow more fluid to be pushed out if it's faulty.
Sorry AB, beyond me mate. I would have been thinking thermostats or radiator too, and if that didn't work I would be calling the cavalry.
Ian, I am running 285/75's, and prior to doing the reduction I was sitting at pretty much 2230rpm at the 100kph mark. For me that felt like the engine was revving high.
Evil Twin, my 10% rev reduction 5th gear was from Marks 4wd Adaptors and is just a standard Nissan gearbox fit up for 5th. I was expecting it to run at around 1900rpm, but I think it is doing about 1780rpm. Happy with that too. It really just lopes along and yet still has plenty of torque for overtaking to speeds of around 130kph. Anything higher and it again feels like it is out of its comfort zone. I've had it to 140kph, but haven't yet pushed it any higher.
I don't know what the difference is between the 4L80 & the 4L85, but yes I would expect a 6L80 would be a nice match with this engine. For me, 1st gear in High Range is almost a waste of time. I do notice that it blows a bit of black soot when starting off in second too, but it is just soooo much quicker off the mark than starting in first.
On another note, although the engine torque is awesome in low range 1st, after doing the Maytown Track (old Coach Road from Maytown to Laura), I really would have appreciated a 43% reduction gear, or even better, that 63% reduction that has been mentioned of late. 85% would be too much for the type of 4WDriving that I do, but the ability to crawl a bit slower up some of those rocks would have saved my tyres a bit more I think.
Hiya BenK,
Stolen from the yank forums...
The 4L80 was designed for vehicles up to 8000 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 440 ft. lbs. of torque.
The 4L85 was designed for vehicles up to 16,500 lbs. GVWR and with engines up to 460 ft. lbs. of torque and towing capacity was up-rated to 22,000 LBS.
Ratios etc are all identical. The 85 is just a beefier torque converter, pinion gears etc
My brother couldn't find his thermometer but he took both thermos out and they were shut.
They are set to open at 82 and boiled them up and they both opened around 30 seconds before the water boiled, one only opened half way but I'll try them at my house tonight.
So we can rule out they are stuck open anyway.
He is buying 2 more today anyway.
On another note, It's a full custom alum radiator. The cap pressure read 13 and apparently the chevs should be at 16 so we are thinking of maybe getting a 15 cap to check out as we do not want to blow the radiator possibly???
Small steps first with checking the easy possible problems so fingers crossed.
Yeah if they aren't opening enough and restriciting flow when its needed it will cause temp issues.
Shouldn't blow the rad mate. Other things should rear there head first (hoses etc).
What sort of temp drop does he get across the radiator?
I just had a brand new 4L80E auto put in. As a result, Brunswick changed my diff ratios back to 4.11:1, which is why I thought that going back to 33in tires would decrease engine revs further... Is that not the case?Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
@AB, My mate, who services my truck is a heavy diesel fitter and when he changed the coolant in my radiator, replaced it with the stuff they use in their truck fleet. It is all coolant, not 50/50 and since using it, the needle has never gone past half way in the gauge. If you get the Castrol diesel 100% coolant, he said that that one works well.
These are the things to check:
- Check your thermostats, even tho they appear to work. One may be working but the other isn't or they may have a small blockage, like a bug or some such thing.
-Check the radiator for obstructions, holes, cleanliness. Is the front covered in bugs etc
-Check radiator fan, Viscous Hub seals for oil leaks. Fan should come on when engine is hot and should blow air fairly strongly... If fan isn't blowing strong air, chances are, its kaput.
Hope this helps mate.
Well good news...
Replaced both thermostats and cap and its running like a dream.
Not sure which one was the issue or even possibly a bit of both but the pale look on his face is now recovering...lol
Thanks for your help gents!!
Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app
Another thing for people considering a Chev conversion to check out first is insurance. AAMI didn't want to know me any longer, despite having a rating 1, being over 40 without any accidents, having done several driver training and 4wd courses etc. they dropped me like a hot rock. RACQ also wanted nothing to do with it.
I could only find two insurance companies who would take it on and I went with Shannon's as they were half the price of the other mob. Shannon's also recognized Brunswick Diesel which lowered the premium somewhat I think. I think my premium is around $650 or so for fully comprehensive, which reminds me, I think I need to tell them about a few extras now too. The second mob (I have forgotten now) wanted $1500/year!!!
Sent from my iPad using Motorculture mobile app