Your Vote... Buying tomorrow - 3.0L Di or 3.0L CRD ??

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8th January 2011, 01:14 PM
the evil twin

Quote:

Originally Posted by MozzieWA

Hi All
I gave it a full check-up today. No big concerns... except, wheel alignment (tracking to the left) and a slight juddering of the steering wheel at 90-110kph. (I'm putting that down to wheel balance... tell me if you think I'm wrong).

There was a small puff of greyish/white smoke (not black) just at start-up (like 3 secs). Then nothing at revs. Not thinking head gasket, as oil looks fine on stick & nothing showing in filler cap. :confused:

Wheel wobble and pulling left is a Patrol trait... sometimes just a tyre rotation will fix the wobble it but can be many things. Pulling left either get used to it or spend bigger dollars on offset swivel hub bearings

Get an 'inspection opinion' on that smoke tho, cobber...
puff of black on start up = no problems just a bit of extra diesel
puff of white is not so good... thats oil getting into there somehow
8th January 2011, 05:10 PM
MudRunnerTD

Quote:

Originally Posted by the evil twin

How do you figure that ? It has over 100,000 K's on the clock.

I'd almost bet it is past 3 years old as well but doesn't matter the new car warranty will be expired because of the K's

Yep....Must have Figured that wrong :1087: should have written "You MIGHT STILL have some new car warranty" would have been better advice but your right mate, 100,000ks would have been the warranty i would have thought. :1062:
8th January 2011, 05:21 PM
MudRunnerTD

Quote:

Originally Posted by MozzieWA

No big concerns... except, wheel alignment (tracking to the left) and a slight juddering of the steering wheel at 90-110kph. (I'm putting that down to wheel balance... tell me if you think I'm wrong).

This is a really common fault on the GUs mate, I would be really pushing the point with the dealer though (play dumb a little though until it is yours) and get them to sort it out while you still have statutory Warranty. Get them to acknowledge the problem and then push them hard for a fix.

A re balance is unlikely to fix it, a rotation might alter it. I had my swivel hubs rebuilt chasing this under statutory warranty with no joy, I got new tyres fitted at their expense too and it kind of went away ( i could just feel it but nothing like it had been) This lasted just long enough to exit the warranty then the front left tyre scrubbed out and it all went to crap. Don't give up on the chase unless it is perfect mate cause once you do the problem becomes yours.

I ended up fitting an offset king pin bearing race to the left side with a perfect result. There are a couple of threads around on this fix but here is a link to what i used.

http://safetsteer.com.au/portal/content/view/192/338/

It cost me less than $400 fitted and changed the Patrol forever. Highly recommend.

As Evil Twin said, get you smoke evaluated before any decisions are made though and good luck.

Cheers MR
8th January 2011, 07:47 PM
the evil twin

Quote:

Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Yep....Must have Figured that wrong :1087: should have written "You MIGHT STILL have some new car warranty" would have been better advice but your right mate, 100,000ks would have been the warranty i would have thought. :1062:

No wuckers... Hey, i see by your next post that you are someone who put in offset swivel hub bearings.

Did you do it yourself ? ...and... How noticeable is it (if at all) on the traks etc where there is no camber? :clapping:

PS sorry for the 'jack but it is sorta still on subject :hijacked:
9th January 2011, 12:55 PM
Skegbudley

Quote:

Originally Posted by MozzieWA

Hi All
Thanks for the overwhelming vote for the CRD.

I gave it a full check-up today. No big concerns... except, wheel alignment (tracking to the left) and a slight juddering of the steering wheel at 90-110kph. (I'm putting that down to wheel balance... tell me if you think I'm wrong).

There was a small puff of greyish/white smoke (not black) just at start-up (like 3 secs). Then nothing at revs. Not thinking head gasket, as oil looks fine on stick & nothing showing in filler cap. :confused:

Once they sort the wheels....(& I get a smooth ride), I plan to part with some cash $$... & join the Trol Club!

Thanks again 4 your help.

If it blows any smoke at all then do not buy it.
The Di & the CRD should never blow any smoke at all.
9th January 2011, 01:52 PM
Bigrig

Quote:

Originally Posted by MozzieWA

Hi All
Thanks for the overwhelming vote for the CRD.

I gave it a full check-up today. No big concerns... except, wheel alignment (tracking to the left) and a slight juddering of the steering wheel at 90-110kph. (I'm putting that down to wheel balance... tell me if you think I'm wrong).

There was a small puff of greyish/white smoke (not black) just at start-up (like 3 secs). Then nothing at revs. Not thinking head gasket, as oil looks fine on stick & nothing showing in filler cap. :confused:

Once they sort the wheels....(& I get a smooth ride), I plan to part with some cash $$... & join the Trol Club!

Thanks again 4 your help.

Top stuff mate!!! You'll never look back ..
18th January 2011, 08:56 PM
raneydelrey

HI whats the difference between the zd30 crdi and the zd30 mecha type?
19th January 2011, 05:55 AM
Maxhead

Quote:

Originally Posted by raneydelrey

HI whats the difference between the zd30 crdi and the zd30 mecha type?

from another thread...thanks to ET

Quote:

Originally Posted by the evil twin

CRD is "common rail" IE the fuel is delivered in a common rail connecting all 4 injectors and teh injectors are fully electronically controlled. It is still a direct injection tho IE fuel mist directly into the chamber. The posts in question are referring to the MY07 and later ZD30 CRD engines

Non CRD has a seperate fuel feed to each injector and the pump pressure controls the injection

Typically CRD's operate at significantly higher fuel pressures giving better atomisation and burn patterns etc etc. Their injectors also cost a small fortune or your first born

As a point of interest most of the "cheap chips" and some of the expensive ones (rip offs) are simply variable resistors that up the fuel pressures so you get more bang. The expensive legitimate chips will use multiple inputs to remap the injection signals from the ECU
29th January 2011, 11:52 PM
wogboy

HI Mozzie
How much are your paying for yours as I paid 28K for 2008 dx with 70 000 kms
29th January 2011, 11:56 PM
Sir Roofy

Quote:

Originally Posted by wogboy

hi mozzie
how much are your paying for yours as i paid 28k for 2008 dx with 70 000 kms

ouch bet that hurt the account a bit

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